Aero custom order help: First buy, CR

Wardo1974 · Nov 17, 2020

Hello gents,

After 11 months of lurking the classifieds, and two failed buys on used jackets, I'm saying uncle and ordering a new jacket from Aero.

I want a Cafe Racer in brown FQHH.

This is all I'm certain about. I'm looking for some help from those who went before me.

I'm 6'1", 215 with a muscular build.

I bought a brown CR in size 44 - I loved everything a about it except how it fit. It was really tight in the shoulders for me, and the arms felt too tight as well. This was a t-shirt fit only. It zipped up well enough, but it looked weird on me. So, back to the Loch with that one.

I saw a 48 and bought it. This one was too big by far in the gut/waist area. The sleeves were a good length and the diameter felt good too, and the shoulders were only slightly larger than I'd prefer. The P2P though was no good for me, around 26". Other than the P2P and the billowy gut dimension, it was decent up top, something I could put a sweater under. But still big.

So I'm thinking 46 is my size.

I was wondering about custom order advice. What should I specify? What colour of brass? How does Aero measure their sleeves, shoulders? I'm thinking I want something a bit wider up top than the standard, with larger than standard arms. By how much, any ideas?

I know that the sleeves should be lined with sateen so that it's easy to get on and off. Other than this, it's the only ordering trick I've read about.

Suggestions for achieving the ideal fit are appreciated. It's literally all that matters. I was enormously disappointed to buy a couple nice jackets this summer, and realize after about 20 seconds they weren't going to work out for me.

Psant25 · Nov 17, 2020

Well, im still looking for the perfect fit after a dozen or more custom jackets. I would work with aero or from sales page and listings here to figure out the pit measurement. Aero can adjust the shoulder a bit. Then pick your preferred sleeve (straight measure) and body length. the cafe racer tapers well enough so I would not personally mess with that. You can give aero you measurements and ask the questions you have. I like antique brass and i like the cotton in the sleeves on my aeros.

TooManyHatsOnlyOneHead · Nov 17, 2020

the cafe racer has a taper from chest to waist. the board racer is more straight line down, so kind of depends on your body type, but sounds like you're more cafe racer.

I'm 6'0 and 185 and was shocked to fit into a 40. Was snug at first but has loosened up. So you're probably a 44 if I had to guess, you might need a bigger 44 though with the shoulders, etc.

Are you based in the US? I would just reach out to Carrie at Thurston Bros. They'll figure it all out for you and go through the options and all that.

El Marro · Nov 17, 2020

This would be a good question for @ton312. He has a muscular physique like you and he has owned a bunch of Aero’s, including Cafe Racers.
One thing to consider might be asking Aero to make you a cloth fit jacket before they cut the real thing out of leather. This would give you a chance to really tweak and correct the pattern before it is too late.
If they are not willing to do that you might consider working with someone else such as Johnson Leather. They have brown CXL and they might be more open to changes and suggestions then the folks at Aero.

Jin431 · Nov 17, 2020

Man, that sucks as it's really hard to find the perfect fit. You can try to request a 46 chest/shoulder with taper to a 44 waist/bottom hem, ask Aero for measurements so it will give you the best guesstimate. Or if you are in the US get in touch with Thurston Bros so you can request a fit jacket.

I think brass or antique brass will work well with brown cxl. This is a dark shade of brown cxl with brass hardware made by Johnson Leather, the contrast will look like this

handymike · Nov 17, 2020

That’s a great looking jacket!

Wardo1974 · Nov 17, 2020

Jin, your jacket is a beauty. That's the colour I'm after in a CR. That's a great idea too about asking for the 44 taper to the waist with the 46 upper, I hadn't thought of that. I liked how the 44 jacket I got fit around the waist.

I'm in Canada, so I don't have the same options most here do. If I buy from Thurston I'd pay a fortune in duties and taxes importing it - there's the Canadian Aero retailer here in Vancouver (Bison) I'd be dealing with.

sweetfights · Nov 17, 2020

Wardo1974 said:
Jin, your jacket is a beauty. That's the colour I'm after in a CR. That's a great idea too about asking for the 44 taper to the waist with the 46 upper, I hadn't thought of that. I liked how the 44 jacket I got fit around the waist.

