Questions About the United States Navy Peacoat

Peacoat · Mar 8, 2011

Yes, a 38 would be the better choice. Also, you can go up to 1979 and still get the Kersey wool, which is what you want. As Jan says, it is thick and soft, which translates into warm. There were some vintage contracts that specified Melton, which is not as soft or thick, but is still a nice wool. Melton was used after 1979. But I believe those vintage coats have tags that are marked as "Melton." In about 1973 Pembroke made both Kersey and Melton, and there may be other years as well. It gets confusing and one has to know what to look for.

Currently there are peacoats listed on Vintage Trends that are marked as Melton, but I think they are actually Kersey as the tags show them to be in the early 50s, as well as late 50s to early 60s. They may be using the terms "Melton" and "Kersey" interchangeably. Gary is the owner, I think. He can handle the coat and tell immediately what it is constructed of. Also, if you buy from them, I would ask Gary to carefully exam the coat for any moth damage. Sometimes it is not evident on a cursory examination.

CC-1 · Mar 9, 2011

Mataglap,
I can't speak for Vintage Trends but don't forsake ebay completely because they have some very promising size 38 coats at the present, Kerseys from the 60's. One is an unstencilled '67 jacket from Colorado with a crisp-looking clothing tag. (Shows less cleaning, hence less wear) Sorry about the hints but I can't PM you yet. Do not consider a coat in 38S (short) or 38L (long). Your measurements and weight call for a Regular 38.

brotato · Mar 9, 2011

It's an awful habit to have tabs open to ebay and looking at all of those purdy coats I can't afford.

CC-1 · Mar 10, 2011

I don't get it... the ebay stuff I'm looking at is under $100 and some real good stuff potentially under $50.
Looking at Vintage Trends, the good ones are $85 and up.

Mataglap · Mar 10, 2011

Thank you all for your informative answers.
I was hoping that I could wear a size 38 but thought it better to err on the side of caution, so it is nice to know that I dont have to worry about it.
One benefit seems to be that the smaller sizes are not as much in demand or are offered more often since more of them have probably been issued back in the day.

Since the winter is finally losing its grip around here I'm not in a hurry to buy one. It will probably become a personal birthday gift to myself for my birthday in april. Once I have it I promise to post my impressions.

About the ebay/shop difference: I think that comes down to personal preference. Sometimes its worth it to pay a premium if you get to deal with a known entity, who knows what he is selling, knows how to mail it, who has sucessfully dealed with acquaintances before and has a wide selection of stuff available now.
On the other hand there is always the thrill of the hunt on ebay.

Before I leave let me compliment you all on the forum you have here. Places like these are what make the internet great. Ten or fifteen years ago I would've had no way to find answers to my questions. But now there are websites were enthusiats from all over the world can pool their expertise and share it with the world.
I just fear my wallet won't allow me to stay here for very long. Thankfully it looks like I'm immune to the leather jacket virus but then I made the mistake to open the vintage anorak thread and I know someone for whom a duffle coat would be a perfect gift and I haven't even left this sub forum!

norton · Mar 11, 2011

I just bought a pea coat from an army surplus store after reading this thread. I was there in January and they had a ton of them at $150. I figured I'd come back in a couple months and they might be marked down. When I went back there were only 5 left, and two of the five were women's. And they were still $150.

I usually take a 42Lbut sometimes will go up to a 44. There was a 40 that was way too tight and a 46L. I almost didn't even try on the 46L but when I did the fit wasn't too bad, a little loose but there was room for a sweater under. If anything, the worse part of the fit was that the sleeves were about an inch too long. Anyway, I've been wearing it and have been very happy with it. Its much thicker and better made then anything you'd find in a department store and I like the slightly large fit. It fits more like a care coat and less like a uniform item for a young man, if you know what I mean.

NaDan · May 7, 2011

Hi Peacoat,
I just got my first vintage pea coat from vintagetrends.com,Thank you for your advice(I have PM to you). size 42 is perfect, I try to wear pea coat with a sweater. It does not loose not tight.

Thanks again.

NaDan · May 7, 2011

How to clean your vintage pea coat?

Hi all,

Today I'm glad received my first vintage pea coat.However, since this is my first vintage coat, I don't know how to clean it.How would you clean your coat?

