About tweed suits...

Benproof · Jan 11, 2016

Interested in any feedback from any one with modern tweed tailored suits here.

I think I hit that age where tweed seems to feel as natural as a hoody. I've seen some like this:

but I don't really know what to look for in tweed. Some tweed cap I have, is apparently weather resistant (densely woven fibres? treated with wax?) Any advice?

This suit is 60% wool and has a rather cardboard feel to me, but maybe I imagined it was supposed to feel like cavalry twill or something else. What grade wool do you go for?

Interested to hear any modern makers. I've looked at some Harris Tweed (the material - sourced from Shetland Isles) but the lack of colour codes makes it difficult to try to piece together except by guess work.

Thanks

Benproof · Jan 11, 2016

http://www.gentlemansgazette.com/tweed-guide-harris-history-styles-patterns/

is where I've got all the little I know.

Luis · Jan 12, 2016

All I've got is from my experience is get 100% wool.
On short notice and lack of luggage space all I had one rainy cold day was a wool fully lined tweed jacket.
Popped the collar up to break the wind, along with a flat cap it not only looked but felt great. It did the job keeping me warm.
Get something that is made is UK, US... something not made in china or of that sort.
Harris Tweed is great.

stratcat · Jan 13, 2016

I've got a couple of Harris tweed Jackets and a Harris tweed overcoat. The wool is seriously tough but not cardboard stiff, it is thick though. I love the stuff!
The one thing to consider is that tweed was designed for outdoor clothing. I do sometimes wear my Harris overcoat over my Harris jacket and it is very warm. If I was indoors a three piece suit as pictured would be too warm to wear in a heated indoor environment.
I thought hard and seriously considered buying a three piece from here http://www.harristweedshop.com/index-men.html.
In the end I decided it would be too warm to wear for work, although it would be just the thing for walking on the fells

Luis · Jan 13, 2016

Yea the tweed is definitely warm for indoors. If you were outside all day in 30-40F degree weather, im from Texas so thats cold to me, it would be great. Yes the wool tweed is a tough weave and can take a beating.

Hal · Jan 14, 2016

stratcat said:
If I was indoors a three piece suit as pictured would be too warm to wear in a heated indoor environment...In the end I decided it would be too warm to wear for work, although it would be just the thing for walking on the fells

This is undoubtedly true. Many interiors are overheated, thus interfering with sensible dressing when going between outside and inside. People seem to think that the prime purpose of clothing is appearance; that is important, but its use for the regulation of thermal comfort is surely primary.

Luis · Jan 14, 2016

Hal said:
This is undoubtedly true. Many interiors are overheated, thus interfering with sensible dressing when going between outside and inside. People seem to think that the prime purpose of clothing is appearance; that is important, but its use for the regulation of thermal comfort is surely primary.

Many establishments have it to where it is warm to even wear a long sleeve shirt and under shirt at times.
In my work place they are always leaving the shipping doors open on the first floor so it gets cold quick down where I work. I have to bring a sweater vest or pull over.
100% agree, clothes are meant for functional purposes, just happens to be that they looked good too during the Golden Era.

Dirk Wainscotting · Jan 15, 2016

If it isn't all wool, then it isn't Tweed, because Tweed is always made of wool. Any percentage under is just a wool blend. There is a tendency to refer to any cloth that looks like woollens (which really means 'not worsted') as 'tweed', but the two can be miles apart.

This doesn't mean that getting a suit made of woollen cloth is bad, it's just not specifically Tweed, which is a particular cloth, made in a particular way, from particular regions:Outer Hebrides, Ireland and North of England; with the Scottish tweeds being closely associated with the name. Genuine Tweed is hard-wearing, but can also be soft. It's made in quite small batches because it is hand-woven (foot-propelled actually) by what are essentially cottage industries.

Now, getting a suit made from woollens doesn't have to be tweed, there are many other cloths to choose from as you can see by visiting Huddersfield Cloth. The non-Harris tweeds/twills there give a good idea of the varieties. You can't really go wrong with a grey, brown or blue herringbone twill for a suit. It's not overly 'country' and not too loud for town.

