Questions About the United States Navy Peacoat

Spoonbelly · Mar 23, 2020

busstonedfx said:
it's for sure addicting,. I went from not knowing anything, to borderline obsessed, seeking specific years in a coat that wouldn't even fit me at the moment lol

It seems 32r is pretty rare too, and it makes me feel like hoarding coats for the very same reason you mentioned... one to wear... one spare in mint condition "just in case"... what if I can't find it anymore... what if this is the last 32r that goes up on ebay?!

eBay is pretty good about protecting buyers recently... makes it more likely to buy the coat "just to see" with no risk of returns, but with that, I risk wanting to just keep it, and then a coat collection will begin..

one of each in 34r.... "just in case" I get fat,,,

it seems 34r is a lot more common and because of that, i find myself more and more wanting to find a 34r kersey in better condition than the one I have now...and with the dmg I feel like that seller took me, too, with the deceptive photos (a small moth hole in the back, damaged lining).... I have the opportunity for a full refund to spend that cash on a mint 32r or 34r... but at the moment I find myself getting attached to it while waiting for the 32r's, just because of the pristine 62' tag on the 34r seems pretty rare....

when maybe I shouldn't because the rest of the coat is damaged (and is too big for me), and in a common size that I could get almost mint (probably not 62') for a cheaper price...

I just need to find that ONE coat, in the PERFECT size, and a special year... that is in good condition (someone's name written on the tag seems to be a glaring imperfection for me, or else I think that postwar 45' in a 32r that's on the way would cure my budding addiction) and I can stop going on eBay

I'm scared of asking the question, because then I'm gonna find myself looking for something I don't even know exists at the moment.......
but....

why the '58?

just read on the dating guide that 49' is the nicest finish that Peacoat has ever seen... what's so special about the year 58? is it because it says "US Navy" explicitly? That's why I'm hesitating to return this 62....

The 1949 coats have an exceptional, beautiful Kersey material. I would say very dense, thick and velvetlike. I bought one for my wife but she wasn't interested in it at all ( go figure? ) so I wound up reselling it on eaBy. I currently have a WWII, and a 1950 or a 1951? Both are great Kerseys but still they are not a '49. As for the '58. I have a '58 in size 46(R). Once again I feel that 1958 is an exceptional year. The coat weighs a ton, probably heavier then my other coats which range from WWII - 1969. The sewing and detailing seems to be a higher quality then my other coats. As for the size. I prefer a Long over the R sizes

busstonedfx · Mar 23, 2020

your pick between the '49 and '58? just curious- if i see any of those in a 46l in my searches i'll let you know... I've been living on eBay

so my 1980's melton in 32r arrived: https://imgur.com/a/f6mMGYI

the 80's melton in 32r is too small (p2p: 17" shoulders 16.5", sleeves: 25" )... it feels TIGHT compared to the 62 kersey in 34r.... it doesn't fit me.... (and kersey is 1000% better, no question) gotta send this back...

the 62' kersey in 34r is too big (p2p: 19", shoulders:18", sleeves: 26") .

and what confuses me the most, is that an S civilian peacoat that fits me PERFECTLY measures : p2p: 21",shoulders, 17". sleeves: 26"....

https://imgur.com/a/Jn1Dn0p (62' kersey in 34r on left, civilian S on right)

1940's 34r's would be a tighter fight than a 60's 34r? .. I fear that the 45' in 32r will be also too small when it arrives.... the auction listed it as P2P: 16.5", shoulders: 17", sleeves: 24"

@Peacoat do you have any insight on what size I should be seeking? Always too big, rather than too small, is what I was thinking... so I should be looking for only 34r, regardless of era, right? I'd NEVER fit in a 36....

Or should I begin looking at getting something altered?.I hear shoulders are the WORST place to get alterations done... but if that kersey had 17" shoulders instead of 18" it would be PERFECT..but i'd rather not destroy a part of history if I can avoid it... the 45' Kersey will have 17" shoulders, but 16.5" p2p and 24" sleeves sounds small....

