Which molds better, CXL FQHH or Vicenza HH?

ribeyemediumrare · Jul 2, 2019

If anyone has experience with both types of leather from Aero please provide some input on this topic.
I've placed an order on a custom aero board racer and I'm trying to gather some information on how these leather will fit and behave in the long term. I know that CXL FQHH can be stiff and unflattering when its new and that Vicenza HH drapes better from the start. My question is will CXL FQHH eventually drape and contour the body well or will Vicenza always be better at this? I have boots in cxl and I have noticed the leather to really nicely stretch and mold in the right places. Makes me wonder if it would mold to the shape of my torso better than vicenza, even if this a lot of wear and break in. The board racer will be a trim fit so I'm thinking maybe cxl will take on the shape of my shoulders and chest vs just kind of hanging off and blousing. What do you guys think? I could be way wrong and maybe fqhh is a terrible choice for a snug board racer. I'm also realizing that maybe drape and mold are somewhat contradictory terms.

Psant25 · Jul 2, 2019

After break in I prefer the cxl over the vicenza. Pretty subjective you will hear it all i am sure. It is almost a given that you will second guess your choice and at some point buy the other type and/or numerous examples of any and all. Just throw a dart man. In my opinion for a snug board racer I would go with either a lighter weight, tumbled, naked, softer hand leather. So prlly the vicenza. I have a tumbled cxl hwyman on order. Hopefully can skip some of the break in and have some grain off the bat with tumbled. I have a broken in langlitz cascade in goat. Perfect choice. And my columbia bike jacket is medium cow. Perfect choice. Totally different beasts. Good luck cant go wrong. I would be more worried about fit.
Brad

jpk_NJ · Jul 2, 2019

In my experience,after break in, the Vicenza will always "drape" better and kind of flow. The CXL, either Steer or Horse, will "mold" better and keep a semi firm memory. Kind of like comparing a structured blazer/shoe vs unstructured. Two clearly different things but each has its purpose. For me, I prefer the "structured" shape in half belt styles but the softer drape in 3/4" coats and CR's. If you just want the thickest / toughest / knife proof most substantial feeling jacket, then stick with Cxl! Vicenza is a much more gentle refined feeling kind of leather. Just my opinion

dan_t · Jul 2, 2019

As mentioned above, you'll get as many opinions as there will be responses. There's really no 'one answer is correct' with this one.
The choice may be made easier by asking;
a) what it the jacket intended to be used for? For instance, if you actually intend to ride a motorcycle, then the heavier hides (CXL) are the definite answer. If it is to be primarily a casual jacket, then the Vicenza is more comfortable from the get go.
b) what climate / seasons will you be wearing it in? If in a full blown northern hemisphere winter (eg Scotland, or further north), then the CXL will provide better water resistance and general protection. If south of this, then the Vicenza will probably do the job & provide for a longer wear season as it's lighter.
Over time, they'll both 'shape' (rather than 'mold or 'drape') to your body - as long as the initial fit is correct to start with.

ribeyemediumrare · Jul 3, 2019

dan_t said:
As mentioned above, you'll get as many opinions as there will be responses. There's really no 'one answer is correct' with this one.
The choice may be made easier by asking;
a) what it the jacket intended to be used for? For instance, if you actually intend to ride a motorcycle, then the heavier hides (CXL) are the definite answer. If it is to be primarily a casual jacket, then the Vicenza is more comfortable from the get go.
b) what climate / seasons will you be wearing it in? If in a full blown northern hemisphere winter (eg Scotland, or further north), then the CXL will provide better water resistance and general protection. If south of this, then the Vicenza will probably do the job & provide for a longer wear season as it's lighter.
Over time, they'll both 'shape' (rather than 'mold or 'drape') to your body - as long as the initial fit is correct to start with.

It will be a casual jacket, not for riding or any extreme weather. I mainly just want it to look good on me. I understand that the leather will behave and feel a bit differently but my question is mainly about how they fit the body after break in. New CXL jackets seem to look kind of puffy, do they always look like this compared to something like vicenza? I want the jacket to hug my muscular frame instead of floating over my body and making me look round and overweight.

