Questions About the United States Navy Peacoat

Hi everyone,
I just bought a peacoat on eBay, and I'm a bit unsure about the dating, as there are no tags.
I was hoping you could help.
The coat has:
- 8 buttons, 6 showing
- Double stitching 3 inches above cuffs
- Black corduroy pockets

As i said there are no tags, but there is a service no. stamp below the right inside pocket, and what seems to be stitching from a tag:


Thanks in advance

TFeld said:

Hi everyone,
I just bought a peacoat on eBay, and I'm a bit unsure about the dating, as there are no tags.
I was hoping you could help.
The coat has:
- 8 buttons, 6 showing
- Double stitching 3 inches above cuffs
- Black corduroy pockets

As i said there are no tags, but there is a service no. stamp below the right inside pocket, and what seems to be stitching from a tag:

Thanks in advance

Click to expand...

Check out Peacoats "Peacoat Dating" sticky at the top and beggining of this Outerware section. It looks like a '67.

CJBianco said:

Hello, gentlemen. I've searched the threads and cannot find the answer to my question. Does anyone know the date range that Pembroke, Inc. had a contract for the US Navy pea coat?

Thanks in advance.

Christopher

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I have a Pembroke from 1968. That is about as much as I can tell you.

TFeld said:

Hi everyone,
I just bought a peacoat on eBay, and I'm a bit unsure about the dating, as there are no tags.
I was hoping you could help.
The coat has:
- 8 buttons, 6 showing
- Double stitching 3 inches above cuffs
- Black corduroy pockets

As i said there are no tags, but there is a service no. stamp below the right inside pocket, and what seems to be stitching from a tag:


Thanks in advance

Click to expand...

I believe 1966 was the last year for the double row of stitching 3" above the cuff. I have a 1967 coat that doesn't have this feature.

Big J said:

Bridge coats! Where can I get one of those?

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Big J, not knowing where in JPN you are exactly, if you are near Yokosuka or Sasebo, you might find one out in town. For other folks that are looking for newer Peacoates, if you are near Norfolk,VA or San Diego, CA, you might have a good chance of finding them near the bases on the cheap.

R/ David

Hi everyone!

I am new to Fedora Lounge (first post here) and shopping on the eBay, but have tried my best to educate myself on the subject on resources such as the "Pea Coat Dating" thread on this forum.

I am finally deciding to plunge in to purchase my very first pea coat and I wish to ask for some advice before making the purchase. In particular, I wish to find out how one goes about authenticating the pea coats on sale on eBay. Further, is there any particular vintage (i.e. the year) that I should be looking at to purchase the pea coats?

I am currently looking at this particular pea coat on eBay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/191375929828?_trksid=p2060778.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT. Although it seems to lack many photos, the seller seems to be reputable and I double checked the pictured tag and it seems to match up to a 1968 coat from the Pea Coat dating thread.

Thanks in advance for everyone's help!

Reynard said:

Hi everyone!

I am new to Fedora Lounge (first post here) and shopping on the eBay, but have tried my best to educate myself on the subject on resources such as the "Pea Coat Dating" thread on this forum.

I am finally deciding to plunge in to purchase my very first pea coat and I wish to ask for some advice before making the purchase. In particular, I wish to find out how one goes about authenticating the pea coats on sale on eBay. Further, is there any particular vintage (i.e. the year) that I should be looking at to purchase the pea coats?

I am currently looking at this particular pea coat on eBay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/191375929828?_trksid=p2060778.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT. Although it seems to lack many photos, the seller seems to be reputable and I double checked the pictured tag and it seems to match up to a 1968 coat from the Pea Coat dating thread.

Thanks in advance for everyone's help!

Click to expand...

I'm not one of the experts here, but have bought around fifteen coats over the last couple of years, so I know a bit. If you are worried about not getting an authentic coat, look at the label. I don't think I have heard of any person or company copying authentic US Navy labels. All of the nonmilitary coats have distinctive labels, luckily. We may have to face counterfeit labels in the future, but I don't think that day has come.

