The Vintage Tailoring Thread

Metatron · Aug 24, 2014

Fastuni said:

The contrasting buttons also help.
Amazing suit. where did you find the photo?

Metatron · Aug 24, 2014

Fastuni said:

Sorry for the off topic, but here is a jacket identical the the one on the left:

Fastuni · Aug 24, 2014

The Borchert photos are from the "Deutsche Fotothek" archive.
Note that the sportcoat Stelzer wears on your photo has only one button... and quite long lapels.
I assume that it is late-40's or early-50's. Love those pleats and yoke.

Metatron · Aug 24, 2014

You have a better eye for detail than I!
Unfortunately he was killed in 1944, so probably early 1940s.

Qirrel · Aug 25, 2014

Barmey said:
Next step... The facing!

Same here:

herringbonekid · Aug 25, 2014

nice rounded pockets Q... is the jacket late teens inspired ?

Qirrel · Aug 25, 2014

It is. The pattern is from 1917, for a belt back sport coat with twin back pleats.

Barmey · Aug 25, 2014

Qirrel that looks great!

This afternoons efforts

herringbonekid · Aug 25, 2014

Barmey, is your patch pocket sewn on from the back by hand ?

Barmey · Aug 26, 2014

Felled on the edge, topstitched by hand, and then sewn from the back

Too much work really

herringbonekid · Aug 26, 2014

tailoring takes too long. it drives me mad. :twitch:

Qirrel · Aug 27, 2014

Sewn from the back in addition to felling and topstitching? Isn't that a bit overkill

herringbonekid · Sep 10, 2014

just started an early 20s Norfolk jacket project, using Molloy Donegal tweed:

under the needle:

reference:

herringbonekid · Sep 10, 2014

Qirrel said:
It is. The pattern is from 1917, for a belt back sport coat with twin back pleats.

Q, if you're using a vintage pattern for the first time do you do a toile / muslin fitting first to check the fit ?

Qirrel · Sep 11, 2014

herringbonekid said:
Q, if you're using a vintage pattern for the first time do you do a toile / muslin fitting first to check the fit ?

I usually just put in sufficient inlays and baste it up to check if anything needs to be fixed. When making for myself I know what changes need to be made at the pattern stage so most of the time there is nothing to change at the baste.

herringbonekid · Sep 12, 2014

question for Nick D: when you were making your shirt collars a few years ago did you use any interlining ?

i have some vintage fabric that i intend to make a shirt with, but i think it needs something inside the collar to give it a bit more thickness. any suggestions ?

Nick D · Sep 12, 2014

herringbonekid said:
question for Nick D: when you were making your shirt collars a few years ago did you use any interlining ?

i have some vintage fabric that i intend to make a shirt with, but i think it needs something inside the collar to give it a bit more thickness. any suggestions ?

Yes, I always interline collars. I've tried specialized "collar and cuff" canvas, but usually I just use plain cotton fabric which is thin but firm. For solid colors I might use another layer of the shirt fabric as the interlining, I've had good luck with that for soft collars.

herringbonekid · Sep 12, 2014

thanks Nick.

was there anything in particular wrong with the 'collar and cuff' canvas ?
my worry with plain cotton is that it would be too creasy, and not have enough 'roll'... i want to avoid any kinks along the turned edge.

Nick D · Sep 12, 2014

The stuff I got was supposed to be stiff, for what would have been a semi-soft collar back then, but I found it too bulky. A lighter weight one may work fine. I haven't noticed any trouble with plain cotton creasing or kinking, once I got the hang of shaping the fall. Cut the undercollar a hair short on the ends and stretch to fit, after turning fold on the fold line and trim the interfacing and undercollar even with the top collar. (Apologies if I'm repeating something you already know. Someone may find it helpful.)

herringbonekid · Sep 13, 2014

action pleat into side seam:

The Vintage Tailoring Thread

One Too Many

One Too Many

Call Me a Cab

One Too Many

Practically Family

I'll Lock Up

Practically Family

One of the Regulars

I'll Lock Up

One of the Regulars

I'll Lock Up

Practically Family

I'll Lock Up

I'll Lock Up

Practically Family

I'll Lock Up

Call Me a Cab

I'll Lock Up

Call Me a Cab

I'll Lock Up

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