Five Star Leather Jackets

MrProper · Dec 2, 2020

ton312 said:
Oh man this is going to be REALLY cool.

I hope so.
i will probably follow the recommendations and use beige contrasting seams.
as zipper brass, because the nickel are only brass with a nickel finish. I.e. as the nickel disappears over time, brass appears. then I can start with antique brass right away.
#10 may be too rough. then I'll go to # 7 or #8.

TooManyHatsOnlyOneHead · Dec 2, 2020

MrProper said:
I hope so.
i will probably follow the recommendations and use beige contrasting seams.
as zipper brass, because the nickel are only brass with a nickel finish. I.e. as the nickel disappears over time, brass appears. then I can start with antique brass right away.
#10 may be too rough. then I'll go to # 7 or #8.

For softer leather, I agree 10 will be overkill.
Contrast stitching was my main issue with my jacket as the colors on the website are not accurate (best case, worst case they used the wrong thread for my build). Beige is going to be very contrasting. So just be careful for what you want. The olive green (what they call it) seems to be more Khaki. So there's a lot of contrast, much more than what I was expecting. Beige might be straight up almost white. Again, depends on what you want, but the thread issue was the main problem for me because it was not the color I was expecting at all.

Berto · Dec 2, 2020

TooManyHatsOnlyOneHead said:
For softer leather, I agree 10 will be overkill.
Contrast stitching was my main issue with my jacket as the colors on the website are not accurate (best case, worst case they used the wrong thread for my build). Beige is going to be very contrasting. So just be careful for what you want. The olive green (what they call it) seems to be more Khaki. So there's a lot of contrast, much more than what I was expecting. Beige might be straight up almost white. Again, depends on what you want, but the thread issue was the main problem for me because it was not the color I was expecting at all.

I think the lighter contrast will be a killing, really fantastic.
And 10mm fur thickness seems to be spot on and proper for this kind of jacket.
I'm excited on this MrProper's project.

MrProper · Dec 2, 2020

TooManyHatsOnlyOneHead said:
For softer leather, I agree 10 will be overkill.
Contrast stitching was my main issue with my jacket as the colors on the website are not accurate (best case, worst case they used the wrong thread for my build). Beige is going to be very contrasting. So just be careful for what you want. The olive green (what they call it) seems to be more Khaki. So there's a lot of contrast, much more than what I was expecting. Beige might be straight up almost white. Again, depends on what you want, but the thread issue was the main problem for me because it was not the color I was expecting at all.

yes, that could be. but i think i'm taking the risk. if necessary, I can make the beige a little darker myself if it is too light for me. Maybe I'll change my mind too. or I ask shawn to send me a photo of a sample.
I just take minor mistakes as unique items or characters. I'm pragmatic about that.
In the worst case, I have a financial loss, which is limited
and I have learned something.

Monitor · Dec 2, 2020

MrProper said:
My new project is taking shape.
I'll have a Cafe Racer made out of the reddish brown shearling.
As simple as my Aero Cafe Racer. Only two breast pockets on the front, a seam on the back that creates a kidney panel - no gussets.
A #8 or #10 ykk double slider as a zipper. I am undecided about the color of the zippers. Nickel, brass, gun metal or black.
Reinforcements over some seams in the same color as the leather.
I am equally undecided about contrast stitching in beige or no contrast and thread color reddish.
Any tips?

Back:
View attachment 285458
View attachment 285459 View attachment 285460

I wholeheartedly support this, except I'd skip on the kidney panel seam. Clean back on a shearling CR would be crazy nice though it perhaps isn't even possible as sheepskin panels are a lot smaller. Brass zippers.

MrProper · Dec 2, 2020

Monitor said:
I wholeheartedly support this, except I'd skip on the kidney panel seam. Clean back on a shearling CR would be crazy nice though it perhaps isn't even possible as sheepskin panels are a lot smaller. Brass zippers.

I also thought of a one piece back at first.
But then I had concerns, since I'm quite tall, that the resulting large area could be overwhelming without optical interruptions. the size of the panel could of course be another point.
Thanks for your ideas.

big right?

Monitor · Dec 2, 2020

MrProper said:
I also thought of a one piece back at first.
But then I had concerns, since I'm quite tall, that the resulting large area could be overwhelming without optical interruptions. the size of the panel could of course be another point.
Thanks for your ideas.

big right?
View attachment 285598

I'm just thinking, since mostly all shearling/sheepskin jackets have tons of seams all over 'cause of the small panels, I'd go for a full custom jacket without a single seam that's not absolutely needed as it'd be something else then and I think the difference would be noticeable.

I mean, even the $3000 RMC B-3's have seams connecting the panels. It's just the type of leather that we're so used to seeing "taped" all over. Dunno, just my thoughts.

