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Field Leathers

Messages
16,404
I am utterly impressed with everything I see from Greg, every time someone posts a new photo of anything at all. He just knows what makes a good looking leather jacket and IMO better than mostly everyone on the market right now. I'd say he gets it and that's a rare thing. Just compare this to those Gustins, for example, a few years back... Polar opposites. Curved sleeves, body shape... Just perfect. Would love to get a FL jacket but then again, do I really need it and what will it ultimately change for me. Nothing. Sometimes it's best to just look and admire.
 

58panheadfan

One Too Many
Messages
1,528
Location
Switzerland
Maybe I am alone with my opinion (or not). What has kept me from a FL jacket so far are on the one hand the fit pictures on his homepage and what I have seen in this forum so far. Most of the fit pictures are somehow inconsistent (not bad, better but not really good either). This "sleeve issue", (I cannot say whether it is actually a problem or whether it simply belongs to the cut of this jacket because I am not a fan of cr jackets) has also kept me from buying/wearing a FL jacket so far. I assume that FL will continue to develop in this regard. Therefore I would like to thank all previous FL buyers who are driving this evo process. Of course the craft & the material vs. the price is excellent.

I'm curious to see how fl will develop further, not only in terms of pattern/new cuts & models but also in terms of waiting time and price.
 
Last edited:

dudewuttheheck

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,260
My custom experiences in general have been quite mixed. Fortunately, I am going with a fit jacket from Greg so that should help. I'm not even necessarily expecting it to fit perfectly, but he is making me something bespoke that I cannot get anywhere else. That coupled with the fact that I finally know how I like my jackets to fit means that this jacket will actually be short enough to fit in with my wardrobe. Given that opportunity, I will actually be OK with a "good enough" fit.
 

Marc mndt

I'll Lock Up
Messages
6,798
Maybe I am alone with my opinion (nor not). What has kept me from a FL jacket so far are on the one hand the fit pictures on his homepage and what I have seen in this forum so far. Most of the fit pictures are somehow inconsistent (not bad, better but not really good either). This "sleeve issue", (I cannot say whether it is actually a problem or whether it simply belongs to the cut of this jacket because I am not a fan of cr jackets) has also kept me from buying/wearing a FL jacket so far. I assume that FL will continue to develop in this regard. Therefore I would like to thank all previous FL buyers who are driving this evo process. Of course the craft & the material vs. the price is excellent.

I'm curious to see how fl will develop further, not only in terms of pattern/new cuts & models but also in terms of waiting time and price.
You're not alone. My biggest issue with the pattern was bulging on the front shoulder with the diagonal line from neck to pit. I used the fit jacket to address the issue and he adjusted the pattern accordingly. It came out perfectly.

But just like @MrProper I feel there's tension on the chest and I'm pretty sure it's not due to pit to pit being too small. I suspect it might be the shoulder circumference.

My elmc californian has almost exactly the same ptp as my FL, yet it feels more relaxed in the chest. Therefore I measured both jackets at the narrowest point between the armholes.
B20D7C70-F7C2-4212-8AFE-E186B6AEF872.jpeg

At the front the FL measures 15.25. The elmc measures 17.

At first glance the difference looks dramatic but it is partially offset by the sleeve width (the FL being slightly wider)

9F22AA01-C4C8-4491-8C47-4801FE831AD3.jpeg

The FL measures 25.75. The elmc 26.75

I'm pretty sure my measurements aren't totally accurate, but I do think a bit more shoulder circumference will make a lot of difference.

