Shinki vs Badalassi - elasticity

Will Zach · Apr 4, 2020

From the department of obscure information - I had some swatches of Badalassi cowhide and Shinki horseshide and was cutting 1/4"-in strips from them to make zipper pulls.

I stretched a Badalassi strip like you would a rubber band and was surprised how stretchy it was - must have stretched at least 10-15%! Maybe 20. Really stretchy.

Shinki, on the other hand, did not stretch almost at all, which may be due it higher density as horsehide, and the fact that the slow tanning process Shinki uses shrinks the hide by up to 30%, making it even denser.

Anyway, thought I'd share that (probably not very useful) tidbit.

Marc mndt · Nov 9, 2020

I am thinking of Tobacco Badalassi for my next custom build. Because horsehide is more dense than cowhide, I was expecting it to be more elastic. Therefore I asked for some badalassi samples, just to get a feel of it's temper.

I received some samples and I must say, it's quite the opposite. The Badalassi samples are really stiff, they hardly strech at all. They do feel a bit spongier than full aniline Shinky horsehide, but the elasticity is pretty much the same.

If I compare the badalassi sample with a sample of pigment dyed Shinki, the Shinki is actually much more elastic.

Next I compared these two pigment dyed Shinki samples.

Both are from their current medium brown offering but from different hides. The granier sample on the right stretches more than the sample on the left, even though both are the same thickness. For the record, all of the above mentioned samples are 1.2 -1.3 mm thickness.

Then there's this Italian Horsehide sample.

As you can see it stretches like a rubber band.

I also have samples of Italian horsehide which don't strech at all. I could go on and on comparing one sample to another but I guess there's just one conclusion. Elasticity veries from one hide to another, doesn't matter whether it's cow or horse.

Monitor · Nov 9, 2020

Hide matters of course but the biggest problem is the usage of the name Shinki as an umbrella term for any leather that comes out of Shinki Hikaku tannery.

Same as Horween, Shinki Hikaku produces a lot of leather, tanned using many different methods. Some jacket/boot makers work in budget Shinki while others use their highest grade hide (Real McCoy, for instance).

The two samples you're comparing most likely aren't even tanned the same way. Heck, one could be veg tanned, while the other is chrome tanned. Shinki does both. Sometimes at once.

Horsehide and cowhide will stretch all the same, if tanned the same way. Or won't.

Marc mndt · Nov 9, 2020

Monitor said:
The two samples you're comparing most likely aren't even tanned the same way. Heck, one could be veg tanned, while the other is chrome tanned.

Sorry I should have mentioned that. I compared the vegetable tanned Badalassi with vegetable tanned Shinki.

Harris HTM · Nov 9, 2020

Marc mndt said:
I am thinking of Tobacco Badalassi for my next custom build.

It's a great leather but keep in mind it is squeaky! At least mine is (Aero Teamster).

Marc mndt · Nov 9, 2020

Harris HTM said:
It's a great leather but keep in mind it is squeaky! At least mine is (Aero Teamster).

Does it get less squeaky over time?

dudewuttheheck · Nov 9, 2020

Badalassi is indeed very squeaky, but it's a great leather despite that.

Harris HTM · Nov 9, 2020

Marc mndt said:
Does it get less squeaky over time?

Due to the pandemic (and the abundance of leather jackets at home..) I haven't worn mine that much; I have noticed that it has become less shiny but I haven't noticed any difference in sound. I think there are members here who have worn their badalassi jackets more, maybe they can chime in. But as @dudewuttheheck said: it is a great leather. Let me know if you need any photo's/video's.

Marc mndt · Nov 9, 2020

Harris HTM said:
Let me know if you need any photo's/video's.

I always love to see photo's of beautiful leather.

Jin431 · Nov 9, 2020

Marc mndt said:
I am thinking of Tobacco Badalassi for my next custom build. Because horsehide is more dense than cowhide, I was expecting it to be more elastic. Therefore I asked for some badalassi samples, just to get a feel of it's temper.

I received some samples and I must say, it's quite the opposite. The Badalassi samples are really stiff, they hardly strech at all. They do feel a bit spongier than full aniline Shinky horsehide, but the elasticity is pretty much the same.

If I compare the badalassi sample with a sample of pigment dyed Shinki, the Shinki is actually much more elastic.

Next I compared these two pigment dyed Shinki samples. View attachment 278877
Both are from their current medium brown offering but from different hides. The granier sample on the right stretches more than the sample on the left, even though both are the same thickness. For the record, all of the above mentioned samples are 1.2 -1.3 mm thickness.

Then there's this Italian Horsehide sample.
View attachment 278878
As you can see it stretches like a rubber band.

I also have samples of Italian horsehide which don't strech at all. I could go on and on comparing one sample to another but I guess there's just one conclusion. Elasticity veries from one hide to another, doesn't matter whether it's cow or horse.

Good luck with the next build! Badalassi will be a great addition to your outerwear collection. What pattern will it be this time?

My tobacco badalassi STF BL was stiff at first but not even close when compared with Horween CXL. I didn't get any bruises or redness on my shoulder/arms. The leather will need to be broken in but it's not bad at all as it's pretty easy to wear and will mold easily to your frame. The sleeves will crease so make the sleeve length slightly longer (maybe 0.25-0.5") depending how you like it.

YES, there will be some squeaking involved. The squeaks have gotten better over time but it's going to be there. It might bother you at first if you compare it to greg's shinki but honestly the leather is so nice that's the only knock I have with mine.

Marc mndt · Nov 9, 2020

Jin431 said:
What pattern will it be this time?

I'm incorporating a couple of design features I've seen on other jackets into one jacket. One of them are these slanted handwarmer pockets with arched stitch lines. I see a lot of those lately on both leather and non-leather jackets but I think they are all based on a vtg Windward design.

Jin431 · Nov 9, 2020

^^ alright that's a nice touch! That would look great with the tobacco badalassi

handymike · Nov 9, 2020

The cording detail is really nice- better than just the stitching alone. The Rainbow Country got that right...along with a nice collar shape.

Marc mndt · Nov 9, 2020

handymike said:
The cording detail is really nice- better than just the stitching alone. The Rainbow Country got that right...along with a nice collar shape.

A spread collar is definitely something I want. I'm still in doubt whether or not to include piping/cording. I haven't seen Rainbow Country's version yet. Do you have a picture?

Harris HTM · Nov 9, 2020

Marc mndt said:
I always love to see photo's of beautiful leather.

There you go. No idea why the photos from my cell phone are rotated though.

handymike · Nov 9, 2020

Marc mndt said:
A spread collar is definitely something I want. I'm still in doubt whether or not to include piping/cording. I haven't seen Rainbow Country's version yet. Do you have a picture?

You posted it in your collage

Marc mndt · Nov 9, 2020

handymike said:
You posted it in your collage
View attachment 278945

I got this one from Mushman's website. Are Mushman's and RC one and the same?

Marc mndt · Nov 9, 2020

Harris HTM said:
There you go. No idea why the photos from my cell phone are rotated though.
View attachment 278940 View attachment 278941 View attachment 278942 View attachment 278943

Beautiful! I love the richness and depth of the color.

Harris HTM · Nov 9, 2020

Marc mndt said:
Beautiful! I love the richness and depth of the color.

In person it is even better.

jeo · Nov 9, 2020

Marc mndt said:
Are Mushman's and RC one and the same?

Mushmans is a clothing store. Rainbow Country is a maker. Mushmans do collaborations with Rainbow Country (as well as other brands too) sometimes. The above referenced jacket is one of them.

Shinki vs Badalassi - elasticity

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