Want to buy or sell something? Check the classifieds
  • The Fedora Lounge is supported in part by commission earning affiliate links sitewide. Please support us by using them. You may learn more here.

The Bowler or Derby Hat

Erikhel

New in Town
Messages
9
Morning all. Been following this eminent forum for some time and very slowly starting to build up a modest collection of my own. This one I’m quite fond of. Size 59, made by Christys for legendary (and now long gone) Swedish clothing company MEA. Excellent condition, no idea how old. Now I really, really would like to get my hands on a Dunn Perfectus. Got one on Ebay, just holding it was sensational - but unfortunately it was way too small.

41776463_1402400573223480_8681501585353736192_n.jpg
41833331_317492615467310_7065972421764841472_n.jpg
41747981_2144166769243440_4485178521227886592_n.jpg
41878353_277698056396692_3812665751676911616_n.jpg
41921949_235335747139501_1284140147138363392_n.jpg
41765472_291915941621776_8698130925629734912_n.jpg
41811596_307366360049027_6270681011261014016_n.jpg
 
Messages
17,890
Location
Nederland
Morning all. Been following this eminent forum for some time and very slowly starting to build up a modest collection of my own. This one I’m quite fond of. Size 59, made by Christys for legendary (and now long gone) Swedish clothing company MEA. Excellent condition, no idea how old. Now I really, really would like to get my hands on a Dunn Perfectus. Got one on Ebay, just holding it was sensational - but unfortunately it was way too small.

View attachment 135662 View attachment 135663 View attachment 135664 View attachment 135665 View attachment 135666 View attachment 135667 View attachment 135668
Welcome to the lounge, Erik. A fine example of English hatmaking from its heyday by the looks of it. Christys' these days does not come anywhere near that quality. I'm looking forward to your other hats already.
 
Messages
12,384
Location
Albany Oregon
I have been wanting a gray stiff felt for a while now, Stefan came through for me. This Dunn & Co. appears to be of recent manufacture, but it is quite nice. The lines are typically British, tight brim curl and a square, straight crown. Even though it is marked as a 58, it is very small. Doing some major stretching, but I think it will come around. This will be one great Bowler for a gray/navy suit this winter.

21Sep18 Dunn gray Bowler profile 450x.jpg
21Sep18 Dunn gray Bowler Front profile 450x.jpg
21Sep18 Dunn gray Bowler top 450x.jpg
21Sep18 Dunn gray Bowler liner 450x.jpg
21Sep18 Dunn gray Bowler sweat 450x.jpg
21Sep18 Gray Dunn Bowler side 500x.jpg
 

Erikhel

New in Town
Messages
9
Morning! A Stetson made in and bought from Canada. The plastic brylcreem protector and logo dates it to mid/late fifties, right? Very good condition but with an unfortunate dent on the ”forehead”. I prefer lower crowns myself, but maybe these higher ones just takes some time getting used to. Would it be correct to say that British bowlers generally have lower crowns than their American derby cousins?
 

Attachments

  • 42666104_1905523072865079_1412546453674393600_n.jpg
    42666104_1905523072865079_1412546453674393600_n.jpg
    860.1 KB · Views: 129
  • 42717658_1850305165006150_3031876521586327552_n.jpg
    42717658_1850305165006150_3031876521586327552_n.jpg
    919.1 KB · Views: 126
  • 42694058_485564921926272_5865859770719666176_n.jpg
    42694058_485564921926272_5865859770719666176_n.jpg
    676.9 KB · Views: 134
  • 42647560_249548515762344_7070159516662235136_n.jpg
    42647560_249548515762344_7070159516662235136_n.jpg
    720.7 KB · Views: 129
  • 42803084_296525967604047_6265469738462216192_n.jpg
    42803084_296525967604047_6265469738462216192_n.jpg
    771.4 KB · Views: 120
  • 42727126_1925280494218061_5476268016058499072_n.jpg
    42727126_1925280494218061_5476268016058499072_n.jpg
    1 MB · Views: 118
  • 42530352_2174878412784499_6081259261151674368_n.jpg
    42530352_2174878412784499_6081259261151674368_n.jpg
    1.4 MB · Views: 166
  • 42648317_163811147856917_3694494489646202880_n.jpg
    42648317_163811147856917_3694494489646202880_n.jpg
    268.6 KB · Views: 158
Messages
12,384
Location
Albany Oregon
Morning! A Stetson made in and bought from Canada. The plastic brylcreem protector and logo dates it to mid/late fifties, right? Very good condition but with an unfortunate dent on the ”forehead”. I prefer lower crowns myself, but maybe these higher ones just takes some time getting used to. Would it be correct to say that British bowlers generally have lower crowns than their American derby cousins?
The lines of a bowler (English) or a derby (American) vary by the styles of the day more than geographic location. It is possible to find a match on either side of the pond. That being said, if you read through this rather long thread you will see some similarities, usually in crown height/shape and the tightness of the brim curl. Over the 150+ years of this style just about any variation you can imagine has been in vogue. Welcome to the lounge.
 
