Show us their suits

Fastuni · Aug 13, 2015

Sean said:
But in terms of clothes, I think to people with any experience would have known certain differences. We can still generally say 'that isn't a British jacket' from features like scalloped yokes, buttoning pockets etc. But, as we have seen on this forum, telling the difference between a German and a Finnish suit isn't so easy!

That's what I meant. One could certainly differentiate between the big "style/tailoring schools" of that era: British, German, French, American. Other countries/regions largely followed one of them.
The German school influenced most of continental Europe, particularly Eastern and South-Eastern Europe, in the South and South-West it more followed French trends.
British style was eminent of course in the globe-spanning empire.

Yet to tell the differences between a Polish, Bulgarian, German or Swedish suit becomes more complicated. Or a French and a Belgian suit. So we can't really speak of "national styles" but several influential international trends.

PeterB · Aug 13, 2015

Fastuni, I stand corrected, or at least guided. The old "continental", "English" and "American" division might work, and possibly sub-groups between western Europe, dominated at least before WW2 by France, and Middle Europe, dominated possibly up to WW1 by Austria and after that from Germany. Like the German and Romanian styles on this forum. Educational for people like me, who are limited to US and English in their knowledge.

Two Types · Aug 14, 2015

The more we look at vintage clothing, the more there is to learn. I would to learn nore about the details of Eastern European tailoring. When I look at Russian photographs there seems to be a noticable difference between Russian suits and other European suits (with suits having a boxier cut than in other areas). But how far into Europe did the Russian influence go? I think you see the influence post-war but did it exist earlier?

Fastuni · Aug 14, 2015

Russian/Soviet tailoring certainly was also largely following the "German school".
The 30' Munich tailoring periodical "Rundschau" showed a world map for international subscriptions for it's instructions and patterns.
Moscow and Leningrad are among them (and all capitals of Eastern/S-Eastern Europe). I have to see whether I have the map.

Looking at this post-war chart of Soviet style evolution, I'd say it clearly follows continental European trends until the war's end.
A 1946/47 tailoring instruction for occupied Berlin mentioned that Russians prefer very wide trousers (60 cm foot width), shoulders and lapels
at a time when French/British/German tailoring was already going for tapered more narrow ankled trousers and narrower lapels.
The Russians also liked very long coats at that time.

Samarov, Cheremnykh: "Model und Design Menswear" 1949

Metatron · Aug 14, 2015

Photos of Russian civilians pre-1950s are so rare compared to other countries (online).
And I've never seen a vintage Russian suit.
I suspect 'vintage' isn't something that is very valued in Russia.

Fastuni · Aug 14, 2015

And I've never seen a vintage Russian suit.

The particularly dire era from the 1920's to the 1950's certainly saw most suits/clothes first worn to rags and then recycled into shoddy wool blends (both under Soviet and wartime German rule).
I'm sure not much has survived... and probably there was not much interest to preserve the little that has survived.

Metatron · Aug 14, 2015

And yet in Germany, gutted by aerial bombings, quite a few things seem to have survived, well looked after.

In searching for Russian photos, of course the language barrier is an issue.
The best source I have found for historical photos of everyday life in the Soviet Union in English, aptly named
http://englishrussia.com/

Postwar, 1940s-1950s:

Fastuni · Aug 14, 2015

Great color photos.

I decided to open a thread specifically for Soviet clothing:

http://www.thefedoralounge.com/showthread.php?83008-Soviet-suits-and-other-garments

Nobert · Aug 18, 2015

Probably a sport coat rather than a suit, but H.L. Mencken's bulky, tweedy jacket in this photo epitomizes the 'man of letters' aesthetic to me.

Fastuni · Aug 20, 2015

Germany 1935. A group photo of the Finkenwalde preachers seminary.
The balding guy with glasses and knit vest to the left, middle row, is Dietrich Bonhoeffer.

MelancholicNostalgic · Aug 21, 2015

Not quite movie stars, but still impeccably dressed, here's a photo I came across online of two factory workers in the 1930's.

Eddie Derbyshire · Aug 21, 2015

Metatron · Aug 25, 2015

Great photos chaps. Thanks for posting.

Here is something different: Postwar Germany

I find those closed toe sandals quite fetching. I saw a similar pair worn in Ossessione... with a pinstriped suit!

[huh]

herringbonekid · Aug 27, 2015

(most likely) British, single link-button:

CONELRAD · Aug 28, 2015

Boogie woogie piano man Roosevelt Sykes, circa 1930.

Metatron · Aug 29, 2015

Awesome. the 30s will always reign supreme as the most stylish decade in my opinion. That's perfection right there.

APP Adrian · Aug 30, 2015

Metatron said:
Awesome. the 30s will always reign supreme as the most stylish decade in my opinion. That's perfection right there.

I agree, when everything was built to last.

volvomeister13 · Sep 2, 2015

MelancholicNostalgic said:
Not quite movie stars, but still impeccably dressed, here's a photo I came across online of two factory workers in the 1930's.

When you consider that these guys were factory workers in the 1930's and compare their attire to the dreck worn by of multi-billionaires today (I'm looking at you, you Silicon Valley slobs!), it's clear modern society is doing something very wrong.

APP Adrian · Sep 2, 2015

Overdressing is such a dumb word. I would rather look handsome wearing a suit, hat, and overcoat than be fashionable wearing an "OCBD", loafers, and chinos.

APP Adrian · Sep 2, 2015

volvomeister13 said:
When you consider that these guys were factory workers in the 1930's and compare their attire to the dreck worn by of multi-billionaires today (I'm looking at you, you Silicon Valley slobs!), it's clear modern society is doing something very wrong.

Not everything in modern culture is correct. Improper dress and business casual is not okay.

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