I'm not sure how this is best addressed but I think adding an inch to the front panels will be the easiest way. (You'd only have to adjust the collar)
9BED7DDA-7C34-4EC7-A97A-907E16C74179.jpeg


Maybe I'm totally wrong but I'm going to discuss this with Greg. I've put in my second order the day before yesterday. Same jacket but in brown with a few tweaks here and there. Let's see if we can make the modified Idaho 2.0 even better:)
 

dudewuttheheck

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,260

Marc mndt

I'll Lock Up
Messages
6,798
It is mine. Greg just confirmed. I will definitely be consulting you on my order.
I'm more than happy to help if I can but I'm no expert of course. Greg is :)

What you just posted about the way the jacket fits does have me slightly concerned, but hopefully I will be able to do something about it with your insight.
I'm not sure my jacket is a great benchmark. I have a 43' chest yet I ordered a size 42 with a smaller ptp (22') than his basic 42 pattern (22.5'). I don't think anyone here on tfl would order a jacket that tight. The tighter the jacket, the less forgiving the pattern will be.

Can't wait to see your design. It looks very intricate and I'm sure it will be a great showcase of Greg's excellent craftsmanship.

I might come across like I'm complaining about the fit of my Idaho, but I'm not. It's my absolute favorite jacket and I think overall it's also my best fitting jacket. I love it. There's a reason why I ordered another one :)
 

MrProper

My Mail is Forwarded Here
Messages
3,841
Location
Europe
You're not alone. My biggest issue with the pattern was bulging on the front shoulder with the diagonal line from neck to pit. I used the fit jacket to address the issue and he adjusted the pattern accordingly. It came out perfectly.

But just like @MrProper I feel there's tension on the chest and I'm pretty sure it's not due to pit to pit being too small. I suspect it might be the shoulder circumference.

My elmc californian has almost exactly the same ptp as my FL, yet it feels more relaxed in the chest. Therefore I measured both jackets at the narrowest point between the armholes.
View attachment 305495
At the front the FL measures 15.25. The elmc measures 17.

At first glance the difference looks dramatic but it is partially offset by the sleeve width (the FL being slightly wider)

View attachment 305496
The FL measures 25.75. The elmc 26.75

I'm pretty sure my measurements aren't totally accurate, but I do think a bit more shoulder circumference will make a lot of difference.

I'm not sure how this is best addressed but I think adding an inch to the front panels will be the easiest way. (You'd only have to adjust the collar)
View attachment 305497

Maybe I'm totally wrong but I'm going to discuss this with Greg. I've put in my second order the day before yesterday. Same jacket but in brown with a few tweaks here and there. Let's see if we can make the modified Idaho 2.0 even better:)

I have now looked at my FL again and compared to my ridley. The FL jacket already has the tension over the chest when lying loose. 4 cm difference with the same shoulder width.
My guess is that when they scale it up to my size this measurement was not taken into account.
This tension in unworn state I haven't noticed yet. I think the very first jacket from FL went a little wrong ;)

7A669BA3-9293-4FA3-8093-044171E81943.jpeg
21E233E3-5D61-42CA-8191-F2F72105ADB9.jpeg
9D7D10E3-458B-41E5-B11A-F10F601E75C4.jpeg
5241BF0C-1794-4DBA-AE74-704DE4336016.jpeg
 

dudewuttheheck

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,260
I'm more than happy to help if I can but I'm no expert of course. Greg is :)


I'm not sure my jacket is a great benchmark. I have a 43' chest yet I ordered a size 42 with a smaller ptp (22') than his basic 42 pattern (22.5'). I don't think anyone here on tfl would order a jacket that tight. The tighter the jacket, the less forgiving the pattern will be.

Can't wait to see your design. It looks very intricate and I'm sure it will be a great showcase of Greg's excellent craftsmanship.

I might come across like I'm complaining about the fit of my Idaho, but I'm not. It's my absolute favorite jacket and I think overall it's also my best fitting jacket. I love it. There's a reason why I ordered another one :)
I actually like my jackets to fit on the trim side as well. I have a 42" chest and I'm asking for the fit jacket to have a ptp of 21.5" so maybe your jacket would be a decent benchmark after all :p
 

Berto

One of the Regulars
Messages
261
You're not alone. My biggest issue with the pattern was bulging on the front shoulder with the diagonal line from neck to pit. I used the fit jacket to address the issue and he adjusted the pattern accordingly. It came out perfectly.

But just like @MrProper I feel there's tension on the chest and I'm pretty sure it's not due to pit to pit being too small. I suspect it might be the shoulder circumference.

