Eastman Irvin RAF sheepskin repro sizing

RapidReaper · Nov 28, 2015

Haven't posted to the site before but I've attached 2 pics of a size 44 Eastman I bought secondhand which utilized the "Warhorse" hides. This was my first Eastman Irvin and I loved the fit.
I actually like RiRi zippers and have had them ( both Italian and Swiss ) installed on other jackets and find them to be absolutely bomb-proof. My only criticisms of this jacket was the sleeve length and the teddy bear fleece. It also had that candy coated look like the Irvin pictured above, but the darker color of the jacket offset that a bit.

I'm 5' 10" tall, have 50" shoulders, a 46" chest, weigh 205 lbs., have a 36" waist and a size 44 squared up perfectly. I actually used the exact same measurements of this jacket when I had Jon ( Aces High) make me one of his, except with adding 1" to the sleeves, a 1/2" thru the shoulders and having the jacket "tapered" overall. I've worn vintage A-2's in size 40 that fit perfectly to my tastes ( the streamlined tapered look is what I go for).

The fit above looks to me to be spot on thru the shoulders, about 2 sizes too big through the chest and the sleeves are a little too baggy (and short).

I've attached a few of Jon's Irvin for comparison. My only criticism of Jon's is that the rails on the main zipper are way too short, the box too small and I'm currently waiting to hear back from Jon about having it replaced with his newer model. Jon's skins are perfect- no candy coating, no breaking in the grain and a uniform thickness throughout.

Capesofwrath · Nov 28, 2015

I picked up a twenty - five years old or so almost unworn Eastman BOB a couple of years ago. The buyer was too fat for it apparently and it stayed in his wardrobe all that time until he died. It’s a 44 like the above and it is quite trim in the stomach area for a 44. The hide seems thicker than the modern broken hide ones with a pronounced grain. But the fleece is quite ‘teddy bearish’ and they would have looked like that when new.

The curly fleece which is so much in demand now would have developed over time as the jacket got used and rained on, and in fact I had a Cirrus B3 copy for many years where the fleece had developed just those characteristics. It started out teddy bearish too.

The picture below is from just after I bought the Eastman shown with the well used Cirrus.

Next to that is what looks like a fairly new and quite teddy bearish period original.

heron163 · Nov 28, 2015

mr. rapidreaper:

what do you typically wear under the Irvin? also, my arm length (long) is a bit of concern as there seems to be a fair amount of variability in sleeve length...

John Lever · Nov 28, 2015

RapidReaper said:
Haven't posted to the site before but I've attached 2 pics of a size 44 Eastman I bought secondhand which utilized the "Warhorse" hides. This was my first Eastman Irvin and I loved the fit.
I actually like RiRi zippers and have had them ( both Italian and Swiss ) installed on other jackets and find them to be absolutely bomb-proof. My only criticisms of this jacket was the sleeve length and the teddy bear fleece. It also had that candy coated look like the Irvin pictured above, but the darker color of the jacket offset that a bit.

I'm 5' 10" tall, have 50" shoulders, a 46" chest, weigh 205 lbs., have a 36" waist and a size 44 squared up perfectly. I actually used the exact same measurements of this jacket when I had Jon ( Aces High) make me one of his, except with adding 1" to the sleeves, a 1/2" thru the shoulders and having the jacket "tapered" overall. I've worn vintage A-2's in size 40 that fit perfectly to my tastes ( the streamlined tapered look is what I go for).

The fit above looks to me to be spot on thru the shoulders, about 2 sizes too big through the chest and the sleeves are a little too baggy (and short).

I've attached a few of Jon's Irvin for comparison. My only criticism of Jon's is that the rails on the main zipper are way too short, the box too small and I'm currently waiting to hear back from Jon about having it replaced with his newer model. Jon's skins are perfect- no candy coating, no breaking in the grain and a uniform thickness throughout.

I have owned about 10 of these jackets in the past 20 years of all sizes and quality and the one thing I have learned is that they come up small with short arms. The fit looks ever so slightly tight to my taste. I am a similar build across the shoulders but lighter in weight but still prefer a size 46 to get a really nice grunge fit. My favourite is a size 48.

RapidReaper · Nov 28, 2015

heron163 said:
mr. rapidreaper:

what do you typically wear under the Irvin? also, my arm length (long) is a bit of concern as there seems to be a fair amount of variability in sleeve length...

I live in rural Tn. and even on the coldest of days ( Last winter we had a low near -20 F) ) I only wear a T-shirt. If I'm outside for an hour or more I'll wear a pair of korean war era F-1 flying trousers along with it. Longer sleeves make all the difference definitely.

RapidReaper · Nov 28, 2015

John Lever said:
I have owned about 10 of these jackets in the past 20 years of all sizes and quality and the one thing I have learned is that they come up small with short arms. The fit looks ever so slightly tight to my taste. I am a similar build across the shoulders but lighter in weight but still prefer a size 46 to get a really nice grunge fit. My favourite is a size 48.

I like the grunge fit in canvas / cotton jackets ( navy deck jackets , fishtail parkas, B-11's etc. ) or motorcycle jackets from my punk days

RapidReaper · Nov 28, 2015

Capesofwrath said:
I picked up a twenty - five years old or so almost unworn Eastman BOB a couple of years ago. The buyer was too fat for it apparently and it stayed in his wardrobe all that time until he died. It’s a 44 like the above and it is quite trim in the stomach area for a 44. The hide seems thicker than the modern broken hide ones with a pronounced grain. But the fleece is quite ‘teddy bearish’ and they would have looked like that when new.