What would you do? thank you, and sorry to keep bothering you..

should I make a new thread? I don't wanna hijack the navypeacoat thread with individual sizing and altering questions...

Cornelius · Mar 23, 2020

Love all the info on this thread. Now I'll never settle until I find a 1949 in 40L, free of moth damage. My Grandpa's WWII-issue stopped fitting me somewhere around the 5th Grade - he was a CPO with the SeaBees in the South Pacific.

Peacoat · Mar 23, 2020

Cornelius said:
Love all the info on this thread. Now I'll never settle until I find a 1949 in 40L, free of moth damage. My Grandpa's WWII-issue stopped fitting me somewhere around the 5th Grade - he was a CPO with the SeaBees in the South Pacific.

Might be a long time finding that 1949 40 L. I don't think they made long sizes back then. I've never seen one, or heard of one. Although I will say one of our members found a long size in a 60s model, I think it was, shortly after I said they weren't made in long sizes during the 60s. Or it could have been a 70s model, I don't remember for sure. But the point is I had never seen one and thought they didn't exist. Then one popped up.

@busstonedfx: I don't have much advice for you. Your experience defies all metrics known to man. What you could do is wear the civilian model until you grow into the '63 Kersey. Or get into custom leather jackets.

No need to start a new thread. I could start one if I thought it was needed and then move the relevant posts there.

Spoonbelly · Mar 24, 2020

busstonedfx said:
your pick between the '49 and '58? just curious- if i see any of those in a 46l in my searches i'll let you know... I've been living on eBay

so my 1980's melton in 32r arrived: https://imgur.com/a/f6mMGYI

the 80's melton in 32r is too small (p2p: 17" shoulders 16.5", sleeves: 25" )... it feels TIGHT compared to the 62 kersey in 34r.... it doesn't fit me.... (and kersey is 1000% better, no question) gotta send this back...

the 62' kersey in 34r is too big (p2p: 19", shoulders:18", sleeves: 26") .

and what confuses me the most, is that an S civilian peacoat that fits me PERFECTLY measures : p2p: 21",shoulders, 17". sleeves: 26"....

https://imgur.com/a/Jn1Dn0p (62' kersey in 34r on left, civilian S on right)

1940's 34r's would be a tighter fight than a 60's 34r? .. I fear that the 45' in 32r will be also too small when it arrives.... the auction listed it as P2P: 16.5", shoulders: 17", sleeves: 24"

@Peacoat do you have any insight on what size I should be seeking? Always too big, rather than too small, is what I was thinking... so I should be looking for only 34r, regardless of era, right? I'd NEVER fit in a 36....

Or should I begin looking at getting something altered?.I hear shoulders are the WORST place to get alterations done... but if that kersey had 17" shoulders instead of 18" it would be PERFECT..but i'd rather not destroy a part of history if I can avoid it... the 45' Kersey will have 17" shoulders, but 16.5" p2p and 24" sleeves sounds small....

What would you do? thank you, and sorry to keep bothering you..

should I make a new thread? I don't wanna hijack the navypeacoat thread with individual sizing and altering questions...

I could be wrong, but I also don't think they made Longs in '49 or '58. I don't know what year they started to make Longs, but I have two Kersey 1969 coats in 46Long. I remember a while back that someone said they thought Longs were started in 1962 as the 1962 tag states an R (regular) there might be a corresponding size for L(ong). I also believe that was an assumption as we have not seen any 1962 tags stating L(ong) Just another two cents - the Kersey on my '58 is comparable to the Kersey material on my other Kersey coats. I've also noticed something. I have my coats hanging next to each other in my "mothball closet". When comparing them to each other you can see very small differences between each coat as to very sleight shades of color and material texture.

busstonedfx · Mar 27, 2020

So in case anyone who has been following my peacoat journey is curious:

This 66' kersey I got today in 34 fits like a glove, a bit tighter than my liking... if I wear a sweater under it, or gain 5 pounds, it probably will feel too tight to be comfortable..but 100% gonna keep this for spring/autumn!