As for the best year, people seem to have preferences. Personally, I would stick to pre 1966, as these have the coat features I want; corduroy pockets, and two full sets of button holes. I also have a couple of late WWII era coats I wear, though I think the only difference between the late WWII and the earlier models are the lining material, and the label (stitched vs. printed). Externally, all of the two pocket 10 button coats appear the same, as far as I know.

Of the post WWII coats, some prefer the late 1940's as opposed to the 1950's or early 1960's. The 1940's wool is I believe a bit smoother, but the difference to me is not that noticeable, unless I'm looking for it.

The 1968 coat you linked to likely doesn't have corduroy pockets, so it wouldn't be my first choice. If you are a 36, you should have plenty of options as I think that is considered a less desirable size. I'm a 38, which is about as large as they get before you have to start paying a premium, especially for WWII era coats.

I looked at my eBay history for the last couple of years, and once I got patient, I was able to pick up nice post WWII coats for $20-$30 plus shipping. The Summer will usually yield the best deals; I picked up a mint late WWII size 42 for $40 + shipping in August. In the Fall or Winter $50-$70 + shipping is more common for last WWII, with early WWII coats going for a bit more.

In the end, don't worry too much. The coats are not that expensive, so if you like the first one, you will probably get some more; different sizes for layering, and different styles (10 button, 8 button, reefer, etc.).

Thanks for your reply!

I have read many comments (here and on other sites) that my size is relatively common on eBay and prices go as low as $20 to $50 to pick up a pea coat of my choice (I also have a preference for corduroy pockets and Kelsey wool). However, this has not been borne out by my searches on eBay! I regularly see prices going from $100 to even $300 for WWII-era pea coats, which I am not willing to pay without knowing for sure how they fit. I am not sure if the problem lies with my search terms (usually some variant of US Navy Pea Coat 36) or if it's just not in season?

Reynard said:

Thanks for your reply!

I have read many comments (here and on other sites) that my size is relatively common on eBay and prices go as low as $20 to $50 to pick up a pea coat of my choice (I also have a preference for corduroy pockets and Kelsey wool). However, this has not been borne out by my searches on eBay! I regularly see prices going from $100 to even $300 for WWII-era pea coats, which I am not willing to pay without knowing for sure how they fit. I am not sure if the problem lies with my search terms (usually some variant of US Navy Pea Coat 36) or if it's just not in season?

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I think you problem is two-fold:

1. Prices go up as the temperature goes down. The selection is smaller, but prices are lower in the summer. You are headed into prime season. I'm a 38, and I don't think I have paid more than $75 shipped for a WWII coat.

2. Your search is too selective. Just search for "Pea Coat" in the Collectables > Militaria. Many don't list a size in the title, and for WWII coats they may only list measurements since most don't have size tags. When they guess at the size from the measurements, they are usually wrong.

You may need to buy a few before you find one that fits the way you want. It took me two or three to find the first one I liked the fit of. Compared to what people pay for most coats and jackets on this website, pea coats are a bargain.

Thanks for the advice guys! I saw a picture of James Dean in a Bridge Coat- looked damn cool! I'll see if I can find one on eBay!

Where do you store you peacoats when you are not wearing them? Do you keep them in the coset, or is anyone else lucky enough to have their own Peacoat Locker? I assume this tag was for communal peacoat storage at sea, though not sure how to date it. No matter, something neat from eBay I plan to affix to the closet door. I provided some buttons we are all familiar with to provide a size reference.

David Minton said:

Where do you store you peacoats when you are not wearing them? Do you keep them in the coset, or is anyone else lucky enough to have their own Peacoat Locker? I assume this tag was for communal peacoat storage at sea, though not sure how to date it. No matter, something neat from eBay I plan to affix to the closet door. I provided some buttons we are all familiar with to provide a size reference.

View attachment 19163

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I have a small hallway closet at home which I keep all my wool stuff in. During the warm months when not wearing the pea coats (April - Sept.) I put each one into a plastic (vinyl) clothes bag which closes with a zipper. I then leave a box of moth balls open in this closet. The closet smells of moth balls but any and all of those wool clothes are never touched by moths. You could probably get by with just putting the pea coats in a clothes bag in any closet. During the cold months I close up the box of moth balls.

