Who Made Leatherman’s CHP Jacket?

Monitor · Sep 15, 2019

Kalmer said:
That’s interesting to know! But is this style exclusive for gay leather scene though?

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In reality, this is just a cross zip leather jacket (or a double rider (or a Perfecto styled jacket, if you will)), one that's for all intents and purposes visually identical to any Schott 618 or Lewis Leathers Lightning or I don't know, whatever. I know it's not of course but a certain pocket config, padded elbows or a lack of belt doesn't make it a style of its own. So it's as gay leather scene exclusive as anything else out there.

Nobody's going to say "Oh, that's that gay jacket!" if that's what you're asking.

Or rather, someone's gonna say this regardless of what kind of a cross zip you're wearing.

ksozay · Sep 15, 2019

In my humble opinion, that is not a Cal jacket. The design is likely based on but not a Cal pattern (LAPD).

There were a number of manufacturers that made this jacket modeled on the Cal design. There were also leather repair shops that commonly fixed a jacket and replaced the original tag with their own. Likely this is the case with your jacket.

There have been many eras of Cal lapd jackets, each has a unique aspect to it that makes it identifiable for the decade it was made. Largely based on materials they were using, people who were sewing. But in all cases, they followed the same pattern. Even the belt-less, badge less options still specific design details all Cal jackets contained. Even the current version Gwen is making right now, which uses steerhide, looks very similar to the first lapds. Because they continue to use the original pattern. Leather and zippers, etc have changed but the design is the same. The leather on this jacket, rear panel, zippers, and lapels - are not consistent with the jackets I’ve ever seen/owned. Similar, but same.

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Monitor · Sep 15, 2019

ksozay said:
In my humble opinion, that is not a Cal jacket. The design is likely based on but not a Cal pattern (LAPD).

There were a number of manufacturers that made this jacket modeled on the Cal design. There were also leather repair shops that commonly fixed a jacket and replaced the original tag with their own. Likely this is the case with your jacket.

There have been many eras of Cal lapd jackets, each has a unique aspect to it that makes it identifiable for the decade it was made. Largely based on materials they were using, people who were sewing. But in all cases, they followed the same pattern. Even the belt-less, badge less options still specific design details all Cal jackets contained. Even the current version Gwen is making right now, which uses steerhide, looks very similar to the first lapds. Because they continue to use the original pattern. Leather and zippers, etc have changed but the design is the same. The leather on this jacket, rear panel, zippers, and lapels - are not consistent with the jackets I’ve ever seen/owned. Similar, but same.

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But even CAL says they've made the jacket.

Regardless, it's just not possible that anyone capable of pulling off this kind of work would not have put down their name on the tag. And I honestly can't think of any other maker capable of building a jacket of this quality. Not even any of the major players have the skill to copy a CAL jacket this well and if they did, it's something that would've been well known by now.
I mean, even Lost Worlds struggles getting it right and downright ignores some of the details that make a CAL, while this Leatherman gets every single thing exactly the same. Even the signature asymmetrical CAL collar snaps!

Leatherman

CAL

jacketjunkie · Sep 15, 2019

Monitor said:
But even CAL says they've made the jacket.

Regardless, it's just not possible that anyone capable of pulling off this kind of work would not have put down their name on the tag. And I honestly can't think of any other maker capable of building a jacket of this quality. Not even any of the major players have the skill to copy a CAL jacket this well and if they did, it's something that would've been well known by now.
I mean, even Lost Worlds struggles getting it right and downright ignores some of the details that make a CAL, while this Leatherman gets every single thing exactly the same. Even the signature asymmetrical CAL collar snaps!

Leatherman

CAL

Cal-Leather as run by Gwen today has a facebook page on which you will find pictures of jackets they made that did sport these padded shoulders and elbows. As mentioned above, it is a style very popular in the bluf scene, so most certainly different makers at different times did these kind of jackets or custom jobs for the customers in question, but Cal is one of them and I believe you can tell from details whether this is one of theirs or not. Besides, Gwen confirmed to another member on the Lounge and me they did these and then there is the jacket from that architect as shown by @Leather Walker , which also is confirmed to be a Cal.

Kalmer · Sep 15, 2019

jacketjunkie said:
Cal-Leather as run by Gwen today has a facebook page on which you will find pictures of jackets they made that did sport these padded shoulders and elbows. As mentioned above, it is a style very popular in the bluf scene, so most certainly different makers at different times did these kind of jackets or custom jobs for the customers in question, but Cal is one of them and I believe you can tell from details whether this is one of theirs or not. Besides, Gwen confirmed to another member on the Lounge and me they did these and then there is the jacket from that architect as shown by @Leather Walker , which also is confirmed to be a Cal.

