Buco Jacket Restoration

Superfluous · Apr 22, 2020

I am a fan of both original Bucos and CR repros. Repros have definite advantages, including customization and superior construction. That said, original Bucos have one thing that no repro has: an integral role in the history and evolution of leather jackets, and motorcycle jackets in particular. The J-100 is my personal favorite of the Buco models. The Buco J-100 is an iconic design and its noteworthy influence continues through the present day. There are plenty of other classic and influential CR models, but the cut and lines of the J-100 stand tall.

Perhaps the best illustration of Buco's historical influence/significance is the tremendous number of repros. To the best of my knowledge, there are more Buco repros than any other individual vintage motorcycle brand. To be clear, there are several other historically significant and influential vintage brands, including Sears Hercules, Lewis Leathers, Cal Leathers, Leathertogs, Schott, Beck, etc. I have left off many other wonderful vintage brands that deserve to be spoken in the same sentence as the foregoing brands.

There are some that say Buco is over-hyped, nothing special, and undeserving of the notoriety. Frankly, other than iconic influence of the J-100 and the frequency with which Bucos are reproduced -- which may be a circular observation -- I cannot make a compelling case justifying Buco's prominence among other vintage brands. Nevertheless, whether justified or not, the fact remains that Buco is an exalted and noteworthy vintage brand.

Several years ago, I decided that I wanted one vintage jacket. I choose the Buco J-100 because I find the design the quintessential CR. That said, I acknowledge that I was influenced by the hype. Given that I was going to own only one vintage jacket, I wanted it to be historically noteworthy, and the Buco J-100, whether justified or not, is historically noteworthy. So, yes . . . I bought into the hype. And, I paid handsomely for the privilege.

I did not want a Buco requiring restoration. For better or worse, thats not my thing. I wanted a Buco in good condition -- showing some wear consistent with being a vintage jacket, but pristine vintage wear. Again, I paid handsomely for the required condition, and many less expensive jackets, in lessor condition, were bypassed along the way.

The pursuit of a special vintage jacket is part of the joy of ownership. I required a larger size, which are much rarer and more difficult to find in good condition. I spent years looking for the perfect Buco J-100 consistent with my preferences. When I finally found and purchased it, it was the culmination of a process that continues to contribute to my enjoyment of the jacket.

Do I regret the cash outlay for my Buco J-100? Not one iota, and I would do it again in a heartbeat. I have more expensive repros, that are better made from better leather, but the Buco J-100 is my favorite jacket. Worth every penny.

Your mileage may vary.

Camaro1967 · Apr 22, 2020

Superfluous said:
Do I regret the cash outlay for my Buco J-100? Not one iota, and I would do it again in a heartbeat. I have more expensive repros, that are better made from better leather, but the Buco J-100 is my favorite jacket. Worth every penny.

Your mileage may vary.

I dig it. Sometimes we want what we want. And logic or economic common sense be damned. I appreciate you sharing, Superfluous.

For a long time, I'd see a Buco J-100 and knew I wanted one, too. But I didn't really look at any too closely to know why it was different from the countless copies of it. But once this whole Fedora Lounge obsession/hobby thing began to take off a few years ago with the birth of my second kid (call it an early mid-life crisis), I learned more details about that particular jacket than I'll ever need to know. But who knows, maybe if I ever make it to Jeopardy, I might get "Obscure Buco Jacket Details for $500."

One thing I really like about a restoration, however, kind of like a classic car, is keeping the aesthetic, but personalizing it a bit. Tightening the stitching. Updating the lining. Maybe some shiny new hardware. Or buff out some irregularities in the surface of the leather. Sure, some of the nostalgia and old gets lost. But something new, a Frankenstein of sorts, also gets created. For a vintage collector, that's probably blasphemy. But for anyone who is punk at heart, or prefers a more personalized item, it's exciting. And to varying degrees, a lot of enthusiasts are already doing just that.

