Help, shoeheads... work boot tiers: Wesco/Viberg/White's

I've been looking into top-end heritage work boots (excluding the super crazy expensive/exclusive Japanese homage stuff), and if I understand things, it appears Wesco and Viberg are pretty much equal with regards to build quality and materials, while White's is equal in terms of materials, but perhaps a half-step behind in terms of build quality? Is that the general consensus?

By that I mean all three manufacturers use a lot of the same leathers from the same tanneries, but in many of the reviews I have read, people talk about the Wesco and Viberg boots being essentially perfect, without a stitch out of place... While I have read a review of the White's versus a Red Wing, and while the White's was certainly on another level, it wasn't perfect... the odd loose stitch here and there.

So Wesco and Viberg tie for first place, with White's a close second?

Anyway, if I have it wrong, I apologize, not trying to step on anyone's toes... Just trying to get the lay of the land.

I do own all three brands. I would rank Viberg and Wesco's build quality above White's but I am pretty sure stitching on Viberg and Wesco are not perfect but at least they don't seem to have the mis-matching heels like White's.

Of course it depends on the boot model, but I would say nobody is buying Viberg to do any actual work in them.. they are "almost" a High end/fashion boot company now. While Wesco certainly has a few fashion-y models. they do still make boots that people work in same as Whites

I went with White’s via their eBay store... But had to cancel the order due to their inability to sort out a really simple shipping issue that wasn’t my fault to begin with.

Regarding the Vibergs, I admit that since starting this thread I have stumbled upon a few more threads which call into question the durability of their recent offerings, and similarly worded claims of them being a little too close to fashion boots these days.

So I guess this leaves Wesco!

Vibergs are mostly fashion material these days.

White's are excellent quality Work Boots with a great arch support, however ownership of thier company has changed in the past few years (much like Filson). Some do not like the direction the new owenrship have taken the company, but it has expeanded into new territory. Do a little research, it's all out there. i have 6 pair of White's of various ages presently.

Nick's boots are similar to White's however are still locally owned and managed there in Spokane, WA. Very similar concept. more pronounced arch support than say, Red Wings (what I grew up wearing in the Midwest) and exceptionally high quality build. Both these are quite heavy but you get used to the heft. I have 3 pair of Nick's.

I have little experance with Wesco outside a pair of Pull-on Engineers I tried a year or two back, but the toe box did not work with my feet. My understanding is they have steel shanks and a slightly lower arch support. The 7400's I tried seemed to fit that description.

If you are looking for a less work realted boot that looks great and is very well built at a reasonable cost and do not mind a farily flat footbed, there is nothing wrong with the Red Wing Iron Ranger. I have a pair that are 9 years old and going quite well still.

But don't take my work for it, take the Bandsaw's word instead - nothing like seeing a boot cut open....

AeroFan_07 said:

Vibergs are mostly fashion material these days.

White's are excellent quality Work Boots with a great arch support, however ownership of thier company has changed in the past few years (much like Filson). Some do not like the direction the new owenrship have taken the company, but it has expeanded into new territory. Do a little research, it's all out there. i have 6 pair of White's of various ages presently.

Nick's boots are similar to White's however are still locally owned and managed there in Spokane, WA. Very similar concept. more pronounced arch support than say, Red Wings (what I grew up wearing in the Midwest) and exceptionally high quality build. Both these are quite heavy but you get used to the heft. I have 3 pair of Nick's.

I have little experance with Wesco outside a pair of Pull-on Engineers I tried a year or two back, but the toe box did not work with my feet. My understanding is they have steel shanks and a slightly lower arch support. The 7400's I tried seemed to fit that description.

If you are looking for a less work realted boot that looks great and is very well built at a reasonable cost and do not mind a farily flat footbed, there is nothing wrong with the Red Wing Iron Ranger. I have a pair that are 9 years old and going quite well still.

But don't take my work for it, take the Bandsaw's word instead - nothing like seeing a boot cut open...

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Iron... Range...ers? What are these Iron Rangers you speak of?..

So maybe I've got the wrong end of the stick regarding Viberg...

Are they leaning toward a fashion brand because their construction/build quality has fallen off?

Or merely because lately they are enamored with hides better suited for fashion boots than hard-wearing work boots?

If the latter is the case, then assuming I choose a Viberg constructed of a hard-wearing hide, I'm be good to go... Right?