This is the 66 (34r):
https://imgur.com/a/X8cENwf

18" p2p, 25" sleeves, 17" shoulders.. 1966 34r is exactly 1 inch shorter in every measurement than the 1962 34r (19" p2p, 26" sleeves, 18" shoulders)

This is the 62 (34r):
https://imgur.com/a/Euz3Bhw

I sent back the 1962 34r last week.. part of me regrets it, part doesn't..
The 62 seemed to have better, thicker wool. Can't directly compare, as I sent it back already, but just from memory, and feeling. Maybe it felt heavier because there was just more material because it was bigger..

I hope someone else fixed that and enjoys it. it felt 2 sizes too big... i would have been fine with 1 size too big...
If it was .5 inches smaller in every measurement, and not so damaged, it would have been my grail coat... and I'd be done searching..

busstonedfx · Mar 28, 2020

The 1945 in 32 arrived this morning:

https://imgur.com/a/4PkNfNN

It's tighter than the 66' 34r... the 1945 size 32 measures 17" p2p, 25.5" sleeves, 17" shoulders... I have difficulty buttoning it, and if it was buttoned, i wouldn't be able to give anyone a hug comfortably

I don't need 2 "tight" peacoats... but I kinda have no choice but to keep it (seller didn't accept returns) and it's in damn near mint condition....

Thanks all for the help... guess I'm not done w. eBay just yet like I'd hoped. Got 2 tight fitting coats, in slightly different sizes.... and still gonna search for one for "deep winter" (in a good year), one that I can freely move, and breathe, with a sweater/hoodie, and even a scarf under it... looking for something. that is a size between the 62' 34r and the 66' 34r...

AbbaDatDeHat · Mar 28, 2020

busstonedfx said:
The 1945 in 32 arrived this morning:

https://imgur.com/a/4PkNfNN

It's tighter than the 66' 34r... the 1945 size 32 measures 17" p2p, 25.5" sleeves, 17" shoulders... I have difficulty buttoning it...

I don't need 2 "tight" peacoats... but I kinda have no choice but to keep it (seller didn't accept returns) and it's in damn near mint condition....

Thanks all for the help... guess I'm not done w. eBay just yet like I'd hoped. Got 2 tight fitting coats, in slightly different sizes.... and still gonna search for one for "deep winter" (in a good year), one that I can freely move, and breathe, with a sweater/hoodie, and even a scarf under it... looking for something. that is a size between the 62' 34r and the 66' 34r...

That one looks like your best fit to date to me. It certainly does not look tight across the back in your pics. I’d say you nailed the fit. Nothing like a peacoat that is form fitting. The proof is in how it feels. You will know immediately when it’s right.
That one looks right to me. Imho
Great coat.
Ymmv
B

busstonedfx · Mar 28, 2020

thanks for the reply- i agree that it looks right, but i couldn't lift my arms or hug someone with it buttoned without feeling like i'm gonna break it.... definitely can't wear a thick sweater with it.... is this how it should be? with it unbuttoned.... it fits pretty nice

there's a fine line between perfect, and too small..... one of those times i wish i could just walk into a store and try things on in front of a mirror....
really i don't know what to do anymore, i wish i could keep them all.....

now i am undecided.... again! lol... i didn't know I was so picky before i started shopping for these coats..

Can anyone else help me decide? i keep bouncing between the 32 and 34.... everyone i ask is giving me a different opinion... i don't know what to do anymore lol

i was a jeans/hoodie kid before this so i can't decide on my own hhahah

the lighting makes the coats look diff colors, but they are identical, and the one on the right needs a dry cleaning...

https://imgur.com/a/IHozX8r
left or right? entertaining all opinions ;P
reallllllly trying not to keep both- or maybe i should keep both and gtfo of eBay finally and stop chasing the peacoat dragon

thank you all for your patience

...

Richard Screech · Mar 28, 2020

From the photo of you with the 1945 32 peacoat buttoned up the collar doesn’t look quite right.

Is it possible the buttons have been moved at some time ?