I think in the case of a restoration, however, it's not really a question of if (at least to those of us who are into it), but justifying why (to everyone else who doesn't get it). But a big part of this hobby is indulging what makes us happy. There isn't a lot of (economic) rational behavior involved when we are willing to pay more for a restoration than what a new repro of the same item costs. But just like some folks like the smell of Shinki or the price of admission to wear a rare or limited edition item, sometimes what we covet most is the way an item makes us feel (or what we tell ourselves we will feel if we have that item). The repro may be better from a technical standpoint, but the Frankenstein restoration piece is what is making me smile more.

Seb Lucas · Apr 22, 2020

MemphisBlues said:
1. Well, sans the leather itself needing to be repaired, everything else. New stitching. New hardware. New lining. I'd think a range or upper limit wouldn't be too hard to quote.

2. I like them, but they are not the only game in town. I'd like to see who else is available.

3. I like the J-100, too, but it's sort of like a first love to me. I fell in love. But I also fell out of love, too.

I agree about the worth part. I doubt anybody is into leather jackets because they ever thought they'd get rich buying/selling/trading these things. It often comes down to whatever puts the biggest smile on your face. In those sorts of cases, sometimes money can buy happiness.

1- If only it were so simple... $350 to $1000 depending on how far you go.

2 - Well you did ask for an opinion and that is mine. My principle is go local and go with a known quantity.

3- I have yet to fall in love with a jacket. I way prefer the Brooks cafe racer (made by one of the Buco founders) to the Buco J100 if I'm going for a period cafe jacket. The Brooks is rarely over $300 for a good one. I prefer the details of the Brooks back to the almost bland one-piece slab of the Buco. But I understand people who love the latter for the opposite reasons.

I generally prefer originals as they just look better. The imperfect stitching and unspectacular leather just look better to my eye than the almost perfect Zombie brand repops. However the repops are better in every way except looks.

Seb Lucas · Apr 22, 2020

Superfluous said:
There are some that say Buco is over-hyped, nothing special, and undeserving of the notoriety. Frankly, other than iconic influence of the J-100 and the frequency with which Bucos are reproduced -- which may be a circular observation -- I cannot make a compelling case justifying Buco's prominence among other vintage brands. Nevertheless, whether justified or not, the fact remains that Buco is an exalted and noteworthy vintage brand.

It's an interesting one, isn't it? I have very conservative taste in clothing and rarely wear anything but black and usually choose simple lines. I think the Buco is popular because it is so safe and inoffensive. You almost can't get a more simple undemanding design. Which is why I like it. I personally would never wear a cross zip or anything with multiple zips or belts or pockets - too busy, too theatrical. The Buco is a jacket that probably would appeal to the widest range of folk (including age ranges) and it looks great with a range of, shall we say, outfits?

ton312 · Apr 22, 2020

Seb Lucas said:
It's an interesting one, isn't it? I have very conservative taste in clothing and rarely wear anything but black and usually choose simple lines. I think the Buco is popular because it is so safe and inoffensive. You almost can't get a more simple undemanding design. Which is why I like it. I personally would never wear a cross zip or anything with multiple zips or belts or pockets - too busy, too theatrical. The Buco is a jacket that probably would appeal to the widest range of folk (including age ranges) and it looks great with a range of, shall we say, outfits?

I’ve really noticed my tastes in outerwear in general moving in this direction. It takes a lot for me to get into a cross zip these days. Still my favorite design but...it’s an occasion to wear one. I think that’s why I’m gravitating toward the type III so much lately. It’s just a very benign pattern, done to death by just about anyone whose stitched two pieces of material together and worn by everyone from moms at Target to cowboys at Walmart. Leather in general has become a difficult choice for me. There’s nothing that looks better than a leather jacket but I rarely want to wear one. Suede, denim and wool are easier options for me these days and they suit my lifestyle much more readily.

*Of course this could all change tomorrow.

handymike · Apr 22, 2020

Mine isn’t a Buco. It’s a Kehoe...I too was looking for the perfect combo of details...turns out my find needs “adjusting”, but I’m all in. I love 90% of this vintage piece.

