Stretching Cowhide Leather

Entropic Thunder · May 19, 2020

Does anyone even read posts that aren’t written by the regular folks? I’ve written several posts in detail so far on this thread describing how exactly to stretch or shrink leather, and even a bit of the science behind why certain leather will stretch and some won’t, and none of the posts have even been acknowledged? Is anyone seeing these messages or is the input simply not welcome here?

Simply put: the arrogant guy is actually not wrong, leather does factually stretch. When you break a new jacket in and it softens up, there is also some degree of stretching that takes place as the elbow bags on a well worn in jacket will clearly show. If you’ve ever seen a shoe being made it is very clearly stretched over the last to achieve the shape of the shoe. Likewise take a pair of shoes 1/2 to 1 1/2 sizes too small to any decent cobbler and they’ll pretty easily stretch them out to fit for you, so long as it’s a decent quality shoe, they just wet it down and put a shoe stretcher in there. Leather belts can commonly stretch up to several inches if the maker doesn’t either interline the belt with nylon or some other non stretch fabric for cheaper belts, or simply pull all the stretch out of the belt before it goes out the door, which is an extremely common practice in belt making. Likewise leather straps on bags are almost always interlined with mom stretch fabric otherwise they will invariably stretch. It’s not any kind of secret or myth, it’s a well known characteristic of leather that it has a limited amount of stretch and or shrinkage based on the tannage and the type of hide. Leather has a fiber structure and when wet those fibers can be stretched like almost any other natural material. If the fibers dry in a stretched position, the fibers will be set that way and the leather will remain stretched.

navetsea · May 19, 2020

navetsea · May 19, 2020

whether multipanelled lined leather jacket stretch with just wetting and wearing over our squishy flesh, that's another story, over bony area like elbow I bet yes. I imagine if the jacket is too tight across the torso you have better chance to wet stretch it since our torso is bony and our spine and shoulder blade can give enough continuous pressure to permanently stretch it once dry across the back panel but I think you need to wear the wet jacket for hours until it is completely dry or sit somewhere warm or breezy to speed up (would be a horrible day just beware), sleeve diameter is difficult unless you stuff it with bottle or mannequin wooden/ hard plastic arm and let the jacket dry over it for days.

Carlos840 · May 19, 2020

Yes, leather as a material stretches, we all agreed to that on page 1.
What we are saying is that once changed into a jacket, constructed of multiple panels assembled by thread and lined it will not stretch any noticeable amount without damage to the stitching or the lining.
Yes a belt made from a single layer of leather will stretch. Now make a belt from two layers of leather stitched together with a layer of fabric sandwiched in between it won't stretch at all. What prevents it from stretching is the combination of leather and fabric and the stitch lines going through both.

The fact that you can find situations in which leather alone can be stretched doesn't mean you can effectively stretch a leather jacket.

willyto · May 19, 2020

What @Carlos840 said basically.

Seb Lucas · May 19, 2020

Entropic Thunder said:
Does anyone even read posts that aren’t written by the regular folks? I’ve written several posts in detail so far on this thread describing how exactly to stretch or shrink leather, and even a bit of the science behind why certain leather will stretch and some won’t, and none of the posts have even been acknowledged? Is anyone seeing these messages or is the input simply not welcome here?

Simply put: the arrogant guy is actually not wrong, leather does factually stretch. When you break a new jacket in and it softens up, there is also some degree of stretching that takes place as the elbow bags on a well worn in jacket will clearly show. If you’ve ever seen a shoe being made it is very clearly stretched over the last to achieve the shape of the shoe. Likewise take a pair of shoes 1/2 to 1 1/2 sizes too small to any decent cobbler and they’ll pretty easily stretch them out to fit for you, so long as it’s a decent quality shoe, they just wet it down and put a shoe stretcher in there. Leather belts can commonly stretch up to several inches if the maker doesn’t either interline the belt with nylon or some other non stretch fabric for cheaper belts, or simply pull all the stretch out of the belt before it goes out the door, which is an extremely common practice in belt making. Likewise leather straps on bags are almost always interlined with mom stretch fabric otherwise they will invariably stretch. It’s not any kind of secret or myth, it’s a well known characteristic of leather that it has a limited amount of stretch and or shrinkage based on the tannage and the type of hide. Leather has a fiber structure and when wet those fibers can be stretched like almost any other natural material. If the fibers dry in a stretched position, the fibers will be set that way and the leather will remain stretched.