1) I don't find my Vibergs inferior in terms of build quality. White's are good boots in terms of protection and fit but they just couldn't care less if the heels match or not cos they are "WORK" boots (one bigger than the other or one higher than the other is usual for them) so I would rather not pay the premium to have exotic leather (CXL, shell cordovan etc). Personally I would just stick with the basic Hathorn line with basic oil leather.
2) Viberg still has the workwear line that most people on menswear forums ignore because they want exotic leather, repro soles etc. You see the same sort of marketing with Red Wing, Wesco and White's too in their high end lines with premium leather and reproduction of old lasts and style. Only difference I see is Viberg went further with the retro repro Cat's Paw soles which are completely outdated and crappy compared to Vibram. Incidentally, I don't know if Wesco's repro soles from Dr Sole is good or not.
This is the Viberg "WORK" boot website-
https://workboot.com/collections/viberg
The Viberg workboot collection is missing the Engineer. I think they discontinued the Engineer a couple of years ago probably due to the fact that the style is no longer a functional work boot style but more menswear oriented (even for bikers) these days.

Rather than focusing on one brand why not decide what kind of boot you want and take it from there? All these brands have their pros and cons. If you are into service boots don’t know if Viberg can be beaten. If you want packer boots than Viberg is out of the game... If you want engineers... go Japanese...

Blackadder said:

2) Viberg still has the workwear line that most people on menswear forums ignore because they want exotic leather, repro soles etc. You see the same sort of marketing with Red Wing, Wesco and White's too in their high end lines with premium leather and reproduction of old lasts and style. Only difference I see is Viberg went further with the retro repro Cat's Paw soles which are completely outdated and crappy compared to Vibram. Incidentally, I don't know if Wesco's repro soles from Dr Sole is good or not.
This is the Viberg "WORK" boot website-
https://workboot.com/collections/viberg
The Viberg workboot collection is missing the Engineer. I think they discontinued the Engineer a couple of years ago probably due to the fact that the style is no longer a functional work boot style but more menswear oriented (even for bikers) these days.

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Thanks for the update on this, I had not been to thier work boot site. I see they make "work specific" boot still. Good to know.

Regarding the notes on White's and the Hawtorn series, those are more of the Goodyear welted boot type. The true White's - only are generally stitchdown construction. I have noted they are moving away from the use of the brand-name Hawthorn and simply adjusting models by price.

Hope that helps and my apologies for making an incorrect statement about Viberg.

I have never owned Vibergs, but have owned several pairs of Wescos and multiple pairs of White's. To say that White's are not as well-built as Wesco boots would be completely wrong, in my opinion, but that would also depend on how you define "well-built" - tough and durable, or pretty? Both companies build good solid work boots, although I do prefer the higher arch support and leather shank of the White's. The Wesco steel shank will rust and, eventually, break in two after some years in the outdoors.

The complaints you hear from White's customers about "missed stitches" crack me up. Some folks buy work boots, from a work boot company, then complain that they're not built like dress shoes, with flawless stitching and cork fillers to make the boots more "comfy". They're WORK boots, for Pete's sake, built to take a beating in the outdoors!

And yes, I'm exaggerating somewhat to make a point, but I stand by the principle of my statement. I guess these companies are trying to broaden their customer base by starting to build "fancier" shoes, but I wish they'd just stick to doing what they do well - building true work boots. Let the other companies build "dress" work boots.

Woodtroll said:

I have never owned Vibergs, but have owned several pairs of Wescos and multiple pairs of White's. To say that White's are not as well-built as Wesco boots would be completely wrong, in my opinion, but that would also depend on how you define "well-built" - tough and durable, or pretty? Both companies build good solid work boots, although I do prefer the higher arch support and leather shank of the White's. The Wesco steel shank will rust and, eventually, break in two after some years in the outdoors.

The complaints you hear from White's customers about "missed stitches" crack me up. Some folks buy work boots, from a work boot company, then complain that they're not built like dress shoes, with flawless stitching and cork fillers to make the boots more "comfy". They're WORK boots, for Pete's sake, built to take a beating in the outdoors!

And yes, I'm exaggerating somewhat to make a point, but I stand by the principle of my statement. I guess these companies are trying to broaden their customer base by starting to build "fancier" shoes, but I wish they'd just stick to doing what they do well - building true work boots. Let the other companies build "dress" work boots.

