Didn’t know about that detail, it actually would bother me personally.
I prefer the zipped sleeves with gussets.
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ELMC J100
- Thread starter ProteinNerd
- Start date
Didn’t know about that detail, it actually would bother me personally.
I prefer the zipped sleeves with gussets.
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ELMC J100 is the only reproduction aside from Himel's that's based on an earlier Buco J100 version. And this one is a more accurate one, in any case. It's just minor details like piping along the sleeve and the main zipper, double stitch lines, etc., but interesting enough that of all the repros that are out there, this is the one I would get if I could.
Superfluous
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Do you wear a watch?
Where is Christian Bale? Has he retired from ELMC?
ProteinNerd
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Yes, watch on one wrist, activity tracker in the other (weird I know...).
I’ve heard people bring up concerns about the metal zip scratching a watch if there is no gusset. I wonder if the piping on the sleeve extends to both sides?
I actually find the gussets get in the way of seeing my watch on jackets with trim sleeves...this may improve it in that regard???
Superfluous
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Without gussets, the zipper will almost certainly damage your watch.
My Chevalier has no gussets and although i didn't like it out of the box (mostly because i never had them before and assumed they would be inferior) i have to say that in real life it makes no difference.
They feel slightly better than gusseted sleeves when closed since you don't have the fold inside the wrist, and they don't bother me in any way when open. (although i can see how they would if i had overly long sleeves)
They might be less functional if you ride, but for walking around, it's a non issue. If anything it's a nice aeration when it is warm.
Saying that, i don't wear watches, but i don't see how a brass zip (soft metal) would scratch a stainless steel watch or a sapphire glass (very hard).
It could probably scratch titanium, but Ti gets scratched just looking at it!
Edit: i just rubbed a zipper on my titanium Tissot Touch for a couple minutes and can't get it to mark... (i take non responsibility if you scratch a fancy watch!)
Last edited:
ProteinNerd
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Regarding scratching a watch, if it’s cold enough to wear a jacket, I would be wearing a long sleeve shirt of some type underneath.
Bfd70
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You’re tearing me apart Jmax!
El Marro
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My Langlitz Cascade has no sleeve gussets and I agree wth Carlos that it really doesn't make a big difference in terms of wearability. I should mention that I do not wear a watch.
I agree with @Carlos840 and @El Marro about the gussets and it's a big plus when the weather is hot.
I like this version and its longer style. It is quite unique compare to all the J100 versions available. I discovered it first on Himel website but the price was a brake then ELMC offered it but they don't customize. If I didn't need custom sizing I would have buy the ELMC.
But I don't regret the Himel one bit, even the jacket being slim fit, it's really confortable to wear.
Oh and happy birthday to my jacket, it's one year old today!!!! LOL!
I like this version and its longer style. It is quite unique compare to all the J100 versions available. I discovered it first on Himel website but the price was a brake then ELMC offered it but they don't customize. If I didn't need custom sizing I would have buy the ELMC.
But I don't regret the Himel one bit, even the jacket being slim fit, it's really confortable to wear.
Oh and happy birthday to my jacket, it's one year old today!!!! LOL!
ProteinNerd
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I thought I’d post up some pics and do a review of sorts seeing as there isn’t much info out there on the ELMC version of the J100.
I have to start out and just say overall how nice this jacket is.
I really like the pattern they use. It works really well for me, just be aware it is a real slim fit. Tagged size 42 it is significantly slimmer throughout than a size 42 ELMC Californian.
42 j100
Chest 22
Shoulder 18.5
Waist 19.5
Sleeve 27
Length 25.25
42 Californian
Chest 23
Shoulder 19.25
Waist 20(synched slightly so can be larger)
Sleeve 26
Length 25
So approximately 1/2 to a full size difference between the 2.
They use the same Italian vegetable tanned aniline leather I believe as they do on the Californian which is great for a lighter weight leather (at least for the average TFL member. I guess technically it’s mid weight. It has really nice grain and starts to break in and develop sleeve creasing quickly.
The lining is described as an EndZone twill, it feels and is as smooth as Sateen which makes it very easy to slip on and off but doesn’t do much for warmth so definitely a milder weather jacket (unlike the ELMC Windward and Roadstar which have more significant liners).
To me the lining looks and feels exactly the same as the Californians lining which is listed as 100% Rayon satin so maybe it’s just a different name for the same thing?
The stitching is incredibly even and tighter to the edges than any Aero I’ve had and is easily on par with my Flat Head jacket if that’s important to you, it’s not really to me. Interestingly the stitching is tighter to the edges than the Californian. I just put it down to pattern differences.
There are a few differences between the various J100s I’ve had, Aero and Diamond Dave.
The collar is definitely taller than the other versions I’ve handled.
It has double rows of stitching (which I quite like) and the zippers all have a lip (if that’s the right term)
but I guess the major one is no zipper gussets in the sleeve zippers. Again I quite like this difference and I can actually see my watch a lot easier than on jackets with tight forearms that do have gussets. No scratching on my watch yet as I wear long sleeve shirts that cover the watch.