Will Zach · Apr 22, 2020

About six months ago I started my participation in this illustrious forum with a plaintive call for a "poor man's Buco J-100".

. I was quickly instructed by @Monitor that there is no such thing, but some vintage jackets come close. One of the closest is HD Sportster, save for one breast pocket and different position of cuff zips. The cut is very similar. Now I have two of them. Like @Superfluous and others I am attracted by HD history and simple classic design. In one of them I found a flat book of matches from the seventies! Like many of us, I am looking for that vintage Buco J-100 for a steal of the price from an unwitting seller. If I find one, will my Sportsters be relegated to the closet or wind up in Classifieds? I hope not. One thing that drives me crazy in those jackets is lack of internal breast pocket for my wallet. I re-lined one of my Sportsters and added the pocket. I keep the other one untouched.

lina · Apr 22, 2020

ton312 said:
... Leather in general has become a difficult choice for me. There’s nothing that looks better than a leather jacket but I rarely want to wear one...

Wait, what..? It really IS the apocalypse..!

ton312 · Apr 22, 2020

lina said:
Wait, what..? It really IS the apocalypse..!

I’ve been headed that way for a while though. I still love leather jackets, don’t get me wrong, just aren’t really my go to as of now.

lina · Apr 22, 2020

ton312 said:
I’ve been headed that way for a while though. I still love leather jackets, don’t get me wrong, just aren’t really my go to as of now.

I just shed a tear...

Camaro1967 · Apr 22, 2020

I imagine Ton is the leather jacket equivalent of fifty shades of grey. It’s a love-hate relationship.

Monitor · Apr 22, 2020

Superfluous said:
I am a fan of both original Bucos and CR repros. Repros have definite advantages, including customization and superior construction. That said, original Bucos have one thing that no repro has: an integral role in the history and evolution of leather jackets, and motorcycle jackets in particular. The J-100 is my personal favorite of the Buco models. The Buco J-100 is an iconic design and its noteworthy influence continues through the present day. There are plenty of other classic and influential CR models, but the cut and lines of the J-100 stand tall.

Perhaps the best illustration of Buco's historical influence/significance is the tremendous number of repros. To the best of my knowledge, there are more Buco repros than any other individual vintage motorcycle brand. To be clear, there are several other historically significant and influential vintage brands, including Sears Hercules, Lewis Leathers, Cal Leathers, Leathertogs, Schott, Beck, etc. I have left off many other wonderful vintage brands that deserve to be spoken in the same sentence as the foregoing brands.

There are some that say Buco is over-hyped, nothing special, and undeserving of the notoriety. Frankly, other than iconic influence of the J-100 and the frequency with which Bucos are reproduced -- which may be a circular observation -- I cannot make a compelling case justifying Buco's prominence among other vintage brands. Nevertheless, whether justified or not, the fact remains that Buco is an exalted and noteworthy vintage brand.

Several years ago, I decided that I wanted one vintage jacket. I choose the Buco J-100 because I find the design the quintessential CR. That said, I acknowledge that I was influenced by the hype. Given that I was going to own only one vintage jacket, I wanted it to be historically noteworthy, and the Buco J-100, whether justified or not, is historically noteworthy. So, yes . . . I bought into the hype. And, I paid handsomely for the privilege.

I did not want a Buco requiring restoration. For better or worse, thats not my thing. I wanted a Buco in good condition -- showing some wear consistent with being a vintage jacket, but pristine vintage wear. Again, I paid handsomely for the required condition, and many less expensive jackets, in lessor condition, were bypassed along the way.

The pursuit of a special vintage jacket is part of the joy of ownership. I required a larger size, which are much rarer and more difficult to find in good condition. I spent years looking for the perfect Buco J-100 consistent with my preferences. When I finally found and purchased it, it was the culmination of a process that continues to contribute to my enjoyment of the jacket.