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Well, since starting this post, I’ve handled a few Whites... Firstly, they are not work boots. They are fashionable throw-back work boots... There’s a difference. True modern work boots do not cost north of $600. There is no doubt that the White’s will more than hold up to a beating. But if we’re talking pure functionality, then there is equally no doubt that compared to basically indestructible and far lighter-weight synthetics, the White’s (as do all of the above-discussed) use obsolete materials in their construction. There have been advancements in work boots in the years since the Titanic sank, after all. The utilization in old-school materials and old-school construction is a nod to heritage, and let’s be honest, fashion. And that’s fine. If I were after a really nice pair of pure work boots, I’d be looking elsewhere, and planning to spend perhaps $200. But I want something that both takes a beating and looks great. So part of that is being “pretty”. And the White’s that I handled simply didn’t impress in that capacity. Stitching imperfections, mismatched heels, puckering in the toes. If I’m looking for tough boots, and willing to pay a pretty hefty premium for the pretty factor... then I expect more for my coin, frankly.

Based on the above, Id advise you focus on Wescos and or Nicks

Bender said:

Well, since starting this post, I’ve handled a few Whites... Firstly, they are not work boots. They are fashionable throw-back work boots... There’s a difference. True modern work boots do not cost north of $600. There is no doubt that the White’s will more than hold up to a beating. But if we’re talking pure functionality, then there is equally no doubt that compared to basically indestructible and far lighter-weight synthetics, the White’s (as do all of the above-discussed) use obsolete materials in their construction. There have been advancements in work boots in the years since the Titanic sank, after all. The utilization in old-school materials and old-school construction is a nod to heritage, and let’s be honest, fashion. And that’s fine. If I were after a really nice pair of pure work boots, I’d be looking elsewhere, and planning to spend perhaps $200. But I want something that both takes a beating and looks great. So part of that is being “pretty”. And the White’s that I handled simply didn’t impress in that capacity. Stitching imperfections, mismatched heels, puckering in the toes. If I’m looking for tough boots, and willing to pay a pretty hefty premium for the pretty factor... then I expect more for my coin, frankly.

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I assure you that the folks I know, including myself, buy White’s, Wescos, Nick’s, and Drew’s boots as work boots for their proven performance in the work we do. If you’re digging line, working in the woods, or in your boots occasionally for 24-36 hours at a time, “fashion” and “pretty” are very low on the priority list. Synthetics do not work well on the fire line, although some have shown limited promise in recent years. And, they're not rebuildable.

It’s obvious that we are not after the same thing in boots. You stated earlier that White’s build quality is subpar to Wesco, and in my field experience of more than 40 years that is simply not true. And I’ve done a lot more than “handle a few pair” of boots. So I have nothing more to offer you in way of advice, except that maybe you’d be happier with “pretty” work boots that cost a couple thousand dollars and were never meant to make it further afield than the carpet of an office cubicle or the concrete of a sidewalk. And I certainly don't need a lecture on what a work boot is.

Good luck in your quest. I hope you find your ideal pair of fashionable boots.

Woodtroll said:

I assure you that the folks I know, including myself, buy White’s, Wescos, Nick’s, and Drew’s boots as work boots for their proven performance in the work we do. If you’re digging line, working in the woods, or in your boots occasionally for 24-36 hours at a time, “fashion” and “pretty” are very low on the priority list. Synthetics do not work well on the fire line, although some have shown limited promise in recent years. And, they're not rebuildable.

It’s obvious that we are not after the same thing in boots. You stated earlier that White’s build quality is subpar to Wesco, and in my field experience of more than 40 years that is simply not true. And I’ve done a lot more than “handle a few pair” of boots. So I have nothing more to offer you in way of advice, except that maybe you’d be happier with “pretty” work boots that cost a couple thousand dollars and were never meant to make it further afield than the carpet of an office cubicle or the concrete of a sidewalk. And I certainly don't need a lecture on what a work boot is.

Good luck in your quest. I hope you find your ideal pair of fashionable boots.

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Wasn’t trying to offend you, but I’m not about to get into a pissing contest about who does more work in the field... Because A. I have nothing to prove, and B. that’s a frankly ridiculous thing to say. I mean, really, man. You’re literally posting on a website dedicated to discussing fashion. Or maybe you’re just here because the FL servers caught on fire, and you smoke-jumped in to put them out? Come on.

Listen, all I’m saying is that there are plenty of modern high tech boots that are ultra tough, ultra lightweight, keep your feet dry, wick moisture, manage temperature... and all sorts of other magical things. And they run anywhere from $150 to north of $300. But they don’t dress up well with a pair of jeans. The boots we’re discussing here do, and that’s what the 100% premium is about. The heritage/fashion aspect. To pretend it’s not is just silly.

So if we can accept the fact that we both like tough work boots that are also pretty (without holding our manhood any less dear), then we can also accept the fact that loose stitching, mismatched heels, and puckered toes ain’t a great return for the above-mentioned premium. Just saying.

