14 CLASSIC SUMMER SPORTS JACKETS! c. 38 - 44. NWT Madras, Bespoke, Orvis Half-Belt, Vintage, more!

tweedydon · May 19, 2018

I have several WONDERFUL summer jackets to pass along today... with lots more on the way!

As always, I offer FREE SHIPPING ON EVERYTHING with the US; International inquiries are very welcome, with shipping at reduced cost!

Also as always, ALL OFFERS ARE VERY WELCOME!

Please PM with interest and offers!

1) WONDERFUL VINTAGE 1960s Madras Sack jacket by h.i.s.!

"h.i.s." is one of the best-known menswear labels produced by Honesdale Manufacturing, a company founded by Harvey I. Siegal in 1923. Headquartered in New York but with its manufacturing plants in Tennessee, Honesdale originally focused on clothes, especially denim, for men and boys. Much of its output was sold as own-brand clothing by stores such as Penney's and Montgomery Ward. (Remember, this was the era when clothing from Department stores was actually still *good*!)

In 1949 the firm was taken over by Harvey's son, Jesse, who started to move it away from its utilitarian, Depression-era focus and towards more fashionable clothing. In 1956 Jesse started the label "h.i.s"--an obvious reference to his father's initials.

The h.i.s. label was a runaway success, with much of its items being modeled on the increasingly popular Ivy Style of clothing. By 1964 Honesdale's revenue was a whopping $64 million a year, with over 3/4 of that being generated by the h.i.s. brand.

The company went public in 1962, with Jesse retaining a controlling interest. In 1976 he took the firm private again, in part to deflect objections to his decision to focus on the women's wear part of the business which was booming with the success of "h.i.s. for Her" jeans. In 1984 the company was subject to a leveraged buy-out by its management, who turned its attention back to its roots--manufacturing basic denim products. The company is still in business as "Chic for HIS", and is now one of the largest jeans manufacturers in the US.

This jacket hails from the 1960s heyday of h.i.s., when it focused on collegiate Ivy style. Cut from gossamer-light Indian madras fabric that's a wonderful classic medly of blues, creams, and sepia summer yellows, this jacket is as a sack--judging by the lapel likely a 3 button sack, rather than a 3/2. it is clearly designed to be worn at the height of summer--not only is the madras fabric some of the lightest I've ever encountered, but it's quarter-lined... and has only one interior pocket, to ensure that the additional material needed to support two interior pockets could be left out making this jacket even lighter-weight.

It has a single center vent, classic two button cuffs, and was made in one of h.i.s. three factories in Tennessee. It has extremely natural shoulders. The golden decoration around the h.i.s. logo in the interior is a clear nod to the mirror filigree logo of Chipp, and indicates the aspirations that h.i.s. and its customers had!

This wonderful piece of sartorial history is in excellent condition, and utterly wearable. It's a bargain at just $49, or offer, boxed and shipped in the USA. International inquiries welcome, with shipping at reduced cost!

Please PM with interest and offers!

Measurements:

Chest: 20 1/4
Sleeve: 26 (+2)
Shoulder: 18 1/2
Length: 32

tweedydon · May 19, 2018

2) WONDERFUL BROOKS BROTHERS SUMMER TARTAN JACKET! C.42, 43. MADE IN THE USA!

This is absolutely beautiful! Although there is no fabric content listed this is clearly a very high-quality cotton; light enough to be comfortable, yet heavy enough to be suitable or a jacket. And the tartan is wonderful--greens, dusk-blues, and whites set of with pale yellow striping, this is a classic Scottish tartan very similar to Dress Gordon.

The jacket is cut as a contemporary two button jacket with very subtle darts. It is half-canvassed and fully lined in a complementary dark blue lining. It has three button cuffs and a single center vent. It was Made in the USA, and is in absolutely excellent condition!

Asking just $49 or offer, boxed and shipped in the USA. International inquiries welcome-please PM with interest and offers!