A close look to both the outside and inside of the coat might show signs of where the buttons were originally fixed.

Even if they haven’t if you were to move them yourself, something which can easily be done at home, it could well give the little more room you need to make it a better and more comfortable fit.

busstonedfx · Mar 28, 2020

thank you for the reply-
the collar just was laid wrong in the picture, it seems okay on a second inspection here- I don't believe the buttons were moved....

I actually think the person I bought this coat from was a woman, and she wore the coat opening the other way, somewhat relaxing the way the lapel laid when I wore it "like a man"

I think after a dry cleaning and pressing, it will lay perfect again

I was thinking about going to the tailor with it when this quarantine is over, but wouldn't it be a sin to alter a 75 year old coat that's in mint condition :0 but yea... moving the buttons isn't a bad idea... how obvious do you think the holes would be, if I were to go this route?

another reason to keep them both :0

RDS · Mar 29, 2020

Although not exactly found everyday there are still a considerable number of vintage peacoats in mint/excellent condition around, so I would say making any alterations for them to be worn is certainly more than acceptable.

As the buttons are a good large size moving them an inch or so often means they actually cover the original position. Even if they are moved a little further a bit of gentle brushing and a damp cloth can cause the original holes to become not really noticeable.

busstonedfx · Mar 29, 2020

thinking moving these buttons like 1/4 or 1/2 on each side would make this more comfortable, just worried it would mess w the way the jacket lays on a body... gonna see what a tailor says ! thank you for the reply

Spoonbelly · Mar 29, 2020

busstonedfx said:
thinking moving these buttons like 1/4 or 1/2 on each side would make this more comfortable, just worried it would mess w the way the jacket lays on a body... gonna see what a tailor says ! thank you for the reply

Moving the buttons a 1/4 - 1/2 inch is not much, and probably wouldn't be enough. Why not bring it to a decent tailor and see what they say?

Peacoat · Mar 29, 2020

The buttons can be moved about an inch without disturbing the symmetry of the coat, but do what Spoon says and take it to a tailor. He's the professional; we're just amateurs.

busstonedfx · Mar 29, 2020

I'll do that if there's a decent tailor still open for sure.... this coronavirus thing shut my city down... i guess moving the buttons would be a last resort...

there's no rush on this, moving the buttons would have been an instant, cheap fix

with all this time on my hands now after getting laid off, until these coats are dry cleaned, and fit, i seem to still be mentally preoccupied with this peacoat mission, it's like a splinter in my brain, an unfinished project staring at me...

at least i scratched the itch of pea-coat buying- got 2 nice ones.... i won't buy another.. gotta stay off eBay.... but I got to try on 3 different kerseys and a melton in the process!

time to start shopping for a reputable tailor

Peacoat · Mar 29, 2020

Something about the symmetry on the size 32 1945 coat just doesn't look right. Those buttons may have been moved to give it a tighter fit. If so, the symmetry and the fit will be improved by moving them back. Let us know how this plays out.

busstonedfx · Mar 31, 2020

regretfully, i wound up sending the 32 back... it looked good on me, but i couldn't move in it, and couldn't justify the cost of altering it... nor did i really want to, deep down. i messaged the seller and we worked out a deal, and i sent it back because they had someone else already lined up to re-buy it... i got a '66 in 34r that fits me comfortably that i can move and breathe in while buttoned... i'm happy. Thanks to peacoat, spoon, abba, rds, rich and cornelius for the info and opinions, that's why i love this place
gonna secretly be looking for a '49 now

busstonedfx · Apr 1, 2020

I was considering bringing another coat I had to the tailor, to mimic these coats....

but I also was considering lining the pocket with flannel/moleskin instead of corduory.

Would one be better suited than the other?

Corduroy is more durable, but flannel is warmer, softer, and more comfortable on the skin?

Is this correct? anyone have any suggestions?

Thanks guys

Peacoat · Apr 1, 2020

Whatever material is in the pocket now is probably the best. The pockets are plenty warm as is, and if it is really cold you would be wearing gloves anyway.

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