Gentlemen, show us what you've made!

herringbonekid · Apr 18, 2012

Mario said:
Did you have any existing patterns for jackets with shoulder gussets/bi-swing back? I think it's a rather elaborate construction.

yes, i did make a bi-swing pattern (for the previous jacket) based on the one on this jacket:

however, it's simpler than you might think as it still follows the basic silhouette of a plain back, just adds a sort of accordion-like 'hinge'.
there's an even simpler way of doing it with just one piece if you want, which is what this Palm Beach jacket has:

Mario · Apr 18, 2012

Did you take any photos of your jacket while you were working on it? I never had the chance yet to take a close look at the inner workings of a bi-swing back. The only one I have is fully lined and I certainly wouldn't want to take out the lining just to look at the construction. :eeek:

herringbonekid · Apr 18, 2012

Mario said:
Did you take any photos of your jacket while you were working on it? I never had the chance yet to take a close look at the inner workings of a bi-swing back.

no i didn't, but that jacket is unlined so i can take a photo of the workings.

Mario · Apr 18, 2012

Fantastic idea!

herringbonekid · Apr 18, 2012

Nick and Qirrel, do you think it's time to start a separate thread for tailoring techniques / construction where we could talk about the finer details rather than going into it on this one ?
...as it may get way off track from 'what we've made'. you could put a photo up of any garment and detail (not just your own) to discuss the way it was made.

Qirrel · Apr 18, 2012

^ I agree.

Here is the workings of a shoulder pleated coat, Mario. Look at drawing to the right in the diagram. When the cloth is folded along the dotted line, the pleat is formed, and the jacket can be sewn up as usual.

Nick D · Apr 18, 2012

Yes, I agree also. It would help to be able to discuss some of these details in preparation for future projects, too.

herringbonekid · Apr 18, 2012

ok. i'll start if off now !

done:

http://www.thefedoralounge.com/showthread.php?63545-The-Vintage-Tailoring-Thread

Mario · Apr 18, 2012

herringbonekid said:
Nick and Qirrel, do you think it's time to start a separate thread for tailoring techniques / construction where we could talk about the finer details rather than going into it on this one ?
...as it may get way off track from 'what we've made'. you could put a photo up of any garment and detail (not just your own) to discuss the way it was made.

That's a wondeful idea!

Swing Motorman · Apr 18, 2012

Toronto Transit Commission repro uniform

I did it again, and put together a "close enough for volunteer work" public transit uniform. This time, I went for modern-day Toronto, Canada. They've got a flashy cap badge, and my, they do love their little red accents.

The whole thing, as best I could research it:

The stars of the show: a new name badge, and a new band and cap badge:

How it works: Those holes in the name plate are to allow me to pin other job names overtop of the standard "operator" text. Also, I've done a bunch of cap badges with this standard paperclip-tab-soldered-to-safety-pin attachment. With the clip tab through a grommet on the cap, it all stays in place very well.

Now I just need to get to one of the many museums that own retired TTC streetcars! And finish my next project: Connestoga Traction Co, of Lancaster County, PA.

-Steven

herringbonekid · Apr 19, 2012

Mario said:
HBK - I'm dying to see a photo of you wearing that suit... *hint*

Mario, i seem to be completely incapable of taking decent self-timed photos recently. i blame the camera.
i resorted to the mirror for this one. it's so bad it's almost good:

can hardly see the suit, but it'll have to do for now.

Flat Foot Floey · Apr 19, 2012

herringbonekid said:
it's so bad it's almost good:

Haha yes. Just tell you were goin for a mysterious film noir mood in the picture. Suit looks great on you. One question though: Is the jacket very very short? It look like it covers only half of your back.

herringbonekid · Apr 19, 2012

Flat Foot Floey said:
One question though: Is the jacket very very short? It look like it covers only half of your back.

all my jackets are on the short side, but not really short. base of collar to hem on that one is 30". (that isn't the crotch of the trousers you can see... my legs aren't that short).

this 30s jacket....

http://www.thefedoralounge.com/show...-1930s-Suits&p=1420271&viewfull=1#post1420271

....is actually an inch shorter than the Conrad, but looks longer in the photo. as they say in the U.S; go figure.

Flat Foot Floey · Apr 19, 2012

yes. I thought it was the angle. my shorter jackets are even 29 inch and I am quite tall. I always wonder if they are tooo short. (yes, we had threads about it somewhere)

Mario · Apr 19, 2012

herringbonekid said:
Mario, i seem to be completely incapable of taking decent self-timed photos recently. i blame the camera.
i resorted to the mirror for this one. it's so bad it's almost good:

can hardly see the suit, but it'll have to do for now.

Never mind. I'm pretty good at taking bad photos of myself. Of course I also blame the camera.

I really like how the suit looks on you. The jacket is on the short side but that's actually how I like them and this one surely doesn't look too short.
Well, great job on that suit. I'd be green with envy if that wasn't to exhausting at the moment. Maybe later...

Fly Boy · Apr 19, 2012

herringbonekid said:
thanks.

no, definitely not a tailor as i only make stuff for myself; if someone of a different size and shape asked me to make something it would be quite a struggle.
my girlfriend is a professional tailor and has helped me a lot but i do everything on my own garments... apart from the buttonholes which she does.
i still haven't mastered the hand done buttonhole.

Such a shame - Which patterns did you use?

Hepville · Apr 20, 2012

My first short sleeved shirt for this season:
Cotton fabric, mother of pearl buttons, felled seams, slitted sides and a two piece back yoke.

Mario · Apr 20, 2012

Coming along nicely! :eusa_clap

Shangas · Apr 22, 2012

Using this...

...I made this...

...using leftover fabric from this...

Gin&Tonics · Apr 22, 2012

Very nice, shangas! I do like that fabric.

I'm a bit scarce currently because I'm in a faraway land on a semi secret mission, but I will fill in when I return. Cheers!

Gentlemen, show us what you've made!

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