Goodwear Jackets why the attraction

CBI · Jan 7, 2020

Like Jonesy, maybe of mine were test jackets. its funny how even John's "rejects" or "not up to his standards" still look phenomenal!

handymike · Jan 7, 2020

Yeah, @jonesy86’s Hercules is phenomenal!

Brettafett · Jan 7, 2020

Edgar Laurel said:
I kind of want a GW, from the looks of the jackets posted here and on GW website they ooze quality and detail. I also trust the reviews from really passionate guys like all my dear friends from TFL. Buth the wait is just not for me...not over 2 years, 4..6! I'll check the sales page every now and then and hope for a nice 38 or 40 sized jacket to appear one lucky day.

I'm one of those passionate guys... But honestly, if you are a 38 or 40, get one of Platon's Dubows. I wear a 40 long ELC and GW, a 42 original and funny enough... a 42 in Platon's Dubow and BK's A-2s (Dubow and Roughwear). My Dubow from Platon sits side-by-side with any GW I have owned.

jchance · Dec 13, 2023

Could someone help me understand why GW preowned’s command such a higher price compared to those of LW, Aero, Eastman, or Johnson Leather of SF, for example?

Canuck Panda · Dec 13, 2023

GW jackets are rare. And they're good.

I paid similar price for my used GW and LW, around 1300 from the classifieds. I would do it again for both. If you are size 38 look for LW jackets on the Japanese used market, great deals there, but no big sizes, and no newer models.

At 1300 I would get the Johnson brand new and that money can also get a brand new Aero. Don't know about Eastman, the opportunity never came up, they also seem to increase the price too fast and too much, used to be around Aero price and now pushing RMC pricing, product didn't really change did it?

jchance · Dec 13, 2023

I’m indeed a size 38, 5’ 8 1/2 at 150 lbs, 17.75” shoulder, 38 chest, 31 waist, 15/33 shirt. I like Cossack/a1/37j1 style (button only, no zipper) and want it in a veg-tanned lighter hide, preferably unlined. The RTW options (mister freedom campus/randall, RMC dillinger) seem pretty boxy/look like bat wings with short arms, but I like a tailored slim fit with high armholes (like how a TOJ/Falco Garments jacket fit). Should I just go with GW to get the fit right, or what are my other options (I’m good with preowned for a better deal)?

Tom71 · Dec 13, 2023

jchance said:
I’m indeed a size 38, 5’ 8 1/2 at 150 lbs, 17.75” shoulder, 38 chest, 31 waist, 15/33 shirt. I like Cossack/a1/37j1 style (button only, no zipper) and want it in a veg-tanned lighter hide, preferably unlined. The RTW options (mister freedom campus/randall, RMC dillinger) seem pretty boxy/look like bat wings with short arms, but I like a tailored slim fit with high armholes (like how a TOJ/Falco Garments jacket fit). Should I just go with GW to get the fit right, or what are my other options (I’m good with preowned for a better deal)?

I am not sure that GW will offer you the fit you are after.

I only ever owned one of their jackets (bought used), and I found the cut pretty boxy, with low armholes. My attempt on discussing a custom fit failed with John consequentely ignoring my attempts at making contact (others seem to be more lucky, though).

In any event, I´d try to buy used first, instead of investing a chunk of money and unforseeable time (which may wary between 3 month and nothing after 5+ years) in a product that may not be to your liking eventually.

I myself go OTR whenever I can, and there are many makers out there with slim patterns and high armholes. As for the Coassack style, I recommend having a look at Thedi leathers. You being based in the US, why don´t you have a look at the Thurston Bros. website. They offer pre-fabricated Thedis (basically OTR) and ca sort you out should you want to go custom in the end.

I used to recommend Himel Bros. too. Their Cossack is called the "Heron" and offers a wide range of stunning hides and a great silhouette. However, Dave´s conduct re unhappy customers has been so bizarre lately, that I find it too much of an adventure, paying over USD 2.5k. I´d still maintain that his jackets are tops if the stars aline, and I am a happy customer of his.

Here´s my Thedi...

Monitor · Dec 13, 2023

What's the wait on these now?

jchance · Dec 13, 2023

Monitor said:
What's the wait on these now?

A week ago, John told me 12-14 months but I’ve read recent stories of 3-5 years

Brandrea33 · Dec 13, 2023

jchance said:
A week ago, John told me 12-14 months but I’ve read recent stories of 3-5 years

He was exactly 13 months for mine last summer.

