The Middy Thread

Hello, ladies!
I just got a middy, pretty much by the diagram. Unfortunately it's more difficult for me than before to curl my hair in either pin curls or sponge rollers because the layers splay out every which way as I try to roll. CURSED LAYERS! Am I doing something wrong? Did my stylist cut weirdly? Thus far the middy has bested me.

I have been searching for like 3 months on instructions for a middy that actually work on cutting your own hair, I have just used the instructions by C-Dot and how my goodness they work like a dream, I have longer length and I haven't been to hairdressers in over 20 years and since being brave enough to embrace my vintage I have had trouble getting the cut right. This way even showed up where I went wrong last time from video instructions, the diagrams just don't work for me, especially when your cutting your own hair. Thank you so much C-Dot and all the other ladies. x

virgi said:

I think the layer job really is for people who have normal to thick hair. I know I had to let the layers grow because it looked too skimpy in the back. Does your hair hold a curl? If it doesn't you may want to wet your hair before styling, and sleep in curlers. Also, you may want to get clip in extensions (you can make these yourself) to add some thickness to your hair. I used them for several years, but now that my hair is on the reddish side, it is very difficult to find a color to match.

I have had great success in imitating the pincurl look by using these curlers (I use them for the back of my hair). The trick is to roll your hair vertically, and roll them toward the back of one's head I also like these curlers because they are easy to sleep with.


Hopefully, you can find these in germany.

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Thank you! I actually do pin curls every night - wet sets once or twice a week after a wash, and dry re-sets in between. I tried different curling techniques and pin culrs are just the most comfortable to sleep on. They take practice to do quickly but I find that they're very much worth the effort. Given enough setting lotion my hair holds a curl well enough.

I ended up getting a just below shoulder length U shaped cut with the bottom 2" evenly layered, and chin length bangs. So that's the same basic shape as the middy but with way less layering. My sets look much better now than with the blunt cut I had before. I'm pretty sure a middy would have looked rather skimpy on my thin hair so that's a good compromise.

I got the cut from Daniela of [URL="http://www.kiezschnitte.de/"]http://www.kiezschnitte.de/ - they specialize in rockabilly hair which isn't quite what I was going for (no bold colours or sky high pomps for me) but close enough for her to be able to optimize a basic timeless cut for pincurl sets. For instance she trimmed the bottom layer closest to the nape a little shorter at my request because that's where the curl always falls out after a short time. I also got an adorable little roll pattern on my front hair for a finish that I love so much that I've been reproducing it every day since.

I can't take pics right now but will do asap.

try taking a spray bottle and spraying the dry hair sparingly this helps hold the set for dry hair

Fräulein U. said:

I ended up getting a just below shoulder length U shaped cut with the bottom 2" evenly layered, and chin length bangs. So that's the same basic shape as the middy but with way less layering. My sets look much better now than with the blunt cut I had before. I'm pretty sure a middy would have looked rather skimpy on my thin hair so that's a good compromise.

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It sounds like we could be hair twinsies. The proper middy used to infuriate me, as my hair doesn't take kindly to bangs or too much layering. Eventually, using C-Dot's guide as a launching point, I figured out exactly what works for my fine-but-there's-lots-of-it, curly hair. I'm excited to see your photos when you get a chance to take them.

I just read two 1940s hairdressers' manuals cover to cover and wanted to share my insights about authentic haircuts back then. The books were Ivan Anderson's "Creative Hairshaping and Hairstyling You Can Do" (1947) and "Hairstyle Design" (aka "1940s Hair Design") by Louis Newberry (1946). Both are available for pdf download pretty cheap at Retrobelles.

While Ivan Anderson promotes his ever so famous Middy, Baby etc. haircuts that are basically uniform layer cuts (i.e. every strand on the head more or less the same length from root to tips) with variations, Louis Newberry claims that uniform layer cuts are "generally a condition to be avoided in hairshaping" because "the contour lines will be flat and unstable due to too few supporting ends". He suggests graduated haircuts instead, i.e. strands getting shorter towards the nape. (A more in depth explanation on uniform layer vs. graduated layer haircuts can be found at Hairfinder.)

