The fit of a 50's suit jacket?

• Mar 22, 2011

• #1

justanuthercap

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Central Florida

Hey all, I've been through a lot of threads looking for an answer for this one, but no luck. I've picked up a few 50's suits and sportscoats or orphaned suit jackets. Mostly all some type of atomic fleck material.
Are these type of 50's suits supposed to be more sack like in fit? Particularly in the waist area. I'm only 5'-7" and wear a 42R to fit my shoulders, but all of these seem to be not tapered in the slightest in the waist.
The follow up to this would be, when I take them to the tailor for sleeve adjustments, SHOULD I see about adding some taper to the waist?

Thanks for the help.

-Scott

 

• Mar 22, 2011

• #2

resortes805

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SoCal

That sounds about right. Earlier 50's suits had a broad chest with a slight taper, which started to fade out over time. They were still fitted, but just without the severe waist suppression that you saw in the 1930s into the 1940s. Here's the gold lame suit Nudie designed for Elvis.

 

• Mar 22, 2011

• #3

kools

Practically Family

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Milwaukee

Resortes has it right!

 

• Mar 22, 2011

• #4

justanuthercap

New in Town

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31

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Central Florida

Thank you Resortes and kools, much appreciated.

 

• Mar 22, 2011

• #5

Edward

Bartender

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London, UK

As with anything else, jacket waists have gone in and out over time. Into the Fifties they got quite boxy, before the very late fifties (if memory serves) saw shapes begin to segue into that Mad Men, slim fit look. My advice would be to leave well alone... if you really want something nipped in at the waist, but it like that and leave those wider at the waist jackets for those of us who don't have the good fortune or genetics to be able to wear something with serious waist suppression!

 

• Mar 23, 2011

• #6

justanuthercap

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Central Florida

No worries about that Edward... I wouldn't ruin the jackets to make them something they weren't supposed to be. I was only considering bringing in the waists if they had originally been altered to fit a larger person.

 

• Mar 24, 2011

• #7

avedwards

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I have three 50s suits (two British SB, one American DB). The British suits have some waist suppression but the American one has virtually none. The waist suppression is done subtly so as to improve the fit of the suit without making it tight-fitting.

Personally I would advise taking the waist in for a better fit but make sure your tailor does not cut off any excess fabric so that the suit won't be ruined in case you ever pass in on to someone larger. Also make sure your tailor only takes in the waist and not the skirt, because I had one do this once and it ruined the drape of the suit (I then had to take it to a proper tailor to have the skirt taken out again).