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Looking for advice on Lee 101Z and 101 Riders Selvedge Jeans...

Snake Plissken

New in Town
Messages
6
Was hoping some of the experts around here could shed some light on the Lee 101Z and how they fit compared to the basic Levi’s 501 STF’s that you can buy pretty much everywhere.


I’ve only owned the 501 STF’s and have a love hate relationship with them. They also seem to change the cut every year and vary a ton from pair to pair of the same size. I am 6’2, 195lbs and an athletic build. Not into skinny jeans, and want a straight leg jean and can’t really wear a really slim jean because my thighs won’t fit in them. I usually buy the 501 STF in a 33x36 and after a hot soak they fit me well (I’m usually a 32x34 in pre-shrunk jeans). There are a few things I don't like about the 501 STF is the lower legs are really baggy and as mentioned above, they are inconsistent from one pair to the other, with some leg openings being bigger than others, waist being bigger, etc., on pairs of the same size.


Looking for something with a slightly smaller leg opening at the cuff that still has some room in the seat and thighs but isn’t loose or baggy. Would the Lee 101Z fit the bill? How do they compare to the 101 Riders? Would be nice to get some infer on them before shelling out for them since they’re pretty expensive (looking at the premium, selvedge version)


Thanks!
 

jonesy86

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,610
Location
Kauai
I am not an expert but there are a whole lot of different jeans in both cut and fabric using 501, and 101 monikers. Warning, major rabbit hole!

I have a pair of LEE 101 Z Jeans Dry Indigo Selvage 13.75oz which I am very happy with. The Lot 49 denim, which is just heavy enough for comfort while not feeling cheap and thin, with all the denim head talking points. The cut is what I remember from the 60s jeans, relatively loose and straight cut. They are Sanforized and should not shrink, and have not produced super fades, thought I have not washed them too frequently, usually by hand, and never in hot water.

As for the 501s, I like LEVI'S® VINTAGE CLOTHING 1954 501 Rigid V2 12oz. Again relatively loose and straight cut, not super heavy weight, but quite comfy, with all the denim head top hits. These are shrink to fit, and they did a little, but stretched out again. I mostly wash then by hand in cold water.

I like zippers and hate tight jeans. These both remind me of the way jeans " used to be". The LEVI'S® VINTAGE CLOTHING 1967 505 Rigid 14oz are probably the closest to what I wore most as a kid, and these are one of my favorite jeans.

Not cheap, but I think they are worth it. I bought them from Cultizm:

https://www.cultizm.com/us/levi-s-vintage-clothing/
 

Snake Plissken

New in Town
Messages
6
I am not an expert but there are a whole lot of different jeans in both cut and fabric using 501, and 101 monikers. Warning, major rabbit hole!

I have a pair of LEE 101 Z Jeans Dry Indigo Selvage 13.75oz which I am very happy with. The Lot 49 denim, which is just heavy enough for comfort while not feeling cheap and thin, with all the denim head talking points. The cut is what I remember from the 60s jeans, relatively loose and straight cut. They are Sanforized and should not shrink, and have not produced super fades, thought I have not washed them too frequently, usually by hand, and never in hot water.

As for the 501s, I like LEVI'S® VINTAGE CLOTHING 1954 501 Rigid V2 12oz. Again relatively loose and straight cut, not super heavy weight, but quite comfy, with all the denim head top hits. These are shrink to fit, and they did a little, but stretched out again. I mostly wash then by hand in cold water.

I like zippers and hate tight jeans. These both remind me of the way jeans " used to be". The LEVI'S® VINTAGE CLOTHING 1967 505 Rigid 14oz are probably the closest to what I wore most as a kid, and these are one of my favorite jeans.

Not cheap, but I think they are worth it. I bought them from Cultizm:

https://www.cultizm.com/us/levi-s-vintage-clothing/

Thanks for this. I ended up ordering a few pair of Lee in different sizes (101 Z) hoping one of them will fit. Also saw a pair of the Made & Crafted 501's for $79 on the Levis site (have a Warehouse Sale right now). I know those 501's aren't raw or selvedge denim, but when my legs were smaller I had a pair of the Made & Crafted 502's that were great. I've just been deadlifting and swatting a lot and most of my pants now no longer fit in the thighs.
 

