Tabletop Hatters of The Lounge

Hat and Rehat · May 10, 2019

I've been looking online for pleated hat bands. It seems nothing particularly aimed at vintage straw hats is even offered, other than a few standard paisleys on linen.
A lot of tropical flowers, some polka dots, a couple of patterns from exotic places that make you think of hats, dark colored cigarettes, and intrigue, but not the bold colors on rich fabrics that you'd like to see.

Sometimes you just need to take matters in hand yourself.

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ChicagoWayVito · May 21, 2019

I just finished a hat for my oldest daughter.

Here are the specs:

Quality: 100% Beaver
Color: Black
Bash: Teardrop
Open Crown Height: 6 inches
Front Crown Height: 5 inches
Rear Crown height: 3 3/4 inches
Front to Back Rake: 1 1/4 inches
Hat Band: 1930s 1 1/2 inch Purple grosgrain
Brim: 2 1/4 inches
Brim Binding: 7/8 inch vintage black grosgrain
Extras: Handmade liner, handmade wind trolley using matching ribbon, handmade hat pin (made by Art Jewelery for You https://www.amazon.com/Art-Jewelry-For-You/dp/B015G3M8X2)

The hat pin is the only thing that I did not make.

humanshoes · May 21, 2019

That's a beaut CWV. Excellent work. I'm curious, did you use your machine for the binding?

ChicagoWayVito · May 21, 2019

humanshoes said:
That's a beaut CWV. Excellent work. I'm curious, did you use your machine for the binding?

Thank you Rick! I appreciate the compliment coming from you.

I wanted to use my 108w20 and the binding attachment but I couldn't as the woven edge of this ribbon was super fine and the attachment wouldn't hold the ribbon in place. It requires a slightly more stout woven edge so the top and bottom tines and ride along and add some tension. So I did this utilizing the closed loop method and used my trusty Bernina 830 Record sewing machine to "stitch in the ditch" (as close to the edge as I could pull off. Worked great.

The hat pin I think is great although I think that the bottom jewel is too big and without it, it would have laid flatter against the felt. My daughter really loves her hat. I consulted with her ever step of the way. The brim is a bit stingy for my liking but she loves it. She has already put in another order.

humanshoes · May 22, 2019

ChicagoWayVito said:
Thank you Rick! I appreciate the compliment coming from you.

I wanted to use my 108w20 and the binding attachment but I couldn't as the woven edge of this ribbon was super fine and the attachment wouldn't hold the ribbon in place. It requires a slightly more stout woven edge so the top and bottom tines and ride along and add some tension. So I did this utilizing the closed loop method and used my trusty Bernina 830 Record sewing machine to "stitch in the ditch" (as close to the edge as I could pull off. Worked great.

The hat pin I think is great although I think that the bottom jewel is too big and without it, it would have laid flatter against the felt. My daughter really loves her hat. I consulted with her ever step of the way. The brim is a bit stingy for my liking but she loves it. She has already put in another order.

So cool that your daughter shares your passion for hats. When will she begin her apprenticeship?
Thanks for the info on the binder. I was still considering ordering one from TAC, but, for $700, I want it to work first time every time on any and all ribbons I choose to throw at it.

Hat and Rehat · May 22, 2019

ChicagoWayVito said:
I just finished a hat for my oldest daughter.

Here are the specs:

Quality: 100% Beaver

Color: Black

Bash: Teardrop

Open Crown Height: 6 inches

Front Crown Height: 5 inches

Rear Crown height: 3 3/4 inches

Front to Back Rake: 1 1/4 inches

Hat Band: 1930s 1 1/2 inch Purple grosgrain

Brim: 2 1/4 inches

Brim Binding: 7/8 inch vintage black grosgrain

Extras: Handmade liner, handmade wind trolley using matching ribbon, handmade hat pin (made by Art Jewelery for You https://www.amazon.com/Art-Jewelry-For-You/dp/B015G3M8X2)

The hat pin is the only thing that I did not make.

View attachment 169451 View attachment 169452 View attachment 169453 View attachment 169454 View attachment 169455 View attachment 169456 View attachment 169457 View attachment 169458

Very nice! I sure hope 'oldest daughter' means she has stopped growing.

