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Lost Worlds J-23 Review/Evo

Carlos840

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,920
Location
London
Around December last year i contacted Lost Worlds to order a J-23.
I have to say that after many years of browsing his website i didn't know what to expect, but communication with Stuart was very easy and straightforward.
He is a man of few words, straight to the point, but always answered my emails within a few hours.
It only took 5 or 6 emails and i had my order in.

By the end of February, i had received the jacket, and it was everything i had hoped for.
I went with the 3.5oz leather, the full Crown zipper package and i asked for a curly black mutton collar if he could get one. Stuart was originally reticent about the black collar, as it wasn't "correct" but when he shipped the jacket he told me they had found a couple curly skins in stock and i had my curly collar!

I had also asked for hides with stretch marks to be used, Stuart originally said it wasn't a thing, but what i received was exactly what i had in mind.

Here is the jacket out of the Box:

7CviUYw.jpg


i9Cwuv7.jpg


LzhtUEu.jpg


5j4XqKL.jpg


2PrExZQ.jpg


a9FM08O.jpg


Straight away i was blown away by the leather, it has a very distinctive smell, a very nice hand, soft but consistent at the same time, with amazing grain straight out of the box. Construction is on par with the top Japanese makers, this jacket is stitch perfect, everything is straight and precisely done.

I had always found the NOS zipper obsession thing weird, but i have to say that these zippers converted me, the main Crown zipper is a thing of beauty, the spring loaded puller, the chunkiness, the noise it makes when used, it really is something else. They really don't do them like they used to. The other zippers are less mind blowing, but they are clearly better quality than modern equivalent.

Really i have only two slight negatives, the wrist openings are huge even when zipped shut. According to Stewart, this is how they were on originals.
Fair enough, but i would rather they were smaller.
Secondly, i am not a fan of the quilted lining, IMO they always have loose threads in no time, this one is no exception. I think that a jacket at that price should be available with a cotton drill lining at no extra cost.


Fit wise, i have nothing bad to say, this is a super comfortable pattern, range of movement is very good, it isn't heavy on the neck, it doesn't ride up, it is overall a very well designed jacket.

eKbRBQc.jpg


CqIzP3y.jpg


eOg0lRt.jpg


Then i spotted this, just above the right hand side handwarmer pocket:

OAG0PSj.jpg


It looked to me like the prongs of a shoulder bar tab had been pressed into the leather, and pierced it almost all the way through...
As you can imagined, i was a bit annoyed, this is definitely not a big deal, but it is annoying on a brand new jacket, especially at that price.
I sent Stuart a picture, not asking for anything, just wanting him to know about it.

His answer was straightforward, "This should not have reached you like this, send it back, we will change the panel"
I was a bit worried about that, as i have seen how bad a zipper change can end up looking, i told him that i would only be ok with a panel change if he could guarantee it would be invisible, if not i would rather keep the jacket with these small defects.
He told me "my guy is the best in the world, you won't see a thing"

He was right, in April i received the jacket back, and you would never be able to tell it had been through major surgery, there is not a single sign of the panel change ever happening.

I got my water bottle out and started break in:

BqeZFIw.jpg


After 6 months of wear here is what it looks like:

N0jF9X1.jpg


YSkH9kU.jpg


pmXBkLg.jpg


SsCBRiM.jpg


XUVRZX5.jpg


cVxi1Aa.jpg


Im5Wzwc.jpg


9HANIoW.jpg


After a couple weeks of wear, i realized i had lost one of the zipper stoppers (the small bent metal pieces that prevent the slider from coming off the tape), i sent Stuart an email and within a week i had a small bag with 3 stoppers in my mailbox in the UK.

All in all, i have to say that this has become one of my favourite jackets. It is IMO the only non Japanese made jacket that i own that can compete with the obsessive precision of something like a Freewheelers or a RMC. The leather used is very unique and has a lot of character, break in was very easy, you can really see it evolve and see the grain pop as you wear it.
Stuart is easy to deal with and absolutely stands behind his product. I know it isn't easy for some to see past his website, but if you give it a go you won't regret it.
 
Last edited:
Messages
10,199
That jacket is perfection. And yes, Stuart is a pro who stands by his jackets. And the jackets are top-tier, no question. Thanks for taking the time.
 

Hh121

Banned
Messages
3,004
Thanks for the honestly review, I do hope the wrist opening of my j23 much smaller.
 

Logician

One of the Regulars
Messages
176
Location
Canada (Montreal)
Congrats. Super jacket. I like the leather. Stuart's HH has changed over the years. It is less "plastic-like " and more matte now. I personally own 5 LW HH jackets and I'm waiting for a 6th one in goat (Courier). I've never had a problem worth mentioning with LW, no issue whatsoever. Stuart is very professional and up to the point. My next LW will probably be a Bk (Navy?) HH Leathertogs with Crown zippers (I converted a long time ago). Early next year perhaps. After reading your misadventure with your Japanese jacket, I am reluctant to order one. Besides, their size charts seem a little bit weird. I'm pretty sure the jacket wouldn't fit me. I wouldn't chance it.
 
