Questions About the United States Navy Peacoat

Gamma68 · Aug 6, 2018

I recently picked up a WWII peacoat with some lining tears at the collar.

It needed dry cleaning, but due to some miscommunication at the dry cleaners, they never did the job.

So I decided to clean it myself. I only lightly sprayed it in sections using a mix of water/Ivory soap, blotted it dry and allowed any damp areas to air dry. No sections were soaked or anything like that. The coat now feels much cleaner and smells lust musty.

The coat seemed to fit nicely (snug but not uncomfortable) before the cleaning. However, it now feels very snug at the chest/waist. I took out my tape measure and was surprised to see the chest now measures 19.5" instead of the 20" pre-cleaning. It also looks like I lost about .5" in the sleeve length. I'm usually very particular about how I measure my coats/jackets and don't get odd variations like this over time.

This might be an odd question, but is it possible that by hand-cleaning my coat, I inadvertently shrunk it slightly?

This doesn't seem possible, because these coats were made to get wet in the elements. Or maybe I've gained some weight over the past few weeks?

Peacoat · Aug 7, 2018

I wouldn't think what you did would cause the coat to shrink. And yes, the coats would frequently get wet. They offer rain protection in a light rain, but after a deluge, they will allow water to get inside.

Gamma68 · Aug 7, 2018

My measurements must've been off. Or it was all those hot dogs and burgers I've had at the family BBQs lately.

moehawk · Oct 17, 2018

Hey all!
Found a peacoat at a thrift store today, not sure if it's issue or civilian repro. My instinct says civilian. Definitely of more modern make. So, the question is, did Jay Dee Sportswear ever have a government contract?
Thanks.

moehawk · Oct 17, 2018

Here's a pic of the label, inside of the inner pocket.

Sorry for the bad pic.

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Peacoat · Oct 17, 2018

Yes, Jay Dee sportswear was a government contractor, and I think it still is. Have never seen that tag with the Jay Dee name on it on a peacoat, though.

This is a legitimate Navy issue peacoat. Even though this is a pre 1980 coat, it is a Melton coat and not the Kersey wool shell that is so desirable. Notice the tag for the shell information.

I would be interested in knowing if there is an insulated lining in the coat. It should be behind the standard rayon lining next to body of the wearer. It will be about 1/8" thick and noticeable to probing fingers

moehawk · Oct 17, 2018

Peacoat said:
Yes, Jay Dee sportswear was a government contractor, and I think it still is. Have never seen that tag with the Jay Dee name on it on a peacoat, though.

This is a legitimate Navy issue peacoat. Even though this is a pre 1980 coat, it is a Melton coat and not the Kersey wool shell that is so desirable. Notice the tag for the shell information.

I would be interested in knowing if there is an insulated lining in the coat. It should be behind the standard rayon lining next to body of the wearer. It will be about 1/8" thick and noticeable to probing fingers

Thanks for the info! Cool that it is a real one.
Yes, it does have an insulated lining. It also has gold tone buttons. I did notice right away that the wool shell felt a lot different than my '66 Coast Guard peacoat. The tag just confirmed that it wasn't the better stuff. The fit also seems a little diferent than the older one too.

Spoonbelly · Oct 18, 2018

Peacoat said:
Yes, Jay Dee sportswear was a government contractor, and I think it still is. Have never seen that tag with the Jay Dee name on it on a peacoat, though.

This is a legitimate Navy issue peacoat. Even though this is a pre 1980 coat, it is a Melton coat and not the Kersey wool shell that is so desirable. Notice the tag for the shell information.

I would be interested in knowing if there is an insulated lining in the coat. It should be behind the standard rayon lining next to body of the wearer. It will be about 1/8" thick and noticeable to probing fingers

Peacoat - Was wondering - what year is the last Kersey. I thought that it was 1972? Also if I remember correctly the first few years of Melton coats were a dark blue color and not black? Do you know what year they started to make the coats in black Melton?

Peacoat · Oct 18, 2018

Spoonbelly said:
Peacoat - Was wondering - what year is the last Kersey. I thought that it was 1972? Also if I remember correctly the first few years of Melton coats were a dark blue color and not black? Do you know what year they started to make the coats in black Melton?

The last year for the Kersey was 1979. Sterlingwear says the material color is actually a very dark blue and not black. It looks black to me. I just took one of my Melton coats outside in the sunlight. I can see no blue in the fabric.

This particular coat is a 1980 Vi Mil, which was the name Sterlingwear used for its military contracts back then. As 1980 was the first year for the Melton fabric, this was one of the first peacoats produced using that fabric.