Messages
17,890
Location
Nederland
Morning! A Stetson made in and bought from Canada. The plastic brylcreem protector and logo dates it to mid/late fifties, right? Very good condition but with an unfortunate dent on the ”forehead”. I prefer lower crowns myself, but maybe these higher ones just takes some time getting used to. Would it be correct to say that British bowlers generally have lower crowns than their American derby cousins?
Nice find, Erik. Good looking hat. From the pictures however I doubt that this is actually a bowler. The slight indentation that can be seen on the second picture, the ribbon and bow and the liner make me think this is an open crown homburg hat. I think you could easily put a center dent in that felt. A good thing in my book: I love homburgs.
+1 on what Mike said.
 

Erikhel

New in Town
Messages
9
Steur – this is exactly why you should always hang out with the very best. What a game changer! All it took was the mildest of karate chops on the crown – and voilá, a homburg! You were so right! When I saw it it was obvious, but I never would have guessed. Thanks a lot!

And also to you, Redfokker. Actually, I have read through the whole thread, starting in July. Seeing all the beautiful pics and reading the expert comments like yours is actually one of the main reasons my distanced interest in bowlers have spun a bit out of control. Waiting for a 60's Dunn from somewhere in England as we speak. My only grief is they don't suit me that well, to be honest, but I suppose it's first and foremost a question of attitude and attitudes can always be worked on :)
 
Messages
17,890
Location
Nederland
Steur – this is exactly why you should always hang out with the very best. What a game changer! All it took was the mildest of karate chops on the crown – and voilá, a homburg! You were so right! When I saw it it was obvious, but I never would have guessed. Thanks a lot!

And also to you, Redfokker. Actually, I have read through the whole thread, starting in July. Seeing all the beautiful pics and reading the expert comments like yours is actually one of the main reasons my distanced interest in bowlers have spun a bit out of control. Waiting for a 60's Dunn from somewhere in England as we speak. My only grief is they don't suit me that well, to be honest, but I suppose it's first and foremost a question of attitude and attitudes can always be worked on :)
Well, there you go, Erik. It happens more often than you think and I have landed a few hats for a low price that way. Demand for bowlers is not high and they usually sell for low prices. If you can spot if a hat is in fact not a bowler then you might get lucky. Bowlers do deserve more praise however, because the craftsmanship that goes into them is incredible.
 

Steve1857

I'll Lock Up
Messages
8,353
Location
Denmark
Well, there you go, Erik. It happens more often than you think and I have landed a few hats for a low price that way. Demand for bowlers is not high and they usually sell for low prices. If you can spot if a hat is in fact not a bowler then you might get lucky. Bowlers do deserve more praise however, because the craftsmanship that goes into them is incredible.
+ 1 on that Stefan. Bowlers have sadly gone out of "fashion". Let us bowler lovers try and bring it back.

Sent from my HUAWEI VNS-L31 using Tapatalk
 

Steve1857

I'll Lock Up
Messages
8,353
Location
Denmark
I posted this one, which I picked up at the local, weekly flea market here in Elsinore, Denmark, a month or so ago in the New Hats forum, but forgot to post it here. I'm now making amends for my oversight.

A magnificent example of Moores & Sons craftmanship. Created at their Denton factory, Manchester, made "expressly" for Magasin du Nord (the Harrods of Copenhagen and even more exclusive then than now) probably in the 1920s or 1930s. It's a very solid, heavy bowler with a hat liner that is a joy to behold.