Tagged 43L, this measures:

Chest: 21 1/2
Sleeve: 26 1/2 (1)
Shoulder: 19 7/8
Length: 32 3/4

3) Classic Vintage Brooks Brothers "Wash and Wear" Jacket in Rare Pattern!

This jacket is absolutely lovely. Judging by the interior label (yellow block letters on a white background) this dates from the late 1960s--although you'd never guess this from its condition! Cut as a two button sack this is made from "Wash and Wear" fabric--the staple cloth of Ivy Style clothing in the 1960s. Usually, "Wash and Wear" jackets and suits were solid colours, and so this is highly unusual in that it features a beautiful multi-coloured overcheck (in red, yellow, green,and light blue) on light blazer-blue base.

This jacket features a single center vent, the classic American two button cuff, and a half-lining. Wonderfully lightweight, this is an absolutely perfect summer blazer, suitable for both casual settings and the modern office. It does have a couple of very minor scuffs, as shown, but these are hard to find and will hardly be seen when worn. It was, of course, Made in the USA, and is in Very Good/Excellent condition.

Asking just $35, or offer, boxed and shipped in the USA. International inquires are welcome, with shipping at reduced cost!

Please PM with interest and offers!

Tagged 45R, this measures:

Chest: 22 1/4
Sleeve: 24 3/4 (+ 13/4)
Shoulder: 19
Length: 30 1/2

tweedydon · May 19, 2018

4) NWT ABSOLUTELY GORGEOUS Madras 3/2 Jacket with Three Patch Pockets from Polo by Ralph Lauren!

This jacket comes complete with its original tags, but since they are not attached this is being sold as "New, Without Tags".

Made for the British market this beautiful jacket was originally sold by Harvey Nichols of Knightsbridge, London, one of the most upscale stores in the city, catering to the upper-middle-class Sloane Rangers of Chelsea, Knightsbridge, and the Home Counties.

Given this provenance this jacket is absolutely beautiful. Cut from a wonderful traditional madras cotton plaid in blues and creams with sepia orange-pink accent stripes this jacket is cut as a 3/2 jacket with subtle darts and a lovely fluid lapel roll. It features a patch breast pocket and two lower flapped pockets. It has wonderfully slim 60s-inspired lapelsfour button cuffs, and a single vent. It is half-lined in the same fabric as the exterior shell, and beautifully unstructured.

As you'd expect for a jacket that was tried on precisely once and comes complete with its original tags this is in absolutely excellent condition!

It originally retailed for around $275.... so how about just $65, or offer, boxed and shipped in the USA?

International inquiries are welcome, with shipping at reduced cost.

Please PM with interest and offers!

Size M. Measurements:

Chest: 19 1/4
Sleeve: 26 5/ 16 (+1 1/2)
Shoulder: 18 1/2
Length: 30 1/8

5) UTTERLY IVY! A wonderful jacket (likely silk and linen) in pale pink herringbone, by Oakloom Clothes of Baltimore, MD!

UTTERLY IVY! A wonderful jacket (likely silk and linen) in pale pink herringbone, by Oakloom Clothes of Baltimore, MD!

Oakloom Clothes had an unusual business model--they declined to advertise, considering this to be "vulgar", and relied on the quality of their clothing to speak for itself. No doubt this reticence kept Oakloom from the success that it deserved, for the quality of their clothing was first-rate. They made clothes for Paul Stuart, Bullock & Jones of San Francisco, and Maus and Hoffman in Palm Beach, FL. They specialized in classic, Ivy Style clothing, and this was continued when they were bought out in 1995 by Hartz & Co who wanted to use them as an entry into "the better part of the upper market".

This jacket shows just why Oakloom were so beloved by the few familiar with their clothing. This jacket is cut from a wonderful pale pink and cream herringbone cloth that's likely a blend of linen and silk. The herringbone is accented with vertical stripes in pale green, blue, and sunset gold. The jacket is cut as a contemporary two button jacket with subtle darts. It is half-canvassed and fully lined in cream.

It has a single center vent. Union made in the USA, this is in excellent condition.

Asking just $29, or offer, boxed and shipped in the USA. International inquiries welcome!

