Ladies Perfecto style jackets? Anyone?

navetsea · May 9, 2020

you better find some tailors who work with leather in your area, and ask the question to them, is it possible I think it is, easiest is to make the hem slants toward the waist, so your back would be shorter, and to make the belt not sagging beyond the hem when worn unfastened, you can always add some double tape to secure it in place.

if you go even higher then it requires moving the zipper up, make sure they can do that carefully and not losing the snap on one of the lapel in the process, and of course cut the zip and sew it back neatly if possible using the same holes.

another way to rise up hem without doing anything, is by adding shoulder pad, since it will rise the entire jacket up. if not directly to the jacket then make a vest with padded shoulder and wear it underneath.

Carlos840 · May 9, 2020

navetsea said:
you better find some tailors who work with leather in your area, and ask the question to them, is it possible I think it is, easiest is to make the hem slants toward the waist, so your back would be shorter, and to make the belt not sagging beyond the hem when worn unfastened, you can always add some double tape to secure it in place.

if you go even higher then it requires moving the zipper up, make sure they can do that carefully and not losing the snap on one of the lapel in the process, and of course cut the zip and sew it back neatly if possible using the same holes.

another way to rise up hem without doing anything, is by adding shoulder pad, since it will rise the entire jacket up. if not directly to the jacket then make a vest with padded shoulder and wear it underneath.

Thing is leather tailors around here are much more expensive than what you most likely pay, they are also not that common.
In London i can only think of Cromford Leather, they are IMO not very good. They tapered a Schott leather jacket for me and did an average job, a few empty stitch holes, wavy stitching, not a great job by any means.
That was £180, all they did was taper the jacket from the pits down, removing 1" from each side panel.

If you want to shorten a jacket, slant the hem, move belt loops up, move main zipper, you are going to end up spending more than a new jacket just on mods and the jacket could end up ruined, IMO it doesn't make much sens.

It's probably very different for you living where you live, you probably pay less than £180 to have one of your custom jackets made no?

navetsea · May 9, 2020

still theoretically can, heck you can just buy awl and waxed thread, fold and iron up the hem and hand stitch it if you want it so bad and there is no feasible or possible alternative,
however the padded shoulder route is very feasible.

I don't know the current exchange rate of pounds now, 7 yrs ago I was quoted $300 for pull-up cowhide and $150 for sheepskin from online MTO based in West Java, I went with that orange sheepskin
the first cowhide jacket I ordered 6 yrs ago was $200 at this nearby local workshop (paid 240 since I asked the mock up jacket made from denim to be finished and lined as well), since then it has risen up, but still is nowhere as popular as denim and jeans, or even suit
in comparison making a tailored suit is surprisingly 2x the cost of leather jacket at the very least, since there is a lot more demand.

Will Zach · May 9, 2020

I know a magician for repair and alteration of motorcycle jackets, but she is in Poland. Rates are about 50% of what you'd pay in the West. She rides, too, hard, so her work is labor of love. Happy to give you contact info via PM if you want to go that route.

Leilah Wilde · May 9, 2020

I've just been quoted £100 by a local leather garment repairman here in London. He seems to have a bunch of really great reviews and also makes custom leather jackets. We'll see... Perhaps I'll visit his store once the apocalypse is over.

Leilah Wilde · May 9, 2020

I've spent today going through my jackets. I've put up a bunch on eBay in an attempt to minimise the collection so I can save up for something special. I have far too many and none are "perfect".

I like this one I picked up in the States but the back sleeve panels bother me. The hide on the rest of the jacket is fairly thick but the back sleeve panels are significantly thinner and grainier. Would you consider this a defect? Not sure why it bugs me so much ha.

ton312 · May 9, 2020

Leilah Wilde said:
I've spent today going through my jackets. I've put up a bunch on eBay in an attempt to minimise the collection so I can save up for something special. I have far too many and none are "perfect".

I like this one I picked up in the States but the back sleeve panels bother me. The hide on the rest of the jacket is fairly thick but the back sleeve panels are significantly thinner and grainier. Would you consider this a defect? Not sure why it bugs me so much ha.

Is that an HD cycle champ? AMF tag?

Leilah Wilde · May 9, 2020

Nope. This is a Straight To Hell Commando. Saw it online and kinda liked it so I took a chance. It's a nice fit. I'll probably get bored of all the metal hardware eventually but for now it's fun as a casual jacket. It's just those back panels - grrrrrrr. Would it bother anyone else the way it does me?

ton312 · May 9, 2020

Leilah Wilde said:
Nope. This is a Straight To Hell Commando. Saw it online and kinda liked it so I took a chance. It's a nice fit. I'll probably get bored of all the metal hardware eventually but for now it's fun as a casual jacket. It's just those back panels - grrrrrrr. Would it bother anyone else the way it does me?

I don’t mind mixed grain too much. Just depends.

navetsea · May 9, 2020

I like the character, strange they put the softer hide on the back of the elbow, it should be on the inside of the elbow

edit, it is on the inside of the elbow.

Carlos840 · May 9, 2020

Leilah Wilde said:
I've spent today going through my jackets. I've put up a bunch on eBay in an attempt to minimise the collection so I can save up for something special. I have far too many and none are "perfect".