I wondered what the term "Vacuum Fitting" meant, but soon found out once I put the bowler on. The wide and thick leather sweat band seems to expand thus fitting the hat tightly to the head. Not in an uncomfortable way though. This leads me to surmise that the P.C. who ordered it needed this particular feature because he didn't want his bowler to easily fall off. Copenhagen and its environs are not particularly windy, so this suggests to me that it was used while out horse riding.

Whatever its history, and oh if only hats could talk, I am so pleased it is now in my collection and looking forward to wearing it outdoors sometime soon.
 

Attachments

  • FL 1.jpg
    FL 1.jpg
    1.3 MB · Views: 267
  • FL 2.jpg
    FL 2.jpg
    1.3 MB · Views: 256
  • FL 3.jpg
    FL 3.jpg
    1.7 MB · Views: 264
  • FL 4.jpg
    FL 4.jpg
    908.1 KB · Views: 258
  • FL 5.jpg
    FL 5.jpg
    288.3 KB · Views: 255
  • FL 6.jpg
    FL 6.jpg
    425 KB · Views: 259
  • FL 7.jpg
    FL 7.jpg
    902.5 KB · Views: 264
Messages
17,890
Location
Nederland
I posted this one, which I picked up at the local, weekly flea market here in Elsinore, Denmark, a month or so ago in the New Hats forum, but forgot to post it here. I'm now making amends for my oversight.

A magnificent example of Moores & Sons craftmanship. Created at their Denton factory, Manchester, made "expressly" for Magasin du Nord (the Harrods of Copenhagen and even more exclusive then than now) probably in the 1920s or 1930s. It's a very solid, heavy bowler with a hat liner that is a joy to behold.

I wondered what the term "Vacuum Fitting" meant, but soon found out once I put the bowler on. The wide and thick leather sweat band seems to expand thus fitting the hat tightly to the head. Not in an uncomfortable way though. This leads me to surmise that the P.C. who ordered it needed this particular feature because he didn't want his bowler to easily fall off. Copenhagen and its environs are not particularly windy, so this suggests to me that it was used while out horse riding.

Whatever its history, and oh if only hats could talk, I am so pleased it is now in my collection and looking forward to wearing it outdoors sometime soon.
I seem to have missed this one before. It's a great hat, Steve, and from an excellent English maker too. Moores did make great hats.
 
Messages
17,890
Location
Nederland
Probably my favourite hat for the time being. Dunn & Co, pristine condition, any estimate of age would be most welcome. Previous owner: A Mr. Foskett of Bradford, Yorkshire. Proper gentleman, I'm sure.


View attachment 139092 View attachment 139093 View attachment 139094 View attachment 139095 View attachment 139096 View attachment 139097
Looks pristine, Erik. Nice find. Not a very early one, because it doesn't have the G.A. in front of the Dunn name. My guess would be early to mid sixties for this one. Dunn kept using quite elaborate liners even in their later hats.
 
Messages
12,384
Location
Albany Oregon
Looks pristine, Erik. Nice find. Not a very early one, because it doesn't have the G.A. in front of the Dunn name. My guess would be early to mid sixties for this one. Dunn kept using quite elaborate liners even in their later hats.
It would be an interesting study to look at the evolution of Dunn & Co. logos. My new gray bowler has a different look than this one does.
 
Messages
17,890
Location
Nederland
It would be an interesting study to look at the evolution of Dunn & Co. logos. My new gray bowler has a different look than this one does.
Dunn&Co seem to have had a wide variety of liners. The one in your bowler is the same as my Dunn homburg which dates from the seventies, except for the red side.
 

Steve1857

I'll Lock Up
Messages
8,353
Location
Denmark
Nice band and colour, gives it that South American bowler hat look. It seems though that this hat has had a dent and pinches, so perhaps not so bowler hat.
I made the hat band for this. It says the maker is "Internationally Famed". Nice hat, but never heard of them. View attachment 139936 View attachment 139937

Sent from my HUAWEI VNS-L31 using Tapatalk
 

Forum statistics

Threads
107,201
Messages
3,030,779
Members
52,674
Latest member
leatherpatch
Top