Last edited:

jacketjunkie

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,213
Location
Germany
C, this jacket is amazing. I wish there was a more lively second-hand market for LW jackets so I could grab one at reduced rate. I guess the fact that there is not speak for the happiness of Stus customers. This horsehide is glorious and you praising the construction despite your keen eye for stitching... wow.

Btw, it is funny to read you mentioning the jacket being "not heavy in the neck" as this subject has been on my mind very recently too when I put on two equally heavy jackets and while one was very comfortable to wear, the other one was fairly uncomfortable in the neck area as apparently the different pattern put a lot of weight there instead of evenly distributing it over the shoulders. I'm thinking the neck hole is cut/put in very poor fashion, more in the front of the jacket rather than being "on top" of it which results in the back panel lying on the neck. But that's just me theory crafting.
 

ksozay

One Too Many
Messages
1,071
Location
Seattle
Jacket looks great, Carlos!!

Just a few more months and I report back to LW for my yearly deployment. Makes me almost miss the bootcamp.
 

Boyo

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,213
Location
Long Island NY
Beautiful jacket and I truly enjoyed the review and back story..
The wrist openings look fine in the photos posted.. for sure that's a personal thing but i think any tighter would be annoying for me.
thanks for sharing..
 
Messages
16,403
Fantastic review, fantastic jacket. Fits you perfectly but no point even mentioning that anymore. I don't think a cross zip can can fit any better.

What I'm most happy about rn is that this is possibly the closest I can get to a LW jacket, without actually physically holding one so I've learned a lot from your review. The stitching, which I wouldn't have noticed had you not mentioned it, indeed does seem outstanding.

Also, what @Logician says, it's really good LW has switched to a different leather because frankly, the stuff my LW vest is made of just cannot compare to your jacket. I know you've specifically asked for a leather with more character (love the stretch marks on leather too, as deranged as that may sound) but it's plainly obvious that it's a much higher grade leather that in general looks so much better.

TBH, if I didn't read this review, I would've been reluctant to order a full on custom LW because of how plastic-y the leather on the vest I got is - which made things a lot less complicated for me until this moment so that's not really good at all, actually. . . :D

In any case, thank you for the review and the outstanding pictures! Just can't stop staring at the photos & I hope everyone is aware that if you click one, you'll see the freaking pores.

Two quick questions, though...

Are the sleeves also lined in quilt & insulated?

How's the action back working?

The wrist openings look fine in the photos posted.. for sure that's a personal thing but i think any tighter would be annoying for me.

Yeah, agreed. They look just right to me.
 

sweetfights

My Mail is Forwarded Here
Messages
3,222
Location
Canada
Around December last year i contacted Lost Worlds to order a J-24.
I have to say that after many years of browsing his website i didn't know what to expect, but communication with Stuart was very easy and straightforward.
He is a man of few words, straight to the point, but always answered my emails within a few hours.
It only took 5 or 6 emails and i had my order in.

By the end of February, i had received the jacket, and it was everything i had hoped for.
I went with the 3.5oz leather, the full Crown zipper package and i asked for a curly black mutton collar if he could get one. Stuart was originally reticent about the black collar, as it wasn't "correct" but when he shipped the jacket he told me they had found a couple curly skins in stock and i had my curly collar!

I had also asked for hides with stretch marks to be used, Stuart originally said it wasn't a thing, but what i received was exactly what i had in mind.

Here is the jacket out of the Box:

7CviUYw.jpg


i9Cwuv7.jpg


LzhtUEu.jpg


5j4XqKL.jpg


2PrExZQ.jpg


a9FM08O.jpg


Straight away i was blown away by the leather, it has a very distinctive smell, a very nice hand, soft but consistent at the same time, with amazing grain straight out of the box. Construction is on par with the top Japanese makers, this jacket is stitch perfect, everything is straight and precisely done.

I had always found the NOS zipper obsession thing weird, but i have to say that these zippers converted me, the main Crown zipper is a thing of beauty, the spring loaded puller, the chunkiness, the noise it makes when used, it really is something else. They really don't do them like they used to. The other zippers are less mind blowing, but they are clearly better quality than modern equivalent.

Really i have only two slight negatives, the wrist openings are huge even when zipped shut. According to Stewart, this is how they were on originals.
Fair enough, but i would rather they were smaller.
Secondly, i am not a fan of the quilted lining, IMO they always have lose threads in no time, this one is no exception. I think that a jacket at that price should be available with a cotton drill lining at no extra cost.


Fit wise, i have nothing bad to say, this is a super comfortable pattern, range of movement is very good, it isn't heavy on the neck, it doesn't ride up, it is overall a very well designed jacket.

eKbRBQc.jpg


CqIzP3y.jpg


eOg0lRt.jpg


Then i spotted this, just above the right hand side handwarmer pocket:

OAG0PSj.jpg


It looked to me like the prongs of a shoulder bar tab had been pressed into the leather, and pierced it almost all the way through...
As you can imagined, i was a bit annoyed, this is definitely not a big deal, but it is annoying on a brand new jacket, especially at that price.
I sent Stuart a picture, not asking for anything, just wanting him to know about it.

