Help out an Aero newbie

ProteinNerd · Apr 11, 2019

Dbrn said:
@ProteinNerd I've wondered about that Premier Fit. Given El Marro's point, I wonder if maybe I should avoid that as potentially being too slim and not V enough. Thoughts?

I have a 41.5 inch chest and a 31/32 inch waist and it fits me pretty close. I guess it depends on what your definition of a V taper is as to whether this is or isn’t V shaped enough for you.

Sloan1874 · Apr 11, 2019

Aero does offer goat in a few shades. If I recall, there was at least one Bootlegger on here made of it. Looked very cool.

handymike · Apr 11, 2019

Here it is:
https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/new-aero-bootlegger-premier-in-russet-goatskin.80085/

jacketjunkie · Apr 11, 2019

Hello Dan,

there is only one way to achieve a "v-look" and that is with a jacket that

a) has relatively wide shoulders
b)has a very strong taper from chest to waist and
c) is fairly short. Because, you see, your body is broad at the chest, narrow at the waist and down from there only gets broader again down to the hip bones.

Therefore I would advice a style that has broad shoulders, a backlength of about 24" and a strong taper from chest to waist. The HH is one of Aeros later styles and I believe these are cut with rather narrow shoulders and a slim silhouette which fits slim all through the body but not so much tapered. Like 21" chest and 19" diameter at the hem in a size 38-40 I believe, so only a 2" drop.

Aeros Motorcycle jackets (don't know about the new Indian Ranger pattern in particular whether they updated the fit or only details) are cut shorter and with massive drops from chest to waist. I believe I have seen Biker jackets by Aero which had like 24" chest and 18" at the bottom hem, so a very massive drop compared to the HH.

Here's what you should do having settled on Aero:
Make up your mind whether you truly want a fairly short 24" backlength jacket, if yes go for the biker style and get the v-shape you want. If no, go for the longer and slimmer HH but live with less of a v-shape.

Here's what I would do:
Get a Custom Johnson Leather Crosszip instead (superior range of motion, fully customizable in fit and details, wide shoulders and good taper in general, they give you that v-shape biker look)

or look out for a used Hercules/Oakbrook/Leather Shop D-Pocket on eBay (the style that inspired the Aero King of the Road). Those have wide shoulders and a crazy chest to waist drop, short but with a front drop so they cover the belt at the front.

handymike · Apr 11, 2019

The 1950s Hercules D-pockets are the bomb!

Edward · Apr 11, 2019

Best thing to do is look at the website, decide what sort of features you want, then talk to Aero about what will get you there with the sort of fit you fancy. My Bootlegger was my first Aero, and I love it still. Got my eye on a Hooch Hauler too.

El Marro said:
The Bootlegger is a roomier cut, similar to the 50’s halfbelt, while the Hooch Hauler is slimmer. If I were looking for a jacket with a V shape I would choose the Bootlegger because I think you have more freedom to go big up top and taper down to a narrower waist. It’s harder to achieve this look with a jacket that is meant to be trim throughout.

The Bootlegger will fit exactly like a 50s HB, because the pattern is a 50s HB, just with a redesigned front. The HH, I believe, is pattered after one of the slimmer-fitting, pre-war HBs.

Zebedee,
I agree with almost everything you have ever posted but I have to disagree with you on your suggestion for the Highwayman as a first Aero. My first Aero was a brown CXL steerhide Highwayman and it is one of the few jackets that I have sold or moved on. You are absolutely right about the leather being amazing, but this is one of the harder styles to get the fit just right on, especially if you are new to this. My Highwayman was tight in the shoulders and blousy and loose from there on down I have seen some awesome fits in this model (nick123 and Dav in particular) but I think it’s a tough one to get right.

