Post '30s belt-back jackets and suits

HamilcarBarca3 · Jun 10, 2016

Dirk Wainscotting said:
And the rear of the armscyes cleaning up I presume?

That's mostly my fault. I got this habit where I lock my knees, puff out my chest and roll my shoulders back when taking a solo picture like this one. At a natural pose there's no problems

jamesmac1801 · Sep 30, 2016

My first beltback jacket.

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Fastuni · Sep 30, 2016

Thats a nice one!

willyto · Sep 30, 2016

I like the fabric. And it looks like it breaths a lot. Nice combination of action back and belt back.

The sleeves might be a bit short on you, you could try to lenghten them.

VintageEveryday · Nov 21, 2016

I've run across many 70s-does'30s suits ans sport coats. None of them fit, and the ones that do have skinny, ugly lapels. I saw a orgeous tweed 70s belt back with a center gusset that was literally exactly what I'm looking for....only it was a size 40. I'm a size 46. C'est la vie.

Michael A · Nov 21, 2016

I just noticed this thread. Here is a Zero King from sometime around 1969.

P1210124 crop by Michael A2012, on Flickr

Half Belt Zero King Jacket by Michael A2012, on Flickr
Heavy wool twill with suede shooting patches and a wool tartan lining. Action back. More of a coat weight than dress jacket weight.

Zero King 3 Button Jacket by Michael A2012, on Flickr

I will be back in a minute with a different one.

Michael

Michael A · Nov 21, 2016

Another shooting jacket. This one made in England for Orvis.

11-11-2016 Today's Clothes by Michael A2012, on Flickr
Harris tweed with suede leather shoulder and elbow patches. Action back.

P1210464 crop by Michael A2012, on Flickr
No idea when this one was made.

P1210473 crop by Michael A2012, on Flickr

Michael

willyto · Nov 22, 2016

Michael A said:
I just noticed this thread. Here is a Zero King from sometime around 1969.

Heavy wool twill with suede shooting patches and a wool tartan lining. Action back. More of a coat weight than dress jacket weight.

I will be back in a minute with a different one.

Michael

The boots with the knickers is a killer outfit. What boots are those?

Michael A · Nov 22, 2016

Thanks. The boots are Sears Wearmasters. If you click the picture in the jacket post you should go to my flickr page and there are more pics of the boots and jacket there.

Sears Wearmaster Boots by Michael A2012, on Flickr
And more of the boots around this one. Sears sold something very similar at least from the mid-30s into the 60s. The vintage dealer that sold them to me thought these were from the 40s. I don't know enough about it to contradict him They have a 16" shaft and I got them more or less specifically to wear with knickers.

Michael

jamesmac1801 · Nov 30, 2016

Today's goodwill find ! I was looking through all of the ugly 90s jackets and came across this wonderful 80s tweed belt back and could not pass it up .

I love the 3 roll 2 buttoning on the jacket .

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Mean Eyed Matt · Nov 30, 2016

That's a nice one! Love the fabric and the pleat pockets...
And a great look overall!

VintageEveryday · Nov 30, 2016

jamesmac1801 said:
Today's goodwill find ! I was looking through all of the ugly 90s jackets and came across this wonderful 80s tweed belt back and could not pass it up .

I love the 3 roll 2 buttoning on the jacket .

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That's a gorgeous coat! From a distance, it could pass for 1930s, which is what I love about that particular style

jamesmac1801 · Nov 30, 2016

VintageEveryday said:
That's a gorgeous coat! From a distance, it could pass for 1930s, which is what I love about that particular style

Thank you sirs ! I'm curious you said at a distance, what exactly makes the jacket incorrect? Is it the buttoning stance ?

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VintageEveryday · Nov 30, 2016

jamesmac1801 said:
Thank you sirs ! I'm curious you said at a distance, what exactly makes the jacket incorrect? Is it the buttoning stance ?

