Buco Jacket Restoration

Camaro1967 · Apr 21, 2020

Hey all-

Sorry if this has been asked and answered elsewhere. I've been looking for some insight and I am interested in anyone's experiences concerning Buco jacket restorations.

Given how popular Buco is, whether the hype is merited or not, I suspect there are quite a few collectors and aficionados out there who have invested into restoring a vintage piece or two versus opting for a repro.

I'm also asking because I have a few vintage pieces myself and I'm on the fence about whether it's worth restoring some or all of them. I know this hobby isn't cheap and there is diminishing returns involved to all of this.

I've asked around and had some personal experiences, too, like Johnson Leathers, Leather Care USA, and Leather Care Specialists. But none of these folks exclusively deal with Buco and I suspect some of the Buco owners on this forum may have had other experiences and possible recommendations.

So, a few questions come to mind:

1) Assuming the leather shell is still intact and serviceable, what's a full restoration (e.g. relining, restitching, cleaning, and conditioning) going to cost?

2) Who would you recommend for a vintage jacket restoration?

3) Just for the fun of it, what's your favorite Buco jacket?

Thanks in advance.

tmitchell59 · Apr 22, 2020

3. I like the first edtion with the Buffalo plaid lining. I don't know the numbers. I had a Diamond Dave Repro of the model. I did own a Police model in steerhide. Still in service with another forum member.

1. There seem to be plenty of nice Buco jackets out there. I would weigh that in comparison to cost of a restoration. If you assume good solid leather than the restoration is on the lining, zippers, snaps, stitches. It just all adds up and not sure what product you end up with. If you really want one then buy the best one not the worst one. You may end in the same place.

2. Yes., a lady down the Road from me.

Blackadder · Apr 22, 2020

I on the other hand am more skeptical about the interest in Bucos. In the past few months, I have seen a general price drop on Buco jackets on Yahoo Auction JP and ebay. There are still plenty of listing at over USD1000 but those are not moving at all.

Camaro1967 · Apr 22, 2020

Thanks for the feedback, guys!

1. I am sentimental about some pieces. I shouldn't be, but there is a story attached or personal meaning involved. So, some of that is worth preserving. Until I see a cost more than I was expecting to pay anyway.
2. The lady down the street from you is Dena at Leather Care Specialists, tmitchell59?
3. I started off liking the J-100, but for some odd reason, the PJ-27 has really grown on me lately.

I actually snagged a few vintage pieces from Yahoo Auction (Buyee), Blackadder. It's hit or miss, but one thing I love about Japan is that their love of leather jackets tends to favor new and shiny versus vintage. There are exceptions, of course, but I usually can find a few great deals on used pieces in my size (42-44-ish) because that's larger than what most Japanese wear.

handymike · Apr 22, 2020

I think they are really cool. I like both the J-100 and J-24 models. There are great repros out there, and there is a big upside to getting one made-to-measure or in an amazing hide. That said, the originals really look better, and if you get a good one at a decent price it’s a win/ win.
The old ones are more fragile, so if you like the look and plan on wearing it a lot- go for a RMC, or DD, or whatever.
Currently my collection is 2 new, and 3 vintage FWIW.

Blackadder · Apr 22, 2020

handymike said:
I think they are really cool. I like both the J-100 and J-24 models. There are great repros out there, and there is a big upside to getting one made-to-measure or in an amazing hide. That said, the originals really look better, and if you get a good one at a decent price it’s a win/ win.
The old ones are more fragile, so if you like the look and plan on wearing it a lot- go for a RMC, or DD, or whatever.
Currently my collection is 2 new, and 3 vintage FWIW.

That is quite true. For wearable vintage Buco, go for steerhide as they are later models. The earlier HH are more for collection.

handymike · Apr 22, 2020

I prefer the steerhide anyway!

Blackadder · Apr 22, 2020

I have 1 RM Buco JH-1, 3 RM Buco J-100 and 2 Buco J-24 repros (sold my LW J-23 or there would be 3 J-24 too). All in HH so I am happy with vintage steer.

lina · Apr 22, 2020

They really are great riding jackets. Mine here, formerly Terry’s.