That being said, this exact jacket in my original post is tagged $650 for new when it’s still available on LeatherMan’s website. Consider new Cal are at Langlitz’s price range, isn’t 650 too cheap for them?

In addition, I still feel lapel shapes in the original post are somewhat slightly different from that architect’s.

So I assume Cal worked with LeatherMan before and made that architect’s jacket. But later the collaboration ends and LeatherMan just find another maker to continue make the pattern at a relatively low price.

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ton312 · Sep 16, 2019

The label in question still operates a shop? I’ve seen these jackets on eBay but thought they had faded away...

Kalmer · Sep 16, 2019

ton312 said:
The label in question still operates a shop? I’ve seen these jackets on eBay but thought they had faded away...

I believe so. I walked passed by it in NYC a few month ago, and their website is still alive.
http://the-leather-man-inc.shoplightspeed.com/leather-gear/jackets/

I’m actually very surprised to learn that it’s such a seemingly famous and old store. Probably the current one just borrowed an old name?

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ton312 · Sep 16, 2019

I mentioned my Llad leathers (out of my home town Chicago) that produced really nice leathers that catered toward the Leatherman market. I sold this jacket for a surprisingly tidy sum. Kinda wish I’d kept it. It was similar to a 70’s era Bates. Simple design and nice fit. Point being, don’t let the jackets provenance effect your delight in wearing it.

ton312 · Sep 16, 2019

Kalmer said:
I believe so. I walked passed by it in NYC a few month ago, and their website is still alive.
http://the-leather-man-inc.shoplightspeed.com/leather-gear/jackets/

I’m actually very surprised to learn that it’s such a seemingly famous and old store. Probably the current one just borrowed an old name?

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Yeah I don’t believe that site and your jacket are related. Could be wrong. But I think no.

Kalmer · Sep 16, 2019

ton312 said:
Yeah I don’t believe that site and your jacket are related. Could be wrong. But I think no.

Well, surprise surprise!!!
At least for this one,

Check the logo.

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Monitor · Sep 16, 2019

https://web.archive.org/web/2018030...-inc.shoplightspeed.com/leather-gear/jackets/

Doesn't seem like it was recently sold online.

Monitor · Sep 16, 2019

Some good jackets there.

regius · Sep 16, 2019

Back on track now: they say it’s made “by a lady in Ohio”.

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Monitor · Sep 21, 2019

Few photos of my Cal/Leatherman (?) jacket. Same model, I mean. Confirmed by Cal to be Cal, in any case.

JMax · Sep 21, 2019

Monitor said:
Few photos of my Cal/Leatherman (?) jacket. Same model, I mean. Confirmed by Cal to be Cal, in any case.

Man, that is nice. And a very different leather than all of my Cals. Guess who just put out a bolo for such a jacket.

Leather Walker · Sep 21, 2019

Mate, cool photos of your Cal!! Very beautiful jacket!
Did Gwen tell you which time period is your jacket from?

Monitor · Sep 21, 2019

JMax said:
Man, that is nice. And a very different leather than all of my Cals. Guess who just put out a bolo for such a jacket.

You should! It's a crazy nice jacket. Leather is more shiny, actually but the sun ate it all on the photos. But it's def. more matte. Hide isn't spongy or very soft at all, just doesn't have the shiny overcoat.

Leather Walker said:
Mate, cool photos of your Cal!! Very beautiful jacket!
Did Gwen tell you which time period is your jacket from?

Something more recent, 90's or so. You should post more photos of your jacket! It's even nicer! Shinier with a brown core. Nicest I've seen!

AbbaDatDeHat · Sep 21, 2019

Monitor said:
Few photos of my Cal/Leatherman (?) jacket. Same model, I mean. Confirmed by Cal to be Cal, in any case.

Very nice Monitor! Very nice!
Cool Cal iteration. The finish on the hide is outstanding!
B

Monitor · Sep 21, 2019

Freddie definitely had the same jacket. And he wore it a lot, it would appear. Lotsa photos of it online.

Leather Walker · Sep 21, 2019

Monitor said:
Something more recent, 90's or so. You should post more photos of your jacket! It's even nicer! Shinier with a brown core. Nicest I've seen!

I wish I could take pictures so nice as yours... I'm happy with my first Cal: it weights around 8 lbs. Very thick leather.
View attachment 185609

Monitor said:
Freddie definitely had the same jacket. And he wore it a lot, it would appear. Lotsa photos of it online.

Freddie wore his Cal from 79 to 82. He picked up his jacket in Oakland during the "Jazz Tour" concert, on Dec 1978. So, it's unknown if the inner label was the original by Cal-Leather, or by another shop like Leather Forever or similar.

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