The standard Highwayman was initially based on a late 50s jacket by Rivetts of Leytonstone, however Ken, in discussion with that first client, decided to make it a bit boxier than the original, more in keeping with the 50s American jackets that were popular on the scene in the early 80s. The Original 59er version of the Highwayman is an exact repop of that Rivetts jacket (also the model after which the Lewis Corsair and Dominator models were styled; Highwayman as a brands owned by rival at a time after they bought over their competitor, Rivetts of Leytonstone, though I have yet to discover when this was. All I know is that the Highwayman straight zip model was in production around 1958; Lewis introduced their straight-zip collared models in 1962). The 59er version would be the one to go for if you want something a little neater; slimmer again, and I'd be looking at the Premier Fit 30s Highwayman.

Dbrn · Apr 11, 2019

Thanks to all the great advice I'm getting, my thinking has changed somewhat and I'm now focusing on a Bootlegger, possibly with a drop-size adjustment. While I still love the look of the Hooch Hauler in photos, I'm feeling confident that the Bootlegger is more in-line with I want to end up with. Haven't pulled the trigger yet, but definitely getting closer...

@AeroFan_07 Thanks, I really am enjoying the process! So I'm definitely at least a little nuts

@El Marro I asked Holly at Aero about drop-sizing. Hope she doesn't get sick of me just yet...

@Sloan1874 Goat's not offered in the Aero dropdown of leather types for the jackets I'm interested in, but maybe that's not definitive? I'll add it to my discussion with Holly.

@jacketjunkie Thanks for the detailed suggestions! I see your point about the biker jacket as the best way to get a strong V. At this point I think that might be a little too aggressive for me, to the point where I'd feel uncomfortable. Right now I'm leaning toward a Bootlegger as a kind of compromise. I checked out the Johnson Leather and it wasn't quite what I'm after, but hadn't seen it before and appreciate the new knowledge!

@Edward Thanks for the historical context. It's blowing my mind how much history is wrapped into this particular obsession!

jacketjunkie · Apr 11, 2019

Dbrn said:
Thanks to all the great advice I'm getting, my thinking has changed somewhat and I'm now focusing on a Bootlegger, possibly with a drop-size adjustment. While I still love the look of the Hooch Hauler in photos, I'm feeling confident that the Bootlegger is more in-line with I want to end up with. Haven't pulled the trigger yet, but definitely getting closer...

@AeroFan_07 Thanks, I really am enjoying the process! So I'm definitely at least a little nuts

@El Marro I asked Holly at Aero about drop-sizing. Hope she doesn't get sick of me just yet...

@Sloan1874 Goat's not offered in the Aero dropdown of leather types for the jackets I'm interested in, but maybe that's not definitive? I'll add it to my discussion with Holly.

@jacketjunkie Thanks for the detailed suggestions! I see your point about the biker jacket as the best way to get a strong V. At this point I think that might be a little too aggressive for me, to the point where I'd feel uncomfortable. Right now I'm leaning toward a Bootlegger as a kind of compromise. I checked out the Johnson Leather and it wasn't quite what I'm after, but hadn't seen it before and appreciate the new knowledge!

@Edward Thanks for the historical context. It's blowing my mind how much history is wrapped into this particular obsession!

I received a new Bootlegger two weeks ago. It has a very strong taper as is, don't think you need any additional work done there. My size 38 has 23" ptp and like 19" at the bottom hem, so a 4" drop. I am 5'9" 180 lbs and while its roomy in the chest, it's as tight as it gets at the bottom. Couldnt get it zipped up if it was any tighter down there.

Sloan1874 · Apr 11, 2019

Dbrn said:
@Sloan1874 Goat's not offered in the Aero dropdown of leather types for the jackets I'm interested in, but maybe that's not definitive? I'll add it to my discussion with Holly.

I would always ask about available leathers. The website options do not always reflect all the options and combinations of offer.

Dbrn · Apr 12, 2019

jacketjunkie said:
I received a new Bootlegger two weeks ago. It has a very strong taper as is, don't think you need any additional work done there. My size 38 has 23" ptp and like 19" at the bottom hem, so a 4" drop. I am 5'9" 180 lbs and while its roomy in the chest, it's as tight as it gets at the bottom. Couldnt get it zipped up if it was any tighter down there.

