Aero Premier HWM Fit Feedback

Alex321 · Jul 16, 2020

Hi Folks!

I recently received my very first Aero via Thurston Bros (thanks, Carrie!). I went through the fit jacket process, but actually decided to just keep the fit jacket, which is pictured below (and move a custom project on to a Hooch Hauler...).

Anyway, I'm hoping for some additional feedback on fit/style issues that I might improve on a future premier-pattern jacket (30s HB, Seabiscuit, etc...), or perhaps learn about patterns that might even better suit my narrow-ish, average frame (Sheene? Seven? Other?).

For example, while I find this PHWM fits very well, it feels like I could possibly benefit from slightly more shoulder length for when layered and zipped (which I guess would mean going up a size in the premier cuts, or going with a different pattern?). Also, the neck/collar fits very snug and my square shoulder line pushes it farther forward, which slightly exacerbates the tightness. I'm wondering, though, if that's just an issue that will loosen up with wear, as many (thick) seams meet at the collar? Of course I need to simply wear it...

The leather is Seal Vicenza. It looks subdued in dim artificial light and quite dynamic in natural brighter light. It wears quite comfortably, but certainly not "light" (though, take that with a grain of salt, as I don't own anything heavier as a point of reference...). I'm really happy with this jacket - wearing it around the house in the middle of July like an idiot!

Any thoughts appreciated...

(and sorry for the quality of the photos, but my 8-year-old did his best with my phone in poor light)

stmike · Jul 16, 2020

I think it looks great on you!

Imuricecreamman · Jul 16, 2020

I'd say you nailed it. Some like them a bit shorter (me) but I would wear the shit out of that one. Lovely shape to the collar as well.

Marc mndt · Jul 16, 2020

Alex, welcome to tfd. That's a great looking jacket. Congrats. I wouldn't go up in shoulder width. Looks spot on, accommodating some layering. I honestly think this jacket is a very good fit. If I had to name one thing, I would try a shorter sleeve length, not much maybe 2cm. But that's just personal preference. I think lots of people here on the lounge will disagree with me

Psant25 · Jul 16, 2020

Looks like a great fit! Congrats

nick123 · Jul 16, 2020

Looks top notch to me!

Will Zach · Jul 16, 2020

This is a fine fit. Do you have a shot of the back, zipped?

Boyo · Jul 16, 2020

Nice Jacket!.. Photographically its looks pretty perfect. but the proof is in how it feels, take some measurements of the jacket and save them, give the jacket some time to break-in/loosen up ( steady wear for 6 months /a full Winter season) does it feel any better?.. After the break-in process re-measure and compare with original measurements, see if the jacket/leather "moved" at all, if so make those new #'s your go to measurements moving forward..

Alex321 · Jul 16, 2020

Will Zach said:
This is a fine fit. Do you have a shot of the back, zipped?

Thanks! No, sorry, I didn't have the back photoed. I'm off to a camping trip, but will try and post a shot of the back this weekend...In the event that the back is sloppy, what customizable factors would lead to correction? Are there front to back balance issues that are possible to adjust? Also wondering if there is a "square vs sloped" shoulder option in the fit process, which I neglected to ask about. But that's why I asked about alternative patterns - some that might be better for square shoulders, others for sloped, etc...

Alex321 · Jul 16, 2020

Boyo said:
Nice Jacket!.. Photographically its looks pretty perfect. but the proof is in how it feels, take some measurements of the jacket and save them, give the jacket some time to break-in/loosen up ( steady wear for 6 months /a full Winter season) does it feel any better?.. After the break-in process re-measure and compare with original measurements, see if the jacket/leather "moved" at all, if so make those new #'s your go to measurements moving forward..

Very helpful...thanks!

Will Zach · Jul 16, 2020

Alex321 said:
Thanks! No, sorry, I didn't have the back photoed. I'm off to a camping trip, but will try and post a shot of the back this weekend...In the event that the back is sloppy, what customizable factors would lead to correction? Are there front to back balance issues that are possible to adjust? Also wondering if there is a "square vs sloped" shoulder option in the fit process, which I neglected to ask about. But that's why I asked about alternative patterns - some that might be better for square shoulders, others for sloped, etc...

Premier HWM tends to have a "boxy" fit. I believe some members here alleviated it by a custom taper. Hopefully someone who did it successfully will chime in.

