Panama Hat Thread

Tukwila · May 26, 2019

Bill Hughes said:
So I recently picked this up. It is originally from "Custom Hat Works" in Santa Fe, New Mexico. I think the weave work is pretty good and overall looks really nice. But why such mediocre work on the ribbon and sweatband? I think this is worthy of a better sweatband and ribbon treatment. Do you agree or should I just leave as is?

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IMO, absolutely worth some TLC. That's a wonderful weave, semi-calado that is harder and harder to find in that quality level. Maybe a light cleaning, reblock, and new sweat and ribbon work. A beauty, Bill. I'm jealous.

I have seen some nice stuff put out by that shop before. I wonder if the hat was abused a bit, thus the wonky brim and odd ribbon and worn sweat.

BobHufford · May 26, 2019

Bill Hughes said:
So I recently picked this up. It is originally from "Custom Hat Works" in Santa Fe, New Mexico. I think the weave work is pretty good and overall looks really nice. But why such mediocre work on the ribbon and sweatband?

"Montecristi" is actually part of their name.

https://www.montecristihats.com/

Considering their Panamas start at $800 I would expect better workmanship as well. It obviously bothers you so you should change it to your satisfaction. Beautiful hat despite the finishing!

deadlyhandsome · May 26, 2019

Bill Hughes said:
So I recently picked this up. It is originally from "Custom Hat Works" in Santa Fe, New Mexico. I think the weave work is pretty good and overall looks really nice. But why such mediocre work on the ribbon and sweatband? I think this is worthy of a better sweatband and ribbon treatment. Do you agree or should I just leave as is?

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I have one of their beaver hats and it’s very well made. Your Panama looks spectacular and I think a bit of sprucing up would be money well spent.

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AbbaDatDeHat · May 26, 2019

Bill Hughes said:
So I recently picked this up. It is originally from "Custom Hat Works" in Santa Fe, New Mexico. I think the weave work is pretty good and overall looks really nice. But why such mediocre work on the ribbon and sweatband? I think this is worthy of a better sweatband and ribbon treatment. Do you agree or should I just leave as is?

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Very cool hat Bill!
I’d doll it up if the sweatband is substandard. The weave is outstanding.
B

JC Montecristi Hat · May 26, 2019

[QUOTE = "Rmccamey, post: 2551206, miembro: 43839"] Excelente! [/ QUOTE]

Thanks, I have tried to work alone with the best weavers.

JC Montecristi Hat · May 26, 2019

GHT said:
Welcome JC, Ecuador does indeed have some very talented artisans making beautiful hats. My latest Panama was made in Ecuador. How I love it.
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Thanks for the welcome, you're very kind. There are many myths in the Panama hat, as production times that are very exaggerated, or that is fino, superfino and anything with fino (Maybe I should talk about this later). But the skill of the Ecuadorian artisans is hard to overcome, that is a reality.

JC Montecristi Hat · May 29, 2019

I'm going to talk about the production times, a subject where the information is distorted.

Excuse my English.

When the Panama hat became very popular, the sellers started using marketing gimmicks, between these exaggerated production times for qualities which are mostly made in a few days.

Hats of 3-6 wpi or grades, generally say that they have a production time of 1-2 weeks, most weavers weave between 2 to 3 hats daily in this quality. To become a specific model, in 1 or 2 days the artisans will have ready these 2 or 3 hats that they got from the weaver.

Hats 8-10 wpi or grades, I have read in the web pages that have a production time of 1 month, the time would be realistic for a 27-29 wpi hat, normally one day, 1 or 2 days in a hat is ready.

Hats from 11-13 wpi, some say 1 month, another 2 months. It is woven in 2 or 3 days, 2 or 3 days in finishes. In 2 months you will have a true superfine from 30 to 36 wpi.

14-15 wpi, equal to the previous one, is woven in 3-4 days, 2 or 3 days are finished. This is the lowest quality that I work with; it's flexible, light and close to a fino hat.

For that reason I offer shipping times of 7 to 10 working days.

It’s the turn of the fine hats (20-29 wpi), the maximum I've heard is 3 or 4 months, in that time you can have a 40-55wpi hat, Simon Espinel weaves 4 hats 50 wpi in a year, about 3 or 4 months per hat (Simon is used to working with only 50 wpi, the other weavers take 2 or 4 weeks more). A fino hat is woven in 2 to 4 weeks, in 3 or 4 days they are finished.

