Buzz Rickson N-1 Deck jacket - sizing problems

octopus_luke · Sep 28, 2016

Hi guys,

Autumn is here in Copenhagen, so it's time for me to start thinking about buying that N-1 I have wanted for so long.

I found an eBay seller with a Tenderloin/K Seven N-1 in Medium/38 up for grabs. I believe this brand is closely next to BR, or even the same jacket, just rebranded. Before I jump in and bid, I am puzzled by the sizing presented:

58cm/22.5in Pit to Pit
56cm/22in Pit to Cuff
50cm/20in Shoulder to Shoulder (in a straight line across the back of the jacket)

On every account, the jacket is a little bit bigger than the measurements presented for a Medium on History Preservation, which seems to be the mecca for detailed sizing outlines:

Size S M L XL XXL XXXL
Chest width 21" 22" 23" 24" 25" 26"
Shoulder width 17" 18" 19" 20" 20" 22"
Arm length 23.5" 24.5" 26" 26" 26" 27"
Back length 25.5" 26.5"

I am 184cm, 160lbs and a 38R in suits, and I like a snug but overly so fit.

My question: have the sizing measurements for BR changed over the years, or do they remain a constant? I'm inclined to jump in with the eBay buy, but I am concerned it's going to be a little baggy.

Size knowledge on the BR would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Luke

wdw · Sep 28, 2016

Never heard of Tenderloin/K Seven, but I got the BR N-1 last year in L and the size matches HP, who I agree knows his stuff size-wise. I'd trust him over a random EBay guy any day, but the eBay guy may simply be wrong.

Remember the lining is quite thick, so it's a bit neater inside than non-pile jackets.

octopus_luke · Sep 28, 2016

Fair point. I think it probably is a wee bit big for me though. Impossible to try one on as no one nearby stocks them, and Buzz Rickson stock in general seems to have dried up.

EmergencyIan · Sep 29, 2016

I can tell you that the Buzz N1 that's labeled size medium fits like a size 38 and not any bigger. The Buzz N1 with the numbered size 38 is slightly bigger than the lighter weight medium sized N1. I've owned both.

- Ian

octopus_luke · Sep 29, 2016

EmergencyIan said:
I can tell you that the Buzz N1 that's labeled size medium fits like a size 38 and not any bigger. The Buzz N1 with the numbered size 38 is slightly bigger than the lighter weight medium sized N1. I've owned both.

- Ian

Hi Ian. Thanks for this. Do you know anything about the Tenderloin/K SEVEN branding? The seller told me that he had the jacket refitted with the BR alpaca wool lining, which leads me to think that this eBay version, while having larger external measurements, probably is quite chunky on the inside, making up for any lost space.

Fortunately, the seller has mentioned that he will make a refund if the sizing isn't quite right so, in a worse case scenario, I just have to pay for the return international postage.

Follow up question: I'll be in NYC mid-October. Does anyone know a retailer for BRs out there?

Thanks,
Luke

HPA Rep · Sep 30, 2016

octopus_luke said:
Hi Ian. Thanks for this. Do you know anything about the Tenderloin/K SEVEN branding? The seller told me that he had the jacket refitted with the BR alpaca wool lining, which leads me to think that this eBay version, while having larger external measurements, probably is quite chunky on the inside, making up for any lost space.

Fortunately, the seller has mentioned that he will make a refund if the sizing isn't quite right so, in a worse case scenario, I just have to pay for the return international postage.

Follow up question: I'll be in NYC mid-October. Does anyone know a retailer for BRs out there?

Thanks,
Luke

Over the many years of offering this style, we have seen various sizes that are off spec., so some can run bigger or smaller. Our posted measures are always averaged after measuring multiple items of the same size, which is clearly articulated on the website, and we check the measures of new stock on repeating items each year, such as the N-1. But we cannot measure very single jacket, so surprises sometimes show up unexpectedly; however, if a customer asks us to measure their purchase we will do this to confirm it's within spec. tolerance, though, again, we can't measure multiple jackets to find one that's exactly what someone wants.

Blackadder · Sep 30, 2016

octopus_luke said:
Hi Ian. Thanks for this. Do you know anything about the Tenderloin/K SEVEN branding? The seller told me that he had the jacket refitted with the BR alpaca wool lining, which leads me to think that this eBay version, while having larger external measurements, probably is quite chunky on the inside, making up for any lost space.

Fortunately, the seller has mentioned that he will make a refund if the sizing isn't quite right so, in a worse case scenario, I just have to pay for the return international postage.

Follow up question: I'll be in NYC mid-October. Does anyone know a retailer for BRs out there?

