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DBA MD DLFAPA1948

New in Town
Messages
49
When did the “pinch” you see on fedoras like Indiana Jones’s, Dick Tracy’s and Eliot Ness’s become fashionable? A look at American Western hats shows the two side pinches at the front of the hat were extremely uncommon in the decades post Civil War.

I ask, because I’m putting together a Western costume. I’ve already decided on the Akubra Snowy River for my hat because it suits my personal style, but I wonder if the pinch would be anachronistic for the 1870’s.
 
Messages
10,343
Location
vancouver, canada
Domestic shipping is reasonable through USPS if you keep the box no larger that 36 inches combined (length + width + height). International shipping requires the girth (measured around the thickest part of the package) to be no more than 108 inches. Weight also plays into the fee schedule. It’s odd that I can get a hat shipped from Australia to California for 1/3 the price of shipping the same hat from California to New York.

Gannon uses UPS and I’m not familiar with their pricing.
UPS is a bitch to ship into Canada. you ALWAYS have to pay; handling, brokerage, and taxes so on a $400 hat the extra could be about $70 extra dollars. If you use postal service it invariably comes straight to your door...once in a while they will pull it and charge taxes. BEWARE using courier for cross border items ImhExperience.
 
Messages
10,343
Location
vancouver, canada
Hi all! New member and hat owner here. I have a question I would appreciate any help with!

I recently bought a Biltmore President rabbit fur fedora. A couple days ago I moved the pinch up. I didn't realize that I needed to steam it before adjusting the shape, so last night I sprayed some cold water on it. This morning, the felt is noticeably stiff where I sprayed it. Is this normal? Is there a way to soften the fur felt again? Thanks in advance!
Biltmore hats are not great felts. Try steam....with felt, steam is your friend and it makes the felt malleable and may soften it some. Try it and see.
 

Mark Brody

New in Town
Messages
42
Location
Omaha, NE
That Snowy River is already going to be anachronistic, so if you're not worried about that, I don't know why the pinch would be a dealbreaker.

"The Man from Snowy River" is set in the 1880's (but in Australia). I'm not sure how accurate the costuming is, or how much those styles can be applied to the United States at the same time period. I'm not super particular about the 1870's specifically, so a decade difference doesn't bother me. I guess in looking for a Western hat that wasn't a typical Stetson cowboy hat, the Snowy River caught my eye. It doesn't look too dissimilar from military hats of the time.

1cQrMM.png


What is your character’s occupation?

Nothing too specific. I'm somewhat inspired by Cullen Bohannon's wardrobe from "Hell on Wheels." but I'm not trying to replicate it by any means. About the only thing I really wanted to take from that was a leather vest, but even at that, I opted for brown instead of black, and bought a vest with a different cut.
 

DBA MD DLFAPA1948

New in Town
Messages
49
The snowy river with its modest crown is a bit reminiscent of simple plainsman style hats but it has a significant curl to the brim that a wrangler might wear. It is a nice style that has a timeless quality although it is from a later western era. More of a hybrid. It will probably serve you well unless you are among relentless critics who are extremely period conscious. Best of luck and have fun. Saddle up!
 

jlee562

I'll Lock Up
Messages
5,047
Location
San Francisco, CA
"The Man from Snowy River" is set in the 1880's (but in Australia). I'm not sure how accurate the costuming is, or how much those styles can be applied to the United States at the same time period. I'm not super particular about the 1870's specifically, so a decade difference doesn't bother me. I guess in looking for a Western hat that wasn't a typical Stetson cowboy hat, the Snowy River caught my eye. It doesn't look too dissimilar from military hats of the time.

1cQrMM.png

Those strike me as two very different hats with little to no similarity TBH. The brim profile of the Snowy River is very modern looking with the brim turned down in front and up on the sides. The Stockman hats in the catalog above aren't quite so dramatic in shape, or have a curled edge.

The Plainview hat does have a front pinch, but not a fedora like crease.
PV4.jpg
 

Mark Brody

New in Town
Messages
42
Location
Omaha, NE
Those strike me as two very different hats with little to no similarity TBH. The brim profile of the Snowy River is very modern looking with the brim turned down in front and up on the sides. The Stockman hats in the catalog above aren't quite so dramatic in shape, or have a curled edge.

You know, you’re absolutely right. I copied just the one picture from an older thread here, but the other pictures I didn’t copy look much more like the Snowy River. I should have shared them instead.
https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/movie-hats.36280/page-68
 

srcphoto

New in Town
Messages
47
Location
Montreal
Curious question to any you hat head out there:
I was watching a video online, where by a fellow recored the making of a hat by Art Fawcett.
In there was a snippet by which Art, while hand pouncing the finish of the felt, said he will repeated apply coconut oil to the felt. Is this something one can do to improve the lustre and health of a finished fur felt hat?

It makes sense to me if this is a thing, as its hair, and would make for a good conditioner, but I have not yet tried it yet. Have any you out there heard or done such a thing? I imagine at the worst, it makes the hat smell nice for a while, though I doubt any would just take a fat dollops of the stuff and butter up the hat.
 

