In the process of getting first leather jacket

Zeltbahn · Sep 1, 2019

Hello all,

I'm not sure should I have posted this on Small Questions -thread, but I decided to post new thread since I have several things in my mind.

So the thing is that for the past couple months I've been planning on purchasing my first real leather jacket. I live in Europe and the options that seem the best for me are either Aero Leather, ELMC or Lewis Leathers.

I'm mainly looking for a Biker style jacket and some options I have thought:
-Lewis Leathers 391 Lightning with black satin viscose lining
-Aero Leather Daytona or some of their other Motorcycle jacket
-ELMC Roadstar in Black
-ELMC Windward in Black, this is a bit different than the others in the list as it looks "cleaner", but I really like the look of it.

I don't ride a motorcycle, at least not yet, so the jacket is coming just for a daily fashion wear. But I still wish that the jacket would be somewhat original to its roots, that the fit would represent their original, vintage style.
Now about the leathers, mostly I've been thinking of horsehide as this is the most common leather in vintage jackets, right? I only have experience with cheap lambskin jackets. Black is the color I'm going for as it would be most versatile for a first leather jacket in my wardrobe. Blackened "tea core" brown could work too?

Also I have never had a made-to-measure jacket which would be the case if I would get the jacket from LL or Aero. It concerns me a bit if the measurements don't end up right and the jacket would not fit when it arrives.
I've been in contact with Lewis Leathers and what I understood is that usually only couple modifications are made to a stock size jacket that would fit you the best. So it would not be a total modification of every single measurement, which is good, I think.

Any recommendations for choosing a first leather jacket are welcome! And thoughts about the options I have listed above

Sheepdog149 · Sep 1, 2019

Welcome aboard! Good luck getting just one -- so many reputable makers, styles, hides, arghhh[emoji16][emoji1690]

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

nick123 · Sep 1, 2019

I'd jump on that Roadstar on ebay (only a 44/46 left) if it's your size...a few hundred off the full retail price. Be warned that the ELMC is full blown teacore. Love the Windward, but its lining is significantly warmer than the other models.

If not, Carrie from Thurston Bros or Charles from HPA will help you find a perfect fit. I truly like all of the jackets you're considering! Do check out the Aero Ridley as well.

Zeltbahn · Sep 1, 2019

Well damn, my size is on the small side, more like 36 or 38! Roadstar might the favourite of all these and I don't mind teacore, I would love to see how it ages with wear. How is the wool lining in Roadstar, light enough to wear in warmer days of fall and spring? Windward looks amazing, but the lining might be too warm indeed.

nick123 · Sep 1, 2019

Zeltbahn said:
Well damn, my size is on the small side, more like 36 or 38! Roadstar might the favourite of all these and I don't mind teacore, I would love to see how it ages with wear. How is the wool lining in Roadstar, light enough to wear in warmer days of fall and spring? Windward looks amazing, but the lining might be too warm indeed.

A few folks who have one here will surely chime in. I believe it's comparable to Aero's tartan-not too warm. I think Eastman's instagram page shows the dramatic color change of the Roadstar with a few years' wear. It's amazing but may not be everyone's cup of tea.

Zeltbahn · Sep 1, 2019

nick123 said:
If not, Carrie from Thurston Bros or Charles from HPA will help you find a perfect fit. I truly like all of the jackets you're considering! Do check out the Aero Ridley as well.

Aero Ridley seems very tempting, but I can only find it on Thurston Bros website, not in Aero Leather website at all? Is this jacket only offered by Thurston Bros?
As I'm in Europe, I would get the jacket straight from Aero Leather UK

Now that I've been looking very much into Aero, I think some of their biker jackets would be a great choice! But there are so many options, like the Elvis, J106 and Daytona. Currently I'm mostly leaning towards J106 as I like the option to remove the belt. Then I would also need to choose hide and colour! Which would be good to start with, Black CXFQHH?

What I am also thinking is that which leather were these types of jackets made of back in the days, 40s-60s? Mostly horsehide, but were they mostly teacore blackened brown or just black, or both?

nick123 · Sep 1, 2019

Zeltbahn said:
Aero Ridley seems very tempting, but I can only find it on Thurston Bros website, not in Aero Leather website at all? Is this jacket only offered by Thurston Bros?
As I'm in Europe, I would get the jacket straight from Aero Leather UK

Now that I've been looking very much into Aero, I think some of their biker jackets would be a great choice! But there are so many options, like the Elvis, J106 and Daytona. Currently I'm mostly leaning towards J106 as I like the option to remove the belt. Then I would also need to choose hide and colour! Which would be good to start with, Black CXFQHH?