All times are based on my experience, taking order, according to the needs of the client. If you want a model with a brim or a crown longer or shorter, the size you want, usually has problems to get hats from 62 cm because the weavers weave very few hats, it's not a very commercial size, and 58cm to 60cm are more commercial sizes. If you are looking for a thin hat with semi-calado it will take 1 or 2 weeks more, depending on the work.

These times are applicable for blocked not made by hand, in Ecuador this is not done, but 90% of the process is done by hand (weave, cut, “ rematar ”, “ apalear ” Etc.)

I will leave some photos of the quality with which more work, it is not a Fino hat but its quality of weave and straw is superior to a Cuenca. The quality is 14-15 wpi in the case of photo 14 wpi, you can roll it up if you wish (although I send them ready to be used in a bigger box). The shipping time is 7 to 10 working days (Monday to Friday) I would send them earlier if DHL worked on Saturdays and Sundays, I even have a promotion that if you pay a little more you will get 2 hats in the models and sizes you choose.

So far I have not failed with the times but in such a case that you can request the return of your money to Paypal without problems.

deadlyhandsome · May 29, 2019

Can anyone identify what this hat is made of? I’m hoping toquilla straw, but the seller has no idea. I know it’s not a “fine” hat but it looks fun.

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Bill Hughes · May 29, 2019

deadlyhandsome said:
Can anyone identify what this hat is made of? I’m hoping toquilla straw, but the seller has no idea. I know it’s not a “fine” hat but it looks fun.

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Looks like a typical toquilla panama to me.

deadlyhandsome · May 29, 2019

Bill Hughes said:
Looks like a typical toquilla panama to me.

Me too, but I bought one I was sure was toquilla and later find a tag under the sweat that identified it as 100% paper. I don’t trust myself when it comes to Panama hats.

By the way, your latest Brent Black is my kind of hat! Beautiful!

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Bill Hughes · May 29, 2019

Bill Hughes said:
So I recently picked this up. It is originally from "Custom Hat Works" in Santa Fe, New Mexico. I think the weave work is pretty good and overall looks really nice. But why such mediocre work on the ribbon and sweatband? I think this is worthy of a better sweatband and ribbon treatment. Do you agree or should I just leave as is?

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So I sent an email to Custom Hat Works, Santa Fe and asked about this hat. Here is the reply. Seems I did better than I thought!

Good morning Bill,
That’s a nice hat you’ve found there. This is what we consider an Extra Fino calado weave, which is more valuable than the Fino Select. From what I can see in the photos, we would probably sell that weave brand new for somewhere between $1,000-1,500. I cannot tell if there are breaks in the straw, but I can see definite age in the wear of the leather and we changed leathers several years ago as well, so I’d estimate that this hat has been around for at least 15 years. The crown style is called a Teardrop, although it has lost some of its structure over time, along with the brim. Overall though, the hat seems plenty wearable and we hope you can give it an even longer life! Just handle it by the brim, and remember not to pinch the crown!
Cheers,

Diana Dubuque
MONTECRISTI CUSTOM HAT WORKS
505 983 9598
montecristihats.com
hats@montecristihats.com

AbbaDatDeHat · May 29, 2019

Bill Hughes said:
So I sent an email to Custom Hat Works, Santa Fe and asked about this hat. Here is the reply. Seems I did better than I thought!

Good morning Bill,
That’s a nice hat you’ve found there. This is what we consider an Extra Fino calado weave, which is more valuable than the Fino Select. From what I can see in the photos, we would probably sell that weave brand new for somewhere between $1,000-1,500. I cannot tell if there are breaks in the straw, but I can see definite age in the wear of the leather and we changed leathers several years ago as well, so I’d estimate that this hat has been around for at least 15 years. The crown style is called a Teardrop, although it has lost some of its structure over time, along with the brim. Overall though, the hat seems plenty wearable and we hope you can give it an even longer life! Just handle it by the brim, and remember not to pinch the crown!
Cheers,

Diana Dubuque
MONTECRISTI CUSTOM HAT WORKS
505 983 9598
montecristihats.com
hats@montecristihats.com

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Bill...no question in my book...one of the nicest straw hats i’ve ever seen in several categories. Outstanding solid brim weave and a crown weave so unique. Functional art! There may be finer weaves available but not a finer hat. Imho
B

Cornshucker77 · May 30, 2019

JC Montecristi Hat said:
I'm going to talk about the production times, a subject where the information is distorted.