Cad & the Dandy makes tweed suits and jackets and they are aimed at younger consumers.

Think about flannel as well. It is textured, warm and often buttery soft, though sometimes less hard-wearing than tweed. Though I doubt you'll be playing rugby is a suit anyway!

esteban68 · Jan 15, 2016

Thornproof is often a wool mix and VERY hard wearing!

Dirk Wainscotting · Jan 15, 2016

esteban68 said:
Thornproof is often a wool mix and VERY hard wearing!

Mixed with what? "Thorn proof" tweed is just a tighter twisted yarn and a more solid weave; sometimes of mixed weight yarns. It's still 100% wool.

esteban68 · Jan 15, 2016

I've had and sold quite a few British 'Thornproof' suits from the late 50's onwards the majority of which have been a wool mix , it's not often stated what the mix is usually just "other fibres" they still wear very well in my experience.

Dirk Wainscotting · Jan 15, 2016

The problem is "thorn proof" is not any sort of trademark, so anyone can make a heavyish wool suit and call it "thornproof" and thus garner all the associations of old-world country pursuits in heavy tweed.

esteban68 · Jan 15, 2016

True enough!

Benproof · Jan 16, 2016

About thornproofing - Did Barbour (England) not specialise in this? Or maybe theirs was a kind of waxing finish to make fabrics water resistant for the British wet season.

I think I understand thanks to everyone here. There is a lot of fashion stuff out there marketed as 'retro' tweed for the hipster movement (and they move on bicycles, in line with their anti-modern fashion sensibilities!) however checking the labels, yes some of them are made in the Far East...which clearly doesn't make sense, if 100% scottish tweed is sent all the way to be pattern cut in to clothes overseas, then sent back to the UK for selling.

Already have flannel, which is probably too formal looking for casual wear, or at least everyone else seems to think so, whereas tweed has a more comfortable casual appearance. Some of the older designed tweed jackets have half belts, close crop cuts with high arm pits which are more ergonomic than the modern off the shelf ones which fit average builds and baby elephants alike. In any case, 100% wool of named origin ...that's a good focus to start of with.

PeterB · Jan 22, 2016

Benproof, the thorn proof is worth getting, if you buy it from reputable dealers. It is not too hot, I find, and will last a lifetime. Get the cloth, and have the tailor work on it.
Flannel might be right for casual, depending on the colour. I think it would also depend on the type of flannel -- some are quite rough, and not shiny.

Benproof · Jan 22, 2016

Thanks Peter.

Does that then narrow it down to Barbour?!

Hal · Jan 22, 2016

Benproof said:
Does that then narrow it down to Barbour?!

I think that "thornproof" as far as Barbour is concerned refers to their waxed-cotton clothing; I don't think they use the word with respect to tweed.

Benproof · Feb 27, 2016

Thanks Hal. Is there any spray on fabric (? teflon??) which can waterproof a tweed jacket better than it already is?

There is probably some reason why not. I realise that carrying an umbrella may be the only way to stop a woollen tweed jacket from going mouldy smelling after it has been drenched in the rain.

Dirk Wainscotting · Feb 28, 2016

Benproof said:
I realise that carrying an umbrella may be the only way to stop a woollen tweed jacket from going mouldy smelling after it has been drenched in the rain.

It won't smell either musty or mouldy if it is allowed to dry off in a ventilated place, and brushed off, before being put back in the wardrobe. Tweed can take showers easily. Many a time I've cycled home in the rain in a tweed coat with no ill-effects.

In any case, if it's raining and a man is concerned about wetting his togs, that man probably needs a raincoat.

Benproof · Feb 28, 2016

Hmmm. I don't think so. I can smell the odour from wet tweed coats just walking around. Then again, I tend to notice more than my colleagues. Well, I think their wet coat stinks. They think they smell fine!

Raincoat = no good. It just traps perspiration underneath and makes a sticky mess, whilst keeping rain out.

I like Etaproof for that reason....

Oh look who it is in tweed... did it rain once in the series when he was wearing that 3-piece tweed suit?
brideshead_revisited_irons_andrews_tweed_pig_1.png

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