Camaro1967 · Apr 22, 2020

lina said:
View attachment 229629 They really are great riding jackets. Mine here, formerly Terry’s.

Love that PJ-27. Looks great!

AeroFan_07 · Apr 22, 2020

For me the "restoration" camp is similar to antique furniture. Genereally speaking un-restored, original pieces in excellent to even just fair condition are worth quite a bit more $$$ than a restored piece. Even though the restored pieces looks much nicer and likely functions better.

With jackets, the market for anything proveable as "Buco" has been strong for a long time, but weakening indeed now (likely a combintaiton of Covid & Worldwide economic fears). But the rest of the market for classic/vintage leathers is really down.

I do not think a good cleaning/conditioning and even seam repairs, if done well, would really send the value into a tailspin. However my more basic question to you is: What's your endgame? Do you want this to be a wearable, everyday type classic? Or is it going to get hung on the wall? That may help determine your best course of action on this jacket.

Camaro1967 · Apr 22, 2020

I appreciate the feedback, Aero_Fan07. End game is to wear something functional. Certainly not for bikes, but for personal enjoyment.

tmitchell59 · Apr 22, 2020

MemphisBlues said:
1. I am sentimental about some pieces. I shouldn't be, but there is a story attached or personal meaning involved. So, some of that is worth preserving. Until I see a cost more than I was expecting to pay anyway.
2. The lady down the street from you is Dena at Leather Care Specialists, tmitchell59?

Sentiment changes things. Write Dena and ask her for an estimate. I have not had contact with her in some time.

Most Buco jackets are not particularly rare. Folks just ask a lot for them. Given they have been reproduced by everybody I would think the originals would be of interest. Most people who collect Buco jacket probably have theirs already. Someday I may own one of the first addition lined jackets.

J Leather Investigater · Apr 22, 2020

MemphisBlues said:
Hey all-

Sorry if this has been asked and answered elsewhere. I've been looking for some insight and I am interested in anyone's experiences concerning Buco jacket restorations.

Given how popular Buco is, whether the hype is merited or not, I suspect there are quite a few collectors and aficionados out there who have invested into restoring a vintage piece or two versus opting for a repro.

I'm also asking because I have a few vintage pieces myself and I'm on the fence about whether it's worth restoring some or all of them. I know this hobby isn't cheap and there is diminishing returns involved to all of this.

I've asked around and had some personal experiences, too, like Johnson Leathers, Leather Care USA, and Leather Care Specialists. But none of these folks exclusively deal with Buco and I suspect some of the Buco owners on this forum may have had other experiences and possible recommendations.

So, a few questions come to mind:

1) Assuming the leather shell is still intact and serviceable, what's a full restoration (e.g. relining, restitching, cleaning, and conditioning) going to cost?

2) Who would you recommend for a vintage jacket restoration?

3) Just for the fun of it, what's your favorite Buco jacket?

Thanks in advance.

I personally would by pass a restoration and get a repro, the originals that are "in good shape" are close in price to a new repro. I think you would be happier with a new repro, if you dont want to spend $ on a new repro be patient an get a second hand one.
L.w. j23 repro

Camaro1967 · Apr 22, 2020

tmitchell59 said:
Write Dena and ask her for an estimate. I have not had contact with her in some time.

I have, thanks. Just shopping around to see what my options are and what recommendations folks from the forum may have.

John D Maccarter said:
I think you would be happier with a new repro, if you dont want to spend $ on a new repro be patient an get a second hand one.

Been there, done that. I already have the second hand ones, too. I love LW, but I prefer the vintage for certain models.

ton312 · Apr 22, 2020

If you can find a serviceable original that fits, for a fair deal (this is the hard part as I find them wildly overpriced for what they are) then meeting an emotional desire seems to be a good deal.
Restoration is a tricky thing. It will never be quite like the original and thus, by default comes closer to a repro (which can be spec’d for hide and fit). Even the best restorations leave a jacket somehow inexplicably and undeniably different. Not a bad thing but something to consider. I’ve chased some other jackets down this path to mixed results. I’m going to do it again with a 50’s era HH Goodgal aircomfort. There is something about breathing new life into a piece of history that a repro simply can’t do. There’s also something about a repro and it’s rock solid build and newness that a restore can’t touch. Rambling on, sorry. I’m always of two minds on this. Never really settled either way. Bottom line. I support your quest.

ton312 · Apr 22, 2020

PS- I’ve had a hard time contacting Great Leather. I wrote about a restore of a very rare and early Perfecto car coat many years ago and received no reply. I sent more than one email. I’m relatively close in proximity as I believe the shop is in central Illinois so it was a bit disappointing.
I would also trust Johnson Leathers to handle just about anything.