Snake Plissken

New in Town
Messages
6
The Lee's arrived. Well, the 101Z's arrived. 33x34 seem to be the ticket. They're not really "relaxed" per se, more like a straight leg jean. I am 6'2, 195-200lbs and have been squatting and deadlifting a ton lately, so the thighs have been a problem with fitting jeans recently. The 101Z looks like a nice straight leg jean on me, classic look, not even close to being relaxed or baggy. The 101 Riders advent arrived yet, but I'm going to say they probably won't fit if the 101Z are a relaxed version of the 101 Rider because of the thigh.

I also ordered a pair of LVC 1967 505 in 34x34 and they're very nice. Even though they're one size larger in the waist than the Lee's they're a little tighter in the thighs in comparison. Overall I think the Lee 101Z fit better.

The quality of both pair, Lee and LVC are high. The Lee's are a bit of a different color than what you'd usually expect. A little lighter shade compared to the darker Levis, but still REALLY nice (and I actually prefer their color over the Levis). I'd even go as far as saying the Lee's may be just a little nicer as far as fit and finish/quality just edging out the Levis because of a little better attention to detail on some of the small details, and they are quite a bit less expensive than the Levis.
 
Last edited:

Raul

One of the Regulars
Messages
113
Location
Italy
As I already have two pairs of the Lee 101z japan (about 10 years old) I recently bought a pair of the new 101Riders (europen premium series) and posted about them here: https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/what-jeans-are-you-wearing-today.99747/page-19#post-2678659
I like them and the quality is very good, especially for the price. I think the new 101Z should have the same quality.
About 501 I agree with jonesy86, my preferred cut is the 54, I don't like too baggy jeans, I have two in dry (V1, cone mills made in USA) and two "washed" made in turkey. I like them all by the way
 

Snake Plissken

New in Town
Messages
6
As I already have two pairs of the Lee 101z japan (about 10 years old) I recently bought a pair of the new 101Riders (europen premium series) and posted about them here: https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/what-jeans-are-you-wearing-today.99747/page-19#post-2678659
I like them and the quality is very good, especially for the price. I think the new 101Z should have the same quality.
About 501 I agree with jonesy86, my preferred cut is the 54, I don't like too baggy jeans, I have two in dry (V1, cone mills made in USA) and two "washed" made in turkey. I like them all by the way

what is the fit like of the 101 Riders compared to the 101Z?
 
Last edited:

Raul

One of the Regulars
Messages
113
Location
Italy
definitely slimmer in the legs, you can see it also from the pics in my post quoted above. As I already have the 101z (old japanese, not the new european) this time I wanted a slimmer cut and I choose the Rider
 

Snake Plissken

New in Town
Messages
6
definitely slimmer in the legs, you can see it also from the pics in my post quoted above. As I already have the 101z (old japanese, not the new european) this time I wanted a slimmer cut and I choose the Rider

Thank you. The 101Z fits me like a slim fit in the thighs (with plenty of room in the waist) so there’s no way the Riders will fit me. Thanks for the quick reply!
 

regius

My Mail is Forwarded Here
Messages
3,297
Location
New York
Was hoping some of the experts around here could shed some light on the Lee 101Z and how they fit compared to the basic Levi’s 501 STF’s that you can buy pretty much everywhere.


I’ve only owned the 501 STF’s and have a love hate relationship with them. They also seem to change the cut every year and vary a ton from pair to pair of the same size. I am 6’2, 195lbs and an athletic build. Not into skinny jeans, and want a straight leg jean and can’t really wear a really slim jean because my thighs won’t fit in them. I usually buy the 501 STF in a 33x36 and after a hot soak they fit me well (I’m usually a 32x34 in pre-shrunk jeans). There are a few things I don't like about the 501 STF is the lower legs are really baggy and as mentioned above, they are inconsistent from one pair to the other, with some leg openings being bigger than others, waist being bigger, etc., on pairs of the same size.


Looking for something with a slightly smaller leg opening at the cuff that still has some room in the seat and thighs but isn’t loose or baggy. Would the Lee 101Z fit the bill? How do they compare to the 101 Riders? Would be nice to get some infer on them before shelling out for them since they’re pretty expensive (looking at the premium, selvedge version)


Thanks!
I have a pair of the 18oz coral denim bought from Aero, made in Italy, the fabric is absolutely amazing, I only wish they make jacket from it, it has a "teacore" undertone, vs the regular white underside, but the fit is not what I'm hoping for (101z I'm talking about, with dark brown leather badge), the thigh is a bit tight for my waist size (34), and the rise is low even though it's mid rise. I think it's a typical contemporary fit but not my thing
 

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