Thank you.

NaDan · May 7, 2011

If sent to the laundry dry cleaning, What is the need for instructions?

Philalethes · May 7, 2011

Does it have any stains, smells, etc.?

If it is not very dirty, I would just brush it off, spot clean any dirt marks, and leave it outside in the sun for a day or so.

Seb Lucas · May 8, 2011

Exactly Philalethes.

Dry cleaning is fine but go to a reliable company that truly undertands the needs and qualities of different fabrics. Often the dry cleaners at an exclusive hotel are the go.

Jeff M · May 8, 2011

When I got my vintage peacoats, I took them in to be drycleaned.
Cleans them.
Gets rid of moth eggs.
Gets rid of odors.
Depending on how often you wear it, take it in every year or so.

CC-1 · May 8, 2011

I agree with the advice to have your coat dry cleaned right away. In every case my coat came back in better condition than when it went in.
One suggestion: explain to the shop that the coat is a vintage piece and could they give it extra care handling. My generous store offered to clean it all by itself instead of stuffing it in a big load- no charge!
Also be aware that tag will degrade somewhat after each cleaning. If the content and condition of the label is important to preserve, you might want to remove and save it. One 1960's coat I have suffered because the cleaning fluid disolved a good amount of the ink on its first cleaning (it was a dead stock item)... too bad.

NaDan · May 8, 2011

Thanks for all suggestions.them are very useful.:eusa_clap

Careful examination of my coat,as a whole the coat is clean, no marks, holes,except for a few stains in the collars, may be signs of wear. and little odor.

I intend first re-fixed button, leave it outside in the sun for a day, and then look for a reliable laundry dry cleaning.

Peacoat · May 10, 2011

Good deal. I'm glad you like it and that you got a good fit.

Grayland · May 10, 2011

I finally took possession of a 1961 peacoat that I won on eBay. Yeah, I had a few issues with the seller, but the coat finally arrived. Excellent condition - not mint as claimed, but as good as can be expected for a 50 year old coat. 2 moth holes in the collar - no big deal. I really like the corduroy pocket lining. I'm surprised how heavy the coat is! The wool is very dense. I sent it out to have it drycleaned and will report measurements to Peacoat as soon as it comes back.

Spoonbelly · May 10, 2011

NaDan said:
Thanks for all suggestions.them are very useful.:eusa_clap

Careful examination of my coat,as a whole the coat is clean, no marks, holes,except for a few stains in the collars, may be signs of wear. and little odor.

I intend first re-fixed button, leave it outside in the sun for a day, and then look for a reliable laundry dry cleaning.

It's best to brush the coat with a coat or clothes brush so that you can get most of the lint, dust, and fibers off before it goes to the cleaners. I have sent pea coats to the cleaners which weren't very linty or dusty, only to find most of that stuff still on the coat when I got it home. I also have this thing about vacuumning out all of the pockets in order to get the lint, dust and stuff out of them.

NaDan · May 10, 2011

Spoonbelly said:
It's best to brush the coat with a coat or clothes brush so that you can get most of the lint, dust, and fibers off before it goes to the cleaners. I have sent pea coats to the cleaners which weren't very linty or dusty, only to find most of that stuff still on the coat when I got it home. I also have this thing about vacuumning out all of the pockets in order to get the lint, dust and stuff out of them.

Thanks for your well-meaning reminder.:eusa_clap
I know a roller brush can be quickly remove the pilling. however, it seems I need a bristle brush....

NaDan · May 10, 2011

Grayland said:
I finally took possession of a 1961 peacoat that I won on eBay. Yeah, I had a few issues with the seller, but the coat finally arrived. Excellent condition - not mint as claimed, but as good as can be expected for a 50 year old coat. 2 moth holes in the collar - no big deal. I really like the corduroy pocket lining. I'm surprised how heavy the coat is! The wool is very dense. I sent it out to have it drycleaned and will report measurements to Peacoat as soon as it comes back.

Congratulations you got a pea coat. Corduroy pocket lining is awesome.

NaDan · May 10, 2011

Peacoat said:
Good deal. I'm glad you like it and that you got a good fit.

Thank you.

Unfortunately, now it's summer, and I was preparing to clear the coat. this winter I'll post my coat pictur.

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