That is absolutely adorable!
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Cowboy hats - opinions?
- Thread starter MattJH
- Start date
as for expense...(someone mentioned way back in this thread about not being willing to spend $1k on a hat) ... everyone here knows the value of good fur when it comes to hats. I have an uncle & aunt who flew to Santa Fe to have some hats made for them at the O'Farrell shop. He said he wrote a check for $6500 that day for 4 hats...2 felts and 2 straws.
One of my favorites is a Western Fedora in 100% beaver that was custom made, basically a one off, with a price tag of $1500. I expect it to easily last a few lifetimes. When I'm done with it my son will get it, then eventually my grand son.
But my every day felt western style hat is one made by Thomas Hirt in 100% beaver. It's a black 4" brim, more or less flat with a slight turn down in front. I picked it up 2nd hand, hardly worn, for $65 bucks and it feels like it was made for my head. Maybe the best hat deal ever.
One of my favorites is a Western Fedora in 100% beaver that was custom made, basically a one off, with a price tag of $1500. I expect it to easily last a few lifetimes. When I'm done with it my son will get it, then eventually my grand son.
But my every day felt western style hat is one made by Thomas Hirt in 100% beaver. It's a black 4" brim, more or less flat with a slight turn down in front. I picked it up 2nd hand, hardly worn, for $65 bucks and it feels like it was made for my head. Maybe the best hat deal ever.
Yahoody
One Too Many
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Old thread but fun discussion. For some a "cowboy" hat is a fashion statement. For others it is simply a tool to make your life a little easier day to day.
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1961MJS
My Mail is Forwarded Here
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Hi
My first 3 were tools, a Gus Sunbody with 4 inch brim that I let dry out and then sat on it (Crunch), a Montana Peak from Jaxonbilt that I wore to Scout stuff, and an Indiana Jones hat to wear around. The rest are really fashion.
I still have a couple of Sunbodys with at least 4 inch brims, but now I have 4 Roughrider hats, two Quigley hats, and 4-5 others. The latest Roughrider is my daily wear hat, 100% beaver with lots of sweat stains, I also keep a Quigley out to wear, tan in the summer, the black on in the winter.
Not even a yard to mow right now, but I"m working on it.
Later
My first 3 were tools, a Gus Sunbody with 4 inch brim that I let dry out and then sat on it (Crunch), a Montana Peak from Jaxonbilt that I wore to Scout stuff, and an Indiana Jones hat to wear around. The rest are really fashion.
I still have a couple of Sunbodys with at least 4 inch brims, but now I have 4 Roughrider hats, two Quigley hats, and 4-5 others. The latest Roughrider is my daily wear hat, 100% beaver with lots of sweat stains, I also keep a Quigley out to wear, tan in the summer, the black on in the winter.
Not even a yard to mow right now, but I"m working on it.
Later
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Yahoody
One Too Many
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I work a horse or two most every day. Wear a hat pretty much solid 11 months of the year. Winter I am likely to change out to a stocking hat and if it is warm enough may be even go without a hat when the sun is low on the horizon mid-day. Nice to have a change once in a while and no hat off the horses. But on or around horse...I'll have a hat on. For folks working around livestock they have many uses including as a simple piece of safety equipment.
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A timely dip of the brim can save your face from cattle snot & drool inadvertently being slung just right. Don't ask me how I know.
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I was conducting HVAC inspections on a mall complex roof near the ocean. Lots of seagulls...some nesting. I had to approach the nest that topped a cooling unit. Momma flew up and began attacking me.......by dropping large amounts of seagull dung as she flew ever closer. Using my clipboard as shield I made my escape and returned the next day to complete wearing my 4 1/2" brimmed western. Working hats are good!
Yahoody
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Right on! So many uses for a good hat.
On the ground a big brim will keep most critters from giving you a good old, "well, hello!" Even an unintentional "love tap" from any size horse will put most any grown man on the ground. No matter what part of their body delivers it you don't want any them to land near your head or neck. Any size hat makes the actual target harder to identify. One of the reasons chaps have a fringe and often get worn on the ground while working animals. A solid hit on the target (your leg) is a little harder for them as the fringe makes the leg appear bigger and always moving.
Likely best to have a re-shaped hat than a re-shaped head
On the ground a big brim will keep most critters from giving you a good old, "well, hello!" Even an unintentional "love tap" from any size horse will put most any grown man on the ground. No matter what part of their body delivers it you don't want any them to land near your head or neck. Any size hat makes the actual target harder to identify. One of the reasons chaps have a fringe and often get worn on the ground while working animals. A solid hit on the target (your leg) is a little harder for them as the fringe makes the leg appear bigger and always moving.
Likely best to have a re-shaped hat than a re-shaped head
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jkingrph
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That's the way I like mine, sides out flatter, maybe a little upward roll. front rolled a little down, like a snapped fedora. I have an eye problem and like to shade my eyes from bright skies or overhead lights. At least like the attachment. No cows or horses, just grew up in N Louisiana where western style hats were the most common hats found.Right on! So many uses for a good hat.
On the ground a big brim will keep most critters from giving you a good old, "well, hello!" Even an unintentional "love tap" from any size horse will put most any grown man on the ground. No matter what part of their body delivers it you don't want any them to land near your head or neck. Any size hat makes the actual target harder to identify. One of the reasons chaps have a fringe and often get worn on the ground while working animals. A solid hit on the target (your leg) is a little harder for them as the fringe makes the leg appear bigger and always moving.
