David Conwill
Call Me a Cab
- Messages
- 2,854
- Location
- Bennington, VT 05201
Both vehicles I'd be happy to own! As a fellow Falconeer, I'm very curious to know some details on the ragtop - 170 and a Dagenham, perhaps?
-
The Fedora Lounge is supported in part by commission earning affiliate links sitewide. Please support us by using them. You may learn more here.
Vintage Car Thread - Discussion and Parts Requests
- Thread starter FedoraGent
- Start date
SamReu
One of the Regulars
- Messages
- 192
- Location
- Red Clay USA
You are correct about the engine, a simple little 170. It's not powerful but is sufficient. Re: the transmission: A mere 3 on the column. It would move better with four gears and a different rear end. A 260 under the hood would be nice, too. But I got this car after noticing my wife's reaction when she saw a friend ride by in a ragtop Falcon. Right then, I decided to ditch the Model A. I have not regretted it. The Falcon is a joyous car.
You have one? 1963 or earlier, I hope? I am partial to that body style.
And the truck? That thing is a beast, and a different kind of joy.
You have one? 1963 or earlier, I hope? I am partial to that body style.
And the truck? That thing is a beast, and a different kind of joy.
David Conwill
Call Me a Cab
- Messages
- 2,854
- Location
- Bennington, VT 05201
I have a '61 with a 170 and a 3-speed and a '62 currently being fitted with a 250 from a Maverick and a 3-speed OD from a '57 Ford.
Gregg Axley
I'll Lock Up
- Messages
- 5,125
- Location
- Tennessee
You enabled her, just as bad.
- Messages
- 54,308
it came with the marriage but the car didn't last long. I gave it away.You enabled her, just as bad.
- Messages
- 10,883
- Location
- Portage, Wis.
Went and looked at a Galaxie project today. The guy says that one guy ahead of me has first shot at it. Here's hoping he turns it down.
- Messages
- 10,883
- Location
- Portage, Wis.
- Messages
- 54,308
What is a "project?" How bad is it and how cheap?
- Messages
- 54,308
:rofl: Good one!
LizzieMaine
Bartender
- Messages
- 33,055
- Location
- Where The Tourists Meet The Sea
Turns out my brake problem was exactly what Bro. Doble predicted it would be -- adjustment of the master cylinder piston rod cleared up the problem with dragging and pressure build-up. It appears that adjustment is absolutely critical -- even a millimeter off will cause problems. Anyone else out there with a 1938-41 Mopar would be well advised to keep this in mind and avoid fiddling with that particular nut.
I'll be getting the wheel cylinder rebuilt on the front right side after all this, but am otherwise functional. I'm advised, though, that I ought to replace the warped brake drum rather than try to have it turned -- and due to Mr. Chrysler's engineers working in some nifty ideas about side-specific lug bolt threading in the prewar models, the drum I need is not particularly common -- the usual suspects, Kanter, Bernbaum et al have offered no help. (Kanter says "we never had that one," even though I bought the one that's on there now from them less than a year ago. Nice customer service, boys.)
So, anyone out there who has a line on a decent, unwarped right front brake drum for a '41 Plymouth P-11/Dodge D-20, please let me know via PM.
I'll be getting the wheel cylinder rebuilt on the front right side after all this, but am otherwise functional. I'm advised, though, that I ought to replace the warped brake drum rather than try to have it turned -- and due to Mr. Chrysler's engineers working in some nifty ideas about side-specific lug bolt threading in the prewar models, the drum I need is not particularly common -- the usual suspects, Kanter, Bernbaum et al have offered no help. (Kanter says "we never had that one," even though I bought the one that's on there now from them less than a year ago. Nice customer service, boys.)
So, anyone out there who has a line on a decent, unwarped right front brake drum for a '41 Plymouth P-11/Dodge D-20, please let me know via PM.
Talbot
One Too Many
- Messages
- 1,855
- Location
- Melbourne Australia
Lizzie,
Are these guys in your list of usual suspects?
http://www.owenssalvage.com/
I have not used them myself, but know some locals here who have had a good experience with them.
Are these guys in your list of usual suspects?
http://www.owenssalvage.com/
I have not used them myself, but know some locals here who have had a good experience with them.
Bruce Wayne
My Mail is Forwarded Here
- Messages
- 3,394
Can you maybe just swap the studs?
- Messages
- 54,308
On the phone with my guys at Moose Motors checking on it right now......
- Messages
- 54,308
PM sent.
- Messages
- 11,579
- Location
- Covina, Califonia 91722
Hi Lizzie as some one that worked in auto parts for a long time and worked with my friends at Egge Machine, I can simply say, when you have a car like this -always save your receipts / invoices. Kanters old invoice will have a part number on it and you can give them that info. It may list a brand or manufacturer. KEEP ALL PARTS RECEIPTS! If you have an invoice number on a credit card statement you might be able to have them look up the info in their computer.
BigFitz
Practically Family
- Messages
- 630
- Location
- Warren (pronounced 'worn') Ohio
Good of you James! :eusa_clap That put a smile on my face!
- Messages
- 54,308
Stanley Doble
Call Me a Cab
- Messages
- 2,808
- Location
- Cobourg
It is possible to swap the hubs side-for-side if you have to. I have seen this on old cars that were repaired with junkyard parts and had left hand threads on the right side and vice versa.
It is also possible to remove the drum and install a new drum on the original hub. But this requires cutting off rivets and rivetting a new drum on. Commonplace in the forties, not part of the garage man's repertoire today.
Are you sure the drum can't be turned? Pre 1960 drums are much thicker than modern ones. They were made to last the life of the car and can be turned a lot more than you might think.
I can't find the max diameter for your car in the service books I have handy. It may be marked on the drum itself.
It should take a cut of .080 probably more.
It is also possible to remove the drum and install a new drum on the original hub. But this requires cutting off rivets and rivetting a new drum on. Commonplace in the forties, not part of the garage man's repertoire today.
Are you sure the drum can't be turned? Pre 1960 drums are much thicker than modern ones. They were made to last the life of the car and can be turned a lot more than you might think.
I can't find the max diameter for your car in the service books I have handy. It may be marked on the drum itself.
It should take a cut of .080 probably more.
Similar threads