Do I regret the cash outlay for my Buco J-100? Not one iota, and I would do it again in a heartbeat. I have more expensive repros, that are better made from better leather, but the Buco J-100 is my favorite jacket. Worth every penny.

Your mileage may vary.

I'm sorry but... No.

It's a very fine jacket but - and please do correct me if I'm wrong - prior to Rin Tanaka's book, the J-100 has had little to no influence on anything at all, being just one jacket in a very long line of cafe racers, something that came after virtually identical styles by other makers, such as Cal, etc and frankly, CR's in general were never something you'd consider iconic (iconic in a way that a Perfecto and the A-2 are iconic).
The first time that the style even saw any kind of popularity was the 2020's and that's all thanks to celebs.

The only mention of Buco in general being anything special is Tanaka's book which is what kicked the whole thing off and that all happened like super recently but prior to that, nobody has ever even heard of it or considered it a holy Grail of leather jackets. Same kinda popularity coulda happen to Langlitz, Cal, etc.

Don't get me wrong, they're great jackets but...

What you're describing, the only truly significant and influential jackets are the A-2 and the Perfecto and that's about it. Lewis Leathers Bronx and Lighting in Europe, as well. But the J-100... Just nope.

Camaro1967 · Apr 22, 2020

Monitor said:
What you're describing, the only truly significant and influential jackets are the A-2 and the Perfecto and that's about it.

Captain Sensible · Apr 22, 2020

Superfluous · Apr 22, 2020

Seb Lucas said:
It's an interesting one, isn't it? I have very conservative taste in clothing and rarely wear anything but black and usually choose simple lines. I think the Buco is popular because it is so safe and inoffensive. You almost can't get a more simple undemanding design. Which is why I like it. I personally would never wear a cross zip or anything with multiple zips or belts or pockets - too busy, too theatrical. The Buco is a jacket that probably would appeal to the widest range of folk (including age ranges) and it looks great with a range of, shall we say, outfits?

I agree. The simple lines of the J-100 are safe and easy to wear. All of my leather jackets have clean lines, and are simple and unadorned. Thats what works for me.

FWIW, I prefer the look of cross-zips -- and sometimes even complicated cross-zips -- ON OTHER PEOPLE. When I scan photos of vintage jackets, I consistently veer towards cross-zips. I love the bold look -- on other people. That said, I do not like wearing cross-zips for two reasons: (1) excess/superfluous material when unzipped (which is most of the time); and (2) I personally associate cross-zips with bikers and rockers, I cannot pull off the biker/rocker look, and I feel like I am projecting a disingenuous image that does not befit me. I know the second point is rather silly and there are many simple, unadorned cross-zips that do not scream biker/rocker. Unfortunately, the first point remains the primary obstacle. IMHO, cross-zips look incredible when zipped, but less so when unzipped. The excess material bothers me and, IMHO, detracts from the look. I wear my jackets unzipped most of the time. Therefore, straight zips better suit my personal preferences.

zebedee · Apr 22, 2020

I would like to wear a leather pea coat, but there's too much of it. Some people look great in them (there was a picture of a LW pea coat with a purple lining ages ago that looked great), but I am not one of those people. Cross-zips are the same thing to me, but I'm also not a biker. They seem to suit very broad-shouldered people or taller people, otherwise they seem (at least to me) to 'drown' the outline of the person wearing them. A Highwayman, cafe racer or the Maxwell is about as much leather as I can get away with (and even then, some people have passed comment, although I think that caring too much about what other people think about most things/clothing [especially if negative] is being on a hiding to nothing. If a cross-zip really works on someone, there's nothing cooler, though.

lina · Apr 22, 2020

Monitor said:
..The first time that the style even saw any kind of popularity was the 2020's...

Now that's recent...

ton312 · Apr 22, 2020

Superfluous said:
The excess material bothers me and, IMHO, detracts from the look. I wear my jackets unzipped most of the time.

I completely understand. I felt my Vansons looked good unzipped and the Natal does too but my Aero and LW cross zips looked pretty horrible worn open. They certainly felt bad worn open.