I noticed with cxl boots for instance that the leather stretched out in certain spots like my ankle bone, without affecting the area right next to it. In fact in seems like the CXL actually sunk in a bit to the empty areas. In contrast shoes with simpler leathers just stretch in the entire area without a defined curve. This made me think of cxl as somewhat elastic, which is the opposite of how I've seen it described on here.

regius · Jul 3, 2019

CXL definitely molds better, the HH would take a lot longer than the steer, but mold better than Vicenza. If you handle a 4 by 8 piece of sample, in no time you could stretch the CXL & fold it however you want.

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ribeyemediumrare · Jul 3, 2019

jpk_NJ said:
In my experience,after break in, the Vicenza will always "drape" better and kind of flow. The CXL, either Steer or Horse, will "mold" better and keep a semi firm memory. Kind of like comparing a structured blazer/shoe vs unstructured. Two clearly different things but each has its purpose. For me, I prefer the "structured" shape in half belt styles but the softer drape in 3/4" coats and CR's. If you just want the thickest / toughest / knife proof most substantial feeling jacket, then stick with Cxl! Vicenza is a much more gentle refined feeling kind of leather. Just my opinion

Thanks thats exactly the type of comparison I was interested in, especially the part about the memory of the leather. So do you think cxl would end up curving around muscle better than vicenza? Heres an exaggerated picture I drew to help explain what I mean. The red outline would be how a jacket sits on the body. In the top one the jacket technically drapes and fits well but creates a very soft silhouette, in the bottom pic the jacket technically doesn't "drape" or lay flat but instead stretched in the high areas while still hugging body parts that stick out less. I know we are talking about leather here and not a stretchy sweatshirt but would you say CXL (once broken in) behaves more like the bottom drawing over vicenza?

El Marro · Jul 3, 2019

Psant25 said:
It is almost a given that you will second guess your choice and at some point buy the other type and/or numerous examples of any and all

Yes!
This is certainly the path that I am on...

El Marro · Jul 3, 2019

ribeyemediumrare said:
Thanks thats exactly the type of comparison I was interested in, especially the part about the memory of the leather. So do you think cxl would end up curving around muscle better than vicenza? Heres an exaggerated picture I drew to help explain what I mean. The red outline would be how a jacket sits on the body. In the top one the jacket technically drapes and fits well but creates a very soft silhouette, in the bottom pic the jacket technically doesn't "drape" or lay flat but instead stretched in the high areas while still hugging body parts that stick out less. I know we are talking about leather here and not a stretchy sweatshirt but would you say CXL (once broken in) behaves more like the bottom drawing over vicenza?

CXL most certainly does not wear like the bottom drawing and that is a good thing! I think your top drawing pretty closely illustrates a nice trim fit for a leather jacket, any tighter than that and it’s not comfortable to wear.

ton312 · Jul 3, 2019

Here are two very similar styles in cxl vs Vic.
50’s HB CXL cordovan (10lb)

30’s HB seal Vic (5lb)

Cxl is oil and wax packed. It retains memory from wear. Vic is not packed with oils and wax so it has more of a “short term memory”. My cxl jackets retain their creases when being worn by a hanger. I suspect Vic tends to relax it’s creases when not being worn.

ribeyemediumrare · Jul 3, 2019

El Marro said:
CXL most certainly does not wear like the bottom drawing and that is a good thing! I think your top drawing pretty closely illustrates a nice trim fit for a leather jacket, any tighter than that and it’s not comfortable to wear.

Sorry I probably should have drawn both equally close to the body and not make the second so tight, it was meant to show how the outline of the jacket looks in general and the shape it creates. I wouldn't want it to be that tight I just want there to be some shape instead of laying like a poncho. The shoulder seams of the jacket probably wont be where my shoulders end so I don't want the start of the sleeve to flare out where my upper arms are. The fit and construction of the jacket will probably play a bigger role in this but I'd imagine how the leather breaks in and molds would also make a difference.