You think the 'arrogant guy' was actually being serious? My reading was he was just taking the piss, just trying to have some fun.

It's funny how people get hung up on things. Leather is sometimes like elastic, we have agreed to this. But that isn't the point as far as I understand it. Leather molds to shapes and loosens and sometimes stretches. But the point is can you take a size 42 and make it a 44? Can you systematically and permanently make a 23 inch chest a proper 24 inches? I doubt this.

I have yet to see evidence but I have heard the claims made here. Ok, so some think it can be done. I have made empirical investigations into this several times without result. So finally, I don't have any confidence in this to add it as part of my jacket owning repertoire, nor will I ever buy a too small jacket on the basis that leather stretches.

Will Zach · May 19, 2020

Carlos840 said:
Now make a belt from two layers of leather stitched together with a layer of fabric sandwiched in between it won't stretch at all. What prevents it from stretching is the combination of leather and fabric and the stitch lines going through both.

The fact that you can find situations in which leather alone can be stretched doesn't mean you can effectively stretch a leather jacket.

There is much more excess surface area in the jacket liner than in the example you described above. I would say up to one size worth of more surface area compared to leather area, depending on the jacket. So yes, if I got a jacket that is too tight in the chest for a song, I would totally soak it dripping wet and then wear it for a day to stretch with a hoodie underneath. There is a thread on that on another board, with a very successful outcome. Of course I would not do that to an expensive jacket as there are other valid factors that were mentioned - weakening of hide, seams, etc. But a cheapo jacket? Hell yes, and I bet I chances are good it would work.

Carlos840 · May 19, 2020

Will Zach said:
There is much more excess surface area in the jacket liner than in the example you described above. I would say up to one size worth of more surface area compared to leather area, depending on the jacket. So yes, if I got a jacket that is too tight in the chest for a song, I would totally soak it dripping wet and then wear it for a day to stretch with a hoodie underneath. There is a thread on that on another board, with a very successful outcome. Of course I would not do that to an expensive jacket as there are other valid factors that were mentioned - weakening of hide, seams, etc. But a cheapo jacket? Hell yes, and I bet I chances are good it would work.

I have washed multiple leather jackets by hand and in the washing machine, I have worn them wet to form to my body, none have stretched.
I currently own around 35 leather jackets, I have worn some soaking wet after being cought in the rain, they didn't stretch.
My testing has led me to the conclusion that a leather jacket doesn't stretch.
I am open to being convinced the opposite is true but it is going to take more than "trust me bro, i saw it online", "everyone knows that!" or "you didn't do it right".

As @Seb Lucas said, lots of claims, little evidence...

navetsea · May 19, 2020

the other factor is of course if the jacket fits fine to start with... then it won't stretch, same with jeans since I down size 2 I need to wear it wet after wash to fit me the 1st and 2nd time I washed it, the last jeans since I buy true size, it doesn't stretch at all even when I did the same practice to wear dripping wet to dry. since it didn't need to as it fits me just fine even after presoak.

ton312 · May 19, 2020

Rather than attempt to stretch or shrink a jacket try this method instead:
1. Put on jacket
2. Look in mirror
3. Admit it doesn’t fit (already known b/c of desire to alter).
4. Buy jacket that fits.
5. Repeat and hopefully omit steps 1, 2 & 3.

Will Zach · May 19, 2020

Carlos840 said:
I have washed multiple leather jackets by hand and in the washing machine, I have worn them wet to form to my body, none have stretched.
I currently own around 35 leather jackets, I have worn some soaking wet after being cought in the rain, they didn't stretch.
My testing has led me to the conclusion that a leather jacket doesn't stretch.
I am open to being convinced the opposite is true but it is going to take more than "trust me bro, i saw it online", "everyone knows that!" or "you didn't do it right".

As @Seb Lucas said, lots of claims, little evidence...

Depends on the leather. Dude here easily stretched a capeskin jacket. Much easier than a 3.5-oz horse or steer.