Camaro1967 · Apr 22, 2020

ton312 said:
If you can find a serviceable original that fits, for a fair deal (this is the hard part as I find them wildly overpriced for what they are) then meeting an emotional desire seems to be a good deal.

I usually look at buyee and find a few good deals. I'm in that 42-46 range, depending on specs. Just so happens that's larger-than-average for most Japanese, so they are slightly less popular in the secondhand market. And, on the whole, lots of Japanese buyers don't dig vintage pieces, so I've had some luck in a few shops whenever I visit.

ton312 said:
PS- I’ve had a hard time contacting Great Leather.

I don't know what the deal may have been, but considering everything going on right now, they put a video up on their page saying they are still open, but it's just Dena and she's a one-woman operation at this point. I'm guessing when you did contact them, they were just too short-staffed to respond since they seem like a pretty small operation as it is.

ton312 said:
I would also trust Johnson Leathers to handle just about anything.

I like them. I've been there in-person plenty of times, too. But I'm also curious to see who the other players in this market are so I can assess how they compare in terms of cost, quality and turn around.

Seb Lucas · Apr 22, 2020

MemphisBlues said:
Hey all-

Sorry if this has been asked and answered elsewhere. I've been looking for some insight and I am interested in anyone's experiences concerning Buco jacket restorations.

Given how popular Buco is, whether the hype is merited or not, I suspect there are quite a few collectors and aficionados out there who have invested into restoring a vintage piece or two versus opting for a repro.

I'm also asking because I have a few vintage pieces myself and I'm on the fence about whether it's worth restoring some or all of them. I know this hobby isn't cheap and there is diminishing returns involved to all of this.

I've asked around and had some personal experiences, too, like Johnson Leathers, Leather Care USA, and Leather Care Specialists. But none of these folks exclusively deal with Buco and I suspect some of the Buco owners on this forum may have had other experiences and possible recommendations.

So, a few questions come to mind:

1) Assuming the leather shell is still intact and serviceable, what's a full restoration (e.g. relining, restitching, cleaning, and conditioning) going to cost?

2) Who would you recommend for a vintage jacket restoration?

3) Just for the fun of it, what's your favorite Buco jacket?

Thanks in advance.

1) Unanswerable - depends what it needs (period hardware, etc)

2) Johnson Leathers - a no brainier if you are in San Fran.

3) J 100 - I don't care for any other Buco patterns.

I am personally quite happy to spend $300 on an old jacket if I like it. The issue is never what it's worth, it's about how much you like it. A jacket is not an investment except by accident.

Camaro1967 · Apr 22, 2020

Seb Lucas said:
1) Unanswerable - depends what it needs (period hardware, etc)

2) Johnson Leathers - a no brainier if you are in San Fran.

3) J 100 - I don't care for any other Buco patterns.

I am personally quite happy to spend $300 on an old jacket if I like it. The issue is never what it's worth, it's about how much you like it. A jacket is not an investment except by accident.

1. Well, sans the leather itself needing to be repaired, everything else. New stitching. New hardware. New lining. I'd think a range or upper limit wouldn't be too hard to quote.

2. I like them, but they are not the only game in town. I'd like to see who else is available.

3. I like the J-100, too, but it's sort of like a first love to me. I fell in love. But I also fell out of love, too.

I agree about the worth part. I doubt anybody is into leather jackets because they ever thought they'd get rich buying/selling/trading these things. It often comes down to whatever puts the biggest smile on your face. In those sorts of cases, sometimes money can buy happiness.

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