My elmc californian has almost exactly the same ptp as my FL, yet it feels more relaxed in the chest. Therefore I measured both jackets at the narrowest point between the armholes.
View attachment 305495
At the front the FL measures 15.25. The elmc measures 17.

At first glance the difference looks dramatic but it is partially offset by the sleeve width (the FL being slightly wider)

View attachment 305496
The FL measures 25.75. The elmc 26.75

I'm pretty sure my measurements aren't totally accurate, but I do think a bit more shoulder circumference will make a lot of difference.

I'm not sure how this is best addressed but I think adding an inch to the front panels will be the easiest way. (You'd only have to adjust the collar)
View attachment 305497

Maybe I'm totally wrong but I'm going to discuss this with Greg. I've put in my second order the day before yesterday. Same jacket but in brown with a few tweaks here and there. Let's see if we can make the modified Idaho 2.0 even better:)
Congrats for your second order.

I'm looking forward to see those tweaks.

2'5 weeks and I'll receive my mock-up
 

TooManyHatsOnlyOneHead

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,273
Alright, here she is. Route 66. Teacore. Copper lining (rust, gold, reddish brown, hard to capture the color, but it's definitely not "gold" and not so orange as shown in the pics). Brass hardware. No hand warmer pockets. Moved the wrist zips to the underside.

Overall the fit is pretty much there. The discussion about the neck lines continues though. We did go pretty tight on the shoulders, so don't know if a .25 or .5 would have made a difference alleviating some of the tension. Obviously in the below pics it's exaggerated because I'm lifting my arms holding the camera, but there is no doubt a crease line that runs from the neck down towards the arm pit area.

Probably could come in a .25 in a few spots on chest and torso to get a true second skin but I was looking for some breathing room on this one. Only been worn maybe 15 hours, so I'm guessing it'll settle some. But you can see the slight taper out from the waist which is what I was going for. And I forgot to take a pic with it unzipped, but the shape holds even unzipped. There's a lot of tension under the arms leading to say lower lat area. I think this is Greg's design and creates that pulling effect that keeps things looking sheik. It sort of feels and looks like the seam of the front and back connects more towards the back instead of the traditional dead center on the sides. It's not directly under the arm pit seam but more behind it. I think this pull tension creates a very sleek look and almost "hugging" effect. I like it, but for the OCD people, yeah, you're going to have those crease lines. I do think they'll soften some though and like I said, below pics are extreme since I'm holding my arm straight out and up.

The leather is beautifully grained, rigid, and much lighter than I expected. Was a good surprise because I can wear longer in the Los Angeles climate. But had I known, I may have quilted the lining or just gone for the more traditional red/black checker tweed. There's a few tiny dots of brown in some of the corners of the pockets and that's a glimpse of what's to come.

I'm totally happy and was a pleasure working with Greg. Might be a while before I order something else since I've lost my job recently, but no doubt I'd turn to him first if I had any sort of project in mind.

Few nit picky things I'd change if I had to do over again. I think the neck circumference is just a tad big for me. I probably would leave the wrist zippers on the front for a more showy pop. Main zipper for sure needs another 2 sizes bigger. Something I forgot to ask about. It'll do given the leather is lighter, but I do find myself having to slow down to make sure I don't break the thing (almost did the first time I was so excited to put it on). Since I took off the hand warmers, I should have added an inside pocket. Slightly thicker pull tabs.

4ga8OO2.jpg
yvWFH33.jpg
mkyEoiF.jpg
st8jpdr.jpg
kVaXSOz.jpg
havMQNB.jpg
ZPQGq76.jpg
lDFeCZ9.jpg
 

jeo

One Too Many
Messages
1,798
Location
Philadelphia
You're not alone. My biggest issue with the pattern was bulging on the front shoulder with the diagonal line from neck to pit. I used the fit jacket to address the issue and he adjusted the pattern accordingly. It came out perfectly.

