Schott 370 Duke Oiled Roughout Jacket

Mrfrown · Feb 10, 2020

Hey all, this is my first post outside of the What Jacket Are You Wearing Today thread. I wanted to share more about this totally sweet unlined jacket from Schott after seeing the reaction to a recent posting for one in the classifieds.

The rundown-
Maker: Schott
Model: 370 "Duke"
Style: Classic Trucker or Highwayman style
Composition: Unlined Oiled Roughout Steerhide
Size: Medium (my specs 5'9" 170#, 40" chest, no beer belly)

Thoughts-
I had been looking for a rough out jacket that I could afford. RRL and some smaller makers have offerings that go for well over $1000 used, and my budget isnt big enough to swing for them. Schott discounted this model when they introduced the newer 375 which has lined sleeves and a different cut (and possibly un-oiled leather?).

Pulling the sleeves on does require modest effort, but its very comfortable once on. The rough out is full of character and very robust. Interesting how different parts of the trim have different length nap, I've tried to show in pictures. I got hit with a light rain and it did fine, just had to rough the nap back up.

I'll update this thread with pics down the line as a get more use and break it in more.

Let me know if there's anything else I can share for your interest.

View attachment 212125

handymike · Feb 10, 2020

What a great looking jacket!

Mrfrown · Feb 10, 2020

Oh and here are a few outdoors

patrick_b · Feb 10, 2020

I have a soft spot for the Schott Duke. Love the idea of a completely unlined, roughout jacket. Looks great on ya!

ton312 · Feb 11, 2020

I really like it! Great fit ad it looks rugged as Hell.

Gamma68 · Feb 14, 2020

I've admired this jacket for a while now. Glad to see a thread dedicated to it. The jacket looks great on you, @Mrfrown. I'd like to get one myself.

Mrfrown · Feb 14, 2020

Thanks @Gamma68 and all!

I would be interested to see more about roughout jackets in general. Perhaps I could alter the title of this thread or start a new one to invite more discussion. What do y’all think?

Gamma68 · Feb 14, 2020

What's the difference, if any, between "roughout" and "suede"?

Mrfrown · Feb 14, 2020

Both are the hair side of the hide, with the hair cut short. I think people generally use suede to refer to softer and/or shorter nap hides, and rough out to refer to tougher, often longer nap hides.

There is a chance with suede that they may split the hide to thin it, which increases softness and drape at the expense of durability. True full-thickness roughout should be just as rugged as any other leather, and all that texture can do an admirable job of hiding scapes and dings to the leather.

An easy example is comparing Red Wing shoe leathers- all are generally considered ready for rough wear, they just show the wear differently

Mrfrown · Feb 14, 2020

Here is their Hawthorne Muleskinner worn vs new

Here is their Oro Legacy worn vs new

I’d love to see some good wear pictures on roughout jackets someone has gotten good use out of.

AeroFan_07 · Feb 14, 2020

Sure looks nice! Neat take on a very classic design.

Blackadder · Feb 14, 2020

Mrfrown said:
Both are the hair side of the hide, with the hair cut short. I think people generally use suede to refer to softer and/or shorter nap hides, and rough out to refer to tougher, often longer nap hides.

There is a chance with suede that they may split the hide to thin it, which increases softness and drape at the expense of durability. True full-thickness roughout should be just as rugged as any other leather, and all that texture can do an admirable job of hiding scapes and dings to the leather.

An easy example is comparing Red Wing shoe leathers- all are generally considered ready for rough wear, they just show the wear differently

"The majority of the time a more popular method is used where the leather is split and the upper grain is removed to reveal only the fuzzy, napped underside which then becomes visible on both sides of the fabric." It is not just the thinning that makes it less durable, it has to do with the removal of the upper grain layer which has the tightest collagen bundle. Even with full grain leather, the leather is always split to a thickness required e.g. You still require a certain thickness to make suede shoes.

Mrfrown · Feb 14, 2020

@Blackadder thanks for the clarification! I had read that info a while back when I first started buying nice leather shoes- and forgot the particulars while remembering the gist

patrick_b · Feb 16, 2020

I picked one up too thanks to this thread. Loving it so far especially at almost 40% off. just a couple left in xxl left.

Thanks for the heads up @Mrfrown.

navetsea · Feb 16, 2020

I guess, when it is called rough out then there must be smooth side/ grain side in. While suede is probably has no smooth/ finished side on the other side.

composite · Mar 3, 2020

Hi. newbie here with maybe an elementary question. I recently purchased a roughout Schott jacket over the internet from a reputable ecommerce site. This is the second leather jacket I've bought and the first in 20 years. The jacket has a strong, well, leather like, odor to it.

It's made my entire closet smell like a leather factory. I called Schott and they said that's normal for a roughout jacket and seemed surprised with my question in the first place. Is that so? Is this a normal experience with roughout jackets? One of the reviews on the jacket on the Schott website mentioned briefly a "leather smell" so it made me think if that's the case. If so, will the smell eventually fade away like a new car smell? Or is this permanent?

I really like the jacket otherwise, and I'd rather not return it but I don't know if I can handle this smell.

HoosierDaddy · Mar 3, 2020

Put it on a nice wooden hanger and hang it outside for a few days. If the smell doesn't weaken and fade after a week or so, it probably won't.
HD

Mrfrown · Mar 3, 2020

For what it’s worth, I got mine from a dealer that had it for some time before selling it to me and I didn’t have any overwhelming leather smells with mine.

So it seems likely that HD’s recommendation should do ya good.

composite · Mar 3, 2020

Thanks. I'll try that.

Seb Lucas · Mar 3, 2020

I bought a brand new jacket once that smelt strongly of leather chemical tanning. Awful. Almost gave me nasal bleed. Hung the jacket outdoors for five weeks and nothing changed. Gave it to a thrift shop.

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