No, I guess we'll have to agree to disagree. You asked a question about "work boots" (remember the title of your thread). I offered an answer based on my experience. You tell me the boots in question are not work boots after all, based on "handling a few". Then you tell me that I only wear the boots to be fashionable, when there are much better choices out there (try to resole or rebuild a synthetic boot!). And as a side note, The Fedora Lounge is not intended as a "fashion" website, but is a hat website, with other discussion about things related to the Golden Era. The "fashion" aspect is only a very small piece of this site.

So I answered your question, you tell me I'm wrong on many levels. As I said, I have nothing more to offer you.

Woodtroll said:

No, I guess we'll have to agree to disagree. You asked a question about "work boots" (remember the title of your thread). I offered an answer based on my experience. You tell me the boots in question are not work boots after all, based on "handling a few". Then you tell me that I only wear the boots to be fashionable, when there are much better choices out there (try to resole or rebuild a synthetic boot!). And as a side note, The Fedora Lounge is not intended as a "fashion" website, but is a hat website, with other discussion about things related to the Golden Era. The "fashion" aspect is only a very small piece of this site.

So I answered your question, you tell me I'm wrong on many levels. As I said, I have nothing more to offer you.

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With respect, you’ve just been kind of deliberately disingenuous. Your posts have willfully ignored the very clear difference between a heritage work boot that is very tough but also fashionable, like, say, a White’s Semi-Dress or 350... and, say, a Haix Protector, which is a modern, tech-loaded dedicated work-boot... and doesn’t look good on anyone. Unless they are really into lime green. Like, really into lime green.

You also seem to want to suggest I believe White’s are nothing more than fashion boots, and ignore the fact that I have never said the White’s aren’t durable, bomb-proof boots. On the contrary, I have said they are. Several times now. But that’s not their thrust in 2020. They are throwback work boots utilizing 100 year old tech. They are not intended to compete with something like the Haix. Listen, I don’t think my overall point has been that complex... I just think the average worker in 2020 isn’t going to reach for a $600+ pair of White’s, Wescos, or Vibergs if they are in the market for a top-end modern work boot. They are going to spend around half that on a pair of Haix or similar.

And for the record, if we are discussing dedicated work boots, then I agree with your sentiments. I wouldn’t really care if a pair of Haix had a few aesthetic foibles. It’s a dedicated modern work boot. The White’s are not. They are heritage pieces. Tough as nails, sure, but that’s not what the premium over the Haix is for. It’s ostensibly for the attention to detail, fit-and-finish, and “heritage build quality”... You know, the stuff that makes a boot pretty. Wesco takes that aspect of their fit and finish seriously. So does Viberg. I don’t understand why you’d be an apologist of White’s lagging behind in this area... If you’re a fan of the marque, don’t you want to encourage them to do better?

In any event, you may be pleased to know that I do not believe that White’s is somehow incapable of making boots with high levels of fit and finish... In fact, I wandered into one of my favorite stores today, and it so happened they were willing to sell from their selection of sizer pairs, as they can’t take custom orders for the foreseeable future due to COVID. I picked up a Semi-Dress in burgundy CXL with medallion caps and Vibram 100s for a handsome discount... This pair is well-stitched, has matched heels, and is pucker-free at the toes. And again, should be able to take a good whalloping when required. Not bad, not bad.

"I’ve handled a few Whites... Firstly, they are not work boots."

Interesting thread. It is also a clear example for me that there are those that don't know, what they don't know. A lot of new technology is available to build a modern boot.

And still, for some specific uses, nothing better than leather, hand sewing and wooden pegs. For others it is nylon, high tech glue and carbon fiber. No doubt in my mind which is easier on your feet. And which one is more durable.

Me, I am a Danner fan. Not their import line but the ones still made in the Portland OR factory. A well made boot at a good price point.

Tl/dnr: Viberg.

I'm "new" here, too, been lurking awhile, and finally feel able to contribute [not that I'm new to leather jackets, etc., my dad (RIP) was among other things a veteran (WW2 Canadian Senior Officer) and taught me a lot, as dads do, but still learning, as are we all, and what got me to sign up in the first place--Cheers, and thank you all]. That said, I know and have experience (decades!) with all 'brands' you mention, and many more (UK, France, Germany, but I digress), and of all three, can't recommend Viberg enough.