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Hat and Rehat · May 22, 2019

ChicagoWayVito said:
Thank you Rick! I appreciate the compliment coming from you.

I wanted to use my 108w20 and the binding attachment but I couldn't as the woven edge of this ribbon was super fine and the attachment wouldn't hold the ribbon in place. It requires a slightly more stout woven edge so the top and bottom tines and ride along and add some tension. So I did this utilizing the closed loop method and used my trusty Bernina 830 Record sewing machine to "stitch in the ditch" (as close to the edge as I could pull off. Worked great.

The hat pin I think is great although I think that the bottom jewel is too big and without it, it would have laid flatter against the felt. My daughter really loves her hat. I consulted with her ever step of the way. The brim is a bit stingy for my liking but she loves it. She has already put in another order.

I read this earlier and its been killing me all day.
What's the closed loop method?

Ditto about your fortune having a hat daughter.

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ChicagoWayVito · May 22, 2019

humanshoes said:
So cool that your daughter shares your passion for hats. When will she begin her apprenticeship?
Thanks for the info on the binder. I was still considering ordering one from TAC, but, for $700, I want it to work first time every time on any and all ribbons I choose to throw at it.

My youngest wants to learn to make a hat this summer. So will get her blocking and pouncing at the end of June.

Hat and Rehat said:
I sure hope 'oldest daughter' means she has stopped growing.

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Yes, growing spurts have stopped. I still make hats for my kids when they are young. My two year old boy has a nice blue fedora.

Hat and Rehat said:
I read this earlier and its been killing me all day.
What's the closed loop method?

Ditto about your fortune having a hat daughter.

Sent from my LGMP260 using Tapatalk

I couldn't find the original that were posted by @Art Fawcett but here is the basic steps with pictures that were posted by @tonyb for doing the closed loop method of brim binding. It works beautifully. https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/brim-binding-tutorial-with-pictures-even.36255/

T Jones · May 23, 2019

If I can offer another suggestion for binding the brim on a fedora. Do all of the measuring, cutting and sewing with the brim flanged up. In other words, flange the brim first and leave it up. This will make for a smaller circumference and when the brim is snapped down in the front, the binding will be nice and tight with no slack.

This is literally my tabletop work!

T Jones · May 23, 2019

Just finished this one about an hour ago...this is a brown 4X Stetson Longhair that I converted from a Western. I had a vintage 1 5/8 black ribbon and bow that I put on it. Though not intended in anyway to be a replica, I used Alan Ladd's 'China hat as a model and added my own touches to it. I'll have more later in the Conversion Corral...

Steve1857 · May 23, 2019

T Jones said:
If I can offer another suggestion for binding the brim on a fedora. Do all of the measuring, cutting and sewing with the brim flanged up. In other words, flange the brim first and leave it up. This will make for a smaller circumference and when the brim is snapped down in the front, the binding will be nice and tight with no slack.

This is literally my tabletop work!

Cudos Terry. I wish I could do that. I'm so glad there are those who can.

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Steve1857 · May 23, 2019

T Jones said:
Just finished this one about an hour ago...this is a brown 4X Stetson Longhair that I converted from a Western. I had a vintage 1 5/8 black ribbon and bow that I put on it. Though not intended in anyway to be a replica, I used Alan Ladd's 'China hat as a model and added my own touches to it. I'll have more later in the Conversion Corral...

I take my hat off to you, sir. Nice job.

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T Jones · May 23, 2019

Steve1857 said:
I take my hat off to you, sir. Nice job.

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Thank you, Steve!

T Jones · May 23, 2019

Steve1857 said:
Cudos Terry. I wish I could do that. I'm so glad there are those who can.

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Thanks again, buddy. Sure you could do that. The biggest three things you would need, are, having a good idea of what you want to do with the hat before you get started, putting your mind to doing it, and tons of patience. Even if you had all the tools you needed to make your work easier, you still have to have those three things to accomplish what you want. But, yeah, you could do that.

ChicagoWayVito · May 23, 2019

T Jones said:
...In other words, flange the brim first and leave it up. This will make for a smaller circumference and when the brim is snapped down in the front, the binding will be nice and tight with no slack.

I flange multiple times, the final flanging is done after brim binding. Seems to work well for me.

