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List of different hats from more dressy to less dressy?

F. J.

One of the Regulars
Messages
221
Location
The Magnolia State
Does this seem about right?

1. Homburg

2. Fedora

3. Trilby

4. Bowler

5. Western/cowboy

from casual to formal
Fedora raw edge
Welted edge
Molded edge
Bound edge
Derby
Homberg
Opera Top Hat
Hard Top Hat


In order, from most to least formal:
  1. Top Hat
    • Both hard-shell and collapsible models are the same level of formality, but the former is more versatile as it can be worn both day and night while the latter is reserved for evening wear. Grey top hats are exclusively for morning dress and are slightly less formal than their black counterparts, in much the same way a morning suit is less formal than a morning coat.
  2. Bowler or Homburg
    • Both bowlers and Homburgs are the same level of formality, but bowlers are less versatile as they are traditionally not worn after sunset.
  3. Fedora
  4. Trilby*
  5. Western/Cowboy

*I mean the real ones, of course, and not the silly stitched polyester pinstriped ones.
 
Messages
17,233
Location
Maryland
The old formality standards no longer apply (unless you want to adhere to such standards) and when they were applicable they were somewhat fluid (time period / location / occupation / hat condition/ ect) .
 
Messages
17,233
Location
Maryland
I thought the bowler was extremely casual? Originally an estate keepers "safety" hat?
And when it became a Dress Hat it could have been worn from causal to formal (just below a Top Hat). See my post directly above.

Dress Hats -> Today you are going to see Top Hats worn mostly in Formal settings (but not always). Stiff Felts (Bowler, Derby, Melone, ect) from Casual to Formal. Soft Felts -> Homburgs from Casual to Formal. Snap Brims from Casual to semi Formal (sometimes Formal).
 
Last edited:
Messages
17,233
Location
Maryland
In order, from most to least formal:
  1. Top Hat
    • Both hard-shell and collapsible models are the same level of formality, but the former is more versatile as it can be worn both day and night while the latter is reserved for evening wear. Grey top hats are exclusively for morning dress and are slightly less formal than their black counterparts, in much the same way a morning suit is less formal than a morning coat.
  2. Bowler or Homburg
    • Both bowlers and Homburgs are the same level of formality, but bowlers are less versatile as they are traditionally not worn after sunset.
  3. Fedora
  4. Trilby*
  5. Western/Cowboy

*I mean the real ones, of course, and not the silly stitched polyester pinstriped ones.
The first two assume Formal settings (and the specifics you mention apply to a very small circle today). By the early 1900s Top Hats were rarely worn outside of Formal occasions or were occupational (see Livery, Chimney Sweep, Street Musician, ect). At that time Stiff Felts (Bowler, Derby, Melone) where worn as every day Dress Hats. Same with a Homburg / other Curled Brim Soft Felt Hats. Both (Stiff Felts and Homburg like Curled Brim Soft Felt Hats) at the time could also be worn to a semi Formal - Formal event / occasion (high quality, condition, type dependent) or for a specific occupation (for example a Livery).
 
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Messages
17,233
Location
Maryland
I could be wrong ... but wasn't the "Homburg" originally an outdoor hunting hat ?
The original Homburg Hat was a high quality German Curled Brim Soft Felt Dress Hat that Edward VII brought back from Bad Homburg, Germany. It was made by PH. Möckel Hutfabrik, Homburg vor der Höhe, Hoflieferant Sr. Maj. d. (Seiner Majestät des) Kaisers u.(und) Königs (Official supplier to his Majesty the Emperor & King) und Sr. Maj. d. Königs v. (von) England ("Official supplier to his Majesty the King of England") .

In my opinion this is probably the most accurate history of the Homburg Hat and PH. Möckel Hutfabrik, Homburg vor der Höhe.

http://germanaustrianhats.invisionzone.com/index.php?/topic/14-ph-möckel-hutfabrik-homburg-vor-der-höhe/#entry1764

I actually solved the mystery regarding the high quality Velour Trachten Hat that Edward VII wore at Marienbad (which is confused with Bad Homburg in many accounts, Marienbad is now part of the Czech Republic). This hat was made Anton Pichler Graz.

This memorial of Anton Pichler Graz mentions the Velour Hat worn by Edward VII. I am pretty sure I was the first to discover this. Scroll down to the postcard of Edward VII.

http://germanaustrianhats.invisionz...hler-hutfabrik-josef-pitchler-sohne/#entry958
 
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moontheloon

I'll Lock Up
Messages
8,590
Location
NJ
The original Homburg Hat was a high quality German Curled Brim Soft Felt Dress Hat that Edward VII brought back from Bad Homburg, Germany. It was made by PH. Möckel Hutfabrik, Homburg vor der Höhe, Hoflieferant Sr. Maj. d. (Seiner Majestät des) Kaisers u.(und) Königs (Official supplier to his Majesty the Emperor & King) und Sr. Maj. d. Königs v. (von) England ("Official supplier to his Majesty the King of England") .

In my opinion this is probably the most accurate history of the Homburg Hat and PH. Möckel Hutfabrik, Homburg vor der Höhe.

http://germanaustrianhats.invisionzone.com/index.php?/topic/14-ph-möckel-hutfabrik-homburg-vor-der-höhe/#entry1764

I actually solved the mystery regarding the high quality Velour Trachten Hat that Edward VII wore at Marienbad (which is confused with Bad Homburg in many accounts, Marienbad is now part of the Czech Republic). This hat was made Anton Pichler Graz.

This memorial of Anton Pichler Graz mentions the Velour Hat worn by Edward VII. I am pretty sure I was the first to discover this. Scroll down to the postcard of Edward VII.

http://germanaustrianhats.invisionz...hler-hutfabrik-josef-pitchler-sohne/#entry958
such wonderful information Steve

thank you
 

Mustang Mike's Hats

A-List Customer
Messages
399
Location
Southern California
I was just strollin' through the thread and enjoying the conversation thinking; "I guess all this depends on which part of Texas you live in."

UN-official Texas Ranking
Formal Dress - NEW Cattleman (Color - Silver Belly usually, but heck, it don't REALLY matter none)
Semi-formal - Seldom Wore Cattleman (Color - please see above)
Casual - BEAT UP cattleman (Color - Well... It USED to be a Silver Belly, but I'm not rightly sure anymore!)

Yep, that just about covers it! :p

In all seriousness, I've truly enjoyed the thread and agree with the opinion that to my eye a top hat is the most formal and (I guess if you were going to force me into being REALLY sincere) Western is the most casual.
 

suitedcboy

One Too Many
Messages
1,346
Location
Fort Worth Texas or thereabouts
I contend that the hat's ranking is dependent on what it is worn with. A chimney sweep with a tophat is not formal and tails with a western hat worn to a Texas Gala is highly formal.
We all know that all rules of hat wear were obviously meant to be broken since they are regularly broken and walked on until they are mere dust.
 
Messages
15,237
Location
Somewhere south of crazy
Then there's always this: Casual top hat musician chic...

1hat-e1428260672920.jpg

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prince-top-hat-on-stage.jpg
 

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