That's super-helpful JJ, thank you! I assume you mean the chest is appropriately roomy, not like too big?

Any chance of some pics? I assumed you posted some when you got your new Precious, but couldn't find anything with the FL Search... I would really love to see how it looks on you zipped and unzipped, since we may have similar frames!

Dbrn · Apr 12, 2019

Follow-up question for any fellow Canadians around: I'm trying to decide between ordering from Aero or from Bison Trading in Vancouver. On one hand, the help I've been getting from Holly at Aero has been great, whereas I've gotten less information from Max at Bison (not a criticism, just a description); that makes me want to give my business to Aero. On the other hand, according to my rough math, I'd be paying a $200-300 premium dealing with Aero. That is, if I assume I'll get dinged with full 18% customs duties. So that's another question for canucks: do we usually get dinged with those full duties?

jacketjunkie · Apr 12, 2019

Dbrn said:
That's super-helpful JJ, thank you! I assume you mean the chest is appropriately roomy, not like too big?

Any chance of some pics? I assumed you posted some when you got your new Precious, but couldn't find anything with the FL Search... I would really love to see how it looks on you zipped and unzipped, since we may have similar frames!

Here you are. I tucked in my sweatshirt in the open jacket shot to better show how long the jacket wears relatively to my jeans (a standard mall 32/32 cheapo, medium to low rise). I am 176 cm tall, jackets backlength is 65 cm.

Dbrn · Apr 12, 2019

jacketjunkie said:
Here you are. I tucked in my sweatshirt in the open jacket shot to better show how long the jacket wears relatively to my jeans (a standard mall 32/32 cheapo, medium to low rise). I am 176 cm tall, jackets backlength is 65 cm.

View attachment 164530
View attachment 164531

Thanks JJ, looking very sharp! I hope you're happy with your purchase so far!

coloradorider · Apr 12, 2019

ProteinNerd said:
I have a 41.5 inch chest and a 31/32 inch waist and it fits me pretty close. I guess it depends on what your definition of a V taper is as to whether this is or isn’t V shaped enough for you.

A 10" drop (congrats proteinnerd) versus Dbrn's 5" drop is super significant. If you're going for 1-2" of space in the belly/waist I'd agree with most of the individuals indicating you should deal with Aero on the pattern so you don't end up with too much or too little jacket in one place or the other. I don't think you'll have to adjust too much depending on the style you go with.

Good luck. My only advice is to go for the style/look you want and let Aero help you with the fit.

Canuck Panda · Apr 12, 2019

I find the measurements of the same size in same style can vary quite a bit from all online sources; this is why I just email and ask Aero for the measurements of the style/size I was looking for.

Dbrn said:
Follow-up question for any fellow Canadians around: I'm trying to decide between ordering from Aero or from Bison Trading in Vancouver. On one hand, the help I've been getting from Holly at Aero has been great, whereas I've gotten less information from Max at Bison (not a criticism, just a description); that makes me want to give my business to Aero. On the other hand, according to my rough math, I'd be paying a $200-300 premium dealing with Aero. That is, if I assume I'll get dinged with full 18% customs duties. So that's another question for canucks: do we usually get dinged with those full duties?

No, because of EU CETA, there is no duty for goods made and origins from EU. The only time I got screwed with the 18% duty is when the goods transferred through the carrier's American hub; in this case, you can file for refund.

The shipments I have received from Aero so far all came directly to YVR from LHR so only 12% HST was charged. This means its the best possible deal around, for me, in Vancouver.

Dbrn · Apr 12, 2019

coloradorider said:
A 10" drop (congrats proteinnerd) versus Dbrn's 5" drop is super significant. If you're going for 1-2" of space in the belly/waist I'd agree with most of the individuals indicating you should deal with Aero on the pattern so you don't end up with too much or too little jacket in one place or the other. I don't think you'll have to adjust too much depending on the style you go with.

Good luck. My only advice is to go for the style/look you want and let Aero help you with the fit.