Firstly, their lasts (particularly their service boots, but also their hikers, etc.) are incredibly spot-on and comfortable, fitting a wide range of feet (widths) due to their stitch down construction [UK sizing, as in, drop a half-size down from US or a whole size if want a "tight" fit or narrow (D or less, incl. women whose heels tend to be narrower than men's, on average, but pound for pound also tend to be longer than men's--think: sail boats (women) vs. barges (men), all good, but as a guide it just works: this, take a bit of break in of course (mention this if used to trainers/sneakers, but no biggie if used to hard wearing, real stitch down and/or Good Year Welt shoes and/or boots, of course; the latter being the so-called "gold standard" of footwear in that it conforms to your feet with wear and can be resoled, etc., but find that stitch-down, PNW specialties, are even better in that it does not only all that but offers more stability even, particularly important when used for purpose: i.e., in the bush actually working, backpacking ('back 40'), etc., and no doubt reason why you're looking into these makers as you are -- as in, nothing wrong (seriously?) with Tricker's, etc. (love their chukkas, etc., myself, great for the city with dainite soles), but when it comes to North America, 'nuff said. But Viberg also stands out for the shape of their lasts: in particular, their service boots (which every PNW maker these days is trying to get into, along with others, competition's good, but Viberg they are not), based on original WW2 Canadian military pattern, which you can dress up (smart casual) or down (field use, out and about town or country, etc.) and in just about any leather you can think of (deer, moose, horse, CXL, etc.), and truly versatile, unlike white's or wesco's [nothing wrong with them, don't get me wrong: have an "old school" engineer from Wesco, fashion boot these days (no CE, but still awesome for local/short rides), and a light hiker from White's along with an MP boot, their take on the service boot, waxed suede, based on the modified Barrie last (Alden), and great likewise for casual wear, but say again, Viberg's they are not: casual, great for hunting farmer fields (think: terrier earth work, etc.) or about town in blue jeans, etc. and that's fine--love 'em for that, and save my Vibergs which, again, don't get me wrong, are up to all the same tasks, but more: same time, when not "thinking" and just grab-and-go, they are my go-to boots, just that good. And Viberg is still North American owned and made (Canada) unlike White's, which while still North American made (USA), got bought out (along with Justin boots, Danner, etc.) by a foreign company (Japan). While the latter mentioned companies all still make great along with some not so great footwear, i.e., more and more of their models are no longer recraftable ("Fashion" forward? Cemented rubbish), lesser quality materials and QC issues, etc. and yet all the while prices rising, it’s a shame; still make some of the same tried and true models we all love, though, so that's good, and leave it at that, and for those models, highly recommend).

Speaking about Viberg (esteemed hand-made Canadian maker), feel the need to also mention Dayton Boots, another esteemed CDN maker in BC though they focused on GYW as opposed to stitchdown, solid, truly, have a few including a pair going on 25+ years and still going strong after a few resoles but understand they've gone through some serious growing pains trying to expand their traditional old-school boots into the international market (read: fashion conscious consumers, Germany & Japan, etc.), taking on more orders it seems than they could at the time, and, well, that doesn't work but seem to have recovered now, and that's good (same time, as many say: you get what you pay for, but as everyone conscience of what actually goes into making great footwear--hand-craft, leather selection and other materials, etc.--brand is supposed to mean something, and not just marketing; don't want to get into it, but Dayton missed the boat and really should have raised their prices to reflect their actual workmanship, leather quality, etc. (value never pays, but I digress); glad I got in when I did, and couldn't be happier. Would I buy from them now? Maybe, but only if custom. Do so hope they continue doing what they do best, and get back on track but, again, I digress).

That all said, all depends on what you want to do with your shoes/boots, and, of course, the shape of your own feet/available lasts. If you have really wide feet for e.g, as fantastic as Viberg's are, White's might do you better, even if not as nice (shape of the last is just that, Viberg's is bar none superb, quality leather, workmanship and stitching (a family owned company that's been around since forever by North American standards (since 1931, depression no less!), does all sorts of collaborations with top-tier shops and manages to get whatever leather they want, when they want--yes, that good, and if looking for a truly versatile boot, one that can handle just about everything including in town and dress up with anything but of course a formal/business suit, but if it doesn't work for your own particular feet, then, it doesn't, but if it does: fit is everything). In terms of Motorcycle riding boots, while the Viberg Engineer and Wesco Boss are great, when it comes to safety, I ride TCX and Stylmartin -- no, not as nice leather or hardware (albeit resolable), CE rated (safety) thus purpose built (modern safety standards), with "heritage" / retro looks). All depends on what you want, what you want to do with your shoes/boots, your own idea of aesthetics (looks are subjective), and your own feet of course: fit is everything, which bears repeating.

Hope this helps, and great forum. Safe Adventures, and Happy Trails.