Unusual Cafe Racer style Half belt

Buco · Aug 29, 2014

I remember stumbling across a very old thread on here, which i think was posted by baron kurtz, which was a very similar jacket to this one and it was the first time i'd ever seen a jacket of that style. When i came across this jacket recently i remember thinking back to that thread.

A really unusual style of jacket with the cafe racer style collar and half back belt. This one is in beautiful condition, with a lightning zipper so i guess its canadian made. The original lining was shot so we replaced it but kept the original horsehide tag.

I thought this jacket deserved its own thread, it really is one of my all time favourites

pipvh · Aug 29, 2014

I love mandarin collar jackets that aren't cafe racers. This is a beauty, all right!

mendelboaz · Aug 29, 2014

Wow, that patina is mindblowing. Love the design on this thing, would love to see how it fits.

Edward · Aug 29, 2014

The Baron has had a coupel of jackets in that general style, I think. I'm sure he mentioned one of them was German too, but I might well be wrong on that. It's an interesting design, certainly. Actually that particular jacket reminds me a lot of the Aero Speedway, with a different collar. It's not a style I've seen reproduced anywhere with a mandarin collar, though. I wonder what the original design purpose was - casual jacket? Bike jacket? I tend to the view that mandarin collars don't look 'right' with a tie (purely a personal, aesthetic opinion), but of course that doesnt mean this was designed with the idea of it being worn without neckwear in mind.

Inusuit · Aug 29, 2014

The patina is wonderful. A beautiful jacket.

herringbonekid · Oct 14, 2014

interesting pockets on that jacket; the way they're stitched under the front yoke and go right to the bottom edge.

GregO · Oct 15, 2014

My only comment:

Is it for sale? If yes, what are the measurements? That thing is beautiful.

Ben Langworthy · Feb 5, 2021

Sorry I know this is an old thread but I love this style! I also thought I'd pitch in my example:

Ben Langworthy · Feb 5, 2021

It's Canadian and made from Horsehide with a nickel plated Lighthing zip.

When I got the jacket it had been in the same family from new. It had belonged to the sellers grandfather who had bought it new in Canada at the begging of WW2 when they we being trained as a pilot.
Although civilian purchase I like to think that in those early training flights they might have worn the jacket!

jonbuilder · Feb 5, 2021

It's nice you know the jacket history and a very cool jacket

tmitchell59 · Feb 5, 2021

Ben Langworthy said:
It's Canadian and made from Horsehide with a nickel plated Lighthing zip.

When I got the jacket it had been in the same family from new. It had belonged to the sellers grandfather who had bought it new in Canada at the begging of WW2 when they we being trained as a pilot.
Although civilian purchase I like to think that in those early training flights they might have worn the jacket!

I did not know there was such a thread. Here is a Durable from Canada in blue horsehide. The HH maker quit tanning leather in 1955. I just received another Cafe Racer Half-belt in Deerskin.

That is a great history on that jacket. I see that label peeking out with the Pony Horse Head.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/EFywS8z2PeeKPVsG6

tmitchell59 · Feb 5, 2021

I just got this one, so just these pictures.

Mrfrown · Feb 5, 2021

JL makes a half belt cafe racer. Gotta say the new/unworn models came off as kinda "meh" to me. Seeing these well-worn beauts has me thinking it over though. Here's their model from instagram along with 2 pics they sent me via email:

https://www.instagram.com/p/CJG7AsdjhY8/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link

Ben Langworthy · Feb 5, 2021

Thanks for the replies! Yeah its a hell of a jacket especially with the history!
I have to admit if I had that history with a garment in my family I couldn't ever imagine parting with it.

I love the two tone on the its pockets as well, Incidentally it's made by Perfect Leather Garment Co in Toronto, Does anyone know anything about them?

Those are some incredible jackets tmitchell59 That Blue one especially, really great to have the tannery label on there to!

navetsea · Feb 6, 2021

Mrfrown said:
JL makes a half belt cafe racer. Gotta say the new/unworn models came off as kinda "meh" to me. Seeing these well-worn beauts has me thinking it over though. Here's their model from instagram along with 2 pics they sent me via email:

https://www.instagram.com/p/CJG7AsdjhY8/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link

View attachment 307596 View attachment 307597

chest pockets seems very high, and the band collar doesn't taper

yellowfever · Feb 6, 2021

tmitchell59 said:
I did not know there was such a thread. Here is a Durable from Canada in blue horsehide. The HH maker quit tanning leather in 1955. I just received another Cafe Racer Half-belt in Deerskin.

That is a great history on that jacket. I see that label peeking out with the Pony Horse Head.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/EFywS8z2PeeKPVsG6

View attachment 307499 View attachment 307501 View attachment 307502 View attachment 307503 View attachment 307504 View attachment 307505 View attachment 307506

I’m not normally a fan of pleated backs, especially on a cafe racer type jacket where the whole look is about a clean, functional and minimalist approach. Especially in such jackets I find too much back detailing a bit fussy and prefer the ‘less is more’ approach of a majestic one piece back, or maybe a nice yoke or kidney panel... BUT I’ve got to say this kind of thing could totally change my mind... what a beautiful jacket! Interesting and different. The back has shades of vintage German flight jackets with the clear and high waist and those pleats. And I love that shade of blue and the labels are the icing on the cake. Shame it’s such a small jacket size, but very interesting indeed...

jonbuilder · Feb 6, 2021

tmitchell59 said:
I did not know there was such a thread. Here is a Durable from Canada in blue horsehide. The HH maker quit tanning leather in 1955. I just received another Cafe Racer Half-belt in Deerskin.

That is a great history on that jacket. I see that label peeking out with the Pony Horse Head.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/EFywS8z2PeeKPVsG6

View attachment 307499 View attachment 307501 View attachment 307502 View attachment 307503 View attachment 307504 View attachment 307505 View attachment 307506

That is one cool jacket, I am envious. How is the fit Terry?

Mrfrown · Feb 6, 2021

navetsea said:
chest pockets seems very high, and the band collar doesn't taper

Agreed on the pocket placement, and would prefer them double welted rather than exposed zipper tape.

All those details are adjustable with JL of course.

What do you mean about collar taper?

lina · Feb 6, 2021

The Flat Head also made a CR style with halfbelt. Here modeled by Fabio:

navetsea · Feb 6, 2021

Mrfrown said:
Agreed on the pocket placement, and would prefer them double welted rather than exposed zipper tape.

All those details are adjustable with JL of course.

What do you mean about collar taper?

Tapered toward the neck, the collar band is cut as a curved strip of leather rather than a straight piece of leather strip. Same goes for jacket belt if you want it to fit right better curved it a little upward, my mom told me that once haha...

it is already curved a bit on that jacket just not enough for my eyes since I have thin neck

probably I always over exaggerate of that part , can also made more tapered look if the front neck is a bit more V shaped like some other examples above with mandarin collar.

Unusual Cafe Racer style Half belt

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