T Jones · May 24, 2019

ChicagoWayVito said:
I flange multiple times, the final flanging is done after brim binding. Seems to work well for me.

What ever gives you the results you're happy with. Just like tonyb said, there's "many variations on brim-binding technique as there are people binding brims." If multiple flangings is a technique that works for well for you, there's no point in changing something that's giving you good results. For me, the one initial flanging and doing my binding work with the brim up has worked out well for me and has netted results that I'm happy with ....and I'm sure there's others who have different techniques from the way you and I do our bindings that work well for them. What ever works.

Hat and Rehat · May 24, 2019

ChicagoWayVito said:
My youngest wants to learn to make a hat this summer. So will get her blocking and pouncing at the end of June.

Yes, growing spurts have stopped. I still make hats for my kids when they are young. My two year old boy has a nice blue fedora.

I couldn't find the original that were posted by @Art Fawcett but here is the basic steps with pictures that were posted by @tonyb for doing the closed loop method of brim binding. It works beautifully. https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/brim-binding-tutorial-with-pictures-even.36255/

Thanks. I'm with family now, so will have look later. I started thinking, and may have read about it a while ago, right after I bought a sewing machine. Banding a brim isn't the best project to begin your sewing on.

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Hat and Rehat · May 24, 2019

ChicagoWayVito said:
My youngest wants to learn to make a hat this summer. So will get her blocking and pouncing at the end of June.

Yes, growing spurts have stopped. I still make hats for my kids when they are young. My two year old boy has a nice blue fedora.

I couldn't find the original that were posted by @Art Fawcett but here is the basic steps with pictures that were posted by @tonyb for doing the closed loop method of brim binding. It works beautifully. https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/brim-binding-tutorial-with-pictures-even.36255/

Thank you for finding that.

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Hat and Rehat · May 26, 2019

I'm not sure if this is where to share this or not.
Hot glue guns have become a go to tool in the millenary and hatter word, and it seemed to me that hot glue was universal in mass produced hats.
I've been finding some men's straws though, perhaps marketed in pro shops on the links, with the trim applied with some kind of clear gum strips or tape. The hats have a fabric crown logo inside, and are designed in Australia but produced in China.
I thought this was a very refreshing change, because I'm interested in upgrading some of the nicer "cheapo" hats and trying to find markets at various price points. Hot glue gobs ruin hats that might otherwise deserve nicer trim.
I started looking for that 'clear gum tape', but couldn't find exactly that. I found it's little brother though.
They make clear gum dots for the purpose of gluing balloons together. They're reusable, according to the description, though I don't intend to try. But they can easily be rolled into a ball and removed from straw or felt. Removed completely.
Anybody who's cheating on liner replacements, hat band replacements or anything else, sneaking out the glue gun, this is the answer so you can sleep better at night!
I bought a bunch of 3 pleat pug hatbands as one item for the "hat booth" that's part of my business plan. They are for "replace your old band" customers, and I've also been thinking about untrimmed hats for "pick your own band" customers. The hooks will secure a pugaree type band around the hat, but it really needs a stitch in a couple of places to not ride up. If I have 20 varieties, do I have to change colors and thread a needle every sale?
Not with the balloon dots!
They're quick, easy, and can't damage the hat.

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Hat and Rehat · May 26, 2019

Hat and Rehat said:
Thank you for finding that.

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I had forgotten that you started this thread with a beautiful hat you made for a 2 year old.
My grandchildren were here over the last week. My grandson left on Thursday with his dad, and his parents. They're in Indianapolis for the race today.
We just put the twin girls in their car seats and watched mom drive off with them for Kansas City.
I do have hats in the works for all three, straws, but didn't complete them while they were here. Binding the brim of two slowed me way down, but I also tried to dye two of them yesterday morning for customers that like pink hats. It was a fail. I tried to use tie-dye color because it's all Walmart had in pink. I think I would have had to have the straw well saturated with water first. Trying it relatively dry saw it shed the dye I was applying from a spray bottle.
I'll send them when I finish. I'm very impressed by the beautiful, bespoke level work you did for a 2 year old, destined to outgrow it, and likely to be hard on it until then.
My efforts feel like hack work in comparison. I will share it here in a couple of days though. It's one of those hacks someone else might want to try if they want kid's hats on short notice.

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