Cxl

I wanted to share this, ive been looking at leather ,tannery row ect. I found a place in the u.k. that has heavy cxl horsehide at 11.04 a square ft. Its 4/5 ounce. Dhf, . The shf cxl is 10.04 square ft. I just haven't seen 4/5 ounce cxl horsehide offered from another tannery/distributor. Its a a crack & sons

ton312 said:

Damn....
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There are companies that would sew you a jacket out of this. the jacket would weight in the 6kg range

I love LW but next to a CXL jacket, as quality and weatherproof as it is, their HH looks (and smells) like it's made out of rubber.

Monitor said:

I love LW but next to a CXL jacket, as quality and weatherproof as it is, their HH looks (and smells) like it's made out of rubber.

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I agree. Dreadnought black is the best of LW imho...but it's extremely flat. That's kind of the point I suppose.

6kg? What's the point.....

ton312 said:

I agree. Dreadnought black is the best of LW imho...but it's extremely flat. That's kind of the point I suppose.

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It's definitely a good, insanely sturdy and durable leather and it looks very nice and recent examples are displaying some nice texture too but it just doesn't even comes close to CX. Two very different beasts, I suppose. LW won't scuff and it will look new much longer which isn't to say CX won't last as long.

But yeah, Lost Worlds will make you one of the best jackets money can buy, that I can testify to as well. Unlike many other makers that charge $1K+ for their jackets, Lost Worlds is worth their money. And also, I may be wrong but I've noticed that they hold the best value on the 2nd hand market. For a good reason, too.

Hh121 said:

6kg? What's the point.....

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Yeah, what's the point? It's at least 2 kilos more than necessary for wearing pleasure.

8 lbs is sweet spot for winter jacket while 6 lbs is for spring /fall

Have you tried just contacting Horween directly?

AeroFan_07 said:

Have you tried just contacting Horween directly?

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Tannery Row is the retail arm of Horween that deals directly with the general public for smaller orders. Unless you are ordering a whole herd of cowhide I think that is who you talk to.

Ah, I see! Thanks for the heads up...

I order from Tannery Row and yes, for enough CXL for a jacket you are going to need to buy a full side. Depending on what kind you are buying and how much, plus the shipping and handling, you may be in around 200-300, but they keep black, natural, color 8, and brown CXL in stock pretty much at all times. I got a really good limited run on a green Rockford Dublin side (this one was 17.4 sq ft) for like 200 after the shipping charges, but I also had some shell cordovan on the order so not sure how much more that added to it. I tend to not use CXL for things I make too often anymore, but it is still my favorite for a jacket leather.

If you keep an eye on their instagram they often post some cool small batch colors as well. They aren't always CXL, but if you decide on the weight you need and keep your eye out, you may see something truly unique pop. The only issue with buying by the side is that they need to be able to split it easily if it is too heavy for a jacket. I am not too well versed in industrial splitters, but i know most nice splitters that the suppliers I tend to use have are restricted by size (around 7 sq feet at a time), so you have to cut up the leather, and then split it. If you find something in 6oz and need it reduced for a jacket you may find yourself in a situation where you have to buy multiple sides because if they can't split the whole thing at once, and that impacts the yield you get because you are limiting your size for patterns and can end up with more waste. And as we all know here color can vary a bit by hide and batch so there could be slight color variance, but if it came out of the same drum, it probably wouldn't be an issue. They are pretty helpful at tannery row if you reach out with questions. I have never asked them to split a side, so it may be possible to have them do it before they ship it.

That said, like mentioned above, it may be cheaper to just have the jacket maker do it because they are buying in higher quantities and probably getting a discount. However, if you saw a CXL side that was a limited run on there that would make a great jacket, it may be worth the extra money depending how much you like the color. The thought has crossed my mind 9 or 10 times to ask Aero if I send them the CXL if they will make the jacket, but waiting to see the perfect option cross my path.

