Simply about leathers

• May 13, 2019

• #21

feltfan

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Yawn. As we can see at Horween, tanning can be done to our standards. It's not tanning per se, but environmental regulations and labor laws (therefore, economics) that makes the difference. If you're buying leather tanned in the USA (as many of us are) the story is quite different.

I don't buy Chinese or most other foreign-made leather goods for these reasons and because you never know what animal the skin comes from or which political prisoner or child made it.

That said, the article does not reflect a lot of knowledge. Did they mention the amount of bird poop used in tanning in places like Morocco? Did they mention child labor? Most of the issues around leather are issues around everything made in countries with lax labor and environmental laws. Don't buy from them.

Bartender edit: Please remember and observe the 'no politics' rule. While "politics" is a broad animal and we exercise discretion, in thi context you can assume that reasoned discussion of ethical considerationd about how our leather is produced is acceptable, but bringing partisan US politics into the mix is not. Thank-you all.

 

Last edited by a moderator: May 13, 2019

• May 13, 2019

• #22

oneterrifichog

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Nuff said! Now back to simply leather. One of the first jackets I purchased on this damn near 20 year quest for the whatever perfect leather jacket was an Orvis motorcycle jacket along the line of an Aero Highwayman. It was made in China and the leather was thick and the lining was nice and comfortable. Not Lambskin but anybody's guess as to type of leather. Maybe steer but after a week wearing outside in the sun it began to smell like Piss and Gasoline. It had a leather smell but it just did not sit right. Fortunately I found Aero Leather and Lost Worlds and soon replaced it with a Highwayman in Horse never to return to Chinese leather again. I have come across Steer from Turkey and Pakistani leather as well and there is nothing like Horween in my opinion. As to wearing leather I intend to keep doing it.

This is one that is similar I found on the bay; maybe it's changed since then.

 

Last edited: May 13, 2019

• May 13, 2019

• #23

feltfan

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I will say I have a side bag tanned and made in Marrakesh from dromedary leather. I bought it some 15 years ago and it still smells like the bird poop and noxious chemicals used in those tanning vats. So that's another reason to proceed with caution. Mind you, it looks great and I still use it. But if I had a jacket made of that stuff, no one would sit next to me on the subway.

 

Last edited by a moderator: May 13, 2019

• May 13, 2019

• #24

Big J

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We here in the west share some responsibility for whatever is happening elsewhere in the world.
For example, we gave postwar Japan an image of our society and life. That's part of the reason they obsessed over US flight jackets and workwear. How sustainable is it for the world's two most populous nations to follow suit and try to emulate a simulacra of an imaginary 1950's American suburban life with white picket fences, electrical appliances and two car families? Probably not very.
I didn't see that as a political point, just economics and culture.

 

Last edited by a moderator: May 13, 2019

• May 13, 2019

• #25

Seb Lucas

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Big J said:

We here in the west share some responsibility for whatever is happening elsewhere in the world.
For example, we gave postwar Japan an image of our society and life. That's part of the reason they obsessed over US flight jackets and workwear. How sustainable is it for the world's two most populous nations to follow suit and try to emulate a simulacra of an imaginary 1950's American suburban life with white picket fences, electrical appliances and two car families? Probably not very.
I didn't see that as a political point, just economics and culture.

Click to expand...

Agree although I'm fairly certain that economics and culture are always shaped (sometimes radically so) by a political context which limits or nurtures both.

It often interests me how this hobby brings unlikely people together.

 

Last edited: May 13, 2019

• May 13, 2019

• #26

Brettafett

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Quite interesting... and a little depressing. But its the same story with so many things in this 'modern' world though.
If we all (the entire world) stopped buying leather goods, they would find somethings else to do to make a living from (an exploit?)... There are always 'sides' and grey areas... We may have the luxury of an opinion, but many of these people just want to make a living... Thanks for posting!

 

• May 14, 2019

• #27

feltfan

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For those of you who somehow have not come across Moroccan dromedary leather, here's what it looks like after around 15 years (pretty much what it looked like on day one).

 

• May 14, 2019

• #28

G

Goel

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Big J said:

How sustainable is it for the world's two most populous nations to follow suit and try to emulate a simulacra of an imaginary 1950's American suburban life with white picket fences, electrical appliances and two car families?

Click to expand...

Thankfully, Japan had the foresight to ignore that part in favor of transit and walkable cities...

 

• May 14, 2019

• #29

navetsea

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Err... i just want to say my leather jackets dont smell like piss or birdshit.

 

• May 14, 2019

• #30

Rich22

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I’ve been to the tanneries in Fez too- those workers probably suffer more ailments from walking knee deep in pigeon shit than the folks in the unregulated chromium tanning facilities in the developing world. When you visit they pass you a handful of mint to hold in front of your nose to mask the dreadful smell! The quality of leather goods I found very disappointing there. Even if there’s some nice leather produced the quality of the finishing on 99% of the stuff there was diabolical. My ex and my friends bought a few things and it all fell apart remarkably fast.

 

• May 14, 2019

• #31

oneterrifichog

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navetsea said:

Err... i just want to say my leather jackets dont smell like piss or birdshit.

Click to expand...

I would add that the jacket I purchased was the first version over several years of the Orvis motorcycle jacket. The company may have changed the manufacturer as the later ones (like the one in the photo) had the lighter affect on the seams; mine was much darker. They may have sourced another tannery for future productions as well.
I would add that this was a very subjective comment on my part and there may well be very reputable leather manufacturers in all of these countries. The article struck a noxious memory and I thought I would mention it.
I hope for the sake of these workers that the companies mentioned in the article change but I would imagine the only way that will happen will be from a concerted effort on the part of the workers as well as progressive government officials to solve the issues.