Looking For a Formal Fedora

Bungholio · Dec 27, 2015

Hello.

I'm looking for a very plain/formal fedora (Black, of course.). It will be worn with a three-piece, double-breasted suit, and a [black] double-breasted over-coat. I am 5'10", and I have an average/slim head and an average/slim build. I don't want to spend much over $200 U.S.D.. I'd ideally like to buy it on-line (So, I'm essentially asking for a link.).

If you have any other questions, I'd be happy to answer them.

Bungholio · Dec 27, 2015

Thank you, in advance.

JackieMatra · Dec 27, 2015

It would be good to know a bit more about what you mean by "formal fedora".
Homburgs are considered to be considerably more "formal" than fedoras.

However, I would venture to guess that you would probably want a fedora with a bound brim edge and a fairly wide ribbon.
If so, here's a nice one for less than half of your mentioned price. (You don't have to wear a feather, of course.)
http://www.australiangear.com/mens/fedora-hats/akubra-bogart-hat-black.html
Too bad, that you just missed out on these folks first ever 24% off sale by a little over a day.

Other than that, I'd suggest that you peruse the websites of these usual suspects:
http://www.delmonicohatter.com/SFNT.htm
http://www.hats-plus.com/?gclid=CK__hcSB_MkCFY-PHwod36gI7w
http://www.bencrafthats.com/

RJR · Dec 27, 2015

Good suggestions from JackieMatra.In my own experience I'd encourage you to contact Delmonico &/or Bencraft(Lounge members)and ask for advice you'll find them very helpful.

tropicalbob · Dec 27, 2015

I was surprised to learn some time ago that formal and evening hats were usually navy blue and not black. I think I read it on this forum, so it must be true.

-30- · Dec 28, 2015

I believe that the Pecking Order for the formality of hats is thus:

Top hat.
Opera hat.
(There are many subcategories for both of the above.)
Homburg. No feather; no side pinches.
Homburg. Side pinches and/or feather.
Coke aka Bowler.
Fedora. Brim width, (more) bound edge; no feather; no pinches.
Fedora. Brim width, (less) and/or raw edge and/or feather and/or pinches.

Regards,
J T

Frunobulax · Dec 28, 2015

tropicalbob said:
I was surprised to learn some time ago that formal and evening hats were usually navy blue and not black. I think I read it on this forum, so it must be true.

I don't know what's "right," but navy, or better, cobalt, blue with a black suit looks great. I've been looking for a nice cobalt blue Hommie for a while.

JackieMatra · Dec 28, 2015

The most formal hats, as I've heard/read are:
All always all black and always with a ribbon bound edge, and never with any feathers or any other adornments except a fairly wide ribbon with a side bow-
1.Silk Top Hat
2.Fur felt Top Hat
3.Fur felt Homburg with a center crease crown and no pinches
4.Fur felt Bowlers, pinched Homburgs, and Fedoras with fairly wide brims (at least 2.5")

Top hats are worn with white tie evening dress (tailcoats).
Homburgs are usually worn with black tie evening dress (tuxedos).
#4s are worn with business attire (suits).

An exception to all of the above is that non-black (nearly always gray) top hats are worn with morning dress (non-black (nearly always gray) tailcoats).

TheDane · Dec 29, 2015

Hmmm ... a couple of years ago I read on TFL, that in the US black suits are more or less reserved for funerals - while navy suits are for "regular" formal use - but maybe I misunderstood

For tuxedo I would think the tuxedo-hat (black or dark fedora with silk lined underbrim) is more "correct". But who knows these days? A red ball-cap (or rather a red filling-station-give-away-cap) with white lettering seems very popular with the American upperclass nowadays

Bob Roberts · Dec 30, 2015

TheDane said:
Hmmm ... a couple of years ago I read on TFL, that in the US black suits are more or less reserved for funerals - while navy suits are for "regular" formal use - but maybe I misunderstood

For tuxedo I would think the tuxedo-hat (black or dark fedora with silk lined underbrim) is more "correct". But who knows these days? A red ball-cap (or rather a red filling-station-give-away-cap) with white lettering seems very popular with the American upperclass nowadays

Smells like Mein Trumpf...

Bungholio · Dec 30, 2015

Thank you for all the replies.

So, are we all in agreement that JackieMatra's fedora is as formal as fedora's go?