Canuck Panda · Dec 13, 2023

jchance said:
I’m indeed a size 38, 5’ 8 1/2 at 150 lbs, 17.75” shoulder, 38 chest, 31 waist, 15/33 shirt. I like Cossack/a1/37j1 style (button only, no zipper) and want it in a veg-tanned lighter hide, preferably unlined. The RTW options (mister freedom campus/randall, RMC dillinger) seem pretty boxy/look like bat wings with short arms, but I like a tailored slim fit with high armholes (like how a TOJ/Falco Garments jacket fit). Should I just go with GW to get the fit right, or what are my other options (I’m good with preowned for a better deal)?

Take the private elevator and go straight to the penthouse:

About 750 landed, add another 250 for getting all new knits, it should be about a grand, for a like new condition FW. This particular jacket has a bit more taper down to the waist than the other type A-1.

https://item.rakuten.co.jp/goldragstation/rc_itedgnnkc3k1_r1fk/

jchance · Dec 13, 2023

Canuck Panda said:
Take the private elevator and go straight to the penthouse:
View attachment 570109
About 750 landed, add another 250 for getting all new knits, it should be about a grand, for a like new condition FW. This particular jacket has a bit more taper down to the waist than the other type A-1.

https://item.rakuten.co.jp/goldragstation/rc_itedgnnkc3k1_r1fk/

Thanks, I’ll consider that FW and do some research.

I was looking at this LW jacket for about $230, but it being chrome-tanned means I’d never see any patina in my lifetime. I also heard about LW’s tube-arm issue.

https://page.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/d1094869307

Canuck Panda · Dec 13, 2023

jchance said:
Thanks, I’ll consider that FW and do some research.

I was looking at this LW jacket for about $230, but it being chrome-tanned means I’d never see any patina in my lifetime. I also heard about LW’s tube-arm issue.

https://page.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/d1094869307

I got a LW A2 used from Japan. They run a size smaller. And the hides were thinner than the current LW stuff, a bit different finishing too. But the value (return on $) is right up there. I do think given your measurements and weight you also need a 40 in the LW. There are a lot of good deals on them on the Japan used market.

2nd street take crappy photos. you can blow up my LW A2 to see the leather. I think it's the same as the A1 youre looking at. They're pigment finished and there is a squeak.

morrison2951 · Dec 13, 2023

I've got one GW, and it's a rare Admiral Byrd beauty. It's a keeper.

handymike · Dec 14, 2023

Brandrea33 said:
He was exactly 13 months for mine last summer.

What sorcery did you perform?!?
My Hercules deposit was made in 2018.

El Marro · Dec 14, 2023

handymike said:
What sorcery did you perform?!?
My Hercules deposit was made in 2018.

Give him a call and send an email every day until you get on his radar And he responds. I have had four jackets made for me by John since 2018 and the average wait time was around 14 months. The trick is to get his attention and once you get the ball rolling things happen pretty fast if he has the leather you want to work with in hand.

Brandrea33 · Dec 14, 2023

handymike said:
What sorcery did you perform?!?
My Hercules deposit was made in 2018.

I’m not sure … lol.

I just placed the order on line and he acknowledged receipt with a brief note saying thanks and that it would be between 12-14 months. I followed up with an email at about the 12 month mark and he replied saying he was ready to begin. We had a telephone conversation the next day and voila.

handymike said:
What sorcery did you perform?!?
My Hercules deposit was made in 2018.

handymike · Dec 14, 2023

John used to send me emails about developments with his Hercules pattern. I was with him when he bought the original from Damian Monsivais at Inspiration, so I don't know how I might have "fallen off the radar". Honestly, I have bigger issues in my life at the moment, and I really don't care about leather jackets right now... but, still...

Bfd70 · Dec 14, 2023

Thedi

El Marro · Dec 14, 2023

handymike said:
John used to send me emails about developments with his Hercules pattern. I was with him when he bought the original from Damian Monsivais at Inspiration, so I don't know how I might have "fallen off the radar". Honestly, I have bigger issues in my life at the moment, and I really don't care about leather jackets right now... but, still...

I’m sure it is not personal, if you know John then you know that he is one of the nicest people out there. I did find in my dealings with him though that he always had too much on his plate and the squeaky wheel gets the oil, or the attention in this case.
On another note, I own one of his Hercules jackets and it is my least favorite, and least comfortable to wear. If I were you, I would have him build your jacket off the Ventura pattern and incorporate the Hercules details you like into the jacket. It will still look like a Hercules, but it will actually be a pleasure to wear.

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