His answer was straightforward, "This should not have reached you like this, send it back, we will change the panel"
I was a bit worried about that, as i have seen how bad a zipper change can end up looking, i told him that i would only be ok with a panel change if he could guarantee it would be invisible, if not i would rather keep the jacket with these small defects.
He told me "my guy is the best in the world, you won't see a thing"

He was right, in April i received the jacket back, and you would never be able to tell it had been through major surgery, there is not a single sign of the panel change ever happening.

I got my water bottle out and started break in:

BqeZFIw.jpg


After 6 months of wear here is what it looks like:

N0jF9X1.jpg


YSkH9kU.jpg


pmXBkLg.jpg


SsCBRiM.jpg


XUVRZX5.jpg


cVxi1Aa.jpg


Im5Wzwc.jpg


9HANIoW.jpg


After a couple weeks of wear, i realized i had lost one of the zipper stoppers (the small bent metal pieces that prevent the slider from coming off the tape), i sent Stuart an email and within a week i had a small bag with 3 stoppers in my mailbox in the UK.

All in all, i have to say that this has become one of my favourite jackets. It is IMO the only non Japanese made jacket that i own that can compete with the obsessive precision of something like a Freewheelers or a RMC. The leather used is very unique and has a lot of character, break in was very easy, you can really see it evolve and see the grain pop as you wear it.
Stuart is easy to deal with and absolutely stands behind his product. I know it isn't easy for some to see past his website, but if you give it a go you won't regret it.

Congratulations on a perfect looking fit. Lost World's is WORLD CLASS. Stuart has always been great with me.
I have had 6 jackets straight from Stuart. Superior construction and service. Only problem I ever had was with his non-crown zippers. Standard zippers he use to use were too small and the larger #10 zippers were hit and miss.
You will always get a superb product from Stuart- just do not forget to ask him to double check the zipper.
 

oneterrifichog

Practically Family
Messages
860
Location
Signal Mountain, TN
Great looking fit Carlos. It looks like it will break in nicely. I have been dealing with Stuart for 15 years and have always had good results. I have lost count as to the number of LW Jackets I have owned and all have been spot on! Stuart has always been willing to work with me either in the manufacturing or in adjustments I found necessary after purchasing used Lost World jackets. I have always been straight up with him and he has with me. I currently own 5 LW jackets and 1 vest and they hit the mark. I especially like the J-24 jackets he produces as well as the J-23. Enjoy it and wear the hell out of it!
 

Carlos840

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,920
Location
London
Fantastic review, fantastic jacket. Fits you perfectly but no point even mentioning that anymore. I don't think a cross zip can can fit any better.

What I'm most happy about rn is that this is possibly the closest I can get to a LW jacket, without actually physically holding one so I've learned a lot from your review. The stitching, which I wouldn't have noticed had you not mentioned it, indeed does seem outstanding.

Also, what @Logician says, it's really good LW has switched to a different leather because frankly, the stuff my LW vest is made of just cannot compare to your jacket. I know you've specifically asked for a leather with more character (love the stretch marks on leather too, as deranged as that may sound) but it's plainly obvious that it's a much higher grade leather that in general looks so much better.

TBH, if I didn't read this review, I would've been reluctant to order a full on custom LW because of how plastic-y the leather on the vest I got is - which made things a lot less complicated for me until this moment so that's not really good at all, actually. . . :D

In any case, thank you for the review and the outstanding pictures! Just can't stop staring at the photos & I hope everyone is aware that if you click one, you'll see the freaking pores.

Two quick questions, though...

Are the sleeves also lined in quilt & insulated?

How's the action back working?



Yeah, agreed. They look just right to me.

Thanks, glad i could help/enable...
The sleeves are not quilted all the way through, they have a single layer of thick satin.

The action back is very good, mobility is comparable to a Vanson or something like that.
The pleat is 1.5" deep, which is the same as my Schott 644, and deeper than my AL cafe racer at 1".
It is honestly an effortless jacket to wear, even though it is pretty heavy (3kg exactly) it sits well on the shoulders and allows full range of motion.
 

Benny Holiday

My Mail is Forwarded Here
Messages
3,751
Location
Sydney Australia
Congratulations Carlos, as all have said the fit is superb. Your reviews are always very informative and very much appreciated, and your photos always clear. I know you're going to enjoy the J24 more and more as the weather cools down over there.
 

Imuricecreamman

One Too Many
Messages
1,551
Man! Now that is a leather jacket! I've always felt the leather and the construction of his jackets were too "perfect" for my taste, but this is very much up my alley.
 

J Leather Investigater

One Too Many
Messages
1,657
Location
Wilmington n.c.
Perfection!! Great customer service, awsome pattern, beautiful horsehide, immaculate construction, and built like a tank, that's what I'm talking about. congratulations Carlos on owning a gem. And its built right here in the good old usa, without excessive wait times. I seriously always feel like stu's products are worth every cent. I'm always blown away. Good choice on that 10 crown zipper to, it's the best zipper I've seen or had by a long shot

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
 

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