LVC Menlo Cossack washed goatskin (XL, 2008)

Dr H · Apr 3, 2013

Here are some images of the goatskin version of the LVC Menlo Cossack (from the 2008 season) that I bought recently following the sale of my steerhide version. The latter (now in France) was just a bit on the heavy side for me (although it is a supple hide).

This is the washed russet goat, which is a superb hide and looks really vintage. The jacket is unlined, with red Bakelite buttons which complete the 1930s look. The stitching looks great (particularly the French seams to the back panel) and the button holes are really well finished.

Bit on the cold side for this one today (the other images were taken wearing a B-15), but it'll be ideal for summer weather. LVC sizing is all over the place - this is marked XL, but is very trim and smaller than the steerhide that was marked as a 'Large' - I'm wearing a layer or two underneath today and it's snug. Ideally, it just needs a shirt/T shirt or thin sweater.

The waist straps are currently folded as they're a bit on the long side, but I'm going to trim them up later.

Dr H · Apr 3, 2013

Here it is alongside a couple of other 1920s/1930s styled buttoned jackets .

bretron · Apr 4, 2013

Ian, this jacket is stunning. Really! I love the fact that it was made unlined. True mark to period detail. Also i really like the bell curve of the pockets... And that hide? All I can say else is congrats and wear in good health!

If you dont mind my prodding, where on earth did you find this?? I don't recall ever seening this version of the Menlo Cossack?

Thx for sharing the photos
-Bret

Boyo · Apr 4, 2013

Doc, that's quite a quiver of jackets! I agree with Bretron, I think the Menlo is the best of the bunch..I love your A-1, but the Menlo really shines! Great find, include me on the list of jealous people.

Dr H · Apr 4, 2013

bretron said:
Ian, this jacket is stunning. Really! I love the fact that it was made unlined. True mark to period detail. Also i really like the bell curve of the pockets... And that hide? All I can say else is congrats and wear in good health!

If you dont mind my prodding, where on earth did you find this?? I don't recall ever seening this version of the Menlo Cossack?

Thx for sharing the photos
-Bret

Thanks Bret
This one is from the 2008 season (although it's been released in pale tan sheepskin, which I also like, and most recently brown steer, which I sold about a week ago).
John Lever has an identical one - I was really taken with the goat of his jacket and determined to track one down. This one came from a VLJF member.
This one is a keeper for me.

Dr H · Apr 4, 2013

Boyo said:
Doc, that's quite a quiver of jackets! I agree with Bretron, I think the Menlo is the best of the bunch..I love your A-1, but the Menlo really shines! Great find, include me on the list of jealous people.

Thanks Boyo, I've bought/sold a lot recently to get to a stable collection of regular, daily jackets. I had some beautiful jackets (e.g. my Links Irvin, G&F M-422A, or near mint Doniger/McGregor A-2) that I simply wasn't using enough.
Now, these span the seasons and with an ELC B-15 for the cold/GW goat Perry for warmer weather to work, I'm sorted for a while.
This Menlo is great for casual use in warmer weather and is a peach.

Charlie · Apr 4, 2013

looks outstanding !

MudInYerEye · Apr 4, 2013

The initial LVC run of these jackets (2005ish), the tan models, were not sheepskin. They were made from a super-lightweight but incredibly dense, grainy, tough leather. At first I thought the hide was goatskin, but after a few minutes of scouring it, I'm pretty sure it's buffalo. The jackets also came with different buckles, deco-shaped etched horn buttons, and a one-piece back as opposed to the split back on later models. Still have mine. Great jacket.

Dr H · Apr 4, 2013

Ah buffalo...didn't see that one coming.

schitzo · Apr 5, 2013

Dr, I too dig the cut of your jib.

Alas jackets like these seem few and far between, for the moment at least

schitzo · Apr 5, 2013

Dr, how is it without a lining? Any pros or cons that you can mention

Dr H · Apr 5, 2013

Well, I haven't worn it in hot weather yet (very chilly at the moment), so can't comment on how it'll wear when it's sticky.
This one is not the warmest in cold weather (and is a bit trim to layer), but I couldn't resist wearing it. It'll come into it's own over a T shirt.
A bit slower to put on/take off (sleeves a bit more grabby as they say), but as I'm not a burlesque artist it's not a big issue.
Great casual feel to it though - this goat has great drape.

Seb Lucas · Apr 6, 2013

Not sure I like that very deliberate wrinkled "washed" look or the bloody great seam at the back. But it is an interesting pattern and I do like a goat jacket

djgo-cat-go · Apr 6, 2013

Seb Lucas said:
Not sure I like that very deliberate wrinkled "washed" look or the bloody great seam at the back. But it is an interesting pattern and I do like a goat jacket

+1
I like to wear my denim/leather/whatever to shreds to give it that 'distressed' look, not buy it 'time-worn'.. but to each his own. It looks really good on you though..

Dr H · Apr 6, 2013

Aged hides split opinion it's true (this is a world away from '80's distressing). I don't have a problem with ageing if it's done well - and this look is very natural in the flesh. OTOH FQHH leaves me cold...
The seam works for me, true to the pattern, but if one-piece backs are your thing it's a nonstarter.

Sloan1874 · Apr 6, 2013

The distressing of the 80s was, as you say, distressing. I remember there was a guy at school who came in one day wearing a shapeless leather jacket that even a bunch of teenagers found ridiculous. Whoever'd made it had decided that 'aged' meant 'dye pinky beige and then marble with grey and brown'. It was immediately dubbed 'the pig skin' by the guy's mates - aren't teenagers lovely? - and he suffered four months of ribbing about it and then stopped wearing it for good...

schitzo · Apr 6, 2013

Sloan1874 said:
he suffered four months of ribbing about it and then stopped wearing it for good...

was it yours per chance? This info sounds very authoritative

Sloan1874 · Apr 6, 2013

Ha! was not allowed such luxuries! It was uni before I got my hands on a leather jacket - a much loved, but decrepit, blue West German Army thing that was on its last, last legs. Ah, happy days...

majormajor · Apr 6, 2013

Sloan1874 said:
Ha! was not allowed such luxuries! It was uni before I got my hands on a leather jacket - a much loved, but decrepit, blue West German Army thing that was on its last, last legs. Ah, happy days...

I saved up for ages for my first hide jacket - a Levi's Type 3 split cowhide. Got it in 1967. Couple of years later, I swapped it for a selfedge Wrangler denim.... How stupid was that?

Ten years later, I gave the Wrangler to a girlfriend. The guy who got the Levi Cowhide still has it.......:eusa_doh::eusa_doh:

2jakes · Apr 6, 2013

Dr. H that is a really nice jacket in that shade.
Do you know how to find out what leather was used for this one ?

The seller didn't know what leather it was.
I bought it last year from UK. It includes a lining.
The color of the leather is tan & very light soft.
The leather is only slightly distressed. The lining
is not as bright as the photo indicates. The only label
inside says made in Italy by Levis.
Thanks for any information.

LVC Menlo Cossack washed goatskin (XL, 2008)

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