HoosierDaddy · Jul 16, 2020

Great fit. Looks good. My first Aero Highwayman ( purchased 20 years ago ) which I first thought was too tight in the shoulders did loosen up gradually after few months of wearing it through the fall and into the winter months ( thanks to Ken's suggestion of giving it some time ). It has been comfy to wear since. I still often grab it when heading out the door.
HD

AeroFan_07 · Jul 16, 2020

Alex that looks very nice in my opinion. I think you (And Carrie) got it nearly 100% right the first time. She is great to work with. And the PHWM is the right way to go if you have a more athletic build, as you clearly do. Glad you 8-year old was able to share in your experace here.

Feel free to add to and check out this thread that has a lot more info: https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/highwayman-zip-sleeve-highwayman-database.99955/

jacketjunkie · Jul 16, 2020

Aero does not offer different shoulder shapes nor any other pattern changes other than body and sleeve length and if you're lucky some taper in the body, like a size 40 jacket with a size 38 bottom hem or in other words -2" in the body. You're not going to score better than this tbh, it's a good fit. If you're unhappy with this fit, which again is great from what can be seen on pictures, you have to look elsewhere. E.g. Langlitz offers their jackets with three different shoulder shapes.

Finn Vigorous · Jul 16, 2020

Great looking jacket and the fit is spot on.

As HD said, the shoulder area will loosen up a bit gradually overall but based on my own experiences, the shoulder stitches pretty much stay where they are after all.

I've had quite a many regular HWMs and as I've been losing some weight lately decided to take the Premier route for my next Highwayman. Yet I found the shoulder to hem ratio extremely tricky for my body type and decided to go for my normal size of 42 with 1" added to the shoulder width and 1" taper towards the hem on both sides. As for a reference, I wear a size 40 Sheene, which is a tad on the slim side as intended to be used without layering, and a size 42 Premier Work Coat perfect with a bit thicker layers for the colder seasons.

The up-coming PHWM has been in the process for a while but will post pics when I finally got it.

If you're about to customize an Aero jacket more than the usual length issues, I suggest to pay a visit to Galashiels to discuss the matter.

Cyber Lip · Jul 16, 2020

I have an issue with the fit of the Premier collar as well. Not the collar itself but the way the neck hole is cut. It's oblong going up and down, instead of round or oblong going side to side, like a standard neck hole. I have a Premier half-belt in Vicenza and I didn't really notice it on that jacket, but then I got a Premier Highwayman in CXL and it's freaking unforgiving with the stiffer leather lol. I worked on it and got it to where it's not so bad unzipped, but zipped...forget about it, the sides of the collar dig into my neck. And I have a normal to thin neck btw, if I had a stocky neck it would be ridiculous. Strange, as the cut of the jacket is made for a stocky-ish frame

MrProper · Jul 16, 2020

What I've read, the HWM has a boxier fit. For me personally it would be too wide. But I prefer a tight fit. On this jacket the shoulder width, P2P and hem / waist would be too wide for me.
But that's personal taste. Great if you feel comfortable in it.

Alex321 · Jul 16, 2020

jacketjunkie said:
Aero does not offer different shoulder shapes nor any other pattern changes other than body and sleeve length and if you're lucky some taper in the body, like a size 40 jacket with a size 38 bottom hem or in other words -2" in the body. You're not going to score better than this tbh, it's a good fit. If you're unhappy with this fit, which again is great from what can be seen on pictures, you have to look elsewhere. E.g. Langlitz offers their jackets with three different shoulder shapes.

Thanks! I'm definitely very happy with this jacket...I'm just getting feedback to confirm or deny my own assessments since I don't really have much experience with leather fits - my only reference points have been online photos, which can be misleading. I'm also asking because I want to delve further into this jacket world, but kind of lucked into this, so...

Alex321 · Jul 16, 2020

Cyber Lip said:
I have an issue with the fit of the Premier collar as well. Not the collar itself but the way the neck hole is cut. It's oblong going up and down, instead of round or oblong going side to side, like a standard neck hole. I have a Premier half-belt in Vicenza and I didn't really notice it on that jacket, but then I got a Premier Highwayman in CXL and it's freaking unforgiving with the stiffer leather lol. I worked on it and got it to where it's not so bad unzipped, but zipped...forget about it, the sides of the collar dig into my neck. And I have a normal to thin neck btw, if I had a stocky neck it would be ridiculous. Strange, as the cut of the jacket is made for a stocky-ish frame

Exactly = oblong. The Vicenza might be my friend with this...

AeroFan_07 · Jul 16, 2020

Careful Alex - once you fall into these waters - they get rather deep and your wallet hurts quickly.

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