A good solution, Spoon. I have a closet I keep moth protected. In that closet I keep all of my leather jackets that have wool linings or shearling collars, and of course my pea coats. I have another closet that is similarly protected. In it go the overflow pea coats.

And, yes, there are manufacturers (one) that use a phony tag. See my peacoat dating thread for examples.

Welcome to the Lounge, Reynard. We are happy to have you.

Peacoat with Gold Buttons on the Inside

Hello. I found this vintage (1970?, dark blue) peacoat by Pembroke Inc. on eBay recently to replace my newer issue (black) peacoat by Sterlingwear. I've read that the higher ranks wore gold buttons, and the lower ranks black plastic buttons. This particular peacoat has the black plastic buttons on the outside and two hidden gold buttons. (One under the collar and one on the inside.) Is there any significance to the two hidden gold buttons?

Thanks in advance.

Christopher

CJBianco said:

Hello. I found this vintage (1970?, dark blue) peacoat by Pembroke Inc. on eBay recently to replace my newer issue (black) peacoat by Sterlingwear. I've read that the higher ranks wore gold buttons, and the lower ranks black plastic buttons. This particular peacoat has the black plastic buttons on the outside and two hidden gold buttons. (One under the collar and one on the inside.) Is there any significance to the two hidden gold buttons?

Thanks in advance.

Christopher

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The coats are made with 50 ligne black plastic buttons. Officers and Chief Petty Officers (E7-9) are required to wear 40 ligne brass buttons. My guess in your case is that the coat was owned by a Chief or Officer, and after he/she retired (or the coat was retired) the buttons that show were swapped back with the original 50 ligne plastic ones; however was sewing was lazy, or didn't have enough black buttons to do the job right.

^ No doubt something like that is the explanation in this case.

Last spring I picked up a genuine reefer and it had a full set of brass/gold buttons and two cloth loops sewn on each shoulder for the attachment of epaulets. In fact, I'd suggest that's the way to tell a peacoat from a reefer: the cloth loops on the shoulders. Otherwise, as far as I could tell, my reefer was identical to a regular peacoat.

Doctor Damage said:

^ No doubt something like that is the explanation in this case.

Last spring I picked up a genuine reefer and it had a full set of brass/gold buttons and two cloth loops sewn on each shoulder for the attachment of epaulets. In fact, I'd suggest that's the way to tell a peacoat from a reefer: the cloth loops on the shoulders. Otherwise, as far as I could tell, my reefer was identical to a regular peacoat.

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Chief Petty Office Reefer Coats won't have the loops, as only officers (and warrant officers?) wear shoulder boards on Reefer Coats. Most Reefer Coats are modified Peacoats, except those issued to Midshipmen, as far as I know. I am not sure about now, but I believe at least up until a certain point the Midshipman coats were custom made, so many don't have Navy labels, and not be standard sizes.

Yes, officers and warrant officers have the loops and wear the shoulder boards. And no, the Chiefs don't wear the shoulder boards and have no use for the loops. Simple matter to buy the reefer and surgically remove the loops. Easy operation that only takes a few seconds. Most now, however, just wear the bridge coat. With the liner, it is a fairly warm coat. Chiefs still need to remove the loops from the bridge coat.

As an aside, in the Army, and perhaps in the Navy as well, Warrant Officers have command authority and serve as commanders at the company level and below. Command above the company level is reserved for Lt. Colonels and perhaps Majors. I believe Majors serve as battalion commanders in non aviation units, but not positive. In aviation units it takes a Major to be a company commander, and at least a Lt. Col. to be a battalion commander. I believe this is correct, but not positive as it has been too many years ago to remember exactly. PC.

I found a photo of my dad at the Coast Guard Academy in 1947 wearing his peacoat. And now (from eBay) I have one just like it in my size! (I'm 5'5", 120#) How cool is that????

That is really cool as the Coast Guard tagged pea coats are extremely rare, especially from that era. And to make it even cooler, I would say the coat you got is from right around 1947. Congratulations.

[EDIT NOTE: OK, I see now that the tag you posted is from your Dad's coat, and not the one you recently purchased. I thought that would really be hard to find. Although it is cool that you got one to fit so well]