All in all a great jacket. If you don’t need customisation and this fits, you couldn’t go wrong for a mild weather jacket.
I have to start out and just say overall how nice this jacket is.
I really like the pattern they use. It works really well for me, just be aware it is a real slim fit. Tagged size 42 it is significantly slimmer throughout than a size 42 ELMC Californian.
42 j100
Chest 22
Shoulder 18.5
Waist 19.5
Sleeve 27
Length 25.25
42 Californian
Chest 23
Shoulder 19.25
Waist 20(synched slightly so can be larger)
Sleeve 26
Length 25
So approximately 1/2 to a full size difference between the 2.
They use the same Italian vegetable tanned aniline leather I believe as they do on the Californian which is great for a lighter weight leather (at least for the average TFL member. I guess technically it’s mid weight. It has really nice grain and starts to break in and develop sleeve creasing quickly.
The lining is described as an EndZone twill, it feels and is as smooth as Sateen which makes it very easy to slip on and off but doesn’t do much for warmth so definitely a milder weather jacket (unlike the ELMC Windward and Roadstar which have more significant liners).
To me the lining looks and feels exactly the same as the Californians lining which is listed as 100% Rayon satin so maybe it’s just a different name for the same thing?
The stitching is incredibly even and tighter to the edges than any Aero I’ve had and is easily on par with my Flat Head jacket if that’s important to you, it’s not really to me. Interestingly the stitching is tighter to the edges than the Californian. I just put it down to pattern differences.
There are a few differences between the various J100s I’ve had, Aero and Diamond Dave.
The collar is definitely taller than the other versions I’ve handled.
It has double rows of stitching (which I quite like) and the zippers all have a lip (if that’s the right term)
but I guess the major one is no zipper gussets in the sleeve zippers. Again I quite like this difference and I can actually see my watch a lot easier than on jackets with tight forearms that do have gussets. No scratching on my watch yet as I wear long sleeve shirts that cover the watch.
All in all a great jacket. If you don’t need customisation and this fits, you couldn’t go wrong for a mild weather jacket.
ProteinNerd
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I think they do it because the collar is taller than a typical cafe racer collar, I copied it when I noticed how tall it was and I think it looks better.
Superfluous
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Great review PN. I really like the details and top stitching on that jacket.
sweetfights
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Fits your shoulders perfectly, which I find often is a challenge in cafe racers. Perfect length in the sleeves and body too. I believe you will be mentioning this jacket in your will!I thought I’d post up some pics and do a review of sorts seeing as there isn’t much info out there on the ELMC version of the J100.
I have to start out and just say overall how nice this jacket is.
I really like the pattern they use. It works really well for me, just be aware it is a real slim fit. Tagged size 42 it is significantly slimmer throughout than a size 42 ELMC Californian.
42 j100
Chest 22
Shoulder 18.5
Waist 19.5
Sleeve 27
Length 25.25
42 Californian
Chest 23
Shoulder 19.25
Waist 20(synched slightly so can be larger)
Sleeve 26
Length 25
So approximately 1/2 to a full size difference between the 2.
They use the same Italian vegetable tanned aniline leather I believe as they do on the Californian which is great for a lighter weight leather (at least for the average TFL member. I guess technically it’s mid weight. It has really nice grain and starts to break in and develop sleeve creasing quickly.
The lining is described as an EndZone twill, it feels and is as smooth as Sateen which makes it very easy to slip on and off but doesn’t do much for warmth so definitely a milder weather jacket (unlike the ELMC Windward and Roadstar which have more significant liners).
To me the lining looks and feels exactly the same as the Californians lining which is listed as 100% Rayon satin so maybe it’s just a different name for the same thing?
The stitching is incredibly even and tighter to the edges than any Aero I’ve had and is easily on par with my Flat Head jacket if that’s important to you, it’s not really to me. Interestingly the stitching is tighter to the edges than the Californian. I just put it down to pattern differences.
There are a few differences between the various J100s I’ve had, Aero and Diamond Dave.
The collar is definitely taller than the other versions I’ve handled.
It has double rows of stitching (which I quite like) and the zippers all have a lip (if that’s the right term)
but I guess the major one is no zipper gussets in the sleeve zippers. Again I quite like this difference and I can actually see my watch a lot easier than on jackets with tight forearms that do have gussets. No scratching on my watch yet as I wear long sleeve shirts that cover the watch.
All in all a great jacket. If you don’t need customisation and this fits, you couldn’t go wrong for a mild weather jacket.
Congrats!
dan_t
Practically Family
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Great write up Martin. I for one appreciate it when people do take the time to share these details.
Plus it looks KILLER on you!!!
Might have to consider one of these in the future rotation.
Plus it looks KILLER on you!!!
Might have to consider one of these in the future rotation.
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