Please PM with interest and offers!

Measurements:

Chest: 20 3/4
Sleeve: 22 3/4 (+2 1/4)
Shoulder: 18
Length: 30 1/2

tweedydon · May 19, 2018

6) Jacket from Josef A. Borg, the tailor who worked on the menswear for *Sunset Boulevard*...

....and went on to be THE tailor for the Ivy set of Princeton!

All hand-tailored, and cut from Zegna cloth.

Josef A. Borg was born in Malta, and before the Second World War ran a very successful business tailoring uniforms for the officers of the British Royal Navy. After the war he emigrated to the United States, where his tailoring skills took him to Hollywood to work under the great costume Edith Head, winner of no less than EIGHT Academy Awards for her costumes.

Edith specialized in costuming female leads, but also designed the clothes worn by William Holden. (Interesting, the other male lead, Erich von Stroheim, wore his own clothes.) Naturally, as a designer she didn't make the clothes herself--and hired Josef to work on those worn by the male stars. Thus, while Edith was designing the costumes for Gloria Swanson in *Sunset Boulevard* (based on 1940s Dior designs) Josef was working on cutting, and sewing those for William Holden.

But Josef didn't just want to dress film stars--and he missed running his own tailoring business. So, despite the success of *Sunset Boulevard* he moved from California to the East Coast, attracted to a new style of tailoring that was taking off there--the Anglophilia "Ivy League" look, pioneered by the Princeton tailor Norman Hilton and the retail tailor's Langrock.

As a former tailor to the Royal Navy and the tailor to the classic American film *Sunset Boulevard* the combination of these looks into "The Natural Shoulder Ivy League Style" was a natural for Josef, and he settled into tailoring on Palmer Square in Princeton. Although he didn't only tailor Ivy Style clothing, Borg's work was always utterly classic--and absolutely first rate. (Unlike many tailors, Borg did all of his work himself--by hand.) A piece by Borg was something to be cherished--and something that was exceptionally rare, since his work was all his own.

I'm thus delighted to offer this beautiful jacket by Josef A. Borg of Princeton--hand-tailored by Josef himself.

Tailored in 2006, this was one of the very last jackets that Josef made prior to his death in 2011. Beautifully cut from Zegna cloth that appears to be a blend of silk and linen (or, perhaps, is pure silk alone) the patterning and colourway of this jacket are exquisite--a classic herringbone in light brown and cream. This jacket has a standard two-button front with a single center vent. It has four buttons cuffs with faux buttonholes and two flapped front pockets with lapped seams at the top of the flaps. It is, of course, fully canvassed and fully lined, and has a single center vent. The entire jacket is hand-made, including the hand-stitched buttonholes and the hand-stitched padding under the arms in the lining. It was, of course, made in the USA. More precisely, it was made in Princeton, NJ!

This jacket was worn very sparingly by its original owner--an executive Vice President or a major marketing company--who treasured it. It is thus is almost mint condition.
This is a very, very rare opportunity indeed to own not only a superbly hand-tailored jacket from one of America's premier tailors, but an item that has a direct connection to *Sunset Boulevard*, one of America's premier movies!

As such, this is a bargain at just $115, OR OFFER, boxed, shipped, and insured in the USA.

International inquiries welcome, with shipping at cost!

Measurements:

Chest: 21 1/2
Sleeve: 25 (+1)
Shoulder: 19 1/2
Length: 31 1/2

tweedydon · May 19, 2018

7) CLASSIC LIGHTWEIGHT BRITISH GUNCHECK; MADE IN THE UK AND PERFECT FOR SUMMER C.38, 40L

This is a lovely example of a classic British jacket, tailored from a lighter mid-weight wool in a traditional guncheck patterning of forest green, bark brown, and peat black on a tan base. The jacket is a contemporary two button model with darting--standard on almost any British country jacket!--and features twin vents. It is fully lined and appears to be half-canvassed. It was originally sold by that stalwart store of the conservative British middle class, Marks & Spencer. It was Made in the UK, and given its classic good looks, weight, and guncheck colouring this would be perfect for Summer and early Fall

It's in excellent condition, and is a bargain at just $40, or offer.