So even original authorities were divided on the subject of the perfect cut. I assume that the popularity of Anderson's teachings are founded on the easy to follow rules he created. There are six basic cuts, a few well defined variations for rolls and pomps on side and top hair, and his principle on mass outlines to balance the finished style according to face and head shape. The End. Newberry's book on the other hand starts with an endless chapter on lines and proportions, only then applying those general artistic principles to hair styling. He seems to have more of an artistic approach, and having an artists' eye is much harder to teach. If I had the option of choosing either as a personal hairdresser I'd go for Mr. Newberry though - and probably ask him to do whatever, grinning sheepishly.

Another interesting side note is Newberry going on and on about razor cutting techniques, when a lot of people on here seem to say that razor cuts generally aren't suited to vintage styles. He also talks a lot about thinning/tapering with both scissors and razors (that's probably what you can see on video here and here - looks kinda brutal, but the results are really nice).

Based on those books and on looking at a lot of pictures from the 1940s I'd say that for the basic sets that we can do at home any basic cut that's rounded in the back, either blunt for a page boy, or layered with smooth transitions will be fine - there's no need to torture modern stylists with middy diagrams. The subtleties of authentic cuts make sense when you also have someone who can do pincurl sets like this. I assume that, sadly, most of us don't.

I'm terribly curious about your thoughts on the subject. And I highly recommend both books by the way, download is a dollar each and they're awesome resources.

Question (and an apology if it has been asked before, but I can't read all the pages!): is a middy suitable for a round face? My hair is almost shoulder length now, in need of a cut, and I am thinking about it. It's an inverted bob right now, which suits me very well. But I'd love to try a 1940s wavy style for the winter.

So, round face + middy = ... disaster...? I mean, round and curls together, are they any good?

Ok, ladies, I have not yet posted in this forum, but have been 'forum stalking', for lack of a better word, for a long time....
I had decided to follow C-Dots tutorial on cutting your own middy, though, I modified it to be slightly longer. I have cut my hair before, because I am either too busy or too poor to spend $40+ on a haircut that never does what I want it to.

The results after sleeping in pink foam rollers and a bit of setting lotion:



Needless to say, I am pleased. My hair has never, in it's entire life, had this much curl. My hair is very straight, thick and resistant to curl. This lasted all day.

You look fabulous. I've been growing mine out from a middy, but every time I browse this thread I get the urge to pull out the scissors...

Any idea how long a middy would have to be (shoulder length, chin, bit longer than chin) in order for me to get this kid of curl? In the photo I gathered my curls and pinned them up but I'm loving it so much that I'd really love to always have it this length.

Also, has anybody saved C-Dot's tutorial? All the images seem to be blank! Maybe I want to be naughty and give cutting a go.


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Hi everyone! It's been a while - I had carpal tunnel issues over the past few months and am getting back in the swing of things. My long-time hair stylist quit. I found a salon close to home, but they don't get the vintage look so I am ready to cut my own middy.I hope this works, but I found a repost of CDot's middy photos...:mullet:

KittyT said:

OK, here is a repost of CDot's middy tutorial, with the original photos. However, I'm not entirely positive if I've matched the photos up with the text properly, so please let me know if there are corrections.

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Hi everyone! It's been a while - I had carpal tunnel issues over the past few months and am getting back in the swing of things. My long-time hair stylist quit. I found a salon close to home, but they don't get the vintage look so I am ready to cut my own middy.I hope this works, but I found a repost of CDot's middy photos...

Originally Posted by C-dot
I've tried to make this as foolproof as possible. Hairdressing is just like carpentry: measure twice, cut once!
**Do not attempt this with dry hair!!**

Step one: Section off you hair as follows.

Top-

Sides-

Back-

Step two: Cut the sides.
All cuts with the Middy are done on an angle. Use your comb to brush your hair very smooth and flat, and angled to your chin:

Imagine a line from your chin to your collarbone. Clamp the hair in your two fingers along this line, and cut.

Step three: Cut the top hair.
The length you use for your top hair is very much a matter of preference. They can be as short as Bettie Page's, or down to your chin. If you often wear your bangs in curly Betty Grable styles or swept to the side, they can go no further than the tip of your nose. If you usually wear it in Victory Rolls, faux forward rolls or a backward roll, they will need to be past this point.

