OOPS! I might have ruined new Bad Wolf Jacket!

Jaffa the Hat · Mar 28, 2014

Hello everyone

Recently bought a new bad wolf/U-boat jacket and when I received it I noticed the right lapel had been pressed 3-4 inches lower than the right (not to mention a few loose threads) I tried to ignore this but every time I put the jacket on and looked in the mirror it bugged me. I emailed John Doyle at Bad Wolf for advice on how I could correct the right lapel and bring level with the left but surprise, surprise, no reply! After sales care/support does not happen with Bad Wolf.

Anyway, did some research on Google on how to iron/press cowhide leather and all websites concur that low heat, brown paper or cloth as a barrier between the iron and the leather and absolutely no steam were what was needed. After a couple of applications it worked and the new crease bringing the right lapel level with the left lapel held! There seems to be no damage or discoloration to the ironed lapel etc. except the right lapel now has a noticeably smooth patch unlike the left lapel with the natural rough texture of the whole jacket. A leather specialist here in Wellington told me its permanent and that's it. The jacket is still wearable but If there is a way to restore the original wrinkled and rougher texture I'd love to know. Does anyone out there have any suggestions?

Sloan1874 · Mar 28, 2014

Some pics would help but hot water treatment and a bit strategic wrinkling might do the trick.

Jaffa the Hat · Mar 28, 2014

Hi Sloan

I have a camera phone that's out of the ark which I can't connect to a modern laptop but if I beg steal or borrow a more modern one I will try and get some pics on here in the next 24 hours. I always thought hot water would damage or stain the leather, have you tried hot water on a leather jacket yourself?

Sloan1874 · Mar 28, 2014

I used it on the collar of my Dustbowl, to shape it, but I also hung the jacket - carefully - into a very hot shower, just to get the sleeves to shorten up a bit quicker - I've found shinki leather is quite resistant to wrinkling. I've found that it tends to knock the shine off a jacket and takes on a patina - it also worked in setting the collar and arms. If you have a search on the Lounge for Hot Water Treatment or HWT, there's plenty here. What do others think?

Boyo · Mar 28, 2014

Ive used hot water on a horsehide A-2 in attempt to stretch the shoulders out a bit, the jacket did develop some nice wrinkling an the collar and sleeve, the finish also dulled a bit which for me was welcomed..

Dr H · Mar 28, 2014

Hmmm…depends on the amount of heat that/pressure that you've used I guess.
It's predominantly made up of proteins - you've broken a few (hydrogen) bonds, and disulphide bridges and made some more.
The extent to which is retains its new structure depends on how much cross linking you've introduced.

Boyo · Mar 28, 2014

^^so Dr. H what you're saying in English is that he 'f@#ked it up"

handymike · Mar 28, 2014

Rather than ironing, the HWT is a good way to shape things like lapels. I haven't seen much "graining" as a result of my experimenting though....

Dr H · Mar 28, 2014

Didn't spend years at college and university to put it that simply...

AustinTX · Mar 28, 2014

Jaffa the Hat said:
Hi Sloan

I have a camera phone that's out of the ark which I can't connect to a modern laptop but if I beg steal or borrow a more modern one I will try and get some pics on here in the next 24 hours. I always thought hot water would damage or stain the leather, have you tried hot water on a leather jacket yourself?

I utterly soaked a Gibson Barnes A-2 in the tub then threw it in the dryer on high heat to snub it up generally. Worked well, no weird aftereffects, and knocked some of the shiny off. It's chrome-tanned goat. Some of the worthies on this forum might advise you concerning your type of leather.

Jaffa the Hat · Mar 28, 2014

Thanks for all this feedback guys

So HWT if done correctly may do the trick. Next question, how do I apply the hot water? Do I run the lapel under a hot tap or use a cloth soaked in hot water and how hot should the water be etc?