Tagged 40L, but runs slightly smaller. Measurements:

Chest: 20
Sleeve: 26 (+2)
Shoulder: 18 1/4
Length: 30 1/2

8) JUST $45! NOS ORVIS SAFARI TRAVEL FABRIC HALF-BELT JACKET. C. 40R.

This is absolutely wonderful! Cut from 100% cotton, this jacket is New Old Stock with its original tags attached, announcing it as being cut from Orvis' Safari Travel fabric.

This jacket is simply packet with features! Cut as a two button sack--appropriately, since a more form-fitting jacket would be inappropriate in the climates this is designed for--this features two deep flapped demi-bellows pockets on the front, a VERY deep passport/wallet pocket cut as a ticket pocket on the left-hand side, and a breast pocket.

(A demi-bellows pocket is affixed at the outer edge like a regular pocket, with additional bellows fabric at the edge nearer the placket. This provides the extra carrying ability of a bellows pocket while retaining the drape of the jacket when the pockets are full.)

It also features a corduroy collar in cream, wide-spaced cuff buttons indicating that this is a functional rather than a formal jacket. On the back it features a reinforced straight shoulder yoke for added durability, a beautifully stitched half-belt, and a bi-swing back for ease of movement. It also features a single center hook vent.

The interior is half-lined--and lined at the belt--and features a full complement of interior pockets, including a zippered security pocket. This jacket is half-canvassed. It is, of course, in perfect condition--as you'd expect from a new jacket!

Asking just $45 for this beautiful jacket, perfect for Summer!

Tagged 40R. Measurements:

Chest: 20 1/2
Sleeve: 25 1/2 (+1 1/2)
Shoulder: 18
Length: 30

tweedydon · May 19, 2018

9) A BEAUTIFUL ISAIA JACKET!

Cut from cloth that's a lovely blend of wool, silk, and linen, this beautiful jacket is a wonderful light brown with cream pinstriping--the perfect colourway for Spring and early summer, especially given its Neapolitan heritage!

Cut as a contemporary two button jacket with subtle darting, this is fully canvassed, and fully lined in ISAIA's signature lining. This jacket has a twin vent, and features fully functional three--button surgeon's cuffs. It also features extensive handwork, not only on the buttonholes but also on the placket, the lapels, and in the lining. It was, of course, made in Casalnouvo, just outside Naples, Italy. It is is absolutely beautiful condition.

Asking just $65, boxed and shipped in the USA.

Tagged EU6 (US46) this measures:

Chest: 23 1/2
Sleeve: 24 1/2 (+2)
Shoulder: 19
Length: 30 1/4

10) PRINCETON UNIVERSITY STORE SILK GLEN PLAID JACKET. C. 40. MADE IN THE USA. JUST $25!

Although there is no fabric content listed this is clearly either all silk, or a silk-wool blend. Cut as a three button jacket with subtle darting this has four button cuffs and a single centre vent. Owing to its high silk content is has a lovely slubby texture which is well suited to the classic bold glen plaid patterning in black, slate grey, and cream, with forest green and golden sunset overchecking. This jacket was Made in the USA, and was originally sold at the Princeton University Store. This is in excellent condition (the interior label will be resewn before shipping) and is a bargain at

just $25, or offer.

Measurements:

Chest: 21
Sleeve: 26 (+1 3/4)
Shoulder: 19 1/2
Length: 32

tweedydon · May 19, 2018

11) BEAUTIFUL Alan Royce of Princeton Seafoam Jacket

Alan Royce was one of the Big Five Princeton clothiers during the Golden Age of Ivy Style, and this jacket shows why. First, the colour is absolutely beautiful--the perfect summer shade of seafoam blue-green; my pictures don't do this justice at all!