But just like @MrProper I feel there's tension on the chest and I'm pretty sure it's not due to pit to pit being too small. I suspect it might be the shoulder circumference.

My elmc californian has almost exactly the same ptp as my FL, yet it feels more relaxed in the chest. Therefore I measured both jackets at the narrowest point between the armholes.
View attachment 305495
At the front the FL measures 15.25. The elmc measures 17.

At first glance the difference looks dramatic but it is partially offset by the sleeve width (the FL being slightly wider)

View attachment 305496
The FL measures 25.75. The elmc 26.75

I'm pretty sure my measurements aren't totally accurate, but I do think a bit more shoulder circumference will make a lot of difference.

I'm not sure how this is best addressed but I think adding an inch to the front panels will be the easiest way. (You'd only have to adjust the collar)
View attachment 305497

Maybe I'm totally wrong but I'm going to discuss this with Greg. I've put in my second order the day before yesterday. Same jacket but in brown with a few tweaks here and there. Let's see if we can make the modified Idaho 2.0 even better:)

I could be totally wrong but it seems to me it's the way the armholes are cut and how it's taking away material where the chest is. If the armholes are cut on less of an aggressive curve that seems like it could lend itself to more material where the chest is, but I have no idea how that may effect everything else. Maybe bring it up with Greg and ask him. Hope you and @MrProper don't mind me using your pics.


9BED7DDA-7C34-4EC7-A97A-907E16C74179.jpeg
9D7D10E3-458B-41E5-B11A-F10F601E75C4.jpeg
 

MrProper

My Mail is Forwarded Here
Messages
3,841
Location
Europe
I could be totally wrong but it seems to me it's the way the armholes are cut and how it's taking away material where the chest is. If the armholes are cut on less of an aggressive curve that seems like it could lend itself to more material where the chest is, but I have no idea how that may effect everything else. Maybe bring it up with Greg and ask him. Hope you and @MrProper don't mind me using your pics.


View attachment 305755 View attachment 305756
in my case it would be enough to change the rotation of the sleeve. According to Greg, this is no longer possible afterwards.
 

Tom71

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,397
Location
Europe
Alright, here she is. Route 66. Teacore. Copper lining (rust, gold, reddish brown, hard to capture the color, but it's definitely not "gold" and not so orange as shown in the pics). Brass hardware. No hand warmer pockets. Moved the wrist zips to the underside.

Overall the fit is pretty much there. The discussion about the neck lines continues though. We did go pretty tight on the shoulders, so don't know if a .25 or .5 would have made a difference alleviating some of the tension. Obviously in the below pics it's exaggerated because I'm lifting my arms holding the camera, but there is no doubt a crease line that runs from the neck down towards the arm pit area.

Probably could come in a .25 in a few spots on chest and torso to get a true second skin but I was looking for some breathing room on this one. Only been worn maybe 15 hours, so I'm guessing it'll settle some. But you can see the slight taper out from the waist which is what I was going for. And I forgot to take a pic with it unzipped, but the shape holds even unzipped. There's a lot of tension under the arms leading to say lower lat area. I think this is Greg's design and creates that pulling effect that keeps things looking sheik. It sort of feels and looks like the seam of the front and back connects more towards the back instead of the traditional dead center on the sides. It's not directly under the arm pit seam but more behind it. I think this pull tension creates a very sleek look and almost "hugging" effect. I like it, but for the OCD people, yeah, you're going to have those crease lines. I do think they'll soften some though and like I said, below pics are extreme since I'm holding my arm straight out and up.

The leather is beautifully grained, rigid, and much lighter than I expected. Was a good surprise because I can wear longer in the Los Angeles climate. But had I known, I may have quilted the lining or just gone for the more traditional red/black checker tweed. There's a few tiny dots of brown in some of the corners of the pockets and that's a glimpse of what's to come.

I'm totally happy and was a pleasure working with Greg. Might be a while before I order something else since I've lost my job recently, but no doubt I'd turn to him first if I had any sort of project in mind.