Cheers!

Yes horween actually forwarded my email i sent to them to tannery row, the cxl cow/steer is 235 a full side, the cxl horsehide is 12.60 a ft. I was told i need at least 40 square feet to make a 44 ish, pit 23.5, 26 sleeves, 19 shoulder, 26 back ( just threw some #s that worked for me) . The a a crack &sons is actually cheaper cxl horsehide at 10.4 a ft. And they are in the u.k.! But shipping price would probably even out the total. I think that heavy horsehide is cool but im going to stay around 3.5 on this guy. And the reason im looking around for cxl to buy on my own is that the maker doesn't stock cxl. Cxl is a leather ive grown fond of, especially the #8 hh that is on that schott 623h i just sold, going cxl on this one is definitely an upcharge, aero, jl, schott, ect makers that use cxl dont have the pattern i want, its a special pattern that i can't disclose right now obviously it will be revealed in due time. Im "trying" my best to wean down to having a practical # of jackets. When i have more than 5 i don't know? i feel like its to much. I also know that if i have fewer jackets i will be forced to wear them more often instead of maybe once a week rotating. Imo a jacket always looks the coolest when you just wear the shoot out of it, drag it through life. Its hard to do that if i have so many choices, "force my hand" kinda deal. I recently went from 7 to 3 jackets , and now have 3, But i have 1 paid for and being made which moves it to 4. And now im working on this "project" which will make it 5. I dont know guys, im sure y'all have similar experiences routinely, thats why its nice to share this madness with like minded individuals who share our common interests/hobbies. More to come.

^^ Sounds like a cool little adventure there!

John D Maccarter said:

Yes horween actually forwarded my email i sent to them to tannery row, the cxl cow/steer is 235 a full side, the cxl horsehide is 12.60 a ft. I was told i need at least 40 square feet to make a 44 ish, pit 23.5, 26 sleeves, 19 shoulder, 26 back ( just threw some #s that worked for me) . The a a crack &sons is actually cheaper cxl horsehide at 10.4 a ft. And they are in the u.k.! But shipping price would probably even out the total. I think that heavy horsehide is cool but im going to stay around 3.5 on this guy. And the reason im looking around for cxl to buy on my own is that the maker doesn't stock cxl. Cxl is a leather ive grown fond of, especially the #8 hh that is on that schott 623h i just sold, going cxl on this one is definitely an upcharge, aero, jl, schott, ect makers that use cxl dont have the pattern i want, its a special pattern that i can't disclose right now obviously it will be revealed in due time. Im "trying" my best to wean down to having a practical # of jackets. When i have more than 5 i don't know? i feel like its to much. I also know that if i have fewer jackets i will be forced to wear them more often instead of maybe once a week rotating. Imo a jacket always looks the coolest when you just wear the shoot out of it, drag it through life. Its hard to do that if i have so many choices, "force my hand" kinda deal. I recently went from 7 to 3 jackets , and now have 3, But i have 1 paid for and being made which moves it to 4. And now im working on this "project" which will make it 5. I dont know guys, im sure y'all have similar experiences routinely, thats why its nice to share this madness with like minded individuals who share our common interests/hobbies. More to come.

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Probably a good call on the 3.5. For some reason, I love heavy jackets too, but I am curious if they gave you a weight limity they will work with on the jacket as well. Once you get too thick, they may be hesitant just because it would really press the limits of the machine and the likelihood of a misstitch goes up or a stray hole because it struggled to stay straight. I never did ask the oz they used on mine, but for a heavy jacket, I think 3.5 is a nice sweet spot keeping in mind they have to skive and fold it over itself as well which isn't as much fun on thicker leather. On the plus side, I do some some really nice ~3oz options from time to time and they also have stuff they don't even post, so keep us posted on this. I have some really cool brown variations and now I am more interested in doing something like this, but I am trying to follow a 1 in 1 out rule....emphasis on trying....