What I am also thinking is that which leather were these types of jackets made of back in the days, 40s-60s? Mostly horsehide, but were they mostly teacore blackened brown or just black, or both?

Yes, if not in US, order from Aero direct I'd imagine. The leather was rarely if ever "teacore". Teacore is essentially vegetable tanned (not chrome tanned like most were from the era) with a thin top finish to allow quicker wear. Most of the repro companies prefer veg tan, but that was not the historical norm.

Mr Knight · Sep 1, 2019

Zeltbahn said:
Aero Ridley seems very tempting, but I can only find it on Thurston Bros website, not in Aero Leather website at all? Is this jacket only offered by Thurston Bros?
As I'm in Europe, I would get the jacket straight from Aero Leather UK

Now that I've been looking very much into Aero, I think some of their biker jackets would be a great choice! But there are so many options, like the Elvis, J106 and Daytona. Currently I'm mostly leaning towards J106 as I like the option to remove the belt. Then I would also need to choose hide and colour! Which would be good to start with, Black CXFQHH?

What I am also thinking is that which leather were these types of jackets made of back in the days, 40s-60s? Mostly horsehide, but were they mostly teacore blackened brown or just black, or both?

From what I can understand the Ridley is a made by Aero but sold exclusively through Thurston Bros, it's basic fit is based on that of the Board Racer but follows the aesthetics of the J106. I understand Aero market a 'slim motorcycle' jacket which looks very similar but you won't see that advertised as it's not been added to their website yet but is due to be updated within the next month (check out their Instagram and you'll see a few posts about it). Email Aero and they'll be more than happy to give you any information that you need.

The cross zip you're drawn to is most typically seen in black, most likely due to the 'grandfathers' of this style of jacket, the Schott Perfecto and the Buco J24, being mostly available in black with nickel hardware I assume. Check out Thurston Bros website if you want to see what common options folk go for in this style, it does look quite nice in brown too.

I'm not a history buff but I assume either horsehide or steerhide. Be aware that most black leathers are brown underneath so technically are 'tea-core' but not purposely like the namesake suggests. The only exception to this is the Vicenza leather that Aero/Thurston offer which is grey under the dye what I've heard (apart from the Blackened Brown which is a brown dyed leather with a second coating of black dye added).

Seb Lucas · Sep 1, 2019

I've bought dozens of leather jackets over 35 years. I wish I knew in 1983 that I know now.

For me the key issues I'd consider are:

Your build and weight. Not all patterns suit everyone. For instance, nothing worse that a tubby little guy in a trim jacket made for a svelte young build.

Leather thickness - do you really need 3oz thick FQHH leather where you live? I personally can't use the stuff and have returned all my thicker, stiffer jackets over the years.

Lining - cotton drill is the longest lasting strongest lining. I've had drill and wool tartan. I have not noticed any difference in warmth between them. I think possibly cotton is warmer and traps the heat more.

Pattern - pick something that suits your build and general look and work out your measurements so the jacket works for you. Sleeve, pit-to-pit and back length are critical.

Measurements - these can be tricky to get right. Many people wear jackets too small or too baggy. Tweaking measurements can sometimes be a lifetime's work.

Your first jacket is unlikely to be The One. It is generally a first draft and a learning experience.

Mr Knight · Sep 2, 2019

To add to what Seb Lucas said:

Think about what your main use of the jacket will be. Will it be just for going about your daily business or will you be riding in it? What kind of climate will you typical encounter when wearing it? What’s your frame/build? Remember that you can get advice from other folk here but it’s still entirely subjective depending on your preferences.

The first jacket will likely not be the ‘one’ but the more you get right with it, the less changes and tweaks for the next one.

Example: I tried a brown FQHH Board Racer for my first jacket and while the leather was gorgeous and the jacket fit me like a glove, it wasn’t very practical for day to day use and ultimately I traded it in towards my next jacket (Premier Highwayman in Vicenza leather) which is completely different and specced from what I learned with a lighter leather and slightly looser more practical fit.

If you get opportunity (depending on location), make a trip to Aero or a stockist of whichever brand you want to buy in to. You will learn a lot and be advised by folk who know exactly what they’re talking about. Both my jackets were specced with Denny from Aero stood right next to me

Zeltbahn · Sep 2, 2019

Thanks guys, all the info you've listed is great and very much needed!

I think the Motorcycle style jacket suits me well, I'm young and lean/athletic. Shorter type jackets tend to look very good on me. However, I do not ride so the reason I like the biker style is for the "rocker" it has. This first jacket would be just for daily wear.