I'm in Canada, so I don't have the same options most here do. If I buy from Thurston I'd pay a fortune in duties and taxes importing it - there's the Canadian Aero retailer here in Vancouver (Bison) I'd be dealing with.

Deal with Aero direct. As a fellow Canadian that will be the best bang for the buck with currency exchange. Thurston Bros are awesome in every way but Aero direct will save cash.

Jin431 · Nov 17, 2020

handymike said:
That’s a great looking jacket!

Thanks man! I appreciate it!

Wardo1974 said:
Jin, your jacket is a beauty. That's the colour I'm after in a CR. That's a great idea too about asking for the 44 taper to the waist with the 46 upper, I hadn't thought of that. I liked how the 44 jacket I got fit around the waist.

I'm in Canada, so I don't have the same options most here do. If I buy from Thurston I'd pay a fortune in duties and taxes importing it - there's the Canadian Aero retailer here in Vancouver (Bison) I'd be dealing with.

Thank you. The brown cxl is a great choice, it comes in different shades/texture as all leather varies. You may want to indicate how you prefer the hide to be light/dark/grainy/smooth when you eventually order.

The only issue with ordering a tapered non stock jacket is it's non returnable. So you have to be 100% certain with all the measurements.

Measurements is kind of weird (as people measure differently and Aero has measurement tolerances) but I was told sleeves are measured from top of shoulder hem straight down to sleeves while the leather is being pulled taut. Shoulders are measured from top of the shoulder seam to the other end.

Hopefully someone your size can chime in as measurements are all relative because we all like are jackets to fit differently.

Wardo1974 · Nov 17, 2020

See, that's important about the sleeve. Some guys measure around the side to the cuff and whatnot.

I don't feel like I should be a weird fit. I'm not a giant. All my life though nothing fits off the rack. I recently went on a jean jacket binge; I began by getting a new Levi's trucker jacket, size XXL. The sleeves are so narrow I could split them if I flexed hard enough. Shoulders uncomfortably tight...and this is the biggest size they sell. I bought then a mid-80s jacket, size 48L, actually the 2nd biggest of the era. It fits awesome. Roomy arms, shoulders 2 inches wider and tapering to the waist. Dramatically different fit. I don't understand why they stopped making them like this. I feel like mailing it to Aero and saying, "make my CR shaped just like this."

ton312 · Nov 17, 2020

I echo @Jin431 sentiment on the waist taper /drop size. While the CR is a fairly broad upper body and sharp taper to begin with, if you find you need more that is the way to go. I didn’t feel the need to do this with my CR from a few years ago as it was fairly aggressive to begin with.

Wardo1974 · Nov 17, 2020

Thanks Ton, what is your physical size? What did you do to achieve the best fit?

Also, nice jacket, sell it to me. LOL

Jin431 · Nov 17, 2020

Wardo1974 said:
See, that's important about the sleeve. Some guys measure around the side to the cuff and whatnot.

I don't feel like I should be a weird fit. I'm not a giant. All my life though nothing fits off the rack. I recently went on a jean jacket binge; I began by getting a new Levi's trucker jacket, size XXL. The sleeves are so narrow I could split them if I flexed hard enough. Shoulders uncomfortably tight...and this is the biggest size they sell. I bought then a mid-80s jacket, size 48L, actually the 2nd biggest of the era. It fits awesome. Roomy arms, shoulders 2 inches wider and tapering to the waist. Dramatically different fit. I don't understand why they stopped making them like this. I feel like mailing it to Aero and saying, "make my CR shaped just like this."

Yeah that's why it's tricky sometimes.

Lol don't rip your jackets. I doubt Aero will do that but if you provide the jackets measurements and ask them what size the closest it will be then that might help. You may have to add Like 0.5" more as cxl is denser/stiffer than denim especially the chest/shoulders (I made that same mistake already basing measurements from a denim jacket lol)

ton312 said:
I echo @Jin431 sentiment on the waist taper /drop size. While the CR is a fairly broad upper body and sharp taper to begin with, if you find you need more that is the way to go. I didn’t feel the need to do this with my CR from a few years ago as it was fairly aggressive to begin with.
View attachment 281162

Man, that thing is nice. Is that nickel hardware on a brown cxl? Hard to tell from my tablet.

ton312 · Nov 17, 2020

Wardo1974 said:
Thanks Ton, what is your physical size? What did you do to achieve the best fit?