CRP · Dec 2, 2020

MrProper said:
I hope so.
i will probably follow the recommendations and use beige contrasting seams.
as zipper brass, because the nickel are only brass with a nickel finish. I.e. as the nickel disappears over time, brass appears. then I can start with antique brass right away.
#10 may be too rough. then I'll go to # 7 or #8.

You and ton312 are like the 5* whisperers, so I'm sure this jacket will become the new Cafe Racer standard. I'm a fan of #10 zipper myself, but I also lean towards overbuilt for everything. Can't wait to see the results!

Claybertrand · Dec 2, 2020

Hh121 said:
Looking great and thanks much for providing the pattern, the Horween natural 4-5 oz will be on the way to 5star this week.
View attachment 285304

KILLER!!! Very interested to see how it goes with providing your own hide. VERY INTERESTED INDEED

Cornelius · Dec 3, 2020

TooManyHatsOnlyOneHead said:
For softer leather, I agree 10 will be overkill.
Contrast stitching was my main issue with my jacket as the colors on the website are not accurate (best case, worst case they used the wrong thread for my build). Beige is going to be very contrasting. So just be careful for what you want. The olive green (what they call it) seems to be more Khaki. So there's a lot of contrast, much more than what I was expecting. Beige might be straight up almost white. Again, depends on what you want, but the thread issue was the main problem for me because it was not the color I was expecting at all.

Re: the thread color scenario, in these leather swatch packets 5* has been sending out for $20 or whatever, is it possible to ask for Thread Colors A,B,C to be run across a certain swatch, to see in person?

On another tack, does 5* at present offer shearling thicker than 10mm? Just wondering as I would ideally prefer something a bit warmer in my climate.

MinhNhat · Dec 3, 2020

Hello Everyone. I'm a new person.

I used to order a custom jacket from 5 star.
This jacket is of very good quality (Goat 1.2mm, dark seal brown)
I really like this jacket. But this jacket smells really bad. Not the smell of the leather. it's a chemical smell. I have been wearing the jacket for over a month. But the smell is still abundant.
Do not have much knowledge about leather. I just like the dark seal brown color. So I chose that color. But I don't know when I wear it for a while. The jacket will show yellow inside. If I choose goatskin black 1.2mm. Then this situation can not happen?
Another thing is that this jacket is stretchy. Like shoulder, or length has changed. If I choose other skin types (caftskin, steerhide). Would the jacket be stretchy?

Thank you for reading. And hope to receive answers from everyone

Lord Flashheart · Dec 3, 2020

I gave mine a rubdown with some leather conditioner Minh, there’s was a fairly significant amount of residue which came off. I also hung it outside for a while. The smell does fade and I now have a2 that smells of goat hide.

ton312 · Dec 3, 2020

My black goat has a chemical scent but neither the seal brown or red russet had any scent...after 24hrs the smell on the black is all but gone...

MrProper · Dec 3, 2020

I think that's the stupid plastic packaging with the little balls that are supposed to keep the package dry. Every day the jacket is wrapped in it increases the smell. That's my theory.

MinhNhat · Dec 3, 2020

I tried sun drying and using skin lotion on my jacket. The smell didn't go away, it just got lighter. And let me ask with black goat skin. When wearing for a while. Is the yellow inside exposed?
I don't like this fade at all. I just want a jacket with only one color tone.

MrProper · Dec 3, 2020

MinhNhat said:
I tried sun drying and using skin lotion on my jacket. The smell didn't go away, it just got lighter. And let me ask with black goat skin. When wearing for a while. Is the yellow inside exposed?
I don't like this fade at all. I just want a jacket with only one color tone.

same with seal brown and russet.
But I like it

Carlos840 · Dec 3, 2020

MinhNhat said:
I tried sun drying and using skin lotion on my jacket. The smell didn't go away, it just got lighter. And let me ask with black goat skin. When wearing for a while. Is the yellow inside exposed?
I don't like this fade at all. I just want a jacket with only one color tone.

That will happen on most leathers, it is normal and there is really nothing you can do about it.

MinhNhat · Dec 3, 2020

Thank everyone for answering questions. About the stretchy of this jacket, anyone has this problem?

MrProper · Dec 3, 2020

MinhNhat said:
Thank everyone for answering questions. About the stretchy of this jacket, anyone has this problem?

I think there is nothing stretched, just poorly measured from 5 *. Look at the folds in the photo.
I haven't noticed any stretching on mine yet.

Marc mndt · Dec 3, 2020

Carlos840 said:
That will happen on most leathers, it is normal and there is really nothing you can do about it.

Unless you go full aniline, where the core is the same color as the outer layer.

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