One thing that I hadn't put in consideration was the leather thickness. I would want the jacket to be light enough to wear with just a t-shirt and layer underneath a sweater in chilly autumn mornings. I live in Finland but it's not that cold here during spring/fall when I mostly would be wearing the leather jacket. Too bad there is only one place here which sells some Aero products, but it's very limited currently, only a few products.

I think a regular black is the colour I should go with, but with what leather is what I'm thinking now. So I understood that the Aero CXFQHH is very heavy? I do not really need a very heavy jacket, but something that can be worn during whole year for just daily business, but not for extremely cold or summer.

I think now my options are Aero Leather and Lewis Leathers, as I wish for just regular black for the colour of the jacket. It doesn't have to be 100% repro of a certain era, but somewhat close to the original style. I'm not sure should it be chrome or veg tanned.

Mr Knight said:
I understand Aero market a 'slim motorcycle' jacket which looks very similar but you won't see that advertised as it's not been added to their website yet but is due to be updated within the next month (check out their Instagram and you'll see a few posts about it).

Thank you for this information, I think I found the jacket on their IG. I will need to contact Aero about this and maybe they can help me to choose best option for me!

Mr Knight · Sep 2, 2019

Zeltbahn said:
Thanks guys, all the info you've listed is great and very much needed!

I think the Motorcycle style jacket suits me well, I'm young and lean/athletic. Shorter type jackets tend to look very good on me. However, I do not ride so the reason I like the biker style is for the "rocker" it has. This first jacket would be just for daily wear.

One thing that I hadn't put in consideration was the leather thickness. I would want the jacket to be light enough to wear with just a t-shirt and layer underneath a sweater in chilly autumn mornings. I live in Finland but it's not that cold here during spring/fall when I mostly would be wearing the leather jacket. Too bad there is only one place here which sells some Aero products, but it's very limited currently, only a few products.

I think a regular black is the colour I should go with, but with what leather is what I'm thinking now. So I understood that the Aero CXFQHH is very heavy? I do not really need a very heavy jacket, but something that can be worn during whole year for just daily business, but not for extremely cold or summer.

I think now my options are Aero Leather and Lewis Leathers, as I wish for just regular black for the colour of the jacket. It doesn't have to be 100% repro of a certain era, but somewhat close to the original style. I'm not sure should it be chrome or veg tanned.

Out of the box FQHH is very stiff and not the most pleasant thing to wear, however it does start to break in pretty quick once it warms up and there are plenty of people who will vouch for it becoming buttery soft after plenty of use. I can’t personally comment as I gave up after 4 months.........

Check out the Horween website if you’d like to know more about the Chromexcel FQHH leather that Aero typically uses.

Seb Lucas · Sep 2, 2019

I had a 10 year old well-worn FQHH jacket that never softened up.

torfjord · Sep 2, 2019

The choice between heavy weight CXL or a mid-weight leather is a tricky one. And leather samples don't do a lot to help either. Not even having a jacket to try out might do the trick. There are nice things to be said about the feeling of wearing a thick and heavy leather jacket, especially if you only wear it for five minutes while trying it out. Much different if you're wearing it for several hours.

In the long run, CXL was too uncomfortable for me. Sure, it softened up quite a bit with wear. It still felt like wearing armor. And while it is cool to wear armor, it's not very comfortable. I've sold 2 of 3 CXL jackets that I got. I much prefer mid-weight leather. Aero's goat and Vicenza feel substantial without being uncomfortable.

jacketjunkie · Sep 2, 2019

Aeros Horween CLX Horsehide is roughly 3 oz, a jacket in a size 36 will weight roughly 4-5 pounds. That is fairly heavy-weight compared to what the fashion industry offers, however you will find quite a few members here who call that medium weight and prefer 3.5-4 oz thick leather and 6-8 lbs heavy jackets, so it is very subjective. Eastman and Lewis Leathers use leathers with a thickness of 2-2.5 oz thickness which will come in at 3-4 pounds. I handled two Eastmans, sold them both, not a fan of the leather. Aeros CLX feels great to the hand and breaks in wonderfully. The black one will show tones of brown at the edges fairly fast (not as fast as other makers teacore jackets but still). However it will be very stiff initially and the break-in process will take its time. I enjoyed seeing the hide change from day to day and witnessing the jacket developing over time, but for a put-on and forget it jacket, you are better off with Lewis/Eastman or Aeros lighter hides (I'd pick goatskin over Vicenca any day of the week, don't like that hide).

