Custom order of Aero Hudson in progress...

Tefouane · Sep 13, 2019

Fed up with searching some used stuff fitting my chimpanzee arms and torso, I have decided to order a custom HUDSON.
Here are my requests :

Size 42 custom HUDSON
Shoulders 19.25
Pit to pit 23.5
Sleeves 27.25
Back 35
- Heavy brown Horween CX Steerhide
- Leather collar
- Teamster style bi-swing back with Teamster yoke
- Boxy Talon Antique brass main zip
- Antique Brass Looped fine ball chain with central ball for the 2 chest pockets
- Slimmed down sleeves
- Speedway style Horn Button cuffs, leather lined (no storm cuffs)
- Front cargo Pockets with real horn button closure
- Same horn buttons on the belt than on the sleeves (not the standard ones)
- Left inside pocket with snap closure
- All pockets lined with green moleskin
- 2 inch leather facing for the inside bottom hem
- Entire jacket top stitched with olive drab thread
- Jacket fully lined with green moleskin

What do.you think about it guys ? Do you wanna change some things ?
Cheers
Steph

Guppy · Sep 13, 2019

I'd rethink moleskin in the sleeves. I'd rather have something less grabby.

Peacoat · Sep 13, 2019

Rather than tell Aero what the various measurements should be, Holly will probably want you to send them your measurements, and they will figure it out from there. Of course it won't hurt to tell them what measurements have worked for you in the past.

Tefouane · Sep 13, 2019

Peacoat said:
Rather than tell Aero what the various measurements should be, Holly will probably want you to send them your measurements, and they will figure it out from there. Of course it won't hurt to tell them what measurements have worked for you in the past.

I have sent all my measurements.to Holly. Shoulders and p2p are standard measurements of the 42 size. Sleeves and back are customized measurements.

Tefouane · Sep 13, 2019

Guppy said:
I'd rethink moleskin in the sleeves. I'd rather have something less grabby.

Thanks. Do you recommend heavy cotton Drill for the sleeves ?

Peter Bowden · Sep 13, 2019

I think you would be fine with heavy cotton for the sleeves but I don't think you would want to slim the sleeves down to much.The default sleeve lining is alpaca which I find OK with a thick cotton shirt but really does not allow for layering so if anything I would go for a slightly roomier sleeve.I find that storm cuffs tend to grab on shirt sleeve cuffs but you have opted out on these.

Sloan1874 · Sep 13, 2019

Tefouane said:
Thanks. Do you recommend heavy cotton Drill for the sleeves ?

Yes, I'd go with drill. It won't make much difference to the warmth of the jacket. A warm lining is more important for the body.

Jejupe · Sep 13, 2019

I have moleskin for sleeve lining in one of my Aero’s. I don’t find it crabbier than the cotton drill I have in quite a few Aero’s. My favorite for sleeve lining would however be cotton sateen. Actually that’s a good lining for the whole jacket, if you don’t wish to have any patterns in the lining. I don’t find much difference in warmth of drill, sateen or tartan linings. Alpaca and quilted lining are warmer, if that’s what you’re after.

sweetfights · Sep 13, 2019

Jejupe said:
I have moleskin for sleeve lining in one of my Aero’s. I don’t find it crabbier than the cotton drill I have in quite a few Aero’s. My favorite for sleeve lining would however be cotton sateen. Actually that’s a good lining for the whole jacket, if you don’t wish to have any patterns in the lining. I don’t find much difference in warmth of drill, sateen or tartan linings. Alpaca and quilted lining are warmer, if that’s what you’re after.

Sateen or other durable smooth material when you have the choice for the sleeves.

willyto · Sep 13, 2019

Sleeves should be smooth or it will be a hassle to put in and off all the time.

Hh121 · Sep 14, 2019

I never know you can request shoulder and chest measurement.

jacketjunkie · Sep 14, 2019

Have moleskin in my Bootlegger sleeves, months of wear no problem at all.

35" backlength seems awfully long for this style, longer than any buttoned coat Aero offers. I guess it's 30" at most standard length? Personally, I wouldn't want it longer than 28" with this style of jacket. Are you really that tall? I think you should reconsider this.