Excuse my English.

When the Panama hat became very popular, the sellers started using marketing gimmicks, between these exaggerated production times for qualities which are mostly made in a few days.

Hats of 3-6 wpi or grades, generally say that they have a production time of 1-2 weeks, most weavers weave between 2 to 3 hats daily in this quality. To become a specific model, in 1 or 2 days the artisans will have ready these 2 or 3 hats that they got from the weaver.

Hats 8-10 wpi or grades, I have read in the web pages that have a production time of 1 month, the time would be realistic for a 27-29 wpi hat, normally one day, 1 or 2 days in a hat is ready.

Hats from 11-13 wpi, some say 1 month, another 2 months. It is woven in 2 or 3 days, 2 or 3 days in finishes. In 2 months you will have a true superfine from 30 to 36 wpi.

14-15 wpi, equal to the previous one, is woven in 3-4 days, 2 or 3 days are finished. This is the lowest quality that I work with; it's flexible, light and close to a fino hat.

For that reason I offer shipping times of 7 to 10 working days.

It’s the turn of the fine hats (20-29 wpi), the maximum I've heard is 3 or 4 months, in that time you can have a 40-55wpi hat, Simon Espinel weaves 4 hats 50 wpi in a year, about 3 or 4 months per hat (Simon is used to working with only 50 wpi, the other weavers take 2 or 4 weeks more). A fino hat is woven in 2 to 4 weeks, in 3 or 4 days they are finished.

All times are based on my experience, taking order, according to the needs of the client. If you want a model with a brim or a crown longer or shorter, the size you want, usually has problems to get hats from 62 cm because the weavers weave very few hats, it's not a very commercial size, and 58cm to 60cm are more commercial sizes. If you are looking for a thin hat with semi-calado it will take 1 or 2 weeks more, depending on the work.

These times are applicable for blocked not made by hand, in Ecuador this is not done, but 90% of the process is done by hand (weave, cut, “ rematar ”, “ apalear ” Etc.)

I will leave some photos of the quality with which more work, it is not a Fino hat but its quality of weave and straw is superior to a Cuenca. The quality is 14-15 wpi in the case of photo 14 wpi, you can roll it up if you wish (although I send them ready to be used in a bigger box). The shipping time is 7 to 10 working days (Monday to Friday) I would send them earlier if DHL worked on Saturdays and Sundays, I even have a promotion that if you pay a little more you will get 2 hats in the models and sizes you choose.

So far I have not failed with the times but in such a case that you can request the return of your money to Paypal without problems.

Beautiful work. Finely weaving a hat just amazes me. True artistry.

tropicalbob · May 30, 2019

That's one of the nicest colados I've ever seen. I'd send her off to Art Fawcett and get her dolled up.

Bill Hughes · May 30, 2019

tropicalbob said:
That's one of the nicest colados I've ever seen. I'd send her off to Art Fawcett and get her dolled up.

Actually I sent it to Mike Miller at Northwest. It was delivered today.

deadlyhandsome · May 31, 2019

Bill Hughes said:
Actually I sent it to Mike Miller at Northwest. It was delivered today.

Looking forward to seeing when it gets back. It started as an absolute jewel; I wonder what Mike will do with it....

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Bill Hughes · Jun 3, 2019

This arrived a few days ago. Just now getting around to taking pictures. A finely woven Panama originally sold at Brook Brothers. The pug is a dark navy almost black. I may change it out for a brighter pug. The brim is 2 1/4" which is smaller than I usually wear. But, I decided I needed a short brim or two for the extra windy days in Texas. Best of all - I acquired this from @alanfgag. This makes three hats now in my collection from Alan. My collection increases in style and value every time I get one from him.

Rmccamey · Jun 4, 2019

I'm going to have to "Friend" Alan and see if I can get hold of one of his treasures

Garrett · Jun 16, 2019

I've held out but its that time of year - here's an ancient panama to kick off the season

Bill Hughes · Jun 16, 2019

Garrett said:
I've held out but its that time of year - here's an ancient panama to kick off the season

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WOW starting off with a winner.

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