Clamp the hair with your two fingers in a straight line, and cut.

Step four: The back hair.
In a Middy cut, the back hair is done in a U-shape, with long layers so curls fall correctly. This extremely difficult to do by yourself, unless its like this.
Your pigtails should be placed in the centre and two-thirds of the way down the back of your head. Again, the length here is a matter of preference.

Clamp the ends of your pigtails in an upward angle - that is, the tips of your fingers should be closer to your head than your knuckles. Cut.

Step five: Perfect the angle.
This part is tricky. Take out your pigtails and comb your hair flat all over, as vertically as possible. You will notice that there is a definite length difference between your back and side hair. As carefully as possible, even out this difference by clamping sections of hair in your two fingers.

Remember!
-The Middy is for hair that is always curled and styled, so your cuts and lengths don't need to be exact.
-Don't get scissor-happy. If you think you've cut it too short, stop immediately. No good will come from more cuts.
-That said, there is room for error here, and if you do mess up, don't panic! Hair grows back, and with clever sets no one will know the difference.

Tenuki, you rock!

I've been searching myself to repost. I plan on doing the chop again this weekend, but it always makes me feel better to glance over the tutorial before hand.

Thank you ever so.

Tenuki said:

Hi everyone! It's been a while - I had carpal tunnel issues over the past few months and am getting back in the swing of things. My long-time hair stylist quit. I found a salon close to home, but they don't get the vintage look so I am ready to cut my own middy.I hope this works, but I found a repost of CDot's middy photos...:mullet:

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I don't mean to change the subject, but if you are experiencing carpel tunnel issues, most likely it is coming from an improperly set up workstation, incorrect typing posture, or the need for alternative typing equipment. If you are typing with your wrists above elbow level, or placing your wrist weight on the wrist rest when typing, this can restrict the nerve and add to discomfort in your hands. If by chance, you are doing none of these, it's time for a different keyboard. You may message me, and most likely I can guide you into what equipment would be best for you. Carpel tunnel can go away, but if you continue to type in the position that contributed to your discomfort originally you run the risk of permanently damaging the median nerve.

Perhaps silly question ladies, but when you're measuring the length of your layers where are you measuring from? I'm getting a middy cut in January (after talking myself out of cutting it myself) and am trying to figure out at which length I can still comfortably pin curl. However, I put a ruler at my scalp (where my parting is) and measure down...surely the longest length can't be ear height?

I'm thinking it would be from your scalp where there hair grew to the end if that specific hair, not from your main part. I just sort of wing it and never measure... I'm crazy like that.


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Lenore said:

I'm thinking it would be from your scalp where there hair grew to the end if that specific hair, not from your main part. I just sort of wing it and never measure... I'm crazy like that.


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Haha! You're wild, Lenore!
After I couldn't even section it myself properly I've decided to leave it to a professional. Armed with diagrams, info, chocolate and a massive tip for after if she does it properly!



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Reckless would be the word, darling. ;-)


I wish you the best of luck!


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Today I went to a local salon, that prides itself on vintage, wedding up-dos, with diagrams and "directions for the modern hairdresser" in hand! Little did I know that I didn't need to worry, the hairdresser turned out to be my hair soul mate, completely getting what I wanted, talking me through each step and even setting everything with hot rollers! Add to that the fact that she instantly knew what a pin curl was and asked if I'd like a wet set done under the big hood dryer (which she'd get up form the basement for me) in the future. SWEET VICTORY!

Having just set it dry and sprayed with some lottabody and water I have to say that I didn't need to worry about any bits of hair being too short- it was wonderfully easy to set in foam rollers! I'll share photos tomorrow and can't wait to get a hold on pin curls with this new length.

Oh, haircut of my dreams, you've finally arrived...



Middy after a lovely heated roller set by the hairdresser. Feeling very Liz Taylor!



Surprisingly all the layers were perfectly easy to set in sponge rollers despite initial panic at it being too short and fiddly for my fingers!



Muhahaha, hood hair dryer!



Next morning! Loving it, though not amused at the sweetheart's exclamation of, "Oooh, you look like a flapper!" Not quite my intention.



Still holding up besides getting rained on!

p.s. Excuse all the photos, I was feeling excited!