El Marro · Jul 3, 2019

I hear you man. I’m inclined to think that CXL is more what you’re looking for in terms of settling in and molding to your shape. I have not owned a Vicenza jacket though so I cannot compare the two directly.

zebedee · Jul 3, 2019

ribeyemediumrare said:
I want the jacket to hug my muscular frame

Definitely go with Lost Worlds, whatever hide you choose.

Seb Lucas · Jul 3, 2019

I have had both. They vary from batch to batch. They look about the same to me, no difference in creasing or shape retention. The Vinceza feels more comfortable and is lighter. I dislike heavy leather.

It easy to overthink jackets and end up behaving like a neurotic teenager on prom night.

ribeyemediumrare · Jul 3, 2019

zebedee said:
Definitely go with Lost Worlds, whatever hide you choose.

Don't get the reference, if you're busting my chops then I can't say Im surprised given my unusual question

zebedee · Jul 3, 2019

ribeyemediumrare said:
Don't get the reference, if you're busting my chops then I can't say Im surprised given my unusual question

Not at all, just thinking of LW's website. As long as the fit is right, either hide will work. CXL is great stuff.

navetsea · Jul 3, 2019

whatever hide you choose, it won't curve following every muscle tone even when the jacket is tight, it will follow creases pattern instead, thicker heavier leather will make less creases but a big deeper ones, while thinner lighter leather will make more creases but they are crisper and shallower, heavy leather eventually sag more, so perhaps overtime it will hang following the shape of your upper shoulder or the shape of the hanger you put it on, if you want to drape, moving around as you walk blown by the wind, I doubt heavy thing even when completely broken in would drape unless it is quite long and roomy enough, lastly the lining material also play some factor thicker lining would even out minor bumps and creases, while simple thin lining or no lining would make more creases.

torfjord · Jul 3, 2019

I wouldn’t order a board racer in a heavy leather. It is a trim fitting pattern, and I think a tight fit in cxl would be way too uncomfortable. I would much rather go with a mid weight leather like Vicenza.

Also, I’m not sure if the board racer pattern is the best for a muscular frame. Others on here know these things better than me, but to my understanding the board racer have very little drop from chest to waist. If you have more of a v-shape, you might be better served going for the cafe racer pattern instead.

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ribeyemediumrare · Jul 3, 2019

torfjord said:
I wouldn’t order a board racer in a heavy leather. It is a trim fitting pattern, and I think a tight fit in cxl would be way too uncomfortable. I would much rather go with a mid weight leather like Vicenza.

Also, I’m not sure if the board racer pattern is the best for a muscular frame. Others on here know these things better than me, but to my understanding the board racer have very little drop from chest to waist. If you have more of a v-shape, you might be better served going for the cafe racer pattern instead.

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thats a good point, I'll have to see how tight the fit jacket will be. Yeah if the board racer fits me well in the chest/shoulders/arms I will have the waist tapered in. This way if the board racer upper body is too slim for me ill know to change the order to a size smaller cafe racer. The reason I'm doing it this way is theres a chance the cafe racer sleeves and chest might be slightly wide and the armholes too low. I have a weird build, big chest and shoulders, small waist, but still kind of lanky.

jacketjunkie · Jul 3, 2019

ribeyemediumrare said:
Thanks thats exactly the type of comparison I was interested in, especially the part about the memory of the leather. So do you think cxl would end up curving around muscle better than vicenza? Heres an exaggerated picture I drew to help explain what I mean. The red outline would be how a jacket sits on the body. In the top one the jacket technically drapes and fits well but creates a very soft silhouette, in the bottom pic the jacket technically doesn't "drape" or lay flat but instead stretched in the high areas while still hugging body parts that stick out less. I know we are talking about leather here and not a stretchy sweatshirt but would you say CXL (once broken in) behaves more like the bottom drawing over vicenza?

No leather will behave as on the second picture, and if you manage to squeeze yourself in a jacket that tight, it'll take a scalpel to get you out of it again. Leather usually doesn't stretch much, you get to pick between snug and not so snug fit regardless of choice of leather but no way it will shape after your muscles. Look at pictures of e.g. ton312 or Boyo for the best you can hope for. For easier wear, get Vicenca. For more fun in the break in process, get CLX.

Which molds better, CXL FQHH or Vicenza HH?

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