Likely best to have a re-shaped hat than a re-shaped head
View attachment 295045
Howdy
I am new to FL but I am a self-diagnosed hataholic and I have the number of western hats to prove it!
Enjoyed this thread a lot. Seems to me you should wear what makes you feel good and not worry a bit about what folks think. Of course, I live in Texas and my family manufactured cowboy hats in Houston for 70 years so I have hats in my blood.
Have a good one
I am new to FL but I am a self-diagnosed hataholic and I have the number of western hats to prove it!
Enjoyed this thread a lot. Seems to me you should wear what makes you feel good and not worry a bit about what folks think. Of course, I live in Texas and my family manufactured cowboy hats in Houston for 70 years so I have hats in my blood.
Have a good one
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Rmccamey
I'll Lock Up
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Good to have you on the Lounge. We look forward to seeing your hats.
Modern Resistol.
Modern Resistol.
Well, thought I would start with a Fedora, the only one I own. One of my Dad’s hats. The body is from Germany in natural beaver and unfinished with a self band. This is from the early 80’s. I don’t think that very many were sold, most likely only at The Hat Store in Houston.
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I like the hat and love the long hair finish @Hatterson.
I’m partial to the crossover hats. These are westerns rather than cowboy and are a step passed the Open Road style away from fedoras.
This is a hat made by Michael Gannon:
I’m partial to the crossover hats. These are westerns rather than cowboy and are a step passed the Open Road style away from fedoras.
This is a hat made by Michael Gannon:
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Love those special finishes. Not everyone appreciates them, but I seek them out.
@mayserwegener can give us a PhD level dissertation on the making of velour, but I’ve never heard about the shark skin method.
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Brent, Sorry for the late reply. Shark Skin is one of the Scratching Methods used in Velour. German and Austrian Real Velour requires Wet Brushing and should be made from Hare Fur. Scratching takes place after Wet Brushing. Wet Brush -> Dry -> Scratch -> Wet Brush -> Wet Brush -> Scratch (prior to Brushing Machines the Brushing was done manually). I am not sure if anyone is doing Wet Brushing today as described below.
From the last Director of S. & J. Fraenkel Wien, Ebreichsdorfer Felt Hat Factory Gustav Menschel's book "Der Hut". This is very rare information.
Wet Brush Velour Production at close of S. & J. Fraenkel Wien, Ebreichsdorfer Felt Hat Factory (1972).
The above hat could be Soleil** which is a longer Hair Velour. I would have to see a close up of it brushed better (steam and brush with Nap) to see if it is clipped evenly.
** When the tips are clipped off and the hair is ironed all around or from top to bottom one talks about “Soleil”.
From "Hair Velour / Real (Echter) Velour / Prime (Prima) Velour Fabrikation von Damen- und Herren- Filzhüten, Der Deustchen Hutmacher Zeitung (1933)"
1930s Real Velour Soleil
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Short Balding Guy
I'll Lock Up
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Brent, Sorry for the late reply. Shark Skin is one of the Scratching Methods used in Velour. German and Austrian Real Velour requires Wet Brushing and should be made from Hare Fur. Scratching takes place after Wet Brushing. Wet Brush -> Dry -> Scratch -> Wet Brush -> Wet Brush -> Scratch (prior to Brushing Machines the Brushing was done manually). I am not sure if anyone is doing Wet Brushing today as described below.
From the last Director of S. & J. Fraenkel Wien, Ebreichsdorfer Felt Hat Factory Gustav Menschel's book "Der Hut". This is very rare information.
Wet Brush Velour Production at close of S. & J. Fraenkel Wien, Ebreichsdorfer Felt Hat Factory (1972).
The above hat could be Soleil** which is a longer Hair Velour. I would have to see a close up of it brushed better (steam and brush with Nap) to see if it is clipped evenly.
** When the tips are clipped off and the hair is ironed all around or from top to bottom one talks about “Soleil”.
From "Hair Velour / Real (Echter) Velour / Prime (Prima) Velour Fabrikation von Damen- und Herren- Filzhüten, Der Deustchen Hutmacher Zeitung (1933)"
1930s Real Velour Soleil
Thanks for the explanation and details. Very interesting list of operations. Cheers!
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Brent, Sorry for the late reply. Shark Skin is one of the Scratching Methods used in Velour. German and Austrian Real Velour requires Wet Brushing and should be made from Hare Fur. Scratching takes place after Wet Brushing. Wet Brush -> Dry -> Scratch -> Wet Brush -> Wet Brush -> Scratch (prior to Brushing Machines the Brushing was done manually). I am not sure if anyone is doing Wet Brushing today as described below.
From the last Director of S. & J. Fraenkel Wien, Ebreichsdorfer Felt Hat Factory Gustav Menschel's book "Der Hut". This is very rare information.
Wet Brush Velour Production at close of S. & J. Fraenkel Wien, Ebreichsdorfer Felt Hat Factory (1972).
The above hat could be Soleil** which is a longer Hair Velour. I would have to see a close up of it brushed better (steam and brush with Nap) to see if it is clipped evenly.
** When the tips are clipped off and the hair is ironed all around or from top to bottom one talks about “Soleil”.
From "Hair Velour / Real (Echter) Velour / Prime (Prima) Velour Fabrikation von Damen- und Herren- Filzhüten, Der Deustchen Hutmacher Zeitung (1933)"
1930s Real Velour Soleil
Thank you, Steve. I’m always blown away at both your knowledge and your willingness to share.