As for the chrome-tanned vs veg-tanned thing; usually chrome-tanned leathers age slower and have a black/grey base under the black topcoat. Lost Worlds and Vanson use chrome-tanned leather. It ages slower, jackets made from it will not look like a vintage jacket after a year of use as a well-used Aero or Eastman will. Again, this is a question of subjective taste. When I started with this obsession, I wanted the brown undertones, vintage look. More recently, I find myself looking at chrome-tanned leathers because the idea of an expensive jacket looking kinda "worn out" after just a few years bothres me. I adore those 80 year old german chrome-tanned leather coats leather which looks as new after 80 years which will probably stand the test of time for another 80 years and still look less worn than some repro makers hides after two seasons of wear.

Seb Lucas · Sep 2, 2019

The stiff, heavy hide question is an interesting puzzle. You can only arrive at an informed view empirically, through trying it out for an extended period. However if you have any existing indicators that heavy hide may not be useful (e.g., your climate, whether you run hot already) you may have an inkling which to choose. I love the look of FQHH and I love the idea of it. Can't do it. My sweet spot weight is 2.5oz maximum.

In the matter of Vicenza, versus goat, versus steer - I'm not all that fussed. Almost all leather has qualities I like and all I see are small differences, but no real advantages either way.

Justhandguns · Sep 2, 2019

Zeltbahn said:
Hello all,
So the thing is that for the past couple months I've been planning on purchasing my first real leather jacket. I live in Europe and the options that seem the best for me are either Aero Leather, ELMC or Lewis Leathers.

I'm mainly looking for a Biker style jacket and some options I have thought:
-Lewis Leathers 391 Lightning with black satin viscose lining
-Aero Leather Daytona or some of their other Motorcycle jacket
-ELMC Roadstar in Black
-ELMC Windward in Black, this is a bit different than the others in the list as it looks "cleaner", but I really like the look of it.

Any recommendations for choosing a first leather jacket are welcome! And thoughts about the options I have listed above

Wow, you fellows are really giving Zeltbahn a crash course on hides and leather jackets.

My take on this is a bit different, as you are young, you certainly would want something more 'fashionable'. Hence I would go for the Lewis. If you have ever handled the Aero's and ELMCs jackets, they are on the heavier side. I either own or have handled all brands that you have on the list.

The best bet, if you are not particularly into heavy hides (or horse in particular), my recommendation is Lewis 391 with the lighter sheep skin. The catch is that it will not age as quick as the ELMCs as they are made to age to their vintage looks quickly.

Zeltbahn · Sep 2, 2019

Justhandguns said:
Wow, you fellows are really giving Zeltbahn a crash course on hides and leather jackets.

My take on this is a bit different, as you are young, you certainly would want something more 'fashionable'. Hence I would go for the Lewis. If you have ever handled the Aero's and ELMCs jackets, they are on the heavier side. I either own or have handled all brands that you have on the list.

The best bet, if you are not particularly into heavy hides (or horse in particular), my recommendation is Lewis 391 with the lighter sheep skin. The catch is that it will not age as quick as the ELMCs as they are made to age to their vintage looks quickly.

Haha, yes, I'm going crazy with all the information and options there is!

I agree that Lewis could look very good on me and it might be the most safest choice to go with. I am 24 and don't look any older than that either. I'm interested in the horsehide, but I've heard good things about Lewis sheepskin aswell.

jacketjunkie · Sep 2, 2019

Zeltbahn said:
Haha, yes, I'm going crazy with all the information and options there is!

I agree that Lewis could look very good on me and it might be the most safest choice to go with. I am 24 and don't look any older than that either. I'm interested in the horsehide, but I've heard good things about Lewis sheepskin aswell.

You should look at the cowhide. Their horsehide got some mixed reviews when they switched to it, apparently some jackets creased very unevenly. Their cowhide is the real deal that stood the test of time. Sheepskin on a jacket at that price point... idk.. sheepskin is not very rugged, rather thin and therefore by leather standards fairly easily damaged. The other day I got caught on a scuffold I had to walk around on the street; result is a deep scratch in my 1.4mm thick steerhide jacket. Annoying, but will blend in with wear. I have seen a friend rip apart a sheepskin jacket in a comparable situation (not a LL, but no cheap jacket either).

Justhandguns · Sep 2, 2019

I have touched the LL sheep jackets, they are not exactly thin nor fragile. But I absolutely agree, original cowhide is the way to go for a Lewis jacket. My 391 is the good old cowhide, the leather is so good that.... after over 8 years of casual wear, it still looks new..... I bet that a lot of people here won't like it

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In the process of getting first leather jacket

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