The curly fleece which is so much in demand now would have developed over time as the jacket got used and rained on, and in fact I had a Cirrus B3 copy for many years where the fleece had developed just those characteristics. It started out teddy bearish too.

The picture below is from just after I bought the Eastman shown with the well used Cirrus.

Next to that is what looks like a fairly new and quite teddy bearish period original.

View attachment 39484 View attachment 39483

I'd take either of your jackets any day over over most new production ones . I have a few originals, 2 early IAC's, and a mid war I haven't been able to determine the maker of. I'll post some pics when I can find some time- all of them have drop dead gorgeous curly fleece. You're right, I get offers all the time for them.

Smithy · Nov 28, 2015

Capesofwrath said:
Next to that is what looks like a fairly new and quite teddy bearish period original.

That original photo is Mark "Hilly" Brown of 1 Sqn in France in early 1940 with the AASF and is an excellent picture of a fairly newish Irvin. As you mentioned the curl in the fleece develops with use. Hilly's also shows how the jacket was initially intended to be worn by regulations, over shirt and tie and SD. Although Hilly wasn't the tallest fellow and you can also see how he has turned the cuffs up slightly so he can have a fag without singeing his jacket!

Although fit is a subjective thing, I think an Irvin looks best if it is slightly on the large side as opposed to on the trim side. Having it on the larger side where you can fit it over a large jumper (or SD/BD if you're a reenactor) is also more historically correct and IMHO makes for a far more useable and enjoyable jacket to wear.

RapidReaper · Nov 28, 2015

Here's a few pics

Here' a few pics of an awesome " Mk 6 " repro with really nice and tight small patterns of curly fleece. I've seen the "Zip" brand zippers on some german jackets I think but not too sure.

RapidReaper · Nov 28, 2015

Smithy said:
That original photo is Mark "Hilly" Brown of 1 Sqn in France in early 1940 with the AASF and is an excellent picture of a fairly newish Irvin. As you mentioned the curl in the fleece develops with use. Hilly's also shows how the jacket was initially intended to be worn by regulations, over shirt and tie and SD. Although Hilly wasn't the tallest fellow and you can also see how he has turned the cuffs up slightly so he can have a fag without singeing his jacket!

Although fit is a subjective thing, I think an Irvin looks best if it is slightly on the large side as opposed to on the trim side. Having it on the larger side where you can fit it over a large jumper (or SD/BD if you're a reenactor) is also more historically correct and IMHO makes for a far more useable and enjoyable jacket to wear.

Lucky you if you have the good fortune to live somewhere where you can wear your jackets layered, or more than 30 days out of a year. Funny how an Irvin addiction makes a fellow a foul weather enthusiast.

jeepjeep13 · Dec 2, 2017

Anyone know if it's possible to lengthen these jackets? I just got an Aero multi panel for a song and it fits great but it's too short.

Steve27752 · Dec 2, 2017

jeepjeep13 said:
Anyone know if it's possible to lengthen these jackets? I just got an Aero multi panel for a song and it fits great but it's too short.

'Irvin's were designed to be short. The matching trousers would come high up the torso.

Deacon211 · Dec 2, 2017

Hey, just something to keep in mind is that these jackets will "loosen" over time. I'd argue that is particularly true with the Eastman's.

At four years, my BOB Eastman is only starting to fit like it belongs to me and not someone else. So a loose fit may become looser over time as the leather breaks in and the fleece flattens.

Considering that you may have this jacket for 20 years or more (my ELC B-6 is going on 18), you may want to keep the long view in mind.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

jeepjeep13 · Dec 2, 2017

Yea I totally understand that they’re meant to be shorter, but being that im 6’4” and the back measures about 24.5” long, I think it’s too short even for that look.

kowalski · Dec 2, 2017

for comparison, someone can use this size
I have 5'.10 and 165lbs
Eastman size it 44

jeepjeep13 · Dec 4, 2017

Think this is about right then or too short?

John Lever · Dec 4, 2017

If it suits on the waist belt of your trousers then it's about right

jeepjeep13 · Dec 4, 2017

John Lever said:
If it suits on the waist belt of your trousers then it's about right

it does. Maybe I'm just used to my Aviation Leathercraft Irvin being a true "long" size and fitting like a contemporary jacket, so I wanted to make sure it looked okay. Obviously I got this one because I wanted a more authentic look.

morgan3w · Dec 10, 2017

Hi all,

Here are my thoughts and jackets. My Eastman is getting on for 20 years old now and I bought it before the broken grain finish was even a twinkle in Mr Eastman's eye. It's a 42 long, I am 6'2" 40-41" chest (but broad shouldered) with a shorter body than average and longer legs. Initially I thought the jacket was a bit stiff out of the box, but over time, with wear it has relaxed a lot and now fits like a glove. I am happy with the leather too, it is now soft and pliable and has loosened up (stretched?) a lot.

Just be sure of what you want from the jacket, I bought this to wear everyday and get the 'look'. The fleece is just the right thickness to be comfortable enough to wear most of the year. If you want a coat for the snow we are currently having (in the UK), it might be better to consider a larger, thicker fleece offering? I bought an ALC 'irvin' for that purpose, I know the style is all wrong, the proverbial 'teddy bear' with drainpipe arms etc, but on the small holding it fits the bill for me.

Regards

James

Eastman Irvin RAF sheepskin repro sizing

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