Thanks,
Luke

Tenderloin is a Japanese exclusive brand made famous by the Japanese actor/singer Takuya Kimura of the group SMAP who started wearing their flannel shrits and horseshoe ring some 10 years ago. Another brand that got famous because of him is Goro's. Mr Kimura is quite the trend setter in Asia that the up and coming Korean pop stars have just started wearing the same Goro's and Tenderloin jewelry 10 years later. Brand is exclusive because they only make a limited number of merchandise each season. They have one shop and a handful of dealers and dealers are not allowed to show pics of mechandise on their own websites or online shops.

octopus_luke · Oct 1, 2016

Blackadder said:
Tenderloin is a Japanese exclusive brand made famous by the Japanese actor/singer Takuya Kimura of the group SMAP who started wearing their flannel shrits and horseshoe ring some 10 years ago. Another brand that got famous because of him is Goro's. Mr Kimura is quite the trend setter in Asia that the up and coming Korean pop stars have just started wearing the same Goro's and Tenderloin jewelry 10 years later. Brand is exclusive because they only make a limited number of merchandise each season. They have one shop and a handful of dealers and dealers are not allowed to show pics of mechandise on their own websites or online shops.

Thanks for the brand info, Blackadder. Do you know anything about the fit and quality of Tenderloin stuff and, in this case any connection to the BR?

HPA Rep · Oct 1, 2016

octopus_luke said:
Thanks for the brand info, Blackadder. Do you know anything about the fit and quality of Tenderloin stuff and, in this case any connection to the BR?

No affiliation to BR whatsoever.

EmergencyIan · Oct 1, 2016

Luke,

I checked out the Tenderloin deck jacket. You may want to hold off until you can pick-up a BR N-1 deck jacket.

Self Edge in NYC sells some Buzz Rickson products. You may check with them.
157 Orchard St, New York, NY 10002
Phone (212) 388-0079

Of course, you could order one from History Preservation Associates here in the United States. Great customer service, they'll help figure out the correct size for you and they'll ship anywhere, I believe.
http://www.historypreservation.com

- Ian

Blackadder · Oct 1, 2016

octopus_luke said:
Thanks for the brand info, Blackadder. Do you know anything about the fit and quality of Tenderloin stuff and, in this case any connection to the BR?

Sorry save for the horseshoe ring I have not handled a piece of their products. I tried to go to their Ebisu shop but couldn't find the time because my friends spent too much time at Kapital when we visited Ebisu a few months ago. From what I heard, the quality is good.

octopus_luke · Oct 2, 2016

EmergencyIan said:
Luke,

I checked out the Tenderloin deck jacket. You may want to hold off until you can pick-up a BR N-1 deck jacket.

Self Edge in NYC sells some Buzz Rickson products. You may check with them.
157 Orchard St, New York, NY 10002
Phone (212) 388-0079

Of course, you could order one from History Preservation Associates here in the United States. Great customer service, they'll help figure out the correct size for you and they'll ship anywhere, I believe.
http://www.historypreservation.com

- Ian

Hey Ian,

Thanks for this. I am sill umming and ahhing over the Tenderloin jacket, though will probably let it go. It does seem too big.

I am still toying with the idea of the Real McCoys N-1 over the BR. Ultimately, I want to be able to try either on before buying and sending the jacket 5000 miles across the world. I'll check out Self Edge when I am in town. I guess they are due the A/W 2016 BR collection sometime soon.

Cheers,
Luke

carl1000 · Oct 12, 2016

I bought a Pike Bros Deck jacket. It "fit" but I looked like the Goodyear blimp man. I took some measurements and sent it to Johnson leathers. They literally performed a miracle and reduced the sleeve circumference, the chest. It now looks amazing. I can't even tell how they took it apart.

EmergencyIan · Oct 16, 2016

octopus_luke said:
Hey Ian,

Thanks for this. I am sill umming and ahhing over the Tenderloin jacket, though will probably let it go. It does seem too big.

I am still toying with the idea of the Real McCoys N-1 over the BR. Ultimately, I want to be able to try either on before buying and sending the jacket 5000 miles across the world. I'll check out Self Edge when I am in town. I guess they are due the A/W 2016 BR collection sometime soon.

Cheers,
Luke

There was a Real McCoy's store in Manhattan, as well, but I'm not sure it's still open. You may want to look into that.

- Ian

HPA Rep · Oct 17, 2016

octopus_luke said:
Hey Ian,

Thanks for this. I am sill umming and ahhing over the Tenderloin jacket, though will probably let it go. It does seem too big.

I am still toying with the idea of the Real McCoys N-1 over the BR. Ultimately, I want to be able to try either on before buying and sending the jacket 5000 miles across the world. I'll check out Self Edge when I am in town. I guess they are due the A/W 2016 BR collection sometime soon.

Cheers,
Luke

Self Edge doesn't carry any BR N-1 jackets, Luke: we supply SE stores and none have been ordered. The only source in N. America for BR N-1's is ourselves and we offer the standard version in blue or khaki, the heavy-weight version w/ out stencil made just for us in blue or khaki, and the black WG version when they are produced, which this year they are.

RegentSt1965 · Oct 18, 2016

trust HPA for BR info. Remember though that the BR Demotex/Seawash N1 has been a different size. So, the ebay measurement may well be different.

octopus_luke · Oct 21, 2016

Thanks guys. I am now toying with a vintage original or Real McCoys instead, but will continue to consider the BR.

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