But the stress/strain principles still apply. You just have to apply more stress to the horse or steer get the strain you need (edit - at the risk of busting your seams, of course). That is why I would only do it to a sub-$100 jacket.

https://www.vintageleatherjackets.org/threads/stretching-your-jacket-up-a-size.1387/

El Marro · May 19, 2020

Entropic Thunder said:
Does anyone even read posts that aren’t written by the regular folks? I’ve written several posts in detail so far on this thread describing how exactly to stretch or shrink leather, and even a bit of the science behind why certain leather will stretch and some won’t, and none of the posts have even been acknowledged? Is anyone seeing these messages or is the input simply not welcome here?

Yes, we are reading your posts. And speaking for myself I welcome contributions from everyone here as long as they are well intentioned. I wouldn’t take it personally if no one has responded to your posts, I have had the same experience from time to time.

Carlos840 · May 19, 2020

Will Zach said:
Depends on the leather. Dude here easily stretched a capeskin jacket. Much easier than a 3.5-oz horse or steer.

But the stress/strain principles still apply. You just have to apply more stress to the horse or steer get the strain you need (edit - at the risk of busting your seams, of course). That is why I would only do it to a sub-$100 jacket.

https://www.vintageleatherjackets.org/threads/stretching-your-jacket-up-a-size.1387/

Personally i don't think two fit pics are enough to tell that a jacket was stretched.
I am also having a hard believing the pressure exerted by a comforter stuffed inside a jacket would be enough to stretch it. If that was the case we would all buy jackets that fit and end up with big floppy messes after wearing it in the rain twice.

Now, even if we grant the fact that a capeskin jacket was actually stretched, it doesn't tell us anything about jackets made with stronger leather.
Capskin is IMO the exception more than the rule, it is super spongy and stretchy to start with, a bit like deerskin.

To claim that "I stretched a capeskin jacket, capskin i leather, any leather jacket can be stretched" is IMO a false premise.

Will Zach · May 19, 2020

^^
Yes it is a false premise. Nobody claims that "any jacket can be stretched". But I would venture this statement as true: "most jackets can be stretched - at the risk of structural damage". Even then, I think the risk is not that great. Soaked leather is incredibly stretchy (and weak) and when dried under stress it will not shrink back to original dimensions. It may shrink back some. Here's my example of stretching a leather jacket: This is an Anton Vanek cowhide cop jacket - approximately 2.5-oz cowhide, pretty dense (it is an actual, working motorcycle cop jacket after all, weighs around 4.5 lbs). I got it for a song because relative to jacket size the sleeves were short (left picture). I soaked sleeves and shoulders thoroughly, attached 2-lb exercise weights to each sleeve and hung on a wide hanger modified with a pool noodle so as not to deform the shoulders for 4 days to dry completely. Before and after pics are pretty self-explanatory. You be the judge how much the sleeves stretched. Very happy with the result. I will report if the sleeves shrink back, but I don't think they will.

ton312 · May 19, 2020

The perfect pairing for attempting to stretch or shrink a leather jacket:
https://www.nbc.com/saturday-night-live/video/bad-idea-jeans/n9937

willyto · May 20, 2020

If you tried to stretch the waist on the jacket you’d have a hard time doing it with all the stitching.

The problem is not that leather doesn’t stretch but rather than when it is surrounded by seams and thread that leather won’t stretch because those things prevent it to. One also risks breaking the stitching and pulling out seams.

I have tried it with my Lewis Leathers Universal MK2 and you not only risk the stitching to break but also the zipper canvas tape and the leather around the snaps.

nick123 · May 20, 2020

Trying to stretch leather can't be healthy for an assembled jacket IMO.

El Marro · May 20, 2020

I’m sure it can be done in some cases but I think Ton is right when he suggests it is a far better idea to simply find a jacket that fits.

zebedee · May 20, 2020

So: "Maybe it can be done before the jacket is lined, but it isn't a very good idea and may cause damage. Buy one that fits, innit?' is where we're at. Cool beans.

oneterrifichog · May 20, 2020

I stretch my tight jackets by wearing them unzipped. I mean how often do you zip them or button them anyway? Just fake it if you like the jacket.

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