French cyclist jacket (Hartmann jacket - not ELC)

Kermit · Sep 15, 2020

That's it, I got my "Hartmann" jacket !

The quality is absolutely sublime ! I was hoping for something very beautiful, and I must admit that it is even better...
I will give you my impressions in detail later. For the moment here are the first pictures (sorry for the quality, at night with a smartphone).
Please give me your impressions. Do you think the size fits ?

Monitor · Sep 15, 2020

I think it's great!

handymike · Sep 15, 2020

It looks fantastic!
Now you need the proper trousers to wear with it...

Robbie79 · Sep 16, 2020

Congrats! IMO the fit is very good and I think it's a beautiful jacket. Please share more information about the maker and leather type, etc.

Kermit · Sep 16, 2020

Thank you very much for your feedback.

I take the time to give you my impressions.

This jacket was made by a small French artisan. If you are interested, I can give you his coordinates in PM

The leather is fantastic. Both flexible and solid (... and how good it smells!), the zip, the buttons, the lining, everything is at the top.

It's hard for me to compare it to other equivalent products on the market because I haven't had them in my hands, but no doubt this jacket is exactly what I was looking for.

However, I think the size is not exactly right for me. I will send this jacket back to make a custom one (Always at the same artisan).
Indeed even if we do not realize it in the photos, overall the bottom of the jacket arrives at 3/4 cm above the belt (even on high waist pants). I think the sleeves could be slightly longer as well.

I know this kind of jacket is worn short, but I am very tall and thin (I have a long bust), and I feel a bit like wearing a bolero, especially when the jacket is open.

So I prefer to wait a little longer and have a beautiful jacket that fits me perfectly.

Seb Lucas · Sep 16, 2020

I think you have made the right decision.

RockSolid · Sep 16, 2020

Hello, nice jacket but i agree that it is a bit too short, how much did you pay?
And where is this artisan located? I'm also french and could be interested to use his services depending on where he is based

navetsea · Sep 16, 2020

I think the armhole can also be made higher since it is a custom made, and the chest and shoulder of that jacket is too big on you.

jonbuilder · Sep 16, 2020

I agree you will need a custom sizing. I know some here want to wear their jacket longer than the design length but with your langy frame stock sizes just do not work.

AeroFan_07 · Sep 17, 2020

100% agree - it's a little too "High water" of appearance and I could not myself sport that jacket. I admit the style lends itself to a short jacket, but IMHO it s a bit short on you overall. Still a nice and unique, simple, and quite stylish jacket you found there.

dudewuttheheck · Sep 17, 2020

handymike said:
It looks fantastic!
Now you need the proper trousers to wear with it...

Was going to say the same thing. The jacket looks good and seems like a decent fit, but the OP needs higher rise jeans and trousers to wear with the jacket. The low rise jeans make the jacket look too short, but it's probably a good length with the right trousers. With that said, the chest and especially the bottom does look a little loose.

Seb Lucas · Sep 17, 2020

navetsea said:
I think the armhole can also be made higher since it is a custom made, and the chest and shoulder of that jacket is too big on you.

I see what you're saying about the armhole and upper body.

bn1966 · Sep 17, 2020

Totally stunning jacket, I’d want it very fractionally longer but not much

LZHA · Sep 18, 2020

A very nice jacket, great fit for a leather jacket.

Turnip · Sep 18, 2020

Fine jacket but looks at least to me pretty much like a „German“ flight jacket named after Erich Hartmann, rather than a cycling jacket, to be honest.

Marc mndt · Sep 18, 2020

Turnip said:
Fine jacket but looks at least to me pretty much like a „German“ flight jacket named after Erich Hartmann, rather than a cycling jacket, to be honest.

If I'm correct, there were no official German flight jackets. There was a 'bring your own jacket' policy. Erich hartmann just happened to wear this jacket style.

Turnip · Sep 18, 2020

Hard to imagine considering the German regulatory delusion...

Depends certainly on the rank, i think to remember having seen official NCO leather flight jackets some time ago. But maybe I’m wrong of course.

Hartmann has for sure been permitted to wear whatever he wanted, in doubt he could also have started in FlipFlops and Hawaii shirt if he wanted to...

Anyway, nice jacket!

bn1966 · Sep 18, 2020

I was under the impression that Luftwaffe pilots purchased French cycling jackets because they worked well in a cockpit & were very stylish.

Kermit · Sep 20, 2020

I finally decided to keep my jacket as is.
I think it would have been a mistake to change it. The cut is short and that's what makes it special.
As you advised me, I bought high waist pants and it works much better!
(I'll have to find other shoes, maybe leather boots ?)

Here are some pictures :

Kermit · Sep 20, 2020

Turnip said:
Hard to imagine considering the German regulatory delusion...

Depends certainly on the rank, i think to remember having seen official NCO leather flight jackets some time ago. But maybe I’m wrong of course.

Hartmann has for sure been permitted to wear whatever he wanted, in doubt he could also have started in FlipFlops and Hawaii shirt if he wanted to...

Anyway, nice jacket!

You are right,

There is only one official leather jacket for pilots :

Many pilots used civilian jackets (cyclist jackets). It was a privilege reserved for them, but nothing was official.
These jackets were close to the body. It was convenient to fly in the narrow cockpit of their planes. They were also careful to wear an elegant jacket.

But it was above all a civilian jacket which was very fashionable in France in the years 1930-1940.
It was also very much used by French partisans.

French cyclist jacket (Hartmann jacket - not ELC)

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