DBA MD DLFAPA1948

New in Town
Messages
49
When did the “pinch” you see on fedoras like Indiana Jones’s, Dick Tracy’s and Eliot Ness’s become fashionable? A look at American Western hats shows the two side pinches at the front of the hat were extremely uncommon in the decades post Civil War.

I ask, because I’m putting together a Western costume. I’ve already decided on the Akubra Snowy River for my hat because it suits my personal style, but I wonder if the pinch would be anachronistic for the 1870’s.
Noodled on this a bit. Back then if someone hunted with a rifle on the dry plains the brim was kind of flat with an off center turn up to allow for sighting. The crown could very depending on ones geography or profession. I’m partial to the old west history and a lot of it was passed down to me by those who were closer to that era. There was some shapes that developed just out of necessity rather than fashion and some looked unusual. Hope that helps. Lately I’ve been studying plainsmen and mountain men who forged trails while trapping.
 
Messages
18,915
Location
Central California
Curious question to any you hat head out there:
I was watching a video online, where by a fellow recored the making of a hat by Art Fawcett.
In there was a snippet by which Art, while hand pouncing the finish of the felt, said he will repeated apply coconut oil to the felt. Is this something one can do to improve the lustre and health of a finished fur felt hat?

It makes sense to me if this is a thing, as its hair, and would make for a good conditioner, but I have not yet tried it yet. Have any you out there heard or done such a thing? I imagine at the worst, it makes the hat smell nice for a while, though I doubt any would just take a fat dollops of the stuff and butter up the hat.


It’s called luring. You can do it to a finished hat, but you would need to remove the ribbon. It might be difficult to apply the oil evenly and avoid darker spots on the felt.

As 80+ year old felt can be wonderful without any such applications, I don’t think it’s usually needed or necessarily even beneficial for all hats. I do like my custom hats to be lured.
 
Messages
10,343
Location
vancouver, canada
Curious question to any you hat head out there:
I was watching a video online, where by a fellow recored the making of a hat by Art Fawcett.
In there was a snippet by which Art, while hand pouncing the finish of the felt, said he will repeated apply coconut oil to the felt. Is this something one can do to improve the lustre and health of a finished fur felt hat?

It makes sense to me if this is a thing, as its hair, and would make for a good conditioner, but I have not yet tried it yet. Have any you out there heard or done such a thing? I imagine at the worst, it makes the hat smell nice for a while, though I doubt any would just take a fat dollops of the stuff and butter up the hat.
It is easier to do on dark coloured felt. You have to be cautious on light colours as it can streak/stain if you apply too much in one spot. It does impart a lustre particularly on old sun dried felts. The coconut odour dissappates quickly. I finish each new hat with this process as well
 

srcphoto

New in Town
Messages
47
Location
Montreal
Hi all! New member and hat owner here. I have a question I would appreciate any help with!

I recently bought a Biltmore President rabbit fur fedora. A couple days ago I moved the pinch up. I didn't realize that I needed to steam it before adjusting the shape, so last night I sprayed some cold water on it. This morning, the felt is noticeably stiff where I sprayed it. Is this normal? Is there a way to soften the fur felt again? Thanks in advance!



The water kind of resets the felt after it dries. If the new pinch is what you want, just wear the hat and treat it the same as before, the felt will soften with use. or you could do this...

(skip ahead to 3:17 to see how this dude softens his hat)
 

srcphoto

New in Town
Messages
47
Location
Montreal
UPS is a bitch to ship into Canada. you ALWAYS have to pay; handling, brokerage, and taxes so on a $400 hat the extra could be about $70 extra dollars. If you use postal service it invariably comes straight to your door...once in a while they will pull it and charge taxes. BEWARE using courier for cross border items ImhExperience.

If using courier like UPS, you could always inform them of "self-clearing" thru customs in order to save on brokerage. You have to go to local govt office that acts as port of entry and pay the taxes (make sure to have documents to show accurate price paid, not assessed value (unless assessed value is significantly less, though unlikely)
fire off a photo email for proof to the courier, and they release the parcel to you.
 

DBA MD DLFAPA1948

New in Town
Messages
49
The water kind of resets the felt after it dries. If the new pinch is what you want, just wear the hat and treat it the same as before, the felt will soften with use. or you could do this...

(skip ahead to 3:17 to see how this dude softens his hat)
Thanks for posting the video. I might try some steam to resolve the few crinkles around the bubble of my teardrop telescope on my Bushman.
 
Messages
10,343
Location
vancouver, canada
If using courier like UPS, you could always inform them of "self-clearing" thru customs in order to save on brokerage. You have to go to local govt office that acts as port of entry and pay the taxes (make sure to have documents to show accurate price paid, not assessed value (unless assessed value is significantly less, though unlikely)
fire off a photo email for proof to the courier, and they release the parcel to you.
In my case that would take up to two hours so I only order things where the shipper insists on courier only if I have to. The postal service is so much better and cheaper. I have sold and purchased hundreds of items on Ebay/on line and NEVER had a problem with the postal service, USPS or Canada Post. Couriers on the other hand have 'lost' numerous parcels over the years. Plus my postie is great and really cute.
 

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