Superfluous · Apr 22, 2020

Monitor said:
I'm sorry but... No.

It's a very fine jacket but - and please do correct me if I'm wrong - prior to Rin Tanaka's book, the J-100 has had little to no influence on anything at all, being just one jacket in a very long line of cafe racers, something that came after virtually identical styles by other makers, such as Cal, etc and frankly, CR's in general were never something you'd consider iconic (iconic in a way that a Perfecto and the A-2 are iconic).
The first time that the style even saw any kind of popularity was the 2020's and that's all thanks to celebs.

The only mention of Buco in general being anything special is Tanaka's book which is what kicked the whole thing off and that all happened like super recently but prior to that, nobody has ever even heard of it or considered it a holy Grail of leather jackets. Same kinda popularity coulda happen to Langlitz, Cal, etc.

Don't get me wrong, they're great jackets but...

What you're describing, the only truly significant and influential jackets are the A-2 and the Perfecto and that's about it. Lewis Leathers Bronx and Lighting in Europe, as well. But the J-100... Just nope.

We will have to agree to disagree.

The Buco J-100 is not the product of a single mention buried within a single, obscure book that is read almost exclusively by jacket enthusiasts. Likewise, the popularity of the Buco J-100 did not begin in "the 2020's," as you incorrectly suggest. To the contrary, repro manufacturers have been reproducing the Buco J-100, and Buco jackets in general, for many, many, many years -- long before "the 2020's." Moreover, and illustrative of the popularity of the Buco designs, repro manufacturers have been replicating -- and in the case of RMC, licensing -- Buco labels for many, many years. To my knowledge, no other motorcycle jacket label has been so frequently replicated by repro manufacturers.

I agree that the A-2 is also an iconic design -- even more so than the J-100 -- and certainly more historically significant. However, my comments were intentionally and expressly limited to motorcycle jackets

I also agree that the Perfecto is an equally iconic and praiseworthy design -- again, perhaps more so than the J-100. That said, I personally prefer the J-100, and hence my gravitation in that direction.

In my prior post, I fully acknowledged the over-hyping of Buco jackets, and I do so again here. I also fully acknowledged that there are many other outstanding, historically noteworthy vintage brands. Buco does not deserve to be exalted over all other vintage brands. On the other hand, Buco also does not deserve to be belittled as an insignificant, non-deserving byproduct of 2020's celebrity patronage, with no independent historical significance. Frankly, I doubt that celebrity patronage has had much, if any, impact. I am only aware of one or two celebrities that don Buco jackets and the general public has no idea who manufactured the "old" jacket captured in the ephemeral TMZ image. Separately, there is a reason why Rin Tanaka lauded Buco in his obscure book that no one but true enthusiasts have ever seen, and it was not because he owned stock in the deceased company. There is a reason why repro manufacturers have been reproducing Buco jackets with greater frequency than any other vintage motorcycle jacket brand for many, many, many years -- including the Buco labels. There is more to it than the superficial notion of "2020's" celebrity patronage.

Like I said upfront, lets simply agree to disagree. You are MUCH more knowledgeable than I regarding these matters. I am not interested in debating the issue and I will not respond to further suggestions that Buco is nothing more than a byproduct of 2020's celebrity patronage.

I hope you are safe and healthy. Cheers.

Camaro1967 · Apr 22, 2020

I think what's interesting in all of this is jacket enthusiasts are really no different than any other breed of enthusiasts. We have our loyalties. We have our strongly-worded preferences. And some of that is just whatever bias we happen to be swayed by.

At the end of the day, who really cares what anyone else likes? Even if something has been replicated a million times over again. So what?

Does someone else's love for an object we otherwise don't care for preclude them--or us--from loving what they/we find value in?

Personally, I'm not a big fan of the Perfecto or A-2. But I also know both have their cult following. If someone wants to rock out either, more power to them. I'll still be rocking out my Buco and, regardless of historical significance in the eyes of whoever, it has meaning to me. That's honestly all I need or care about.

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