Seb Lucas · Mar 28, 2014

Jaffa the Hat said:
Hello everyone

Recently bought a new bad wolf/U-boat jacket and when I received it I noticed the right lapel had been pressed 3-4 inches lower than the right (not to mention a few loose threads) I tried to ignore this but every time I put the jacket on and looked in the mirror it bugged me. I emailed John Doyle at Bad Wolf for advice on how I could correct the right lapel and bring level with the left but surprise, surprise, no reply! After sales care/support does not happen with Bad Wolf.

Anyway, did some research on Google on how to iron/press cowhide leather and all websites concur that low heat, brown paper or cloth as a barrier between the iron and the leather and absolutely no steam were what was needed. After a couple of applications it worked and the new crease bringing the right lapel level with the left lapel held! There seems to be no damage or discoloration to the ironed lapel etc. except the right lapel now has a noticeably smooth patch unlike the left lapel with the natural rough texture of the whole jacket. A leather specialist here in Wellington told me its permanent and that's it. The jacket is still wearable but If there is a way to restore the original wrinkled and rougher texture I'd love to know. Does anyone out there have any suggestions?

You could put it in a front loader washing machine on warm with a little soap and run it through a gentle cycle. I've washed 10 jackets or more over the years without any harm. Will make the leather look more broken in and uniform in finish. Doyle is not a premium trader so what can you reasonably expect from him? He is not a leather craftsman, he is a guy who makes a repo TV costume item using an outsourced manufacturer. Loose threads are no biggie, I'd be interested in seeing photos (maybe use a friend's camera) to see that lapel issue. That sounds like they pressed it wrong. Normally you would soak that area and press it in the correct place with some heavy flat items (books) leaving it to dry in the approved position.

Oh and let Doyle know you're talking about him on here. He may well respond. Perhaps he's just away on business.

Jaffa the Hat · Mar 30, 2014

Thanks Seb

I have managed to get some wrinkle back in to the lapel so it looks a bit less smooth. I have worn the jacket out and about and no one seems to notice so I may just leave it be. I get your point about John Doyle but he is the guy behind Bad Wolf and the salesman so I do feel he should respond to a reasonable enquiry from a customer.
I will try and get some pics on here about this time tomorrow

Jaffa the Hat · Apr 1, 2014

Ok sorry about the delay but here are the photos I promised:

Hope you can see what I mean about the smoothness of the inner area of the right lapel (right as to the wearer that is) whereupon the left hand lapel still has the original wrinkled appearance. My fault I know from never having worked with leather before. What do you think? I have had one leather salesperson suggest ironing the other side for symmetry!

Seb Lucas · Apr 1, 2014

Sorry man, I can't see any issues there. It's leather, any uneven issues will literally even out soon. just scrunch out the side you think looks too smooth to give it some character.

Jaffa the Hat · Apr 1, 2014

Thanks Seb, it's not so noticeable in the pictures as it is to the naked eye but like I said no one seems to have noticed yet. I don't want to keep messing around with the lapel and am really not sure about ironing the other side either. Like you suggest I think I may just keep scrunching the leather and hopefully the wrinkles will hold? Because the jacket is still new I am being somewhat precious about it I know but by this time next year I will throwing it around everywhere

Any other thoughts anyone?

l0fielectronic · Apr 1, 2014

Can't see any difference in the photos, even reading the text to see which side has the issue didn't help.
If its that minimal I wouldn't worry about it. As you say, I'm sure in six months or so of wear you'll have forgot about it yourself.

pipvh · Apr 1, 2014

Heat can make leather contract, so you'll have a thicker, smooth area with creases all around it where it has gathered in. If you don't have that going on, and it doesn't look as if you do, I agree with what others have said: it'll all even out with wear. Go out in the rain a few times. Don't iron the other side!

IXL · Apr 1, 2014

Advice? Just wear the jacket. It has no issues that anyone will notice, and will only get better with time and wearing.

Highwaymanman · Apr 1, 2014

There's often variation inside the same panel, let alone between panels on the same jacket. My pea coat has all sorts of different grained areas. All part of the development of the jacket's soul....

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