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the button stance and lapel width are (IMO) decent for a mid 30s style sport coat. Many of them seem to have high wide lapels, but the illustrations and period photographs are much more varied than the suits shown on the forums here.

The shoulders do slope downward slightly, as opposed to the structured shoulders of the 30s. (that can be fixed if you want. a tailor can do that, but as I have yet to go to one, I just stuff handkerchiefs or paper towels in the space where my shoulder ends and the armscye begins. )

I've never seen elbow patches on anything before the 1950s, though, and i think they look dorky on what is otherwise a very flattering jacket.
Far more common was the ventless jacket. I've seen several motion pictures from the 30s with belt backs/ center vents, so it WAS done; just not terribly common.

I'm getting a nearly identical sport cost shipped to me pretty soon, and I'm going on and removing the elbow patches. They just look too firmly rooted in the "college professor" 70s as opposed to a 70s-imitating-the-30s style.

all in all, it's a gorgeous jacket, and you wear it so well! I think if you were to time travel and wear it in the 30s, you'd blend right in.

jamesmac1801 · Dec 12, 2016

VintageEveryday said:
the button stance and lapel width are (IMO) decent for a mid 30s style sport coat. Many of them seem to have high wide lapels, but the illustrations and period photographs are much more varied than the suits shown on the forums here.

The shoulders do slope downward slightly, as opposed to the structured shoulders of the 30s. (that can be fixed if you want. a tailor can do that, but as I have yet to go to one, I just stuff handkerchiefs or paper towels in the space where my shoulder ends and the armscye begins. )

I've never seen elbow patches on anything before the 1950s, though, and i think they look dorky on what is otherwise a very flattering jacket.
Far more common was the ventless jacket. I've seen several motion pictures from the 30s with belt backs/ center vents, so it WAS done; just not terribly common.

I'm getting a nearly identical sport cost shipped to me pretty soon, and I'm going on and removing the elbow patches. They just look too firmly rooted in the "college professor" 70s as opposed to a 70s-imitating-the-30s style.

all in all, it's a gorgeous jacket, and you wear it so well! I think if you were to time travel and wear it in the 30s, you'd blend right in.

Thank you sir . What would I tell a tailor about the shoulders to fix them ?

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Patrick Hall · Dec 13, 2016

jamesmac1801 said:
Thank you sir . What would I tell a tailor about the shoulders to fix them ?

I'd be very careful about this. Shoulder surgery is one of the most difficult and expensive alterations. I would just live with the natural shoulders, if I were you. If you must get the shoulder reshaped, make absolutely sure that whoever you approach to do the work is beyond competent, otherwise you run the risk of ruining a nice coat.

I actually think (besides the natural shoulders and center vent) it is the lapel that give this away as a modern coat. The height of the gorge, the shallow angle of the notch, and the lean unbellied lapel are tell-tales. But these are quibbles. It fits you well. I wouldn't sink a ton of money into this coat on alterations that are expensive, difficult, and run the risk of marring the coat's appearance. Enjoy it for what it is!

VintageEveryday · Aug 28, 2017

1970s or 1980s camel hair belt back. Action back and pleated patch pockets. One of the nicer ones I've seen that can pass at a distance for a 30s sport coat.

VintageEveryday · Aug 28, 2017

Patrick Hall said:
I'd be very careful about this. Shoulder surgery is one of the most difficult and expensive alterations. I would just live with the natural shoulders, if I were you. If you must get the shoulder reshaped, make absolutely sure that whoever you approach to do the work is beyond competent, otherwise you run the risk of ruining a nice coat.

I actually think (besides the natural shoulders and center vent) it is the lapel that give this away as a modern coat. The height of the gorge, the shallow angle of the notch, and the lean unbellied lapel are tell-tales. But these are quibbles. It fits you well. I wouldn't sink a ton of money into this coat on alterations that are expensive, difficult, and run the risk of marring the coat's appearance. Enjoy it for what it is!

I've seen loads of 30s sport coats with identical lapels, and many of them are on this site. But I agree with the shoulder surgery.

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