Although there is no fabric content listed, it's either lightweight silk, or a blend of silk and linen; it's has a wonderful hand and drape, as is woven as a subtle broken bone herringbone. Cut as a contemporary two button jacket with subtle darts, this is half-canvassed and fully lined. It has four button cuffs and a single centre vent. It was, of course, Made in the USA. It does have one small flaw; a very faint shadow stain on the top left lapel, as shown. As such, this is just in Very Good condition, and is only $29, or offer.

Measurements:

Chest: 21 1/2
Sleeve: 24 3/4 (+2 1/4)
Shoulder: 18 3/4
Length: 30 1/2

12) Lovely Custom Made Salmon Jacket by Aficinando Clothiers--made for Ken Bradt!

This was originally made for the banker Ken Bradt, the great-great-grandson of Louis Clarke, the founder of Autocar Company--now the oldest surviving motor vehicle company in North America!

This is a lovely jacket! Cut from a lovely light salmon cloth this jacket is half-canvassed and fully lined. It features lots of handwork throughout, especially on the lapels and the placket and on the pocket flaps. It is a contemporary two button front model with subtle darting. It includes fully functional surgeon's cuffs, and a twin vent. It is in excellent condition.

Asking just $35, or offer, boxed and shipped in the USA.

Measurements:

Chest: 22
Sleeve: 25 (1 1/2)
Shoulder: 19 5/8
Length: 30 1/8

tweedydon · May 19, 2018

13) NWT ALAN FLUSSER SILK JACKET WITH GORGEOUS LILAC LINING. PICK STITCHING THROUGHOUT! C.44R

This is a lovely jacket, and would be wonderful for Summer! Cut from pure silk, this jacket is a contemporary two button front model with darting. It has a single center vent, and a wonderful lining in pale lilac pink; the lining features pick stitching throughout. This jacket has three button cuffs and a single center vent. This jacket was an uncollected alteration--the sleeves were taken up--and so is new and unworn; it retains its original boutonniere tag. and all of the pockets are still basted shut, as is the vent. This is thus in excellent condition. Imported--just as the catalogues would say!

Asking just $25, or offer, boxed and shipped in the USA.

Tagged 44R. Measurements:

Chest: 22 1/2
Sleeve: 23 1/2 (+1 1/2)
Shoulder: 20
Length: 31 1/8

14) Lovely Bespoke Summer jacket--with working surgeon's cuffs!

This is lovely, and perfect for three seasons--the only one it might not be good for is Winter, but that's mainly because of its colouring!

Although this jacket doesn't carry any labels it is clearly bespoke, and likely from an American tailor judging both by the quality and the unlikelihood that an Asian tailor would omit labeling his work.

Cut from a lighter mid-weight cloth that would be appropriate for summer office wear the colouring and patterning of this jacket are lovely; a slate-blue base with miniature overchecking in Royal blue and mottled black, with larger windowpane overchecking in russet and bracken.

This is cut as a contemporary two button jacket with darts, and features a twin vent. It is half-canvassed and fully lined, and features the always-desirable working surgeons' cuffs, with four functional buttonholes on each sleeve. This jacket is in absolutely excellent condition, and a bargain at just $35, or offer, boxed and shipped in the USA.

Measurements:

Chest: 22 7/8
Sleeve: 22 (+2)
Shoulder: 20 5/8
Length: 29 1/2

tweedydon · May 20, 2018

Thanks to marmalademan for noting the problem these posts were having owing to the new background options! To see the text in the "white" background version of FL please hit the lightbulb icon to the top right of your screen!

tweedydon · May 20, 2018

#8, the NOS Orvis, has sold.

tweedydon · May 27, 2018

BUMP!

tweedydon · May 29, 2018

Photobucket is being especially worthless, and isn't showing some pictures when it should. To see then just cluck on the annoying kitten picture as they do exist and can be seen that way!

tweedydon · Jun 17, 2018

3, 9, `13, and 14 are sold.

OFFERS WELCOME ON EVERYTHING!

14 CLASSIC SUMMER SPORTS JACKETS! c. 38 - 44. NWT Madras, Bespoke, Orvis Half-Belt, Vintage, more!

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