Thanks coloradorider, that's a good point (wish I had those dimensions

). I'm pretty convinced more back and forth with Aero is what I need to do here.

Dbrn · Apr 12, 2019

Canuck Panda said:
I find the measurements of the same size in same style can vary quite a bit from all online sources; this is why I just email and ask Aero for the measurements of the style/size I was looking for.

No, because of EU CETA, there is no duty for goods made and origins from EU. The only time I got screwed with the 18% duty is when the goods transferred through the carrier's American hub; in this case, you can file for refund.

The shipments I have received from Aero so far all came directly to YVR from LHR so only 12% HST was charged. This means its the best possible deal around, for me, in Vancouver.

That's great news, thanks CP! And I'm in AB, so my deal will be even better at just 5% GST

I thought I'd seen another post on here saying that Aero doesn't usually give out its jacket measurements. But if you've gotten them in the past, I'll certainly ask.

Canuck Panda · Apr 12, 2019

Dbrn said:
That's great news, thanks CP! And I'm in AB, so my deal will be even better at just 5% GST

I thought I'd seen another post on here saying that Aero doesn't usually give out its jacket measurements. But if you've gotten them in the past, I'll certainly ask.

Well...When you look at it from the supplier's perspective it make sense for them to hesitant when giving measurements...especially when its thick material that is hard to work with.
On Aero's website it clearly says the tolerance is half inch; the way i understand this is plus or minus half an inch - this means its the spread of one inch. Aero is not Bespoke, but a lot better than what I can get at this price point, comparatively.
5% that is low...Perhaps that's why most of the exotic cars in town has the AB plates...

El Marro · Apr 13, 2019

Dbrn said:
I thought I'd seen another post on here saying that Aero doesn't usually give out its jacket measurements.

I have never heard of them posting or providing jacket measurements for any of their models. What I have seen from looking at the Aero sales page and the classifieds here is an incredible variation of measurements in the same labeled size of the same model of jacket. I think in part that is because Aero is making many of these jackets based on measurements provided by their customers. I think the take away here is that you need to share your measurements and how you want the jacket to fit and count on them to get the sizing right for you. Most of the time they do exceedingly well at this

Radz108 · Apr 13, 2019

Dbrn said:
Follow-up question for any fellow Canadians around: I'm trying to decide between ordering from Aero or from Bison Trading in Vancouver. On one hand, the help I've been getting from Holly at Aero has been great, whereas I've gotten less information from Max at Bison (not a criticism, just a description); that makes me want to give my business to Aero. On the other hand, according to my rough math, I'd be paying a $200-300 premium dealing with Aero. That is, if I assume I'll get dinged with full 18% customs duties. So that's another question for canucks: do we usually get dinged with those full duties?

I recently ordered a modified Hooch Hauler from Carrie at Thurston Bros. This is the 6th jacket I purchased from Carrie. The service is outstanding and she and Wade really know their stuff regarding fit and styles. I think you should seriously consider going through Thurston Bros. For comparison, the Hooch Hauler (HH) in Bison trading is listed at $1499 Canadian. My modified Hooch Hauler (HH) through Thurston Bros was $1144 US which is $1525 Canadian (based on conversion). My duties and taxes are $50 Canadian to be paid once I receive the jacket. So the difference is less than $100 Canadian. In addition, the HH price in Bison Trading is just the basic HH with CXL leather and the standard lining - If you get a Tartan lining or add modifications, the price will go up. My HH has a Tartan lining with a coin pocket and throat latch as mods. Also Thurston Bros offers a fit jacket service to customize the fit (albeit addition payment).
FYI my experience with customs/duties is about $50 for an Aero Jacket in CXL leather ordered through Thurston Bros. I found Aero jackets made with Vicenza leather, the duties can go up to $130. My guess is that CXL is made in the US and thus falls under NAFTA and thus lower duties. Vicenza is made in Italy and thus commands more duties/taxes (just my observation with my previous purchases.)

Radz

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