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Fit check on Schott Perfecto -- considering going custom made

pac_nw

New in Town
Messages
2
Hello – longtime lurker here. This forum has been an awesome resource for learning about leather jackets and has been a great help to me as I try to get my first one. I’m interested in a lightweight double rider (i.e., perfecto style) that’s toned down a bit -- no belts or epaulets. Based on the general advice from several different threads here, I got an easily returnable “off-the-rack” jacket to use as a fit jacket. It’s a Schott Perfecto, specifically the Raven P213: https://www.schottnyc.com/products/raven-leather-jacket.htm

I’m attaching some fit pics – I’d love some feedback, as I am not quite sure what I should realistically expect from a leather jacket generally and this style in particular. Here are my stats (taken by a tailor) and the jacket’s stats (taken by me).

Me: chest: 40in, waist: 31in, sleeve: 31in (from center of neck), shoulder circumference: 47in (not sure how useful this measurement is), height: 5 ft 9 in, pants inseam: 29in

Jacket: chest: 41in (20.5in pit-to-pit), hem: 38in (19in end-to-end), sleeve length: 25in, shoulder width: 17.5in, length: 25.5in.

image0a.jpeg image1a.jpeg image2a.jpeg image3a.jpeg image4a.jpeg image5a.jpeg

I think the measurements help confirm what is in the fit pics. The sleeves are too long by a couple of inches, and the jacket may be a bit too long in length; however I am more concerned about the waist. It may be hard to tell from the pics (maybe it’s evident from the side profile) but there is some slack at the waist/hem – about 4 inches worth or more. Is it unrealistic to expect more of a “V” shape for this type of jacket? Other similar jackets, such as the Vanson Daredevil and the Aero STF bootlegger, appear to have a similar chest/hem drop (in stock sizes). Should I consider altering a stock size, or perhaps getting a custom fit jacket? I could also possibly size down, but I worry about the shoulders/chest being too tight.

One last thing – I didn’t expect the jacket to “flare” out when open/unzipped as the lapels collapse towards each other and push out the hem, but I presume I shouldn’t expect lightweight leather hold its curve/shape.

Thanks in advance!!
 

jacketjunkie

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,223
Location
Germany
Fit looks spectacular except for the slightly long sleeves. The back shot with the jacket closed (pic #3) shows nice tapering from shoulders down to waist, I don't think any more is necessary, in fact I believe it would look odd if it was skin-tight around the waist. This is a leather jacket, no super hero costume. All my very subjective opinion, ofcourse!

edit; the body's quite long for a perfecto style but I guess that's a matter of personal preference, I like my perfectos an inch or two shorter.
 
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navetsea

I'll Lock Up
Messages
6,711
Location
East Java
it's not a suit jacket you don't wear motorcycle jacket with the end of your shirt's cuff peeking out and it would look worse when the sleeve end is floating around your wrist, much better when it rests on the base of your thumb like that.

as for the body length I think this jacket is not a true representation of a cross zip, I think they make it that way because there is a demand for that style (long cross zip minimalist style) in this case they can't make much taper on the waist since it would turn into a women jacket, but if the jacket is made shorter then obviously it would have more taper "V" look on it because they are worn shorter from the hip
 
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Messages
17,137
Location
Chicago
I actually think this looks pretty damn good for an off the rack purchase! Actually really good. Maybe 1" too long in the torso (not to my eye) but the sleeves are dead on perfect. 2" shorter and it'd be 3/4 length. If you want more abc shape to the jacket it will have to be 2" or so shorter in the body. You wouldn't be able to close it with a drastic taper at the current length.
All said I like this jacket. It's a nice, simple cross zip and I think the hide is a nice black, has a gray tone to it.
 

robrinay

One Too Many
Messages
1,489
Location
Sheffield UK
Good fit imho - The sleeves will shorten with wear. It’s based on a motorcycle jacket and the sleepers are longer to allow for ‘riding up’ while holding the handlebars.
 

ProteinNerd

My Mail is Forwarded Here
Messages
3,890
Location
Sydney
and I thought I was picky with the fit of my jackets lol

Man, this looks great! I think I'd be pretty happy with this fit from a custom order....maybe the sleeves are a touch long but they will crease up a bit and you can always have them shortened if it really bothers you later on...
 

pac_nw

New in Town
Messages
2
Thank you all for your feedback! I appreciate all of your thoughtful responses.

...
as for the body length I think this jacket is not a true representation of a cross zip, I think they make it that way because there is a demand for that style (long cross zip minimalist style) in this case they can't make much taper on the waist since it would turn into a women jacket, but if the jacket is made shorter then obviously it would have more taper "V" look on it because they are worn shorter from the hip

I think this helps reconcile my thoughts about the length and hem. It is a modified perfecto, so it makes sense the extra length will reduce the taper and make the jacket appear differently than other fit pics for "truer" double rider jackets.

Sorry, but the shoulders are odd/ pointy looking to me.

When a guy has good delts and it's a little snug in the upper arm it gets that little pinch in the shoulders....

I noticed this too, but I don't mind it as much. And while I wish I could give the credit to my delts, I think this came from the hanger it was on before I bought it. I bought this from Nordstrom and they had it hanging on a regular shirt hanger -- it aligns with these points. I'll shoot an email to Schott and see if this should be expected to settle with wear, or if it's worth exchanging (I haven't worn it out -- but Nordstrom would accept the return regardless).

Thanks again!! Even if I stay with this jacket/model, I'll need a brown jacket in a year or two so I may bug you all again ;)
 

Bfd70

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,047
Location
Traverse city
Glad to be late to the reply party. From the pictures I thought the fit looked quite good, but am personally inexperienced. You as a long time lurker know that some pretty experienced and exacting fellas have chimed in. Sounds like you've got a keeper.
 

Peacoat

*
Bartender
Messages
6,306
Location
South of Nashville
I agree with the others that the fit is quite good. I prefer my sleeves longer than shorter. These are a bit long, but that is the way I would prefer them, especially for riding. I would do something about the pointy shoulders, though. Best option is to take it back and see if there are any without the points. If not, then you might try, as @handymike said, a steamer or water treatment to work them out.
 

SkyTurtle

Familiar Face
Messages
90
I'll just add my two cents to those already thrown in. For a motorcycle jacket, especially an off-the-rack one, I think it's spot on as is. Sleeves should be a little long for that style jacket. You can cinch the wrist up a bit by going about 3/4 closed on the sleeve zippers. That'll keep the cuffs from swallowing your hands. Length looks good to me. And waist looks fine, too. As someone said, this isn't a suit jacket. And if you get a jacket tailored closely then you're SOL if you want to layer anything like a sweater. Or a few cheeseburgers.
 

threaddicted

New in Town
Messages
28
I realise this thread is over 5 years old. The OP @pac_nw, what happened with the sleeves being pointy? did it get any better?
I'm having a similar issue with a schott jacket just bought, hoping with time it will give and look better.
 

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