Few nit picky things I'd change if I had to do over again. I think the neck circumference is just a tad big for me. I probably would leave the wrist zippers on the front for a more showy pop. Main zipper for sure needs another 2 sizes bigger. Something I forgot to ask about. It'll do given the leather is lighter, but I do find myself having to slow down to make sure I don't break the thing (almost did the first time I was so excited to put it on). Since I took off the hand warmers, I should have added an inside pocket. Slightly thicker pull tabs.

4ga8OO2.jpg
yvWFH33.jpg
mkyEoiF.jpg
st8jpdr.jpg
kVaXSOz.jpg
havMQNB.jpg
ZPQGq76.jpg
lDFeCZ9.jpg


Congratulations! Fits you absolutely perfect. I’d say, your aggressive sizing absolutely pays off.

Can’t help doing a little comparison with mine. Greg must have done both almost (or indeed) back-to-back. I love your leather! My Michigan had similar pronounced graining, and this is quite the looker. However, I am totally in love with my hide too, so that’s a draw.

Location of the sleeve zippers is purely personal choice if your not actually riding. I place mine on the outside whenever that is an option to make sure everybody notices.
With the main zipper I am glad that I went with the No. 8 and that is both for functionality and for the butch look. I have the No. 5 on my Michigan, and it works perfectly fine. I’ve seen and busted much worse, and I absolutely agree that with a mid weight hide, this should never be an issue.

I absolutely love the copper color of your hardware. Adds to the overall vintage vibe of the jacket.

Now wear and enjoy! Haven’t taken mine off much since Tuesday and that is despite the weather.
 

Marc mndt

I'll Lock Up
Messages
6,798
Alright, here she is. Route 66. Teacore. Copper lining (rust, gold, reddish brown, hard to capture the color, but it's definitely not "gold" and not so orange as shown in the pics). Brass hardware. No hand warmer pockets. Moved the wrist zips to the underside.

Overall the fit is pretty much there. The discussion about the neck lines continues though. We did go pretty tight on the shoulders, so don't know if a .25 or .5 would have made a difference alleviating some of the tension. Obviously in the below pics it's exaggerated because I'm lifting my arms holding the camera, but there is no doubt a crease line that runs from the neck down towards the arm pit area.

Probably could come in a .25 in a few spots on chest and torso to get a true second skin but I was looking for some breathing room on this one. Only been worn maybe 15 hours, so I'm guessing it'll settle some. But you can see the slight taper out from the waist which is what I was going for. And I forgot to take a pic with it unzipped, but the shape holds even unzipped. There's a lot of tension under the arms leading to say lower lat area. I think this is Greg's design and creates that pulling effect that keeps things looking sheik. It sort of feels and looks like the seam of the front and back connects more towards the back instead of the traditional dead center on the sides. It's not directly under the arm pit seam but more behind it. I think this pull tension creates a very sleek look and almost "hugging" effect. I like it, but for the OCD people, yeah, you're going to have those crease lines. I do think they'll soften some though and like I said, below pics are extreme since I'm holding my arm straight out and up.

The leather is beautifully grained, rigid, and much lighter than I expected. Was a good surprise because I can wear longer in the Los Angeles climate. But had I known, I may have quilted the lining or just gone for the more traditional red/black checker tweed. There's a few tiny dots of brown in some of the corners of the pockets and that's a glimpse of what's to come.

I'm totally happy and was a pleasure working with Greg. Might be a while before I order something else since I've lost my job recently, but no doubt I'd turn to him first if I had any sort of project in mind.

Few nit picky things I'd change if I had to do over again. I think the neck circumference is just a tad big for me. I probably would leave the wrist zippers on the front for a more showy pop. Main zipper for sure needs another 2 sizes bigger. Something I forgot to ask about. It'll do given the leather is lighter, but I do find myself having to slow down to make sure I don't break the thing (almost did the first time I was so excited to put it on). Since I took off the hand warmers, I should have added an inside pocket. Slightly thicker pull tabs.