Also, nice jacket, sell it to me. LOL

Wish I could but it’s long gone! I’m 5’11 210lbs. This jacket was a 42” but fit like a trim 44”. 24” p2p 19.5” shoulder. 26”body length and 26.5” sleeve.

ton312 · Nov 17, 2020

Jin431 said:
Yeah that's why it's tricky sometimes.

Lol don't rip your jackets. I doubt Aero will do that but if you provide the jackets measurements and ask them what size the closest it will be then that might help. You may have to add Like 0.5" more as cxl is denser/stiffer than denim especially the chest/shoulders (I made that same mistake already basing measurements from a denim jacket lol)

Man, that thing is nice. Is that nickel hardware on a brown cxl? Hard to tell from my tablet.

Brass on black cow!

Wardo1974 · Nov 17, 2020

sweetfights said:
Deal with Aero direct. As a fellow Canadian that will be the best bang for the buck with currency exchange. Thurston Bros are awesome in every way but Aero direct will save cash.

Have you done this?

I just went to the Aero site. A CR is 695 pounds sterling, plus 40 for shipping.

I went to the CBSA site to estimate duty and taxes, and this is what came out:

$402.41 CDN

Charge Amount
Duty @ 18% $217.26
Tax @ 13% $185.15

This actually makes it about $150 MORE than the Canadian Aero distributor - what am I missing?

TooManyHatsOnlyOneHead · Nov 17, 2020

Ton confirmed what I had mentioned earlier. I think you're a 44. Keep in mind a racer is supposed to fit snug and the CXL will stretch about a half size, Not like uncomfortable, but it's not really supposed to be a layering jacket. The model you tried, did it have shoulder gussets? That also makes a huge difference on how it would feel comfort wise.

Do you have a favorite jacket that fits you well now? You could reference that for measurements. Just keep in mind if the jacket isn't leather to allow another 1/4 inch or so on the measurements for the leather thickness. And I'd recommend the gussets. I'm always hesitant because I don't like how biswing or action backs drape in the back, but the aero shoulder gussets are really tight around the shoulder cuff, so it doesn't get "poofy" and makes a huge difference in range.

Last thing is if you ride then, yeah, you may want to go bigger for comfort. But if it's pure fashion, then embrace the tightness LOL. You want to look good, a little constrictive is what kicks it up another level.

Wardo1974 · Nov 17, 2020

TooManyHatsOnlyOneHead said:
Ton confirmed what I had mentioned earlier. I think you're a 44. Keep in mind a racer is supposed to fit snug and the CXL will stretch about a half size, Not like uncomfortable, but it's not really supposed to be a layering jacket. The model you tried, did it have shoulder gussets? That also makes a huge difference on how it would feel comfort wise.

Do you have a favorite jacket that fits you well now? You could reference that for measurements. Just keep in mind if the jacket isn't leather to allow another 1/4 inch or so on the measurements for the leather thickness. And I'd recommend the gussets. I'm always hesitant because I don't like how biswing or action backs drape in the back, but the aero shoulder gussets are really tight around the shoulder cuff, so it doesn't get "poofy" and makes a huge difference in range.

Last thing is if you ride then, yeah, you may want to go bigger for comfort. But if it's pure fashion, then embrace the tightness LOL. You want to look good, a little constrictive is what kicks it up another level.

Well, here is the 44 I sold. You can see in the pic, it's tight through the shoulders and isn't even zipped. And even unzipped, it didn't drape on me well, as you can see. Looked good at the back though.

https://www.thefedoralounge.com/thr...-size-44-450-usd-shipped.101833/#post-2723424

TooManyHatsOnlyOneHead · Nov 17, 2020

a little tight no doubt, but I dont think you're that far off. Maybe another .25 on the ptp and shoulders. But it all depends on how you want to wear the jacket. I think going to 46 is going to be too big especially in the waist. You need to find a bigger sized 44.

breezer · Nov 17, 2020

go with another style of jacket - one more suited to your physique.........Jin's jacket above is one of the best I've seen on this site. The cafe racer is a very hard look to pull off......

Aero custom order help: First buy, CR

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