I like this one I picked up in the States but the back sleeve panels bother me. The hide on the rest of the jacket is fairly thick but the back sleeve panels are significantly thinner and grainier. Would you consider this a defect? Not sure why it bugs me so much ha.

I have similar thickness miss match on my Lee Storme rider, one of the front panels is much much thinner than the rest of the jacket.
It doesn't really bother me because it is a "cheap" mass produced jacket and i got it for a great price, but if i received something like that from an upper tier maker i would definitely complain and consider this a problem.
It is IMO cost saving at the cutting table, that part should have been discarded or used for something else.
I say it doesn't bother me, but everytime i wear that jacket i do the pinch test like you do, so i guess deep down it does bother me...

Top tip, no jacket is perfect, there is alway something that could be better.
It took me 20 odd jackets to make my peace with that and learn to stop focusing on the imperfections so much...

(no such thing as too many!)

red devil · May 9, 2020

Carlos840 said:
Top tip, no jacket is perfect, there is alway something that could be better.
It took me 20 odd jackets to make my peace with that and learn to stop focusing on the imperfections so much...
(no such thing as too many!)

@Leilah Wilde , @Carlos840 beat me to it. There is no perfect jacket and there is single "grail" jacket, rather there are "grail jackets" - yes in the plural - these are the ones you keep and enjoy.

Tom71 · May 9, 2020

I realise you are in London. If you haven’t done so already, have a look at Lewis Leathers in Bloomsbury. For all I know, they’re closed ATM, but you should def check out their XZips.
The people there are into leather and RocknRoll, so even if you just end up chatting with them, it’s a great experience.

Leilah Wilde · May 9, 2020

Tom71 said:
I realise you are in London. If you haven’t done so already, have a look at Lewis Leathers in Bloomsbury. For all I know, they’re closed ATM, but you should def check out their XZips.
The people there are into leather and RocknRoll, so even if you just end up chatting with them, it’s a great experience.

I was actually planning to head into their store when it reopens! I'm crazy about their Memphis jacket.

Blackadder · May 10, 2020

Perhaps you can have a look at some Japanese brands for shorter and slimmer cut.
https://page.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/o371071835
http://www.666jp.com/shopbrand/ct408/
https://www.leather-house.net/fs/lh1978/c/ladies_jacket
https://page.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/w319798611
https://page.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/r380068315

Leilah Wilde · May 10, 2020

Blackadder said:
Perhaps you can have a look at some Japanese brands for shorter and slimmer cut.
https://page.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/o371071835
http://www.666jp.com/shopbrand/ct408/
https://www.leather-house.net/fs/lh1978/c/ladies_jacket
https://page.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/w319798611
https://page.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/r380068315

Have you ever ordered anything from Japan on these websites? Is it a smooth transaction/process? I've seen a few auction sites but I'm a little dubious about going for it.

willyto · May 10, 2020

Leilah Wilde said:
Have you ever ordered anything from Japan on these websites? Is it a smooth transaction/process? I've seen a few auction sites but I'm a little dubious about going for it.

I’ve been using Buyee to buy items from Yahoo auctions with no trouble at all for over a year now.

Problem at the moment is that they don’t ship anything and there’s no telling when they will. They store the packages for 30 days or you have to pay storage after that. They have frozen the waiting days for now.

In the current situation I’d see if you can get something in the UK or Europe so you have a guarantee that it will arrive. Also you’d have to pay taxes and custom duties to get it from Japan.

Monitor · May 10, 2020

What I'd definitely recommend is that you check with styleforum.com as well, they ought to be much more knowledgeable on the matter, and also Superfuture.

TBH, I'd skip the heritage stuff makers and go straight for the more fashion-y brands like Dolce&Gabbana, Diesel and RRL. I've had leather jackets by all these makers and can tell you for a fact they were high quality items, perfectly made out of very serviceable materials and most importantly, all fit perfectly.
In fact, a lot better than most stuff you'd get by most "bespoke" makers we discuss here. 'cause, unlike our fav brands, these guys actually really know how to make a women's leather jacket.

Biggest issue is finding something that looks good but all three makers often reproduced 50's and onward styles so you should be able to find a reasonably priced, nice looking vtg RRL, for instance. They'd release a really good looking cross zip from time to time, all the right details, etc. in cow or goat.

Other than that, Schott will make you a good fitting jacket. Lewis Leathers too, no clue about the Japanese makers but I think that's about it. I wouldn't put much faith into anyone else for that perfectly tailored women's jacket, TBH...

Tom71 · May 10, 2020

Leilah Wilde said:
I was actually planning to head into their store when it reopens! I'm crazy about their Memphis jacket.

Yes, I was there early March (i.e. in a different life). The Memphis in the new veg-tanned cowhide is a dream (although for me it will always be the Lightning in horse...).

Monitor · May 10, 2020

Tom71 said:
Yes, I was there early March (i.e. in a different life). The Memphis in the new veg-tanned cowhide is a dream (although for me it will always be the Lightning in horse...).

They have Memphis in veg-tanned cow??? When I emailed them, they said only HH is possible for Memphis and that wasn't that long ago...

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