So to answer your question as to the color, evidently the coats have appeared black from the beginning. I have another current issue Sterlingwear from the 90s that also appears black. But I bow to Sterlingwear's expertise in knowing the the color it uses in its garments. If it says blue, then blue it is.

Doctor Damage · Oct 18, 2018

Peacoat said:
The last year for the Kersey was 1979. Sterlingwear says the material color is actually a very dark blue and not black. It looks black to me. I just took one of my Melton coats outside in the sunlight. I can see no blue in the fabric.

This particular coat is a 1980 Vi Mil, which was the name Sterlingwear used for its military contracts back then. As 1980 was the first year for the Melton fabric, this was one of the first peacoats produced using that fabric.

So to answer your question as to the color, evidently the coats have appeared black from the beginning. I have another current issue Sterlingwear from the 90s that also appears black. But I bow to Sterlingwear's expertise in knowing the the color it uses in its garments. If it says blue, then blue it is.

No, you're right. There's no blue in it. Calling the cloth blue is just a historical legacy thing which shows up from time to time in clothing. The clothing industry is run through with weird terminology and labeling.

moehawk · Oct 18, 2018

Figured I'd post pics of the outside of the Jay Dee to go with the label shot.

Now to brush off all the fence dust...

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Peacoat · Oct 19, 2018

That is actually a Reefer, a peacoat once worn by officers. They can still wear them, as can Chiefs, but most wear the Bridgecoat, a longer version of the peacoat. The officers would have their rank on shoulder boards attached to the top of the shoulder on both the peacoat and the bridge coat. Golden colored buttons are used instead of the black fouled anchor buttons. Chiefs wear no rank on their bridge coats.

There is no structural difference between the peacoat and the reefer.

moehawk · Oct 19, 2018

Peacoat said:
That is actually a Reefer, a peacoat once worn by officers. They can still wear them, as can Chiefs, but most wear the Bridgecoat, a longer version of the peacoat. The officers would have their rank on shoulder boards attached to the top of the shoulder on both the peacoat and the bridge coat. Golden colored buttons are used instead of the black fouled anchor buttons. Chiefs wear no rank on their bridge coats.

There is no structural difference between the peacoat and the reefer.

Well, living in the Emerald Triangle, a Reefer sounds way cooler than a Peacoat...

All kidding aside, thanks again for sharing that information. Just out of curiosity, were the reefers usually called peacoats on the tag like this one or should it have been labeled differently?

Peacoat · Oct 19, 2018

The "reefer" would have the same tag as the peacoat. It is the same coat, except for the loops on the shoulders and the gold buttons. The clothing regulations refer to it as a reefer. I have no idea where or why it got that name.

That is a nice coat; do it a favor and take it to the dry cleaners.

votan · Oct 19, 2018

aboard ship a "reefer" is a freezer.

Peacoat · Oct 19, 2018

votan said:
aboard ship a "reefer" is a freezer.

Does the reefer (freezer) on the ship relate to reefer peacoat?

Michael A · Oct 19, 2018

A reefer is the unlucky sot that had to climb up in the rigging and reef the sails during bad blows. Hence the need for a short, stout coat.

Peacoat · Oct 19, 2018

Michael A said:
A reefer is the unlucky sot that had to climb up in the rigging and reef the sails during bad blows. Hence the need for a short, stout coat.

I doubt that duty would be given to an officer, though.

There is a reason why an officer's peacoat was called a reefer. And it is referred to as such in the regulations, so it isn't a name that just popped up. We just haven't come up with a good explanation.

votan · Oct 20, 2018

i don't know what it was like back when "ships were made of wood and men were made of iron" but when I was in the navy in the 80s the usual reefer coat was the green navy deck jacket. if you were on a working party and loading stores you wouldn't want the buttons ripped off your pea coat or have it stained by something leaking.

Peacoat · Oct 20, 2018

votan said:
i don't know what it was like back when "ships were made of wood and men were made of iron" but when I was in the navy in the 80s the usual reefer coat was the green navy deck jacket. if you were on a working party and loading stores you wouldn't want the buttons ripped off your pea coat or have it stained by something leaking.

Yes, the peacoat was a dress coat. I don't think it started out that way, but over time it evolved. Deck jackets were used for work parties, of which there were many in the the Navy, as I understand it.

The non—impermeable, green deck jacket was a warm jacket. I have one. The impermeable, green deck jacket was also warm, as well as being water resistant. I have one of those as well that I use for chores around the farm when it is snowing or cold and raining.

While the deck jacket may have been referred to informally as a "reefer" jacket, the regulations don't refer to it as such. That honor is reserved for peacoats worn by officers. Still unresolved is why they were given that designation.

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