Sewing machine for sweatbands and linings for felt hats - Recommendation Needed

ChicagoWayVito · Jan 7, 2015

Hi,

What kind of sewing machine is required in order to sew a sweatband and/or lining into a felt hat? I assume something vintage that allows you to get close to the needle without having a platform in the way. I don't think me 1999 Riccar 1570 is going to work.

Any recommendations on Make/Model that won't break the bank?

Cheers!

gtdean48 · Jan 7, 2015

Liners are typically tacked in by hand if they are not hot glued....

tonyb · Jan 7, 2015

I'm no sewing machine expert, but I can tell you that my attempts at using any machine other than one specifically designed to sew in hat sweatbands resulted in nothing but frustration.

The old Singer 107-1 has been "cloned" by ASM and can be had brand-spankin' new for only a couple of thousand dollars. It is a cylindrical free-arm machine with a tilted head (please forgive if the technical jargon ain't quite right). Try using a machine without all those attributes and you will soon appreciate why you want them. The machine is made for sewing in reeded sweatbands. Unreeded sweats require a different machine.

There are, and were, other machines used for this purpose. You may wish to contact Jim at JW Hats in Utah. He knows his stuff about hat-making tools and machinery.

Joshbru3 · Jan 7, 2015

Here's the thread I started a while ago about vintage Singer sewing machines for sweatbands, etc.

In this thread is some pretty good research about the machines and model numbers. Where to buy them is a mystery to me.

http://www.thefedoralounge.com/showthread.php?58160-Vintage-Millinery-Singer-Sewing-Machines-(Sweatbands-Binding-Ribbons-ETC)

ChicagoWayVito · Jan 8, 2015

Thanks for the information, very interesting sewing machines and unfortunately outside my budget.

tonyb · Jan 8, 2015

Yeah, this stuff gets spendy, for sure. Every serious hatter I know has poured a whole lotta dough into his shop equipment.

You can make a hat -- a darned good one, even -- without a sweatband machine or a flanging bag (aka "sandbagger") or a crown iron or a plating machine or a finger blocker or a pouncing machine or a brim jigger or any of those other pieces of machinery designed and built specifically for making hats. No, you don't absolutely need any of those machines. But every hatter with any experience to speak of is constantly on the lookout for that stuff and knows that having it would make his job a helluva lot easier and his output more consistent.

I can't imagine how you would produce a decent lid without the right block(s) and flange(s) and a flange stand. And a heavy iron. And a rounding jack. And a big ol' bottle of elbow grease. The more machinery you got, the less frequently you'll be reaching for that bottle. And that other bottle, too.

ChicagoWayVito · Oct 4, 2015

Just received my new ASM hatband sewing machine

majormoore · Oct 4, 2015

Did the attachment come with it and whom did you get it from

Major Moore

ChicagoWayVito said:
Just received my new ASM hatband sewing machine
View attachment 36176

ChicagoWayVito · Oct 4, 2015

By attachment I assume you mean the silver colored piece that is attached to the arm to the right of the needle? If so that came with the machine that I ordered from my friend JW of JW Hats in Utah. JW I believe makes that guide himself by hand based on some original ones he has. If interested give JW a call (801-977-0676) as it is the best way to get a hold of him.

majormoore said:
Did the attachment come with it and whom did you get it from

Major Moore

majormoore · Oct 5, 2015

I have those same machines for sale and attachments, I have machined made form original guides.

I know old Jim ( JW ) very well

Thanks
Major Moore

Luciana · Jan 12, 2016

ChicagoWayVito said:
Just received my new ASM hatband sewing machine
View attachment 36176

Hello, May I ask where you purchased this good looking machine/ Thank you

Moviehats · Jan 12, 2016

I sew sweatbands by hand. Takes longer, but doesn't tear up the felt as much.

Luciana · Jan 12, 2016

Moviehats said:
I sew sweatbands by hand. Takes longer, but doesn't tear up the felt as much.

Thank you for your response. Would this include sewing leather sweatbands?

Frunobulax · Jan 12, 2016

Luciana said:
Thank you for your response. Would this include sewing leather sweatbands?

I also sew by hand. I've only done a few, but they get better as I go along. And yes, leather sweat bands.

Joao Encarnado · Jan 12, 2016

I also sew by hand reeded sweatbands.

Moviehats · Jan 13, 2016

Luciana said:
Thank you for your response. Would this include sewing leather sweatbands?

Yes, that's all I use. Quite easy once you learn how.

ChicagoWayVito · Jan 17, 2016

Luciana said:
Hello, May I ask where you purchased this good looking machine/ Thank you

Sorry for the late response, I have been sick.

There are a couple type of sweatbands reeded and non-reeded. Each type requires a different type of sewing machine. The machine I have is for reeded sweatbands, it is a clone of the original older model from Singer (107-1) it is called the ASM 1107 and is on the expensive side. The clone starts around $2,300 and I only know of two places you can purchase from: JW Hats (www.jwhats.com) and Buckaroo Hatters (www.buckaroohatters.com). I purchased from JW Hats, you can call JW at 801-877-0676. JWs website is minimal and the only real way to get a hold of them is to call them directly. I don't personally know Mike of Buckaroo Hatters but JW does and he told me that Mike is a real good guy.

The Singer 107-1 you can find on eBay sometimes and will cost you a lot more. I found one for $3,500 once but more likely will cost you more.

If you are interested in a sewing machine for non-reeded sewing machines you will need to look up one of the other threads on this forum to find out the Make and Model numbers.

Let me know if you have any other questions.

Just Daniel · Oct 17, 2018

Our question has an answer, Dr Max!

@drmaxtejeda

drmaxtejeda · Oct 19, 2018

Just Daniel said:
Our question has an answer, Dr Max!

@drmaxtejeda

Thank you, Daniel. I looked in eBay today, no luck. Ignacio sayd he's looked, same result.

Sent from my LG-H870 using Tapatalk

Just Daniel · Oct 19, 2018

This other thread mentioned above has more info. Also the websites they mention for hatters that make clones of the machines are still active - but they look expensive!

Original thread:

https://www.thefedoralounge.com/thr...achines-sweatbands-binding-ribbons-etc.58160/

drmaxtejeda said:
Thank you, Daniel. I looked in eBay today, no luck. Ignacio sayd he's looked, same result.

Sent from my LG-H870 using Tapatalk

Sewing machine for sweatbands and linings for felt hats - Recommendation Needed

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