Seb Lucas · Dec 30, 2015

I think a black fedora with a black suit will be overstated and may look off - the risk is looking a little like a b-grad Mob guy or one of the Blues Brothers. Generally when a fedora is worn with a lounge suit it is a different color - a dark grey for instance. Unless you're going for the Orson Welles, black clad maverick impresario look, which requires a three inch brimmed Fedora. A throwback to the late Victorian period, perhaps.

JackieMatra · Dec 30, 2015

I can't see where a black suit was ever mentioned by Bungholio.
Black overcoat, yes. Black suit, no.

The "Blues Brothers" wore black single-breasted two-piece poorly cut suits with smaller brimmed fedoras, paired with dark glasses and skinny black neckties.

Bungholio specifically said his suit was to be a double-breasted three-piece suit.

A very dark gray suit, black hat, shoes, and overcoat would be appropriate for most anything but the most formal white/black tie type occasions, including both funerals and weddings, nowadays.

Bungholio · Dec 30, 2015

Seb Lucas, the suit isn't black. The over-coat is. Regardless of whether or not it looks good, when matching the color of one's dress hat with their over-coat, that's what I plan on doing. I'm just O.C.D. like that.

JackieMatra knows.

Any other suggestions, before I buy the hat that he suggested?

jlee562 · Dec 30, 2015

....I mean...there are lots of black hats.

Do YOU have a preference for ribbon width? Edge treatment? Brim size?

The Akubra Bogart is a decent hat that will hold up to inclement weather well.

IMHO, a finished edge and wider ribbon are better suited for a formal look. In that vein, you might like Stetson Whippet:
http://www.delmonicohatter.com/Stetson-Hats-Fedora/321023.htm

You might also consider a silk finish:
http://www.delmonicohatter.com/Stetson-Hats-Fedora/TFFRNZ.htm
http://jjhatcenter.com/collections/...course-by-stetson-in-black?variant=3909050372
http://www.bencrafthats.com/product.php?pid=1039&subcname=Felt+Hats
Or a Suede finish:
http://www.bencrafthats.com/product.php?pid=408&subcname=Felt+Hats
http://www.bencrafthats.com/product.php?pid=165&subcname=Felt+Hats

BR Gordon · Dec 30, 2015

You might want to look a the Black Tie Guide. thttp://www.blacktieguide.com. A lot of very useful information covering both Black and White Tie.

Seb Lucas · Dec 31, 2015

Bungholio said:
Seb Lucas, the suit isn't black. The over-coat is. Regardless of whether or not it looks good, when matching the color of one's dress hat with their over-coat, that's what I plan on doing. I'm just O.C.D. like that.

JackieMatra knows.

Any other suggestions, before I buy the hat that he suggested?

Ah huh - that's better, my mistake. Anything fur felt by Akubra will look fine. Jtee poses some good alternative options and the question remains what kind of look are you after?

Bungholio · Dec 31, 2015

jlee562:

I know nothing about any of those. Is one more plain/formal/conservative than the rest? Sorry for my lack of knowledge.

BR Gordon:

I have no interest in wearing this with Black Tie or White Tie. I explicitly stated that this is for a suit. I probably wouldn't wear any hat with Black Tie, and top hats are the only acceptable dress hat for White Tie, so none of that applies to me, or the fedora that I'm prowling the Internet for.

Seb Lucas:

That depends. I know nothing about "looks". What look did you imagine, when you read about what I plan on wearing with the fedora?

Rogera · Dec 31, 2015

Bob Roberts said:
Smells like Mein Trumpf...

Now that's funny!

Rogera · Dec 31, 2015

Bungholio said:
jlee562:

I know nothing about any of those. Is one more plain/formal/conservative than the rest? Sorry for my lack of knowledge.

BR Gordon:

I have no interest in wearing this with Black Tie or White Tie. I explicitly stated that this is for a suit. I probably wouldn't wear any hat with Black Tie, and top hats are the only acceptable dress hat for White Tie, so none of that applies to me, or the fedora that I'm prowling the Internet for.

Seb Lucas:

That depends. I know nothing about "looks". What look did you imagine, when you read about what I plan on wearing with the fedora?

More importantly what look do you imagine? You have to have some idea. A hat is a little more than just another piece of clothing!

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