4ga8OO2.jpg
yvWFH33.jpg
mkyEoiF.jpg
st8jpdr.jpg
kVaXSOz.jpg
havMQNB.jpg
ZPQGq76.jpg
lDFeCZ9.jpg
First of all, congrats on the new jacket and I'm sorry you've lost your job. I have a few friends who work in the tourist / event sector and they've obviously been hit hard by the Covid situation. That sucks. I don't know whether your job loss is Covid related but I sincerely hope that you'll find a new job soon and I hope for all of us that Covid will be a thing of the past pretty soon.

Overall your jacket looks good. True craftsmanship. But I have to agree on the issues you've mentioned. I don't think those crease lines would not have been there if you would have added 0.5 here or there. It's obviously a pattern thing and personally I don't see it as the result of a design choice but I see it as a flaw.
I think I see what you mean with the neck circumference. I'm not sure it's the circumference though that's causing the collar to bend outwards. I think removing some material right here would address both the neck crease and the outwards bending collar.
650E9E90-576F-42A9-8998-DC95F46CE1B5.jpeg

56212278-7D9C-460B-882C-523C39F08FEE.jpeg


But maybe we're nitpicking and you should just enjoy your beautiful jacket.

Look at my HD Sportster. Same neck crease. Still a great jacket.
1308CAD5-1245-4657-8F0D-61E997BEE19F.jpeg
 

MrProper

My Mail is Forwarded Here
Messages
3,841
Location
Europe
Alright, here she is. Route 66. Teacore. Copper lining (rust, gold, reddish brown, hard to capture the color, but it's definitely not "gold" and not so orange as shown in the pics). Brass hardware. No hand warmer pockets. Moved the wrist zips to the underside.

Overall the fit is pretty much there. The discussion about the neck lines continues though. We did go pretty tight on the shoulders, so don't know if a .25 or .5 would have made a difference alleviating some of the tension. Obviously in the below pics it's exaggerated because I'm lifting my arms holding the camera, but there is no doubt a crease line that runs from the neck down towards the arm pit area.

Probably could come in a .25 in a few spots on chest and torso to get a true second skin but I was looking for some breathing room on this one. Only been worn maybe 15 hours, so I'm guessing it'll settle some. But you can see the slight taper out from the waist which is what I was going for. And I forgot to take a pic with it unzipped, but the shape holds even unzipped. There's a lot of tension under the arms leading to say lower lat area. I think this is Greg's design and creates that pulling effect that keeps things looking sheik. It sort of feels and looks like the seam of the front and back connects more towards the back instead of the traditional dead center on the sides. It's not directly under the arm pit seam but more behind it. I think this pull tension creates a very sleek look and almost "hugging" effect. I like it, but for the OCD people, yeah, you're going to have those crease lines. I do think they'll soften some though and like I said, below pics are extreme since I'm holding my arm straight out and up.

The leather is beautifully grained, rigid, and much lighter than I expected. Was a good surprise because I can wear longer in the Los Angeles climate. But had I known, I may have quilted the lining or just gone for the more traditional red/black checker tweed. There's a few tiny dots of brown in some of the corners of the pockets and that's a glimpse of what's to come.

I'm totally happy and was a pleasure working with Greg. Might be a while before I order something else since I've lost my job recently, but no doubt I'd turn to him first if I had any sort of project in mind.

Few nit picky things I'd change if I had to do over again. I think the neck circumference is just a tad big for me. I probably would leave the wrist zippers on the front for a more showy pop. Main zipper for sure needs another 2 sizes bigger. Something I forgot to ask about. It'll do given the leather is lighter, but I do find myself having to slow down to make sure I don't break the thing (almost did the first time I was so excited to put it on). Since I took off the hand warmers, I should have added an inside pocket. Slightly thicker pull tabs.

4ga8OO2.jpg
yvWFH33.jpg
mkyEoiF.jpg
st8jpdr.jpg
kVaXSOz.jpg
havMQNB.jpg
ZPQGq76.jpg
lDFeCZ9.jpg

Nice fit, nice jacket. The creases wouldn't bother me so much. And the lining is really great. Top jacket.
 

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