And with all the changes you made to the standard design makes me think you actually want a very different jacket. I would be careful with these kind of "I'll just take the thing closest to what I want and modify it like mad to get it working for me."-compromisses. In my experience this goes bad all too often and anyway, a compromiss for 1000€+? I don't know.. maybe better to put this aside for a week or two and then take a second look at it and make sure it really (still) is what you truly want. Two days ago you were still enquiring about a different jacket, is all I'm saying.

seres · Sep 14, 2019

jacketjunkie said:
...35" backlength seems awfully long for this style, longer than any buttoned coat Aero offers. I guess it's 30" at most standard length? Personally, I wouldn't want it longer than 28" with this style of jacket. Are you really that tall? I think you should reconsider this....

I agree. I'm 73", and I have a coat I bought 40 years ago that is 35" long. Just too long by modern standards. I see you have long arms, but I would keep the length at 30" or so. Better yet, ask Holly of recommendations.

Also like others have said, line the sleeves with a smooth fabric, like cotton sateen. I have a jacket with moleskin lined sleeves, and it is more difficult to put on. Not impossible, but it takes time to get it feeling right.

Peter Bowden · Sep 14, 2019

My Hudson is a nominal size 50 with a back length of 33.25 which is how they designed it.It is a long length coat as advertised.

Tefouane · Sep 14, 2019

jacketjunkie said:
Have moleskin in my Bootlegger sleeves, months of wear no problem at all.

35" backlength seems awfully long for this style, longer than any buttoned coat Aero offers. I guess it's 30" at most standard length? Personally, I wouldn't want it longer than 28" with this style of jacket. Are you really that tall? I think you should reconsider this.

And with all the changes you made to the standard design makes me think you actually want a very different jacket. I would be careful with these kind of "I'll just take the thing closest to what I want and modify it like mad to get it working for me."-compromisses. In my experience this goes bad all too often and anyway, a compromiss for 1000€+? I don't know.. maybe better to put this aside for a week or two and then take a second look at it and make sure it really (still) is what you truly want. Two days ago you were still enquiring about a different jacket, is all I'm saying.

This is how a 28' back jacket fit on me....so it will be too short for an Hudson....

Carlos840 · Sep 14, 2019

When i first read the posts saying 35" back was too long i agreed, but i now think it should be right on the edge of ok.

This is my Schott 602, it has a 30.5" back (i am 6'2"/ 188cm)

As you can see it still reaches well above my pants crotch. Looking at the Hudson it looks like it is a slightly longer design, supposed to almost completely cover your butt. Add 4.5" to my 602 and you are basically fully covering my butt.
If you still want a bit of butt showing, 33" or 34" should work...

Decent Hudson fit pics:

https://pinkomo.fi/product/aero-hudson-brown-horween-horsehide-cxfqhh/

Tefouane · Sep 14, 2019

Thanks Carlos840. Will go for 33.5 or 34 so...

Mich486 · Sep 14, 2019

I’d also consider a mid weight leather. Heavy steer on such a long coat I think will turn out to be too much.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

El Marro · Sep 15, 2019

Jejupe said:
I have moleskin for sleeve lining in one of my Aero’s. I don’t find it crabbier than the cotton drill I have in quite a few Aero’s

Same here. I have moleskin lining in my Bootlegger and my Teamster sleeves and I do not find them hard to take on or off with or without long sleeve shirts on. I think this is partly due to the fact that both of these jackets have wider sleeves then some I own. I know that my Thedi jacket would be a bear to get on or off with anything other than the sateen sleeve lining.

Tefouane · Sep 16, 2019

Thanks guys for your kind help. I want to thanks especially Ken who replies to all my emails promptly and gives me good advices. Finally I have ordered this one :

Size 42 custom HUDSON
Shoulders 19.5 (standard shoulders of a 42 size)
Pit to pit 23.5 (standard p2p of a 42 size)
Sleeves 27.25
Back 33.25
- Heavy brown Horween CX Steerhide
- Leather collar
- Teamster style bi-swing back with Teamster yoke
- Speedway style Horn Button cuffs, olive corduroy lined (no storm cuffs)
- Boxy Talon Antique brass main zip
- Antique Brass Looped fine ball chain with central ball for the 2 chest pockets
- Front cargo Pockets with real horn button closure
- Same horn buttons on the belt than on the sleeves (not the standard ones)
- Left open vertical internal Pocket
- Entire jacket top stitched with olive drab thread
- Body lined with olive moleskin
- All pockets lined with olive moleskin
- Sleeves lined with Olive heavy cotton drill

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